Recommended brake kits

[Lowndex]

I have been using TCE 13"kits for the front and rear. The rotors warp far too easily for modest driving. So, I need the Marauder experts to recommend me their top brake kits for front and rear, please. Please specify the kit manufacturer, rotor size, pads used and p/n's and url links would be helpful.

I am willing to spend $5000 for high quality brake kits with parts that will hold up to street use (includes some hard braking). Recall, I am having BRG Racing install a 5.0L Annihilator motor, Vortech supercharger, customized Cobra exhaust manifold and stainless long pipes with high-flow cats. I will need brakes that can handle the added hp (302 - 450+). Specifically, I desire rotors that will not warp so easily (like TCE's do). Something like Brembo GT-R (not made for the Marauder).

Lastly, please spare the driving tips of proper braking. I am seeking brake kit advice only, please.

[RubberCtyRauder]

There are no big brake kits out there for these cars, other than TCE, and the MM.net version made by zack and jerry. baer used to, but no longer in production. So you'll have to design and build your own.

[stevengerard]

Reinhardt may have a NIB of KVRs laying around but KVR doesn't even carry them anymore. Unfortunately these cars are getting older and with low production numbers to begin with few companies will be jumping into the aftermarket parts production process.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I wouldn't do anything that DR had his hands on.

[stevengerard]

I'd go with what Zack has created but out of the box a set of KVRs sitting at DRs maybe his only choice

[Lowndex]

As I have the TCE kits installed front and rear, what about better rotors?

[RubberCtyRauder]

As far as i am aware of there are no 13" or larger rotors that bolt right up. if you want to go back to standard size rotors (not sure if wildwwod stuff works with standard size) there are many from Napa, to Command rotors,t o R1 concepts, power slot, ebc, KVR makes standard rotors too and are $100-200 per rotor, raybestos, pretty much all the names, Motor craft..

[RubberCtyRauder]

You can call jegs and see if this still exists, but i doubt it as most stuff like this gets dropped shipped directly from manufacturer and baer doesn't list it anymore.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...1&YEAR=1690094

[Zack]

You never responded to my PM OP.
Im almost positive a stock Mach 1/Cobra rotor will work. (you will have to open up the hub bore .003)

[justbob]

$5,000?? That's laughable. My $199 R1 concepts rotors are still in use after 50,000 boosted miles and stops on a dime! Sell your kit as you'll never be happy and think more simplistic.


Builder Of Badassery

[lifespeed]

$5,000?? That's laughable. My $199 R1 concepts rotors are still in use after 50,000 boosted miles and stops on a dime! Sell your kit as you'll never be happy and think more simplistic.


Builder Of Badassery

Good brakes with fixed calipers are pretty expensive, although fortunately less than $5K. And there is some question as to whether the compromised-for-wheel-clearance Wilwood kits are good over the long term.

It is good you've found an OEM-style setup that works. The down side is you can swap pads when it is time for a brake job and start getting pad transfer because the pad compound isn't exactly what it needs to be to survive. If a brake setup only works with one pad brand and rotor brand, it is not really a good setup.

IMHO, the original Marauder brakes are just OK, not good.

[lifespeed]

I have been using TCE 13"kits for the front and rear. The rotors warp far too easily for modest driving. So, I need the Marauder experts to recommend me their top brake kits for front and rear, please. Please specify the kit manufacturer, rotor size, pads used and p/n's and url links would be helpful.

I had the same problem as you with my Wilwood 14"/13" kit. For the record it is not warped rotors, but rather transfer of overheated pad material to the rotor. It feels the same at the pedal and steering wheel (high spots on the rotor), but if you are looking for a fix it is important to understand what is going on.

I went through several sets of brake pads and rotors, finally arriving at the conclusion there is just not enough pad area and rotor thickness in the front to absorb the energy from our fast, heavy cars. Todd at TCE agreed to design a kit that uses 14" X 1.25" thick rotors (instead of 14" X 1.10") and the larger Aero6 calipers with 35% more pad area. It arrived a couple weeks ago and is sitting in my garage awaiting installation. I have some other things going on that won't let me install it for about 6 weeks, so I can't report back on the results, unfortunately. However, a thicker rotor and larger pads have got to be a step in the right direction.

You will need more than a 0.090" spacer to clear the caliper, however. This can be accommodated with a thicker spacer, and, if you want to keep the scrub radius the same, widening the OEM wheel 2X the spacer thickness. Or, I have a line on some 20" wheels that look like Marauder wheels from American Racing. You'll have to do something to get the wheels to clear, but to me at least, it will be worth it. I am so sick of brake jobs.

So give Todd a call, he can set you up. Or wait 6 weeks and I'll report back with initial results. But the long term results are what you really want . . .

[lji372]

You never responded to my PM OP.
Im almost positive a stock Mach 1/Cobra rotor will work. (you will have to open up the hub bore .030)

Fixed

$5,000?? That's laughable. My $199 R1 concepts rotors are still in use after 50,000 boosted miles and stops on a dime! Sell your kit as you'll never be happy and think more simplistic.


Builder Of Badassery

^^^^^word

[Zack]

I may have to make a bracket (Jerry) for the cts-v calipers.
You will need 19" wheels though

[Todd TCE]

For the record I'm doing a 15" front kit right now for a customer.

But I'll go on record as saying that the rotor size and pad size alone...won't fix driving habits. Yes it will extend the thermal operating range of the parts. But heat is heat and pad transfer is the same when hot on a 15" rotor as it is on a 13" rotor.

I've experienced this on one of our truck kits as well with a customer. He's replaced is 16 x 1.375 rotors now twice in the past couple of years. Far less than he did the oe parts. Raves about the stopping it has! And in time he's learning that he plots his own destiny on service life too. He pushes them harder now but knows he can still tear them up if he's not thinking about how they are used. (abused?)