Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Battery Light stays on!!!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837

    Battery Light stays on!!!!!

    Please have patience w/me if this has come up on the board before, but I'm just really frustrated right now about this, and I need advice from you guys. The battery light went on last week, and the voltage gauge was reading low, indicating that the alternator wasn't charging, so I took it out and had an automotive electrical place test it, and they told me that the voltage regulator was cooked, and so they took apart the alternator and replaced the regulator. They also claimed to put the alternator through extensive tests even including RPM tests to make sure that everything w/it was fine.

    Now that I've installed the alternator, the car immediatly starts right up no problem, and the voltmeter reads 14.5 volts within ten seconds of starting it. After driving the car up on the highway for 20 miles, the battery light will NOT go off.

    Now here's the part about this story that's driving me nuts......... the battery light will NOT go off even while cruising at 90 MPH, but it will go off during wide open throttle regardless of engine RPM and will NOT go back on until about 5 seconds after letting off the the wide open throttle blast.

    Is this just another case of the car's computer throwing a code that will keep the battery light on even though the problem that caused it is fixed, and will NOT change until the dealer plugs their equippment into the diagnostic port and cancell out the code???? And if this is the case, will a handheld tuner being borrowed from someone else enable me to cancell out the code if infact that's what it is that's causing my battery light to remain on even though the alternator if fixed, and the voltmeter clearly indicates that the alternator is charging just fine????

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    8,598
    Blog Entries
    2
    Doesn't the alternator kick off @wot? I assume it is charging at part throttle.

    Could something be wired incorrectly?

    I suggest a call to the electrical shop.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    Yeah, I'm gonna call the shop tomorrow like you've said, but I'm not so sure they will have an answer for me IF infact this all has to do w/the need to have a trown code removed in the computer, cuz that's usually dealer stuff.

    The stock pulley is no longer on the alternator, so it has nothing to do w/anything cutting out at WOT like you've implied. Besides, if that were the case, it would be doing the exact opposite if anyhting. The battery light would be on at WOT, not off. When it's off, that indicates that everything is fine. But thanks for your input. At this point, I can use all the advice I can get. This has me baffled.

  4. #4
    LNYTUNS Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BillyGman
    Is this just another case of the car's computer throwing a code that will keep the battery light on even though the problem that caused it is fixed, and will NOT change until the dealer plugs their equippment into the diagnostic port and cancell out the code???? And if this is the case, will a handheld tuner being borrowed from someone else enable me to cancell out the code if infact that's what it is that's causing my battery light to remain on even though the alternator if fixed, and the voltmeter clearly indicates that the alternator is charging just fine????
    SCT tuners can read/clear codes, even if they are VIN locked to another car.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    8,598
    Blog Entries
    2
    I was thinking maybe they wired it backwards seeing how it is now mounted backwards and it was only on @WOT?
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    Don't think so. The bottom line here is that he alternator is charging the battery all the time since the voltmeter is reading a perfect 14.4 volts all the time, WOT or not. But it's the battery light that's still staying on. So I don't see how it can have anything to do w/the alternator. If it did, then it wouldn't be reading 14+ volts.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    8,598
    Blog Entries
    2
    Couldn't be a loose battery ground? Sorry, Thats the last idea I have.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    I don't think so, but I'll check the other end of the ground wire if I can locate it. The end on the battery post sure is tight. I thought for sure that a bunch of people would be able to jump in here to tell me exactly what the problem is.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    Quote Originally Posted by LNYTUNS
    SCT tuners can read/clear codes, even if they are VIN locked to another car.
    Yes, that's what I was thinking too. I wasn't positive about that though. Thanks.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    New York, USA
    Age
    61
    Posts
    3,432
    You said that your alternator was mounted 'backwards' and I'm assuming that you have the Trilogy SC installed.

    Perhaps there is a ground strap that wasn't reinstalled when the SC was installed ?
    A poor ground can cause all kinds of problems and they don't necessarily show up immediately.
    Find out how many ground straps you are supposed to have, their locations, and check all of them for tightness and resistance.
    Just checking the ground terminal of the battery cable/battery connection isn't good enough here.

    If all of your ground straps are in place and secured, then I would suspect that your BATTERY has a shorted cell in it.
    This explains why the Alternator is constantly charging at 14.4 volts.
    It is supposed to regulate itself between 12.5V and 14.4V.
    Pete...


