Paint/clear coat work

[Pat]

After the roof was replaced on my MM, I noticed the effect was not very shiny or "smooth" compared to the original paint on the other body panels.

The quality of the paint spray was great, no runs, no faded spots, even consistency, no orange peels or peeble effect. The color, silver birch, was spot on.

I talked to an automotive painter, briefly while in the super market check out lane, and he said the finish needed to be "cut". Not sure exactly was he meant but it sounds like an abrasive technique of some sort.

Does anyone know what may need to be done to make my roof as shiny and smooth as the other, original, body panels?

I trust members of this site based on past experience, so before I go to a paint shop and get hosed I need to understand the terms used and prices for this type of service.

Thanks,

[RubberCtyRauder]

Wet sand with 2000 -3000 grit paper then machine buffed with compound

[Spectragod]

^^^what he said^^^ also called a cut and buff. Your actually starting point (sandpaper grit) would depend on how much orange peel the surface has, you can generally bring the finish back up nicely after 2000 grit with little effort.

[jay87lx]

If you do attempt to do this yourself here are a few suggestions. Use some 3/4" 3M masking tape and tape up the windshield and rear window trim so you don't damage them with the buffer, sanding or get compound all caught up in there. I usually run my tape just over the edge of the moulding onto the paint about 1/8". You can also open both doors and run tape along that edge as well so essentially you have a square area of the roof that you will be correcting. I would strongly suggest a backing pad on your sandpaper, let the paper soak in a bucket of water before using. Starting at 1500 or 2000 depending on the amount of correcting that needs to be done. If you start with 1500 I would follow up with 2000, if you start with 2000 you can go right to buffing. Then I would suggest using Meguiers products. The M105 and 205 combo works very well for professionals and is very user friendly for novices. Meguiers M105 on an appropriate foam pad will get the finish that will be "dull" after sanding all back to almost shiney and glossy, leaving a "haze". Take your time on this step and do the whole area evenly. I would wipe down that area so there is no more excess product around that could get mixed up with the polish. After that the step 2 is the Meguiers M205, again on an appropriate foam pad and polish in the same manner you did the M105. Again, take your time and do the whole area evenly, After that, remove all the tape, wipe down, wax stand back and admire your work...

Being that your car is silver gives you a bit of an advantage

[Pat]

Thanks men, I think we have an understanding of what needs to be done.

[Marauderjack]

Pat......try this on a spot and you will be amazed at the results!!

http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/

A little "elbow grease" and you'll probably wanna do the whole car!!

[Spectragod]

Pat......try this on a spot and you will be amazed at the results!!

http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/

A little "elbow grease" and you'll probably wanna do the whole car!!

I am not so sure I would use Flitz on a painted surface, as it is an abrasive.

[Marauderjack]

It is very lightly abrasive using Sodium Bicarbonate.......have used it hundreds of time with great results!!

[03blackvegas]

If you do attempt to do this yourself here are a few suggestions. Use some 3/4" 3M masking tape and tape up the windshield and rear window trim so you don't damage them with the buffer, sanding or get compound all caught up in there. I usually run my tape just over the edge of the moulding onto the paint about 1/8". You can also open both doors and run tape along that edge as well so essentially you have a square area of the roof that you will be correcting. I would strongly suggest a backing pad on your sandpaper, let the paper soak in a bucket of water before using. Starting at 1500 or 2000 depending on the amount of correcting that needs to be done. If you start with 1500 I would follow up with 2000, if you start with 2000 you can go right to buffing. Then I would suggest using Meguiers products. The M105 and 205 combo works very well for professionals and is very user friendly for novices. Meguiers M105 on an appropriate foam pad will get the finish that will be "dull" after sanding all back to almost shiney and glossy, leaving a "haze". Take your time on this step and do the whole area evenly. I would wipe down that area so there is no more excess product around that could get mixed up with the polish. After that the step 2 is the Meguiers M205, again on an appropriate foam pad and polish in the same manner you did the M105. Again, take your time and do the whole area evenly, After that, remove all the tape, wipe down, wax stand back and admire your work...

Being that your car is silver gives you a bit of an advantage

What do you mean by your last paragraph?

[jay87lx]

Silver is an easier color to deal with vs lets say black

[03blackvegas]

I'm a little confused, in your original post you stated, the affect was not very shiny or smooth compared to the original paint, then right below you state, the quality of the paint spray was great, no runs, no faded spots, no orange peel, etc. Without seeing your car, it sounds like the clear used on the roof was either inferior, or was not applied correctly. Spraying a flat panel with the right Spray gun, using the proper technique, and quality materials, should result in a factory or better finish when pulled out of the booth. To improve the appearance of clear after it has been sprayed usually requires machine polishing of the surface, and typically prior to polishing some form of sanding is done to remove surface imperfections, such as dirt particles and orange peel. If 2 to 3 coats of high solids clear were used on the roof, then sanding with Ultra Fine Wet-N-Dry 1500, to 2000 grit should give desired results. This process is best left up to experienced personal. Bottom line, to it back, and tell them to make the roof look like the rest of the car, which they should have done in the first place.

[03blackvegas]

Silver is an easier color to deal with vs lets say black

What do you mean, "Deal with"?. I'm sure you realize all colors are under clear, so your not working with the actual color like back in the Enamel and Lacquer days. Different colors show flaws and imperfections that are more or less obvious to the human eye, black lets your eyes notice things that white might hide. But lets stop and think about something for a moment, if your working with a painted surface, and your trying to remove flaws and improve the appearance, would't you like to be able your see progress as you moved forward toward your goal? So in a technical function, darker colors allow this to occur. Thus dispelling the idea that darker colors are harder to "Deal with".

[sailsmen]

Black is cheap.

[CrownVictorious]

^ Black Paint Matters.

[MyBlackBeasts]

^ Black Paint Matters.