I have a new in box rotor and pad set, never opened. Bought the big brake adapters and going larger. Anyone want to buy this? Will deal!
I have a new in box rotor and pad set, never opened. Bought the big brake adapters and going larger. Anyone want to buy this? Will deal!
2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium
2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.
2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.
2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)
Paid $200 earlier this week for this set; it appears to have dropped to $190 today. Just got the last PITA rotor off and everything back together. Since the seller doesn't provide a break-in procedure, can anyone recommend a good pad bedding procedure for zinc - plated rotors and ceramic pads? I see a country drive in my future tomorrow night...
03 300A Black 1719/7839
Current mods: FRP 4.10s, DR 93 Octane & shift tune, 8-clutch stock diff rebuild, bald tires
Wish list: Eaton M112 kit and/or get bored and stroke it to a 5.0L
Don't let friends drive stockers:
After all the bedding I've been thru I'd say just drive it normally. I did the big brake mod to mine and no bedding this last time and they stop great. Until recently I thought bedding was a must. I now know better
2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.
1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.
Yeah, I remember on previous cars I've owned, I forgot to bed them in at all and they worked fine for years.
Later last night, I did find Powerstop's bedding procedure at http://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
I will just go for a drive in the country and brake from highway speed to rolling a few times, being careful not to come to a stop with hot pads, then cruise for a while longer.
03 300A Black 1719/7839
Current mods: FRP 4.10s, DR 93 Octane & shift tune, 8-clutch stock diff rebuild, bald tires
Wish list: Eaton M112 kit and/or get bored and stroke it to a 5.0L
Don't let friends drive stockers:
Looking to buy this break setup ,anyone have a working link for it on ebay?? Cant seem to find it.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)