Has anyone upgraded their Timing Chain Primary Tensioners?

[ctrlraven]

To the cast iron/steel ones that look like these...



I'm trying to find out if these require a special gasket/seal or if they came with one. Also looking for a part number for the left and right ones from Ford.

[Zack]

Most 03's came with those. They were phased out and replaced with the plastic versions. No gasket necessary on the cast iron units.

I dont know if they are still available.

[ctrlraven]

Most 03's came with those. They were phased out and replaced with the plastic versions. No gasket necessary on the cast iron units.

I dont know if they are still available.

The reason why I ask is because I have seen pictures with a thin metal gasket such as below (I assume it's metal):


I am going to replace the tensioners and guides on my stock motor so I can start to enjoy the car again until whenever my motor swap gets done.

[whitey]

Seneca and Richardp just tackled this, try getting in touch with one of them

[ctrlraven]

I think I found the answer to my question:

The Tensioner style may look different than your original style. This newer style was first introduced by Ford in the year 2000 on the 4.6L V-8 and continued through 2004 and perhaps further. It has performed well and makes the timing system installation a little easier. The earlier style is cast iron and has a ratchet system and pounting plate. We have adopted this newer style for all of our 4.6 and 5.4 V-8 engines and the 6.8L V-10 engines. During installation be sure to use a mounting plate under the Tensioner if the original style used one. If the original version did not use or need a plate under the Tensioner then one is not required. Oil pressure leaks and improper Tensioner operation will occur if the plate was left out of an installation that requires one.

So if mine has the plastic type I can just use the metal ones without the plate being needed? If it has the metal ones originally then I just transfer over the plate?

[ctrlraven]

Seneca and Richardp just tackled this, try getting in touch with one of them

I've already been in talks with Seneca , he will be molesting my MM very soon. Just trying to line up parts now. No sense in buying parts when I already have something that will work.

[whitey]

I would think that what that means is if the originals were plastic, and you were to install the metal ones, you need the plate that goes with the metal ones. If your replacing the metal ones with plastic, then the metal gasket is not needed any more, like its already molded into the plastic.

[RichardP]

Notice the blown gasket on the original.

[RF Overlord]

I'm confused.

Are the "good" ones plastic or metal, do they need the flat plate, and do they have a gasket or no?

[tbone]

New tensioners are listed on Rock Auto. I already bought the guides and plan to buy the tensioners when funds allow. Doing it when I do my Eaton swap.

[Zack]

Ive never seen a plate under any tensioner. Don't use it if it is supplied.

FYI those 'seals' on the plastic units are damaged upon disassembly. There is sufficient surface area without a seal to keep oil in, just by the housing alone.

[whitey]

I'm confused.

Are the "good" ones plastic or metal, do they need the flat plate, and do they have a gasket or no?

It appears that the metal ones need a gasket(what looks like thin metal plate), the plastic ones have a rubber seal built in around the edge. The "good" ones i would assume are the metal ones, as you can see richardp's original plastic ones that the rubber seal blew out.

[Zack]

Again, the metal versions do not need a gasket. Bolt on and go

[ctrlraven]

I'm confused.

Are the "good" ones plastic or metal, do they need the flat plate, and do they have a gasket or no?

The metal ones are considered an upgrade for those who have the plastic ones since the metal ones come with a built in fail safe ratchet in case of oil pressure loss. The metal primary tensioners have no gasket but come with a plate.

New tensioners are listed on Rock Auto. I already bought the guides and plan to buy the tensioners when funds allow. Doing it when I do my Eaton swap.

Yeah Rock Auto has Cloyes as their tensioner brand.

[ctrlraven]

Ive never seen a plate under any tensioner. Don't use it if it is supplied.

FYI those 'seals' on the plastic units are damaged upon disassembly. There is sufficient surface area without a seal to keep oil in, just by the housing alone.

I didn't see a plate on the metal ones either, I took these off the 04 Mach 1 heads I had.

Again, the metal versions do not need a gasket. Bolt on and go

Just want to make sure! Hate to have everything apart and not have the right stuff.