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Thread: Pulling motor with transmission

  1. #1
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    Pulling motor with transmission

    I am pulling my transmission to swap it with another unit. I also want to fix a leak on the front cover/oil pan while the transmission is out. I want to pull the motor and transmission while they are still connected as I am limited to how high I can raise the car to get the transmission out the bottom.

    My plan is to run 2 6400 lb capacity lift straps under the intake manifold and use these as my lift point. I'm wondering if the intake would be an okay lift point to remove the 2 pieceswhile they are still together?
    04 SB MM RIP 4/24/09
    Number 553 of 3213 04s, 208 of 993 Silvers 04s

    03 SB MM (the new girl)
    Born 5/15/2003, Adopted 7/17/09
    Number 7458 of 7838 03s, 225 of 417 Silver 03s

    Mods: K&N CAI, 180° stat, SW headers, custom 2.5" h-pipe exhaust from headers to tips w/Dynomax VT mufflers, Part of the Art Carr Stage 2 tranny kit, rebuilt with Alto Black bands and clutches, deep transmission pan, big ass trans cooler, PI 3.5k rpm Triple disk TC, Dynotech 4" driveshaft, Metco Drive shaft loop and rear CA's, Addco front and rear sway bars, just a bit of powder coating, stock size performance brake upgrades, QA1 shocks in the rear with KYBs in the front, and replaced every stock suspension bushing. Tuner's Inc tuned 298 rwhp/306 rwtq
    .


  2. #2
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    bump........

  3. #3
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    Get an engine tilting device, you'll need to change the angle several times during the process of removal. Attach to the top 2 bellhousing bolts and the two alternator mounting bolts in the block.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    Get an engine tilting device, you'll need to change the angle several times during the process of removal. Attach to the top 2 bellhousing bolts and the two alternator mounting bolts in the block.
    Thank you sir, exactly what I was looking for. I was more than a little worried about trying to lift the both pieces by the intake as it is only cast aluminum. I am sure it can support just the motor but not 100% sure about w/the tranny still attached. I already have the load leveler so I will just pick up some longer grade 8 bolts and some good chains. The ones that came with my hoist and leveler don't really instill great confidence in me.

    While the motor is out I plan on making some knock off lift brackets based off pictures I have seen of the Ford ones. Already picked up some 3/8" X 3" X 24" steel flat stock for it.

    Tonight the Kook's come off and then I will have to get a buddy to help with the hood tomorrow. I am expecting to have the motor and tranny out by Thursday night.
    Last edited by cougar9150; 12-08-2009 at 08:53 AM.
    04 SB MM RIP 4/24/09
    Number 553 of 3213 04s, 208 of 993 Silvers 04s

    03 SB MM (the new girl)
    Born 5/15/2003, Adopted 7/17/09
    Number 7458 of 7838 03s, 225 of 417 Silver 03s

    Mods: K&N CAI, 180° stat, SW headers, custom 2.5" h-pipe exhaust from headers to tips w/Dynomax VT mufflers, Part of the Art Carr Stage 2 tranny kit, rebuilt with Alto Black bands and clutches, deep transmission pan, big ass trans cooler, PI 3.5k rpm Triple disk TC, Dynotech 4" driveshaft, Metco Drive shaft loop and rear CA's, Addco front and rear sway bars, just a bit of powder coating, stock size performance brake upgrades, QA1 shocks in the rear with KYBs in the front, and replaced every stock suspension bushing. Tuner's Inc tuned 298 rwhp/306 rwtq
    .


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougar9150 View Post
    Thank you sir, exactly what I was looking for. I was more than a little worried about trying to lift the both pieces by the intake as it is only cast aluminum. I am sure it can support just the motor but not 100% sure about w/the tranny still attached. I already have the load leveler so I will just pick up some longer grade 8 bolts and some good chains. The ones that came with my hoist and leveler don't really instill great confidence in me.

    While the motor is out I plan on making some knock off lift brackets based off pictures I have seen of the Ford ones. Already picked up some 3/8" X 3" X 24" steel flat stock for it.

    Tonight the Kook's come off and then I will have to get a buddy to help with the hood tomorrow. I am expecting to have the motor and tranny out by Thursday night.
    Has anyone told him about the tranny cross member?
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  6. #6
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    Attach the leveller as close as possible to the intake manifold. You gotta have a lot of lift on the cherry picker, and if you get the engine part of the way out then have to drop it back down it's a real PITA. I guess if you get in that situation you could drop the car whild the engine is hanging there instead, but it's gonna take some helpers to do that. I generally do it solo.

