Pulling my engine

[kirk]

While I do think it was time for a new drive shaft, I think all of the combined evidence I have in front of me now points more in the direction of bell housing alignment being the root cause of my vibration. Assembled runout stands at 0.004". Can't wait to get this thing back together and drive it and see if I've actually fixed things.

[kirk]

Changed my pinion seal this week because it showed signs of leaking, and it was part of the whole out of wack rotating mess. Got that done, but now I've run out of things I can do to the car until I get my tail shaft. Engine's still on the floor and the trans is still in pieces on the table. Hurts me to look at it. I need that shaft.

[kirk]

Got a surprise on a UPS truck today. Working on doing something useful with it.

[kirk]

Success!

It's all down hill from here.

[kirk]

Back where it belongs.

[kirk]

I'm one of those who likes to save the easy stuff for last, so I've started under the car at the rear getting every thing hooked back up, and I'm working my way forward and to the top. Drive train is bolted in, drive shaft is in, and I'm working on the trans (oil, shifter, etc.).

[kirk]

Everything's bolted in on the bottom side.




Still work to do on the top.

[J-MAN]

Sure looks sweet!

[kirk]

Sure looks sweet!

Thanks! The closer I get, the more excited I am. Might even be able to start it tomorrow.

[kirk]

Well, I did not get it running Sunday. Still running into issues, though they're pretty minor compared to the trans.

My engine wiring is so hard and brittle that the insulation is breaking. I'm going to have to run some new wire.




My new upper radiator hose is the wrong size.




So I'm working through those two issues.

[kirk]

Let's talk batteries. I made mention in an earlier post that I put a clamp on the bottom of my battery to get rid of the bungee cord. So you might ask, why on earth do I have to cobble this up in the first place?

My goal is to make this car just as factory correct as I can, while still being able to drive it.

The challenge with the battery is this. It takes a group 27F battery. The original design uses tabs on the bottom of the battery to clamp it into place. An original Autolite battery is still available, and I have run a couple of them in the past. The current price is $360 and the two I've run only lasted 3-4 years.



The DieHard I've been using is over 7 years old and still works fine, but I want something more correct. And any modern 27F does not come with the clamp tabs at the bottom. This includes the Motorcraft battery I just bought for $120.

I do consider modern Motorcraft parts correct for the car. This includes the FL-1A oil filter and the new battery. They are Ford supplied replacement parts and the Motorcraft battery in my '03 Marauder is now almost 13 years old and still going strong. But this new battery doesn't have the tabs and I don't want to modify the hold-down.



That's why I came up with the clamp at the bottom of the battery that will insert into the existing factory clamping arrangement. It looks a little odd, isn't that noticeable, but does hold the battery in place well, and is easily reversible.

[Lowndex]

I just purchased the Ford Racing block (M-6009-A46X).
https://www.fordracingparts.com/part...KeyField=22907


BRG Racing will provide the porting, values, lifters, etc... (top end). The new engine is projected to yield 425 + rbhp and pass CA emissions. Else, I could go huge (500 + rbhp).

Good luck to you, sir.

[kirk]

This original T-handle shifter
http://calponycars.com/734-1748-larg...ter-lever-.jpg

and the frequency at which the upper boot goes bad (the lower boot is the same used by bench seat cars)


is the reason I run the Hurst shifter


It takes a torch to take that T-handle apart and put it back together, and you have to do that to change the boots. Doesn't take very many times doing that to come up with another option. Don't get me wrong, I do like the increased performance, but the ultimate goal is original.


I do have the original shifter rebuilt and all bagged up with new boots on it (upper and lower) ready to go. That goes in when I don't drive it any more.

[kirk]

I started it last night!

Couple of minor leaks to address, and I need to check the timing after replacing the points, but it runs and I'm basically ready to test it on a drive.

But now, as Tom Petty says, "waiting is the hardest part". We are getting 10-14 inches of snow today. It's snowing and blowing as I write. Won't be test driving it any time soon.




To summarize this winter's activity:
To try and eliminate my vibration problem I paid special attention to my bellhousing alignment, replaced my drive shaft, and paid special attention to my drive train alignment in the car.

To repair the damage from that vibration, 32,000 miles of driving, and 18 years of time I:
Painted engine bay except for left side
New engine mounts
Checked all 8 rod bearings, replaced 3 & 7
Checked #5 main bearing
New rear main seal
Surfaced flywheel
Adjusted valves
New fan belt
New radiator hoses
New points, plugs, condenser, rotor
New wire straps where they were missing
Replaced missing flex shield on alternator shield
New transmission bearings, gaskets, and sycors
New transmission main drive gear (input shaft) (correct NOS part)
Replaced transmission output shaft (used)
New clutch and disc (correct NOS parts)
New upper shift boot
New clutch fork boot
Replaced rear end pinion seal
Replaced rear spring isolators
Lubed suspension & steering
Repair/replace some engine wiring

To make the car more factory correct I:
Removed the windage tray
Deleted the exhaust manifold gaskets
Put in several NOS parts

I'll make a final update after I can actually drive the thing.

[Jeronimojc]

Congrats! Looks like you've done lots if work to it.


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