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Thread: Drilled/Slotted Rotors & Ceramic Pads Installed

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    3,737
    I have a new in box rotor and pad set, never opened. Bought the big brake adapters and going larger. Anyone want to buy this? Will deal!


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  2. #122
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Midwest Coast
    Posts
    678
    Quote Originally Posted by License2Bill View Post
    This is the exact item I ordered. Looks like he bumped his price up a couple bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-K...077f9e&vxp=mtr

    I don't really know much about them besides what is stated in the auction/Buy it now jamboree. They look awesome, fit perfect, and work better than I could have imagined.

    A buddy of mine runs the Power stop rotors on his 88 LX Mustang convertible and has for the past several years. He races 1/4 and auto x and has never had a problem. This was one of the reasons I decided on this package
    Paid $200 earlier this week for this set; it appears to have dropped to $190 today. Just got the last PITA rotor off and everything back together. Since the seller doesn't provide a break-in procedure, can anyone recommend a good pad bedding procedure for zinc - plated rotors and ceramic pads? I see a country drive in my future tomorrow night...
    03 300A Black 1719/7839
    Current mods: FRP 4.10s, DR 93 Octane & shift tune, 8-clutch stock diff rebuild, bald tires
    Wish list: Eaton M112 kit and/or get bored and stroke it to a 5.0L

    Don't let friends drive stockers:

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Gadsden, Al
    Age
    49
    Posts
    2,370
    After all the bedding I've been thru I'd say just drive it normally. I did the big brake mod to mine and no bedding this last time and they stop great. Until recently I thought bedding was a must. I now know better
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  4. #124
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Midwest Coast
    Posts
    678
    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post
    After all the bedding I've been thru I'd say just drive it normally. I did the big brake mod to mine and no bedding this last time and they stop great. Until recently I thought bedding was a must. I now know better
    Yeah, I remember on previous cars I've owned, I forgot to bed them in at all and they worked fine for years.

    Later last night, I did find Powerstop's bedding procedure at http://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

    5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.

    I will just go for a drive in the country and brake from highway speed to rolling a few times, being careful not to come to a stop with hot pads, then cruise for a while longer.
    03 300A Black 1719/7839
    Current mods: FRP 4.10s, DR 93 Octane & shift tune, 8-clutch stock diff rebuild, bald tires
    Wish list: Eaton M112 kit and/or get bored and stroke it to a 5.0L

    Don't let friends drive stockers:

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Live Oak,Ca
    Age
    31
    Posts
    118
    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    I have a new in box rotor and pad set, never opened. Bought the big brake adapters and going larger. Anyone want to buy this? Will deal!
    You still have these for sale Grant??

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Live Oak,Ca
    Age
    31
    Posts
    118
    Looking to buy this break setup ,anyone have a working link for it on ebay?? Cant seem to find it.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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