    I don't pull my hood off to remove the engine. I just pop loose the gasprings and get a prop rod (PVC plumbing pipe is easy to cut to length) to hold the hood nearly straight up.

    Pull the cowl and wiper motor.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Has anyone told him about the tranny cross member?
    I have the factory manual, so I know about the cross member.

    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    Attach the leveller as close as possible to the intake manifold. You gotta have a lot of lift on the cherry picker, and if you get the engine part of the way out then have to drop it back down it's a real PITA. I guess if you get in that situation you could drop the car whild the engine is hanging there instead, but it's gonna take some helpers to do that. I generally do it solo.

    I don't pull my hood off to remove the engine. I just pop loose the gasprings and get a prop rod (PVC plumbing pipe is easy to cut to length) to hold the hood nearly straight up.

    Pull the cowl and wiper motor.
    Maybe this won't work for me then, I'm not sure if I have enough clearance to get the hood all the way up straight. I only have 8 foot ceilings in the garage so I may just have to lift the car higher and pull the tranny from the bottom.

    Hate to do it this way but I think unless I disassemble the whole front end of the car I will probably have to pull them separately due to height limitations in my garage. I'll take a better look when I get home but I starting to think I will have to do it the PITA way.
    04 SB MM RIP 4/24/09
    Number 553 of 3213 04s, 208 of 993 Silvers 04s

    03 SB MM (the new girl)
    Born 5/15/2003, Adopted 7/17/09
    Number 7458 of 7838 03s, 225 of 417 Silver 03s

    Mods: K&N CAI, 180° stat, SW headers, custom 2.5" h-pipe exhaust from headers to tips w/Dynomax VT mufflers, Part of the Art Carr Stage 2 tranny kit, rebuilt with Alto Black bands and clutches, deep transmission pan, big ass trans cooler, PI 3.5k rpm Triple disk TC, Dynotech 4" driveshaft, Metco Drive shaft loop and rear CA's, Addco front and rear sway bars, just a bit of powder coating, stock size performance brake upgrades, QA1 shocks in the rear with KYBs in the front, and replaced every stock suspension bushing. Tuner's Inc tuned 298 rwhp/306 rwtq
    .


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougar9150 View Post
    I have the factory manual, so I know about the cross member.
    The manual tells you it's there and that you have to remove it, but it doesn't begin to describe how hard it is to pry it loose after the bolts are out. I use a crowbar.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    The manual tells you it's there and that you have to remove it, but it doesn't begin to describe how hard it is to pry it loose after the bolts are out. I use a crowbar.
    Don't forget the BFH!
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    The manual tells you it's there and that you have to remove it, but it doesn't begin to describe how hard it is to pry it loose after the bolts are out. I use a crowbar.
    Never had one that was easy to get out on any car before. My Cougar and every Stang I have ever worked on took both of these specialty tools. BFH and a crowbar are your friends on these type of jobs.
    04 SB MM RIP 4/24/09
    Number 553 of 3213 04s, 208 of 993 Silvers 04s

    03 SB MM (the new girl)
    Born 5/15/2003, Adopted 7/17/09
    Number 7458 of 7838 03s, 225 of 417 Silver 03s

    Mods: K&N CAI, 180° stat, SW headers, custom 2.5" h-pipe exhaust from headers to tips w/Dynomax VT mufflers, Part of the Art Carr Stage 2 tranny kit, rebuilt with Alto Black bands and clutches, deep transmission pan, big ass trans cooler, PI 3.5k rpm Triple disk TC, Dynotech 4" driveshaft, Metco Drive shaft loop and rear CA's, Addco front and rear sway bars, just a bit of powder coating, stock size performance brake upgrades, QA1 shocks in the rear with KYBs in the front, and replaced every stock suspension bushing. Tuner's Inc tuned 298 rwhp/306 rwtq
    .


  11. #11
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    Why not remove the engine first, then the transmission?

  12. #12
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    Personally, if I was going to separate them I'd do the tranny first. You can pull the tranny with headers still installed, then with the tranny gone at least a few of the header bolts will be easier to get to.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    Personally, if I was going to separate them I'd do the tranny first. You can pull the tranny with headers still installed, then with the tranny gone at least a few of the header bolts will be easier to get to.
    you cant pullt he motor with the headers?
    2010 fusion se


  14. #14
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    Yes, BUT...

    One of the 2 times I did it I cracked the heater housing. Between that and the wrestling match to get it installed, I decided to just pull the headers every time since then.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    Yes, BUT...

    One of the 2 times I did it I cracked the heater housing. Between that and the wrestling match to get it installed, I decided to just pull the headers every time since then.
    damn it, those things were a ***** to get on, i really didnt want you to tell me that
    2010 fusion se


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