Marauder down but definitely not out!

[TooManyFords]

As it was eluded to yesterday in a couple different threads, it is true that I have a marauder on a trailer in my driveway as I type this. I wanted to post this thread after I have all the pictures, videos and dyno graphs scanned but everyone is probably wondering just what happened!

First, Sutton did an excellent job with the dyno tune on the car. No question about it. The air/fuel was a flat 11.0 across the entire pull when completed and resulted in 471 RWHP. After the base tune was completed, we played with the electric cutouts and the nitrous to see what would happen. When the cutouts were opened up, I gained 6 hp on the top end only and lost about as much torque through 3/4s of the bottom end. But this just one example of what happens on the dyno does not necessarily represent what happens on the track. When tested with a G-Timer, the cutouts were good for a full half second reduction in ET. I have done this test at the track with the blower and got similar results. When we played with a 35 shot of nos on top of the tune, we found it ran pig rich [and why are pigs responsible all the time?] We didn't have time to customize the tune but it was clear that either more NOS or a smaller fuel jet would have corrected this without adjusting the computer. So for now, the NOS is for the bling factor until the new motor is completed.

While the car -was- running after the dyno, it was a pure dream! I can't remember the last time it was so fun accelerating up to 100+ on the toll road to catch up to Mac! Smooth as silk. We sprinted up to Great Lakes Dragaway to meet the rest of the crew and it was a great 2 hour cruise.

The bad news. It was on my first pass too. With stock tires, a new 3500 stall PI and a fresh tune on the car, I knew it was not stay glued till I got firmly ino third. With the OD off and ready, I launch. And I was right. It felt loose for quite a ways and then it planted in third and just started pulling hard! Then, all of a sudden it felt like I hit neutral and I look down and the tach was pegged! I started to let out and then BANG! Oil everywhere and parts were bouncing down the track behind me. Not much else to say, but I'm pretty sure that we'll need an autopsy on both to see what failed and how.

I'll post links to the pictures and videos later this weekend.

Now to rebuild!

John

[Bradley G]

John, sorry our little get together went south for you.

I really enjoyed seeing you at our local track.
Now you got me rethinking the idea of turning up the wick on my car.

[FordNut]

Wow, bad news. Sorry to hear about that. Sounds like the tranny let go first (maybe input shaft?) then the redline was set high enough to let the engine self destruct. Maybe I should re-think having my tuner raise the redline above the 6200 he has it set at. Good luck on getting it back together soon, better and stronger than it was before!

[snowbird]

Damn. I saw you post another tread with a phrase that spelled bad news but i wasn't shure. I guess now its clearer.

Really sorry for what happened. Wish you the best for the coming weeks, you'll need it. I hope you sort out exacly what happened and why.

Regards, Yvon

[Rider90]

Time to build it better now!

[AzMarauder]

I'm pretty sure that we'll need an autopsy on both to see what failed and how.

I'll post links to the pictures and videos later this weekend.

Now to rebuild!

John

Man... that is not good... unless of course you were ready to do the rebuild anyway!

I would be very interested in what you see when you tear it down.

Good luck amigo!

[TooManyFords]

I was planning on getting a motor over the winter and do a rebuild for a next Spring swap. I'm just moving the schedule up a bit is all.

I'm going with forged internals and keeping everything identical as possible. The upper motor and all the accessories are just fine, I just need a block, crank, rods, pistons and maybe a head or two. Oh, and a rebuilt tranny.

Now, what I've been toying with is building a 514 with an AOD behind it since it will fit. I'm trying to find out just how much of the onboard electronics will not work if the motor is carburetted and not hooked to it. It would be cool but I'm thinking I'd have to redo all the gauges in the dash for "old school" power.

Don't know just yet so I am still looking for options.

Cheers!

John

[Zack]

Yeah, it royally sucked having to witness Johns misfortune.
Those who have stock motors and have high horsepower #'s, are very very lucky. Although my motor came out of the car running as good as new, I know someone was watching over me when it was stock.
John, anyting you need, just ask. And good luck.

[martyo]

Now, what I've been toying with is building a 514 with an AOD behind it since it will fit. I'm trying to find out just how much of the onboard electronics will not work if the motor is carburetted and not hooked to it. It would be cool but I'm thinking I'd have to redo all the gauges in the dash for "old school" power.

The gauges are less of an issue than some of the other electronics. Come to SSHS5 anyway and see for yourself.

I am pulling for ya to be back on the road soon!

[AzMarauder]

I was planning on getting a motor over the winter and do a rebuild for a next Spring swap. I'm just moving the schedule up a bit is all.

I'm going with forged internals and keeping everything identical as possible. The upper motor and all the accessories are just fine, I just need a block, crank, rods, pistons and maybe a head or two. Oh, and a rebuilt tranny.

Now, what I've been toying with is building a 514 with an AOD behind it since it will fit. I'm trying to find out just how much of the onboard electronics will not work if the motor is carburetted and not hooked to it. It would be cool but I'm thinking I'd have to redo all the gauges in the dash for "old school" power.

Don't know just yet so I am still looking for options.

Cheers!

John

Just my opinion mind you... but I like the creature comforts of the car and modern technology. You should be able to scare up a motor and the parts... I'd redo the 281 with all the trough stuff inside... some hotter cams.... and then boost the little baby HARD !

The beauty of the cars isn't necessarily how fast they can run... it's how fast they run with all the bells and whistles.

Like I used to say about my Cobra when I ran 12.5 @114 at 3100' elevation when and folks asked what I had in it...

"Nothing much.... just my fat azz and 6 cds in the changer... oh, and I didn't have the A/C on! "

[Tallboy]

John, I am sorry to hear of the misfortune, but that's racin', huh? I realize I am not close geographically, but If there's any way I can help, drop me a line...

[TooManyFords]

I see karKraft has some 4.6 MM motors on their website in the 2K range. What do I need to make this indestructable? If you've gone down this road already, let me know what you did [parts used etc], who did it for you and about how much $$ ?

I'd hate to reinvent the wheel and all. I'm looking for just the long block build-up with the same compression if possible. I'm happy with the dyno tune and really don't need more than the 471 it dyno'd at.

If there is a build-up thread, post me a link to save typing.

I'll save the 514 project for next year with a 'seasoned' marauder...

Thanks in advance!

john

[Smokie]

John, what can I say, Make it better and come back stronger than ever.

[FordNut]

I see karKraft has some 4.6 MM motors on their website in the 2K range. What do I need to make this indestructable?

Indestructable? Not possible. Strong enough to last through more abuse than most of us will ever throw at it, quite realistic.

If you've gone down this road already, let me know what you did [parts used etc], who did it for you and about how much $$ ?

Mac did a pretty detailed writeup on his buildup. Not sure where it's at but I'm sure somebody will post a link.

I'd hate to reinvent the wheel and all. I'm looking for just the long block build-up with the same compression if possible. I'm happy with the dyno tune and really don't need more than the 471 it dyno'd at.

My recommendation: If your block is history, get one of the KarKraft aluminum engines. Look into VT Engines for a rotating assembly: Including forged pistons (several choices of brand and c.r.), forged crank, Manley rods, everything already balanced, including rings and bearings at around 2500.00.

Also go ahead and get the billet oil pump gears.

I would drop ever so slightly on the c.r. to maybe 9.8:1 or even 9.5:1

[Eric91Z]

Sorry to hear about the misfortune, but like you said last weekend, if you break it, you will build it better and go from there. I agree, keep the 4.6, build the internals like Mac or Mark and boost that Procharger up. Maybe upgrade the supercharger unit itself and make some power like Marty...