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Thread: Any tricks to removing the hood?

  1. #1
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    Any tricks to removing the hood?

    I'm going to do the cooling mod and fix the wacky wipers this weekend. It seems that it would be much easier with the hood gone...

    That said, any tips or tricks, or is it as simple as it looks?
    2003 300A, #5379 of 7838

  2. #2
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    Just disconnect the struts and raise it really high with a safe support. I don't even remove the hood to swap engines.


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  3. #3
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    VERY SIMPLE. Only four 8mm bolts, two on each side. Just make sure to have a helper, a little heavy/bulky. Good Luck!
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  4. #4
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    General hood removal suggestions, not specific to the MM.

    I hook a strap, rope, etc. through the latch loop and attach the strap to my chain hoist. This way I can remove a hood by myself. The strap protects the paint, the hoist provides support and control while I am removing the bolts. As a note, I have never had the hood off of my MM, but this is my general procedure for any other hood I have taken off. If you aren't going to be moving/jacking up the car once you get the hood up and want to raise it high as justbob said, you can use hook the latch loop up to whatever you have above the car(rafter, etc.) for a tie point/support. This makes a much safer support than a makeshift prop rod.

    If you do intend to take the hood completely off, look at the mounting points/bolts. Hoods, as most body parts, have slotted/adjustable mountings. You can mark around them with tape/soapstone/etc. and save yourself a lot of time re-aligning when you go to put the hood back on. You would just put it back in the same place it came from by centering everything from your marks. Some I have done needed no extra marks because the washers on the bolts and the hinges had already marked the paint well enough to use for reinstallation.

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  5. #5
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    Like justbob said.... no reason to remove the hood. Once you remove the cowl you'll have plenty of room.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 460mudsports View Post
    General hood removal suggestions, not specific to the MM.

    I hook a strap, rope, etc. through the latch loop and attach the strap to my chain hoist. This way I can remove a hood by myself. The strap protects the paint, the hoist provides support and control while I am removing the bolts. As a note, I have never had the hood off of my MM, but this is my general procedure for any other hood I have taken off. If you aren't going to be moving/jacking up the car once you get the hood up and want to raise it high as justbob said, you can use hook the latch loop up to whatever you have above the car(rafter, etc.) for a tie point/support. This makes a much safer support than a makeshift prop rod.

    If you do intend to take the hood completely off, look at the mounting points/bolts. Hoods, as most body parts, have slotted/adjustable mountings. You can mark around them with tape/soapstone/etc. and save yourself a lot of time re-aligning when you go to put the hood back on. You would just put it back in the same place it came from by centering everything from your marks. Some I have done needed no extra marks because the washers on the bolts and the hinges had already marked the paint well enough to use for reinstallation.

    Ronnie
    To add to this.........

    While the hood is mounted to the hinges, drill 2 1/8" holes in each hinge, when reinstalling use 4, 1/8" rivets in holes for the alignment, it will fit as perfect as does prior to it's removal.
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  7. #7
    let us know how the cooling mod goes, I hear you can do this without removing the intake. etc.

  8. #8
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    Thanks guys. I'm doing all the radiator hoses, idlers and tensioner at the same time as the cooling mod and the wiper motor assy. I hope they all show up in time to do this on Saturday, Sunday's shot. Rockauto is the only place I could find the lower radiator hose (with the tee).
    2003 300A, #5379 of 7838

  9. #9
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    Alternative to get it right back where it came from:

    Drill a tiny little hole (big enough for a small nail) through the center of the hinge plate on each side (where it mounts to the hood itself) before you loosen any bolts. Stick your nail in there to make sure it slides in and out freely to test the hole size. Take the nail out. Then take the hood off.

    When you put the hood back, use the little hole, and a nail on each side, to line up the hinge plates exactly where they were before. If you are worried about rust, paint the hole on the hood and on the hinge plate, and let it dry while you are working on the car.

    Between the factory bolt holes and your new little nail hole, your hood will go back where it was.


    Quote Originally Posted by 460mudsports View Post
    General hood removal suggestions

    (stuff deleted)
    If you do intend to take the hood completely off, look at the mounting points/bolts. Hoods, as most body parts, have slotted/adjustable mountings. You can mark around them with tape/soapstone/etc. and save yourself a lot of time re-aligning when you go to put the hood back on. You would just put it back in the same place it came from by centering everything from your marks. Some I have done needed no extra marks because the washers on the bolts and the hinges had already marked the paint well enough to use for reinstallation.
    Ronnie

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Just disconnect the struts and raise it really high with a safe support. I don't even remove the hood to swap engines.


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevyguy View Post
    This




    Close. My hood struts are relocated and raise the hood high enough to not even touch those anymore.



    Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

    Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
    "Since 2004"
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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