Aint none of y'all put a 6.2 in a Marauder?

[SIZEMOREMK]

Sorry I don't have anything to add to your question on the Ford 6.2 but for all the effort, might be worth just getting a Pontiac G8 and leave the work you've done on the Marauder be. G8s look good, almost as rare as a marauder, and come with the 6.0 or 6.2...there are even some manuals out there if you're lucky to find one.

I would mention the new SS but they're almost $50k.

I agree with 88CuttyClassic, those newer GTOs (and I'll include G8s) look like Grand AMs...

In fact I call my buddies GTO a sport compact, but that only invites more ridicule about my lack of torque

The Marauder is the right car for me, no question. Before this, I actually had the 03 CV "Sport" with interior very simmilar to the MM. Should have kept that one for a spare like I had kinda planned. But a really nice 66 F100 came available from an old lady that needed a reliable vehicle, so we traded CV for F100. The F100 will be my sons first vehicle.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I know what you mean they all have that pontiac look, but its subjective. People think the Marauder body is basically a crown vic and or grand marquis, which it really is minus the custom bumpers, whereas those Pontiacs actually have their own body parts. These are all enthusiast cars, if you like it, who cares what people think.

Good luck with the search for more displacement.

[ctrlraven]

No one talks about doing a Ford 6.2 because no one thinks the cost of getting it to actually work will be worth the gains.

The Ford 6.2 will fit, cowl will have to be trimmed or removed, something would have to be figured up with exhaust manifolds or short headers, steering shaft may be in the way, 4R70/5 trans should bolt up. Then you have to figure out a way for engine management with a 2v sohc vct motor.

If you want more displacement out of the modular 4.6 your options are 4.75 (stroked), 5.0 (Boss50 block, Teksid block bored or stroked), 5.1 (Boss50 block bored, Teksid block bored) and 5.3 (Boss50 or Teksid bored and stroked). The Coyote 5.0 is also an option BUT no one has done it yet there are much easier and less costly options.

Putting a GM motor will net more hp per ci if a 6.0 or 6.2 is put and then throwing some boost on that.

Some stuff is just not cost effective if the person truly has a goal of power. A Marauder with a stock motor that has a Trilogy ($7-8k) or Eaton swap kit ($4-4.5k) on it and lets say full exhaust will put down more power at the rear wheels than what the Ford 6.2 does at the flywheel.

[sailsmen]

[QUOTE=MMBLUE;1411286]He already has a MMR 600 in it. - Who has an MMR 600?

The best way you can get to where you want to be Mike - Who is Mike?

[lji372]

what kind of mileage could we get if we modified a prius drive train i wonder.....anybody??

[SIZEMOREMK]

[QUOTE=sailsmen;1411362]

He already has a MMR 600 in it. - Who has an MMR 600?

The best way you can get to where you want to be Mike - Who is Mike?

He's talking about me, I'm the fella that bought his Marauder.

None of this is aimed towards MMBLUE by the way, he sold me a really nice MM.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

A diesel swap, or hybrid (electric/gas) motor swapped panther would be the only thing to impress me. Mileage and torque?

[jnobles06]

A diesel swap, or hybrid (electric/gas) motor swapped panther would be the only thing to impress me. Mileage and torque?

swap in a a 351c. they are are basically the ls based engine less the heads. there are very few differences between the 351c and an ls1. it will probably cost the same as a 6.2 in the end, but itll be faster and it'll be ford. its as close to an ls type engine you can get before buying an an actual ls based engine. if you stroke it with h/c/i and keep it fuel injected with a spyder type efi system it would be SICK

[SIZEMOREMK]

swap in a a 351c. they are are basically the ls based engine less the heads. there are very few differences between the 351c and an ls1. it will probably cost the same as a 6.2 in the end, but itll be faster and it'll be ford. its as close to an ls type engine you can get before buying an an actual ls based engine. if you stroke it with h/c/i and keep it fuel injected with a spyder type efi system it would be SICK

Just to be clear, my questions were posed for the Ford 6.2 from the Raptor and/or the Superduty pickups.

There is no place in my MM for any bowtie motors.

Interesting point on the LS motors being based on a 351c, I have heard that before and kinda dismissed it. Maybe there is something to it?

As for the 351c, I have always heard numerous times that the blocks themselves had issues with voids too close to the cylinder walls, and many couldn't be bored???

Is the 351c a 429/460 bolt pattern? Would you have to go C6 on the tranny? Or would maybe an E4OD or something like that bolt up? OD would be a must. I want to have my cake and eat it too

[jnobles06]

Just to be clear, my questions were posed for the Ford 6.2 from the Raptor and/or the Superduty pickups.