    2k04 BLACK Mercury Marauder 300A #810 of 3223
    DOB 10/31/2003
    DOP 1/2/2004
    2k19 AGATE FORD Edge ST with Performance Brakes
    DOB 12/11/2018
    DOP 6/19/2019

    Water Wetter, K&N AirCharger/Drycharger, SS Inserts,
    SilverStar 9007SU, WeatherTech WeatherFlectors, Steering Wheel Badge,
    AutoMeter Gauges (Oil Press, Voltmeter, and Trans Oil Temp),
    ASC 840 VSS Sunroof, Kenwood KFC-C6879ie x4, COBRA Fender Badges,
    Z&M Rear Control Arms, FORD GT Coil Covers,
    Gorilla Lock Lugs all around, Decklid Designs Trunk Lid Liner,
    SCT Xcalibrator2 (Innovative Interceptors) w/Lidio's (Alternative Automotive) Marauder 3.55 tuning,
    4R75W by Fred Brown's Performance Transmission, tuned to match Lidio's tune,
    DG Motorsports Carbon Fiber Radiator Cover, Zack's Badgeless Grille,
    Accel 140034-8 Coil Packs, Granatelli Motorsports Coil-On-Plug wires
    Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of rice,
    I will fear no turbo for displacement is with me.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    Okay. Will do. Someone in work mentioned the groundstraps as well. Thanks. And BTW, yes, I've installed the Trilogy S/Cer two weeks ago. The S/Cer in particular is great!!!! The electrical place that I brought the alternator to said that they didn't see any problem w/the alternator being mounted backwards and running in the opposite direction. they checked that too when they had it apart, and after they got it back together.

    This place is very thorough. they even ran it in both directions to check the airflow that runs through it to cool it, and they said that it running in the opposite direction flow about 66% of airflow through it as the airflow rate in the original direction, and they stsed that this should be fine.
    Last edited by BillyGman; 05-04-2004 at 10:37 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    2,227

    Lightbulb

    Check Logan's post's on his S/C install, I remember something about an alternator.
    63 1/2' Merc 406 (434ci) tri-powered "Ratsmoker"

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    New Britain,CT
    Age
    44
    Posts
    277
    Hey Billy, try taking off your negative post to the battery when your car is running, this will let you know if your alternator is working for sure. As far as reading codes with the SCT, i have one, so we could read your codes. If your going to the breakfast on sat. i could do it then, if not, possible i can look at it at work with you today, wed. im working 10-6pm, and friday 10-5. I work at bestbuy on the berlin turnpike, in newington. I can test most electrical functions with cars there, i have all my tools at work. Just give me a call on my cell if you want to make sure i'll be there.
    Frank
    Car
    2003 300A package
    Looks
    45% Legal tint all around
    Weathertech vent shades
    Entertainment
    Pioneer Avic-N1 DVD w/ navigation
    JBL BP1200.1 amp and 3 Rockford Fosgate 12" Punch stage 3 woofers
    Rockford power 2 way 5x7's
    Performance
    1/4 mile: 14.00 sec
    SCT Xcalibrator 2
    Reinhart performanced tuned @ 285 RWHP
    255/55/18" BFG tires KDW2
    Reinhart cobra exhaust
    Meziere electric water pump
    Ford 4.30 gears w/ mobile one 75w90
    Underdrive pulleys
    Tranny Cooler
    Deep dish Tranny pan
    DR Level 2 tranny mod
    MMX Drive shaft
    3000 PI converter
    Cooling Mod
    180 Thermostat
    k&n fipk air charger
    Mobile one 5w20
    Safety
    Escort 8500 x50 linked to the Escort ZR3 Laser jammer
    Custom M5 Bi-xenon headlights
    Clifford alarm/remote start
    Color Backup Camera
    Thermal imaging camera a.k.a. Night Vision
    Setina PB400 push bar
    Hornblasters Conductors special 152db trainhorn, could be classified as entertainment as well!
    Winter
    16" CVPI wheels/Toyo Garit HT Performance winter tires

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Hiram, Georgia
    Age
    61
    Posts
    17,780
    Quote Originally Posted by ultravorx
    Hey Billy, try taking off your negative post to the battery when your car is running, this will let you know if your alternator is working for sure.

    Frank
    Frank: THis may be bad advice. Some alternators do not like being run unloaded and you can fry 'em that way.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    62
    Posts
    6,837
    Okay, this is what I believe that I should do according to what I've been told thus far. When it comes to this electrical diagnostic stuff, there are a lot of grey areas for me. And I'm sure this will prove to be a learning experience for me. I'm going to remove the negative battery cable terminal from the battery post to check the resistence to make sure there is a good ground. This is done w/an ohm meter, and while the car isn't running. One end is contacted to the negative cable terminal while the other is contacted to the intake manifold, and there should be 0.3 ohms registered on the meter at the most. less than 0.3 is fine, but more than 0.3 hms would indicate the engine isn't grounded properly.

    if that cheks out alright, then the next thing I'll focus on is the battery, and I'll take the car somewhere to get a Load test on the battery. If that isn't thenproblem then the only other thing that I know of that it can be is that it needs to have a code cleared, and in that case forunately for me I can call Frank (aka "Ultravorx") because of his generous offer(thankyou frank). I'll let you guys know how all of this pans out. Thanks very much for everyone's help.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. How many forum users does it take to change a light bulb?
    By 2003Marauder in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 03-30-2007, 11:32 PM
  2. Help needed - check engine light
    By duhtroll in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 01-30-2004, 02:34 PM
  3. Intermittant "Check Fuel Cap" light
    By dwasson in forum Community Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-09-2003, 12:38 PM
  4. great fog light mod !!
    By joflewbyu2 in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-17-2003, 08:15 PM
  5. third brake light mod...
    By JerseyVics in forum Community Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 02-15-2003, 03:58 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •