Brake booster feedback

[Lowndex]

What are your thoughts on brake boosters (CPP, Ground Up, PST, The Right Stuff Detailing Matt’s Classic Bowtie)?

* I expect many will say, "you do not need one". And this is welcomed information.

* If anyone has a brake booster installed in their 03 or 04 Marauder, please share which one you installed and your overall feedback.

Thank you for the input,
Lowndex

[fastblackmerc]

I have the OEM / original one installed. Works like a charm.

How about switching to hydroboost?

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/

[Lowndex]

I have the OEM / original one installed. Works like a charm.

How about switching to hydroboost?

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/

Yes, I am interested in just such a product. I did some Google searches on various brake boosters along with reviews and complaints for vendors mentioned in my post. Now I seek experienced feedback from our members.

Thank you, sir.

[tbone]

Good luck.....(with the advice)

[martyo]

What are you trying to accomplish by swapping the booster?

[lifespeed]

Is your goal to bypass possible issues with vacuum (and power brake) availability under all circumstances in a boosted car? There are other ways to address this, check valves and a storage canister. The factory check valve and brake booster serves as a modest storage canister already. Remember, even an NA engine at full throttle has no vacuum either, and the brakes still work.

No doubt the hydraulic booster is the best solution available. That said, there are plenty of members with supercharged cars whose brakes apparently work OK. You could always run it on the OEM vacuum booster for a while and see what you think before swapping to a hydraulic booster.

Keep us advised how it works.

[tbone]

No doubt the hydraulic booster is the best solution available. That said, there are plenty of members with supercharged cars whose brakes apparently work OK. You could always run it on the OEM vacuum booster for a while and see what you think before swapping to a hydraulic booster.

The factory brakes are weak, but it is not a booster problem. The pedal effort is somewhat high, but decreasing pedal effort won't do anything for thermal capacity, stopping power, etc.

Which is it?

[lifespeed]

Which is it?

You should post the full context, not snippets.

How about a hydraulic brake booster? I know it won't help for track use (which no one seems to do) because the brakes would overheat quickly, but for DD and 1/4 mile stops, I think it would help a lot.

It seems to me like the Marauder just doesn't have enough vacuum assist in the setup. My slotted/drilled rotors and Monroe ceramic pads helped a lot though.

The fact that a hydraulic booster is better than vacuum does not mean the vacuum booster is inadequate, nor does it make up for inadequacies elsewhere in the system. Bad Marauder brakes are simply that, the brakes (calipers and rotors) suck. Increasing hydraulic pressure does not make up for it. I get great results from my stock vacuum booster, (new) stock master cylinder and Wilwood Aero6/NMDP front/rear caliper combination. I don't feel a need to switch to a hydraulic booster, even though it is "better" the brakes are fantastic as they are.

Lowndex does not run stock brakes either.

[tbone]

What I snipped was plenty. You contradicted yourself. I exposed it.

[FordNut]

The stock booster works fine. Even with boost and cams.

Normally you won't stay in boost more than a few seconds and you're probably not using the brakes at that time.

[lifespeed]

What I snipped was plenty. You contradicted yourself. I exposed it.

Hardly. The fact that a hydraulic booster is better than a vacuum booster does not imply it fixes the Marauder caliper and rotor deficiency. Apples and oranges. Go put a hydraulic booster on your car, hammer the stock brakes with the increased pressure and see how it works out for you. Report back.

Until then everything you have said is just conjecture. Everything I have posted is based on experience with actual brake setups. It took more effort and money than reading an article and typing on a keyboard.

[Lowndex]

What are you trying to accomplish by swapping the booster?

Stop faster.

[Lowndex]

Is your goal to bypass possible issues with vacuum (and power brake) availability under all circumstances in a boosted car? There are other ways to address this, check valves and a storage canister. The factory check valve and brake booster serves as a modest storage canister already. Remember, even an NA engine at full throttle has no vacuum either, and the brakes still work.

No doubt the hydraulic booster is the best solution available. That said, there are plenty of members with supercharged cars whose brakes apparently work OK. You could always run it on the OEM vacuum booster for a while and see what you think before swapping to a hydraulic booster.

Keep us advised how it works.

I will inspect hydraulic boosters. Any make/model you recommend?

[lifespeed]

I will inspect hydraulic boosters. Any make/model you recommend?

I don't have any experience with them, just read positive things about them like everybody else. I also haven't noticed any need for more brake assist with the big Wilwood Aero6 calipers and rotors.

But if you want the very best, there is no argument that hydraulic beats vacuum. You may be looking at that last 5% improvement compared to 95% from the calipers and rotors.

[martyo]

Stop faster.

You may be looking for love in all the wrong places.

I am not sure you will pick up enough of a gain in stopping power from a booster swap unless your booster is failing, which does happen.

I will tell you we have done a couple of the Zack and Jerry big brake upgrades coupled with the TCE stainless lines and found the stopping power more than adequate on cars with more horsepower than I think your build will yield.