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Thread: New Alignment

  1. #1
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    New Alignment

    OK guys. I have 2003 Grand Marquis GS. I installed a new rack, tie rod ends, sway bar links, rear 1" sway bar, new upper control arms and lower control arm rear bushings, kyb gas adjust HD shocks all around, cut half a coil off of front springs, and the big brake kit. I have been to two places to get an alignment. The first time they did the factory marauder specs and it sucked because the caster was out of whack. This time they did the GM specs and the steering is horrid. I honestly don't feel comfortable driving it. They said the passenger caster was at its max which I don't believe. Can someone please interpret this and let me know what is going on. Oh, pulls to the right especially during braking.
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  2. #2
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    The worst part is any remotely quick steering input makes the front end turn quickly and the rear snaps after it. Not cool when merging at 70 mph.

  3. #3
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    Since you modified the suspension by remove part of the coil you'll need to get new bolts and adjusters to give more adjustment.
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  4. #4
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    The camber was at -.4 on both sides until they cut the tabs off and adjusted them. I think that is the main problem, but I'm not sure. What other bolts need replaced?

  5. #5
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    You need the spc camber bolt kit. Google it and good YouTube video to install.
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  6. #6
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    On the front lower control arm rear bushing, do I push arm to the inside of vehicle for positive caster or pull towards outside?

  7. #7
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    The caster should be the same on both sides. Toe and camber are fine. I'm not sure 0.6 degrees of cross caster is enough to cause your symptoms, but is worth correcting along with any remaining worn parts.

    Pulling under braking usually is a worn joint allowing movement. Putting a 1" bar on the rear without increasing the front is ill-advised and causes oversteer.
    Last edited by lifespeed; 05-23-2015 at 11:32 PM.
    Lifespeed

    2004 Silver Birch Marauder 130K miles
    Wilwood Aero6 F, NMDP R brakes, Penske 7500DA shocks, Hypercoil 600lbs F and Grand Marquis R air springs, Addco tubular sway bars, Metco control & Watts, 31 sp axles, Stainless Works cat-back exhaust, Lidio tune, American Racing AR883 9.3" 50mm F 10" 59mm R 20" wheels, Pirelli P-Zero 265/35-20, 275/40-20 tires

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by N34stryker View Post
    The camber was at -.4 on both sides until they cut the tabs off and adjusted them. I think that is the main problem, but I'm not sure. What other bolts need replaced?
    -0.4 camber is a good setting.
    Lifespeed

    2004 Silver Birch Marauder 130K miles
    Wilwood Aero6 F, NMDP R brakes, Penske 7500DA shocks, Hypercoil 600lbs F and Grand Marquis R air springs, Addco tubular sway bars, Metco control & Watts, 31 sp axles, Stainless Works cat-back exhaust, Lidio tune, American Racing AR883 9.3" 50mm F 10" 59mm R 20" wheels, Pirelli P-Zero 265/35-20, 275/40-20 tires

    Coming soon: Livernois 5.0L stroker, ADTR/Vortech V2 intercooled SC, Silverfox trans and Circle D converter

  9. #9
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    How are the control arm bushings ? Worn bushings can cause a pull when braking.

    '98 MGM LS...sold..................... .............................. ..'03 300A...sold 6/17

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the replies. All of the bushings, ball joints end links, and tie rods are new with the exception of the front lower control arm bushing because the shop said they were fine. I wondered about the sway bar causing the issue. My gs didn't come with a rear sway bar. The odd thing is I had it at ntb, which is horrible by the way, and it was driving great but pulling to the right. Much of that was tires because my fronts were unevenly worn. I was suspecting the camber because even though the caster was more positive on the right and pulling to the right, it handled great. Everything was linear and neutral. Now that the camber was screwed up it handles really poorly.

  11. #11
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    They also said they couldn't get the caster anymore positive on the right which I don't believe. I think it has to be lifted to take the weight off to move it more positive because it is too extreme with the weight on it. I think it needs pulled away from the car to make it more, positive but that will increase my camber too on the right side. I would reduce the caster on the drivers side, but that would Make my camber more positive. Is my thinking correct on thIs? I really wish they didn't cut the adjustment lags off because now I won't be able to do this myself. I just don't trust any of these shops. I hate taking my car places. I do all of the work, but don't have the equipment to do this.

  12. #12
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    When you cut the front springs in most cases even when you remove the flags on camber bolts adjustment is impossible. You need a camber bolt kit see (summit racing). This kit will allow lower control arm to be pulled inward for proper adjustment. Alternative some choose to elongate the slot inbound with a dremel tool.
    As for the pull when braking check for equal pad to rotor wear left/right if all looks good bleed system again.
    2004 marauder black purchased new. Sold 9/16 at 297,000 miles. Still ran strong didn't burn a drop of oil.
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  13. #13
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    Most of the one stop shop repair shops , I would let them look at my car if it broke in their lot. You need to find a true alignment shop. I;ve heard that Firestone stores have been good to a more than a couple members here for alignments to the specs they want.

    Where did you take the car too? what type of shop?
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