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Thread: Stainless Works Home Install

  1. #46
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    This is a pic of the very first time the system was installed in 2012. You can see how far off it was. It is now nearly perfectly centered with no special welding or extensions or anything. It was just a matter of massaging it in to the correct position and trimming a little piece off the watts link, which I will replace when funds allow with the Metco billet system, which was the plan anyway. I don't have after pics.
    Last edited by tbone; 05-10-2015 at 04:04 PM.

  2. #47
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    Looks like the same hanger problem I've got on my driver's side. Now that I got it shifted over, it definitely fits better, but it seems to still want to move itself. Gonna keep an eye on it, if needed I guess extension like has been suggested.

    Too bad we got a mini blizzard here today, was looking forward to taking it out for a run.

  3. #48
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    But I installed the hangers so they came to the underside of the mufflers.

  4. #49
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    Stainless Works Home Install

    Quote Originally Posted by tbone View Post
    True, but I didn't go out of my way to bash SW. I had a hard time with it and I solved the problem. In fact, I adjusted it more than three times and I still have to go back in and replace the bad clamp they sent me for free.

    Trans guy? Yeah, f*** him. He was an idiot. But he's not a vendor on here.

    Not so much bashing, but warning others this is not like most systems that go in on the first try and fit. Having done it now and knowing the problem areas still doesn't make me want to give a good install price. Yeah, this definitely falls into T&M..

    As for your watts link, I know exactly what you are referring to and that was already built to cheapest standards. Other problem is the Metco is even wider.

    I know with mine being lowered, getting it to clear the watts was a serious PITA! I finally got it to slide just enough forward to clear it after I trimmed a 1/2" or so off one of the pipes.

    The trick I used on the X pipe was inserting the lead pipes and a jack between them (on the ground) and put pressure on them, release, repeat. That stretched it ever so slightly and allowed it to track straighter.

    Still amazes how much it expands out the back when hot.


    Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  5. #50
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    Oh, I forgot that I too had to cut the pipe to move forward a little to help clear the watts link.
    You're right. You think you got it and then it expands a lot to the rear and starts rubbing.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe mosely View Post
    Looks like the same hanger problem I've got on my driver's side. Now that I got it shifted over, it definitely fits better, but it seems to still want to move itself. Gonna keep an eye on it, if needed I guess extension like has been suggested.

    Too bad we got a mini blizzard here today, was looking forward to taking it out for a run.
    Push the entire system up at the rear with some adjustable stands about as far as it will go. Mine was on the ground so I used one jackstand to lift the car and one to lift the pipes. Turn the hangers as far as you can putting pressure on them and the rubber hangers. 2 people helps. Tighten the holy bejeezus out of them. I haven't had a problem since.

    If when you drive it you suddenly hear some god awful vibration resonating throughout the car, your pipes have expanded rearwards and are rubbing on the watts link. Take off the pipe that goes over the axle on the passenger side and trim an inch or so off the rear of the muffler flange, so the pipe can move forward. You may need to trim a little off the watts. It's a C channel. They don't take a lot of pressure so it shouldn't be a big deal.

  7. #52
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    good info. The sw catback may not be perfect but its still the best exhaust you can get.
    2021 F150 XLT Super Crew short bed - no chrome! - 3.5 Ecoboost 400hp/500tq - 36 Gal tank (600 miles) - 4x4 FX4 Offroad + Max Tow - 3.55 Locker - 10 Speed - Pro Power 2kva - 24mpg @ 80 Ford is still the best.
    03 300A - Number 1727
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  8. #53
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    Maiden voyage complete. Didn't lose any pieces, nothing banging underneath. No leaks that I've found, so pretty happy with the end result. I did notice a low vibrating buzz towards the end, if I was idling or turning slowly. Gotta get under it again and check the clearance as suggested. Passenger side tip has migrated up slightly, and is just touching the plastic.

    It sounds good, after the comment about noise with the cats deleted I was a little worried. But its ok just driving around, and when on the throttle its much much better .

  9. #54
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    Passenger side tip has migrated up slightly, and is just touching the plastic.
    Just got dual exhaust put on my Grand Marquis and the tips were touching the bumper cover. There was a vibrating/buzzing on cold starts...Had to bend the tip hangers a little to just clear the bumper and noise is gone.
    2004 Black Marauder: #2237 Born on 4/1/2004

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  10. #55
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by joe mosely View Post
    Maiden voyage complete. Didn't lose any pieces, nothing banging underneath. No leaks that I've found, so pretty happy with the end result. I did notice a low vibrating buzz towards the end, if I was idling or turning slowly. Gotta get under it again and check the clearance as suggested. Passenger side tip has migrated up slightly, and is just touching the plastic.

    It sounds good, after the comment about noise with the cats deleted I was a little worried. But its ok just driving around, and when on the throttle its much much better .
    Cool, glad you got it all installed and setup well. This upgrade definitely has teeth! Gains can be had of 22-25 hp and almost as much torque.
    2021 F150 XLT Super Crew short bed - no chrome! - 3.5 Ecoboost 400hp/500tq - 36 Gal tank (600 miles) - 4x4 FX4 Offroad + Max Tow - 3.55 Locker - 10 Speed - Pro Power 2kva - 24mpg @ 80 Ford is still the best.
    03 300A - Number 1727
    - Super Touring - 10k in the best upgrades - 13.8@99 N/A - SOLD
    - STAP was so much fun, loved meeting you all and racing.



  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by loud2004marquis View Post
    Just got dual exhaust put on my Grand Marquis and the tips were touching the bumper cover. There was a vibrating/buzzing on cold starts...Had to bend the tip hangers a little to just clear the bumper and noise is gone.
    That's what I was going to try first. It doesn't sound metallic. Just waiting to get it back from the dealer today. Crushed the power steering line into the front of the rack and figured I'd let the pros fix that one.

  12. #57
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    A deep well socket and handle is a good tool for bending those hangers. They are very, very strong, and space is limited. I fudged around with this issue a lot too.

    Did you get a whiff of the exhaust without the cats? I am very sensitive to stinky fumes and put them on because of it.
    Last edited by tbone; 04-17-2014 at 12:40 PM.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbone View Post
    A deep well socket and handle is a good tool for bending those hangers. They are very, very strong, and space is limited. I fudged around with this issue a lot too.
    Heat is your friend when instaling any exhaust.

  14. #59
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    If you have a torch and a "speed shop".

    Not to mention a lift that magically raises your car 7 feet in the air.
    Last edited by tbone; 04-17-2014 at 01:35 PM.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe mosely View Post
    Maiden voyage complete. Didn't lose any pieces, nothing banging underneath. No leaks that I've found, so pretty happy with the end result. I did notice a low vibrating buzz towards the end, if I was idling or turning slowly. Gotta get under it again and check the clearance as suggested. Passenger side tip has migrated up slightly, and is just touching the plastic.



    It sounds good, after the comment about noise with the cats deleted I was a little worried. But its ok just driving around, and when on the throttle its much much better .

    Murphy's law..

    If the tip is up, then the muffler is down.




    Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

    Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
    "Since 2004"
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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