Changing it up. Again.

[RR|Suki]

who makes that fan/shroud? looks like something I could use

[justbob]

I found it on 4secondsflat.com under the radiator category.


Builder Of Badassery

[RR|Suki]

thanks man

[lifespeed]

Think I've decided on this radiator as its only 16" tall and with the available space being a concern plus not wanting to inject hot air directly into the air filter. It has dual 1" oval tubes and 100% customizable for outlets and filler neck delete.

And optional upgrade is this shroud and fan kit. (Sized to the specific one I order)

Nice work. Any specifications, observations or concerns about the thermal capacity of the new radiator relative to the stocker?

[MOTOWN]

Here is a pic of what i did on my radiator , riveted an aluminum plate to the rad , mounted 12" bee cool fans (Spal units) and moved the rad 2" forward to gain clearance for the 90* 4" elbow on the S/C inlet.

[justbob]

Just their word on the upgraded 2 row vs. a 4 tube copper brass. The claim 50% more cooling. I'm quite sure even the single row would out perform an OEM.

IIRC I have 14 1/2" of vertical space before infringing on the blower inlet.

So A) I'll be kicking the bottom out slightly. B) lower the crossmember some (if I even keep it) C) If space allows, block the very bottom of the inlet.

Trying my best to only have air pass thru the bug catching condenser, and not the radiator as well. I'm not really sold on any elbows to run a typical filter. I think I would rather sacrifice some power with just a mushroom type filter as I should have plenty of unwanted power on tap anyways. I'm trying to keep all supporting items good to go beyond my goal. I would be plenty happy with 650 on the street as I don't want a race car, but one that is capable with stickies, meth, and the bird catcher inlet.

So wether a single or double row will be determined on available space, but my rough measuring is saying double is good to go.


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

Here is a pic of what i did on my radiator , riveted an aluminum plate to the rad , mounted 12" bee cool fans (Spal units) and moved the rad 2" forward to gain clearance for the 90* 4" elbow on the S/C inlet.

Thanks for help Roger. As you personally know, any and all ideas are always a good thing.. I won't lie, this COG set up is starting to just piss me off with all the room it requires. I just wanted something radically different and I'm sure I'll love it soon enough, but if I had to start over I wouldn't bother. The whole reason I bought this car was to be different, so why stop there?


Builder Of Badassery

[lifespeed]

Apparently a "supercharger installation" is all about positioning and fabrication of coolers, tubing and mounting. The engine end is pretty well defined. The stock engine is getting close enough to old age to justify it soon. One of these days . . .

[MOTOWN]

Apparently a "supercharger installation" is all about positioning and fabrication of coolers, tubing and mounting. The engine end is pretty well defined. The stock engine is getting close enough to old age to justify it soon. One of these days . . .

The only problem i see for you going S/C is the State you live in

[justbob]

Apparently a "supercharger installation" is all about positioning and fabrication of coolers, tubing and mounting. The engine end is pretty well defined. The stock engine is getting close enough to old age to justify it soon. One of these days . . .

Good explanation. Yep, you simply remove anything obstructing the blower, bracket, and intercooler, then start slowly piecing the car back together.

If you want the simplest four hour install and some added power, simply go non intercooler P-1 and literally mod nothing.


Builder Of Badassery

[lifespeed]

The only problem i see for you going S/C is the State you live in

I will have to endure the bureaucracy, but I can't just fold and leave the state or buy a Mustang. Engine swaps are legal, I will do a 2004 Mustang Cobra R. To me that looks like any large positive-displacement blower with the right accessories.

[Jeronimojc]

Good explanation. Yep, you simply remove anything obstructing the blower, bracket, and intercooler, then start slowly piecing the car back together.

I am at this stage. Intercooler is installed. Now I am trying to fit the piping.





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[hotford]

Ive done one of those F1A prochargers with Cog set up, there was a hole lot of fabrication needed.......

Good explanation. Yep, you simply remove anything obstructing the blower, bracket, and intercooler, then start slowly piecing the car back together.

If you want the simplest four hour install and some added power, simply go non intercooler P-1 and literally mod nothing.


Builder Of Badassery

[Triple Threat]

Thanks for help Roger. As you personally know, any and all ideas are always a good thing.. I won't lie, this COG set up is starting to just piss me off with all the room it requires. I just wanted something radically different and I'm sure I'll love it soon enough, but if I had to start over I wouldn't bother. The whole reason I bought this car was to be different, so why stop there?


Builder Of Badassery

Last year I had a 8 rib pulley with that s/c bracket.We ran the whole season with the same belt with no problems.This year we will run the 8 rib with a F1A-94.

[justbob]

Last night I started working on the upper to accept the Accufab.

Cut out the divider.

Cut some stock to reform the IAC channel and raised it an 1/8" to better match the new TB. (Upside down)


Welded it up tonight and did some smoothing.

Tomorrow I'll bridge the lower. It needs to be open to the inside, but this is more like a scoop..




Builder Of Badassery