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Thread: Rear gears - 4.10's vs 3.73's

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    SCT Tunes vs 'buying a pre-loaded unit'

    So, I currently am running an SCT unit, where DaSilva Racing here just outside Toronto, did a dyno tune for me, re-doing my stock setup and then with 94-octane Sunoco (now Petro-Can here in the Great White North since they bought Suncor for the Canadian Market) back in 09-10.
    I hear of some guys just 'buying a tune' as opposed to getting one done by a shop. Any comments on the differences there?

  2. #17
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    A canned tune is a compromise. A dyno tune is customized for your exact conditions and needs. Although they can be close, especially if you get one from one of the vendors here, but a dyno tune will always be better, even if only by a small amount.
    The Blackbird
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vortech347 View Post
    I put 3.73's in my last MM. It was an improvement. But 4.10's that I put in my current were MUCH better.
    The voice of experience.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RF Overlord View Post
    A canned tune is a compromise. A dyno tune is customized for your exact conditions and needs. Although they can be close, especially if you get one from one of the vendors here, but a dyno tune will always be better, even if only by a small amount.
    Well, depending on who is doing the dyno tuning. LOL!

  5. #20
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    410

    Back to the original question....410's and you'll feel the difference..Not really much more gas.Combined with the right tune and you got a new car....

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-MAN View Post
    4.10, 4.11 whatever it takes.
    That's like saying Ford, Chevy whatever it takes
    03 Marauder 300a
    392 hp / 406 tq

  7. #22
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    I say 4.10s and MO's tune. I was debating as well, and glad I went with 4.10s and Mo. Car runs much better from a stop and RPMS aren't bad at all on highway. I got 24mpg driving 75mph on about an hour long drive last week with 105K on my MM with this combo.
    Black 2003 300A Marauder Build Date 06-02 100K Miles
    Bought used 05/07/11

    HID Morimoto Mini Projector Headlights (built myself), HID Morimoto Matchbox Projector Foglights, Pioneer Z140BH Headunit w/Pioneer 3 way speakers, XM Radio, backup cam, GMRS radio installed, LED backlit gauge cluster, tint, McGard & Gorilla locking lugs (all of them), Cooper RS3A tires, dead pedal, 4.10s, MO's Tune, 3" Fuel Filter.

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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    That's like saying Ford, Chevy whatever it takes
    Tis not!

    At first I thought your age was 12, now I see it's your post count.
    Excess in Moderation.

    Sprinkles are for winners.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-MAN View Post
    Tis not!

    At first I thought your age was 12, now I see it's your post count.
    You makin' fun of my age???
    I LOVE Jerry's bar, it's my kinda place...........






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  10. #25
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    What?

    Quote Originally Posted by RF Overlord View Post
    A canned tune is a compromise. A dyno tune is customized for your exact conditions and needs. Although they can be close, especially if you get one from one of the vendors here, but a dyno tune will always be better, even if only by a small amount.
    ANY tune is a compromise! Is a dyno tune "better" if some idiot dyno tuner screws up and you puke an engine? Lidios tune is proven safe. Timing, shift points, fuel map, real road driveability, weather adjustments, and who knows what else all contribute to a real world tune.

    Putting a car on a dyno, and loading the engine and transmission for various conditions, such as uphill, downhill, idle, idle to wide open throttle, cruising, tip -in, 1000 to 4000 rpm part throttle acceleration, is the true test of a tune. Ford has $million dynos for doing that, not some "cheap" $20,000 dyno.

    I'm not saying Joe Blow can't do a good job, but it takes skills.

    ==========================
    1957 Custom 2 dr Sedan, 1979 F-series 14' U-Haul 330 XD, 1979 F150 4X4 428 PI/CJ heads/NP 435/4:11 axles-rear Det. Lkr., 1993 Grand Marquis, Y2K CVPI supercharged 5.4, 2003 MM

    The more I learn, the more I find out I don't know.

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  11. #26
    4.10 no question
    03 300A Build Date 08/02
    Trilogy #151

  12. #27
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    3.27 FTMFW!!


    Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

    DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom





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  13. #28
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    Aww Shucks!

    BillyGman ran 4.56s....and a Trilogy
    .....
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by stryker View Post
    My Panther comes stock with 3.55 gears it runs with regular gasoline, if upgrade to 4.10 do I have to change fuel from regular to premium ? Other doubt is if I need to do the so called "tune" And how.
    WTH?! How come my MM claims premium only and yours doesn't!?

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreekGod View Post
    ANY tune is a compromise! Is a dyno tune "better" if some idiot dyno tuner screws up and you puke an engine? Lidios tune is proven safe. Timing, shift points, fuel map, real road driveability, weather adjustments, and who knows what else all contribute to a real world tune.

    Putting a car on a dyno, and loading the engine and transmission for various conditions, such as uphill, downhill, idle, idle to wide open throttle, cruising, tip -in, 1000 to 4000 rpm part throttle acceleration, is the true test of a tune. Ford has $million dynos for doing that, not some "cheap" $20,000 dyno.

    I'm not saying Joe Blow can't do a good job, but it takes skills.

    ==========================
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