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Old 06-30-2012, 01:57 PM
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Arrow EATC o-ring repair - How to... with pics.

Well, it was my turn for the EATC fixing, I used JAcook's walkthrough about it and I took pics to help with those who might be scared to do it, its pretty easy.

Quote:
JACook:
I know others have revived their EATCs by swapping in the vacuum solenoid assembly from other Ford
products, but I decided to dig a bit deeper. The problem was an o-ring inside one of the EATC solenoids.
Total cost to fix the problem- 'Bout 25 cents, and a couple hours of my time.

Replacing the o-rings requires disassembly of the solenoids, but that's really not that hard to do, if one
has reasonably good mechanical aptitude. But first, make sure they hold vacuum when not energized.
Connect a hose to the center vacuum port (where the black tube was connected) and suck it.
It should hold vacuum. If it doesn't, the following fix probably isn't for you.

The solenoid assembly comes off the EATC module by unscrewing the two T-20 Torx screws on the
back side of the module. Pivot the rear of the assembly up, and disengage the tabs at the front of
the module. Disconnect the solenoid connector.

Lay the solenoid assembly on it's back, and remove the 10 screws holding the solenoids and plenum
strap to the plastic frame. At the wiring end of each solenoid, you'll see two metal tabs folded over,
that hold the solenoid coil and armature to the solenoid frame. Straighten these tabs and then carefully
pull out the armature, while watching you don't lose the spring or plunger that are inside. Note the
o-ring on the armature. That's what we're after.

Next, slide the coil off the end of the plenum tube, and then pinch the ends of the solenoid frame
together to release it from the plenum. Once the solenoid is all apart, fit the armature back into the
end of the plenum tube to check that the o-ring has a good snug fit. If it does, clean the inside of
the tube, and reassemble the solenoid. You can replace the o-ring if you like, but if it fits well, there's
no need.

Make sure you pay attention to the screw flanges on the solenoid frame. Pinch the end of the frame
together to fit it back onto the plenum. The spacer that goes at the plenum end of the solenoid
has the inside diameter undercut, and four grooves. The undercut end goes toward the plenum, and
you'll see four ribs at the base of the plenum tube that mate with the four grooves in the spacer.

The armature slides back on next, followed by the plunger, and then the spring. (The flat end of
the plunger goes into the hole first, if you missed how it came out.) Use a bit of dielectric grease on
the o-ring, (I used Nylog) but do not use any oil or anything on the plunger. Make sure the tip of the
armature where the plunger seals against it, is clean and shiny. Don't get any dielectric grease on the
tip of the armature. Clean and dry is what you want here. Slide the armature back into the end of the
solenoid, and while pressing everything back together, fold the metal tabs back over.

Repeat this for each of the four solenoids. On mine, the one that was leaking was for the floor vent
door (red hose). It was obvious when I got to that one. The armature came out much easier than the
others, and when I test-fitted the armature back into the plenum tube,
it was a much looser fit.
Or for those who are better seeing than reading...

- Remove the dash trim about the EATC unit (pulls up from the passenger side all the way to the steering wheels)

- Remove the 4 screws on the front of the unit holding it in.



- Remove the 2 electical connectors, then the 2 black nuts holding the vacuum connector on the ports.




Once the unit is out, remove the 2 gold torqs screws on the back, then the top half will lift up and off. This is the vacuum soleniods and vacuum plenum.




-Once they are off, unplug the wire connector to the solenoids.




Once the vacuum solenoid assembly is off remove all 10 of the screws holding it all down, (here you can skip to the step about bending the tabs on the rear of the solenoid if you just need to replace the o-ring) then you can gently pry up the 2 long arms that are closest to the middle of plenum.



once that is off you can pull the whole solenoid and frame straight off.



Once the solenoid is off, there will be two tabs on the rear folded over the back, pry them up till they are straight, then slightly pry to two side ones up (these are the ears on the part of the solenoid that has the o-ring on it), and the rear of the solenoid will pull off the back.





Once that is off, you will see the o-ring you need to replace.
(the red/orange one is the new one in this picture)
Replace the oring- then there is a little silver part that goes in the black body of the vacuum plenum, rubber tit end in 1st, then the spring on the back of it, you will see how it sits on the silver peice, then the frame around the solenoid, with the spacer... push this all back onto the plenum, making sure your 4 slots of the spacer are lined up, and when it fits back together, fold all 4 of your tabs back over.


Repeat this on the other solenoids, then re-install everything in the reverso order or removal... and fire it up.


Did mine today, took an hour, maybe 1.5 hrs. Working GREAT. Pretty cheap fix too.


Hope it helps.
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Last edited by Black_Noise; 06-30-2012 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:06 PM
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Did you use some silicone dilectric grease on the new o-rings? Will make them last longer.

No need to remove the guts of the solenoid, just pull out the shaft.... Have never found anything wrong except the o-rings in the 100+ I've done.
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
Did you use some silicone dilectric grease on the new o-rings? Will make them last longer.

No need to remove the guts of the solenoid, just pull out the shaft.... Have never found anything wrong except the o-rings in the 100+ I've done.
well...thats one way to do it.... lol, I didnt know if it needed to or not so I just disasembled it all.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:04 PM
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Wondering what's the deal with mine blows cold then when car warms up it gets cool, if I put the temperature hot it doesn't get hot stays cool. Any thoughts? thanks
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:17 PM
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blend door stuck?
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airjordan2k8 View Post
Wondering what's the deal with mine blows cold then when car warms up it gets cool, if I put the temperature hot it doesn't get hot stays cool. Any thoughts? thanks
Sounds like the blend door. Run the EATC self-test to see if there are any codes. Sometimes running the test 3 - 5 times fixes the problem.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
Sounds like the blend door. Run the EATC self-test to see if there are any codes. Sometimes running the test 3 - 5 times fixes the problem.
FBM, how do you run the test??
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:28 PM
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A google.com search returns this as the first hit:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=58956

I searched for: "marauder eatc test"
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
A google.com search returns this as the first hit:

[url]http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58956[/url ]

I searched for: "marauder eatc test"
So I ran the test and gave me code 024. I know its the blend door, I just replaced the bda. Any thoughts???
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airjordan2k8 View Post
So I ran the test and gave me code 024. I know its the blend door, I just replaced the bda. Any thoughts???
Bad connection at the blend door motor & check fuse #23 (15 amp).

Shop manual says, Blend door short or failure. go to pin point test "A".
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
Bad connection at the blend door motor & check fuse #23 (15 amp).

Shop manual says, Blend door short or failure. go to pin point test "A".
Fuse seems fine should I take it apart again?? Mechanic said it was the plenom but idk that's why I came back here with more questions.

Last edited by airjordan2k8; 07-01-2012 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:16 PM
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This is a great post! Thank you Black Noise but , I just spent $100 bucks on EBay for a remaned one before I saw this. SHHIITT!! Guess I'll fix my old one and try to sell it to get my money back...
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:16 PM
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thanks took me about 5 hours, had to find a store that sold the right size o rings but finally got em
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:26 PM
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I just did my second EATC repair. The first repair I replaced the the OEM o-rings with regular rubber o-rings. This time I ordered some silicone o-rings. So put my EATC back in turn on and the same problem persists. Air STILL Blowing out of DEFROST VENT ONLY.... I then performed an EATC Self Test, and I got 888 with all displays. Which I read to be No Codes... So someone please tell me what else can be WRONG?????
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
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thanks took me about 5 hours, had to find a store that sold the right size o rings but finally got em
But were they silicone o-rings?
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