There is no place in my MM for any bowtie motors.

Interesting point on the LS motors being based on a 351c, I have heard that before and kinda dismissed it. Maybe there is something to it?

As for the 351c, I have always heard numerous times that the blocks themselves had issues with voids too close to the cylinder walls, and many couldn't be bored???

Is the 351c a 429/460 bolt pattern? Would you have to go C6 on the tranny? Or would maybe an E4OD or something like that bolt up? OD would be a must. I want to have my cake and eat it too

you can take it up to a 408 and it needs to be stroked to take advantage of the larger port heads it has. you can take it to .060 over stock but i would bore .040.

i'm pretty sure the 351c has the small block windsor transmission bolt pattern.

[MMBLUE]

I think you are answering your own questions. Bird man has some really good points. However, if you think it would cost a lot to beef up what you already have, answer is no.

Your 10-12K figure is not even close. JT trim 2K, stall 500, pullies 150.

Sell your NOVI minus 1500 = 1,150. That will get you close to the 600 mark. Oh yeah, I forgot the serpentine belt 150. Anyway, better than a shat load of money and engineering to fit a 6.2 that won't fit anyway. It will of course, if you don't need the cowl and it's not a daily driver. My .02

[MMBLUE]

[QUOTE=SIZEMOREMK;1411367]

He's talking about me, I'm the fella that bought his Marauder.

None of this is aimed towards MMBLUE by the way, he sold me a really nice MM.

Thanks... I know you got a deal of a lifetime.

MMR 600 short-block here http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/

[SIZEMOREMK]

I think you are answering your own questions. Bird man has some really good points. However, if you think it would cost a lot to beef up what you already have, answer is no.

Your 10-12K figure is not even close. JT trim 2K, stall 500, pullies 150.

Sell your NOVI minus 1500 = 1,150. That will get you close to the 600 mark. Oh yeah, I forgot the serpentine belt 150. Anyway, better than a shat load of money and engineering to fit a 6.2 that won't fit anyway. It will of course, if you don't need the cowl and it's not a daily driver. My .02

When I get around to stepping things up for reals, it will most likely not be with a centri. I'm not ready to do anything in the near term, just exploring some options right now.

I'm as small as I can go on the blower pulley, next step is the crank pulley; and I'm sure I'll do that in the nearer term, along with a stall converter.

I know my shortblock is advertised for 600 to the wheels but I would be affraid to get up real close to 600 on this particular shortblock if I were going with a roots or screw blower. I like a large margin for error.

Realistically, a new 4.6 longblock stroked and worked for serious power is going to be close to 10K by itself.

[88CuttyClassic]

Price wise the g8 gt and gxp are still way high. I considered them for a split second. The only real viable option that had potential to change my mind about the marauder was a charger rt.

If want displacement go old school. Nothing feels or sounds like a big block.

[ctrlraven]

When I get around to stepping things up for reals, it will most likely not be with a centri. I'm not ready to do anything in the near term, just exploring some options right now.

I'm as small as I can go on the blower pulley, next step is the crank pulley; and I'm sure I'll do that in the nearer term, along with a stall converter.

I know my shortblock is advertised for 600 to the wheels but I would be affraid to get up real close to 600 on this particular shortblock if I were going with a roots or screw blower. I like a large margin for error.

Realistically, a new 4.6 longblock stroked and worked for serious power is going to be close to 10K by itself.

When a company advertises it's handling power it will be to the crank, never to the wheels. 600hp to the wheels in our cars is 725-750 at the crank give or take depending on the FI being used since it takes power to make power.

There is very little if anything to be gained by stroking a SC modular engine. Stroking will increase piston speed which increases friction and lowers the maximum rpm of the motor. Boring is the way to go if you have to have increased displacement as with the added benefit of the same as stock or higher maximum rpm of that motor. Increasing the compression ratio can offer a good gain when used on a bored modular motor.

With the blocks there are really only a few differences between the 4.6 4v (305hp/320tq using Mach 1 NA as example) has a 3.94" bore spacing, bore and stroke have both a diameter of 3.55", 5.93" connecting rod length and has a compression ratio of 10.1:1. The Coyote 5.0 NA (412hp/390tq), shares the 4.6's 3.94" bore spacing, bore diameter and stroke have increased to 3.63" and 3.65". The engine also retains the 4.6's 5.93" connecting rod length, which produces a 1.62:1 rod to stroke ratio and has a compression ratio of 11.1:1.