Wideband Installation Question

[cat in the hat]

I just picked up a wideband gauge (Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Pro-Comp).

I've read some old threads where guys have put the bung for the sensor in the downpipe between the cats on the driver's side (stock exhaust system), because there's not enough room to put it in front of the first cat.

I'd also like to take out the second set of cats.

Can I get the bung welded into the straight pipe that will replace the cats ? This seems like it would be an easier way to do it, because it could be done before the pipe goes on the car.

Opinions ?

[justbob]

Yes. Just make sure to clock it pitching slightly upward.


Builder Of Badassery

[chief455]

Yes. Just make sure to clock it pitching slightly upward.


Builder Of Badassery

black wires, driver side is wideband as described.
I have the same Auto Meter gauge, and it took some driving for the reading to stabilize. I like it, and the green lights match

[martyo]

Yes. Just make sure to clock it pitching slightly upward.


Builder Of Badassery

Your planned set up will be fine. Bobjustbob makes a good point about the clocking of the sensor.

We usually put them in the the rear O2 hole and turn the rears off. This saves welding a new bung in too. This reading will only very .1 between the cat and in front of the cat.

The only other point of interest I would make here is that the further forward (closer to the manifold) the sensor is, the quicker it will warm up and reach operating temperature, but this is not a big deal.

[cat in the hat]

Yes. Just make sure to clock it pitching slightly upward.

Understood, thank you. The recommendation seems to be between 10 - 2 o'clock.

black wires, driver side is wideband as described.
I have the same Auto Meter gauge, and it took some driving for the reading to stabilize. I like it, and the green lights match

Yes, I got a two-gauge pillar pod with it, it should look good with the boost gauge

[cat in the hat]

Your planned set up will be fine. Bobjustbob makes a good point about the clocking of the sensor.

We usually put them in the the rear O2 hole and turn the rears off. This saves welding a new bung in too. This reading will only very .1 between the cat and in front of the cat.

The only other point of interest I would make here is that the further forward (closer to the manifold) the sensor is, the quicker it will warm up and reach operating temperature, but this is not a big deal.

Thank you, excellent idea. If I go this route, can I ignore the CEL and drive the car a minimal amount before turning off the rear sensors in the tune ?

[chief455]

teaser....

[chief455]

Thank you, excellent idea. If I go this route, can I ignore the CEL and drive the car a minimal amount before turning off the rear sensors in the tune ?

see my pic above. That is as delivered from Marty, in the driver side rear O2 sensor bung.

I'd say let the CEL light come on, then turn the monitors off. Be certain you won't need these all on for any emmissions testing later though.
If so, weld a bung a few inches before the rear O2 bung for the wideband, and leave all 4 O2 sensors in tact.

[cat in the hat]

That looks GREAT ! Is that the LOTEK pillar pod ? I was thinking hard about that, but wasn't sure I'd use the third hole.
Now I'm having second thoughts . . . .

teaser....

[chief455]

That looks GREAT ! Is that the LOTEK pillar pod ? I was thinking hard about that, but wasn't sure I'd use the third hole.
Now I'm having second thoughts . . . .

yes, and worth every penny. And a little waiting = made to order.

If I had to rethink the gauges, I'd put a/f top, boost middle, and an Aeroforce Interceptor in the bottom hole. can watch fuel pressure, IAT, anything x2 with one of them.

I have a pair of Interceptor gauges waiting to mount in pods on the steering column this weekend.

[cat in the hat]

see my pic above. That is as delivered from Marty, in the driver side rear O2 sensor bung.

I'd say let the CEL light come on, then turn the monitors off. Be certain you won't need these all on for any emmissions testing later though.
If so, weld a bung a few inches before the rear O2 bung for the wideband, and leave all 4 O2 sensors in tact.

Good point. I'll ask my inspection guy if I need to leave the rear sensors.

[martyo]

Thank you, excellent idea. If I go this route, can I ignore the CEL and drive the car a minimal amount before turning off the rear sensors in the tune ?

You can drive it all you want without worrying about the check engine light subject to emissions, of course.

[lji372]

That looks GREAT ! Is that the LOTEK pillar pod ? I was thinking hard about that, but wasn't sure I'd use the third hole.
Now I'm having second thoughts . . . .

If there's an open hole a car guy will fill it. Just sayin

[cat in the hat]

If there's an open hole a car guy will fill it. Just sayin

Yeah, that kind of "mission creep" is exactly what I'm afraid of

I'll start scheming on a third gauge because I like the Lotek pillar,
And then it will be "I may as well replace the front cats with high-flow units while I'm at it,"
And then something else,
And something else . . . . .

If I don't make myself cut these things off somewhere, I start out to change the oil and wind up replacing the damn hood ornament

[chief455]

Yeah, that kind of "mission creep" is exactly what I'm afraid of

I'll start scheming on a third gauge because I like the Lotek pillar,
And then it will be "I may as well replace the front cats with high-flow units while I'm at it,"
And then something else,
And something else . . . . .

If I don't make myself cut these things off somewhere, I start out to change the oil and wind up replacing the damn hood ornament

suggested bottom gauge:
http://aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html

they sell white face/green lighting

see Jerry's with black face: