PDA

View Full Version : Front Suspension Rebuild



ctrlraven
12-17-2015, 11:42 AM
Time to replace everything, this is what I have on my list so far, let me know if I am missing anything please.

Upper Control Arm Left
Upper Control Arm Right
Lower Control Arm Left
Lower Control Arm Right
Front Struts
Front Coil Springs
Coil Spring Insulators
Stabilizer Bar Links
Camber Adjustment Bolts

Tie Rod Ends?

Was looking at MOOG for the brand, is there much of a difference between the stamped and forged upper control arms? I see ACDelco and Raybestos make the forged ones, just want to make sure I can still service/be able to grease.

MOTOWN
12-17-2015, 12:39 PM
I would go with the forged upper control arms , and also replace the inner tie rods.

ctrlraven
12-17-2015, 12:59 PM
I would go with the forged upper control arms , and also replace the inner tie rods.
I figured forged would most likely be the better choice since that's what the original part is as well.

What about outer tie rods?

MOTOWN
12-17-2015, 01:40 PM
I figured forged would most likely be the better choice since that's what the original part is as well.

What about outer tie rods?

Yeah i did the inner and outer tie rods , you can press in new lower ball joints if the bushings are good , which is cheaper than replacing the lower control arm.

HotRaud90
12-17-2015, 07:41 PM
Was looking at MOOG for the brand, is there much of a difference between the stamped and forged upper control arms? I see ACDelco and Raybestos make the forged ones, just want to make sure I can still service/be able to grease.

I'm goin to be doin this rebuild in the near future as well. However, I'm hesitant with the springs. I have this feelin that they'll make the car sit higher than I want and that it'll look like straight up butt.

As far as the upper arms go, I've asked around and it seems kinda 50/50. Some will say forged because it's OEM style, and then there are those who converted to newer part with serviceable bushings and have noticed no difference. I like the idea of being able to grease them, so I might go that route as well. We'll see.

Lower arms are so daggum expensive. I wonder how difficult/what tools you would need to press in new ball joints for the lower and just keep the original arm.

Logizyme
12-17-2015, 08:45 PM
Honestly there is not going to be any noticeable performance difference between the cast(often wrongly listed as forged) and the stamped upper arms. The cast are likely slightly stronger, the stamped likely slightly lighter.

Personally sealed ball joints tend to keep their grease and last longer than the "serviceable" greasable joints - that's why the factory uses them and no longer uses joints with grease fittings.

Unfortunately most the aftermarket brands have had at least somewhat of a bad reputation, those who use motorcraft/OEM are rarely heard complaining.


Yeah i did the inner and outer tie rods , you can press in new lower ball joints if the bushings are good , which is cheaper than replacing the lower control arm.

The rear bushing is easily replaced, the front bushing can also be pressed in and pressed out, but its a tough one. A typical ball joint press kit will have adapters to fit the front LBJ and it can be done in car without removal of the control arm.

MOTOWN
12-18-2015, 05:18 AM
Honestly there is not going to be any noticeable performance difference between the cast(often wrongly listed as forged) and the stamped upper arms. The cast are likely slightly stronger, the stamped likely slightly lighter.

Personally sealed ball joints tend to keep their grease and last longer than the "serviceable" greasable joints - that's why the factory uses them and no longer uses joints with grease fittings.

Unfortunately most the aftermarket brands have had at least somewhat of a bad reputation, those who use motorcraft/OEM are rarely heard complaining.



The rear bushing is easily replaced, the front bushing can also be pressed in and pressed out, but its a tough one. A typical ball joint press kit will have adapters to fit the front LBJ and it can be done in car without removal of the control arm.

Im familiar with how to replace the bushings, but if they are not in need of replacement there is no need in changing the entire lower control arm.

Bradley G
12-18-2015, 05:48 AM
Sway bar bushings, ? mine are loose on the GMQ.
@ 180K , so far I have needed, outer tie rod, idler arm, pitman arm & a lower ball joint.
It needs end links again and ∆∆ sway bushings.

ctrlraven
12-18-2015, 06:58 AM
I'm torn between using the current oem coil springs (about 250k miles on them) vs getting new ones. I know Zack has said every time this is brought up to just keep the stock ones.

lifespeed
12-18-2015, 11:18 AM
Honestly there is not going to be any noticeable performance difference between the cast(often wrongly listed as forged) and the stamped upper arms. The cast are likely slightly stronger, the stamped likely slightly lighter.

Personally sealed ball joints tend to keep their grease and last longer than the "serviceable" greasable joints - that's why the factory uses them and no longer uses joints with grease fittings.

Unfortunately most the aftermarket brands have had at least somewhat of a bad reputation, those who use motorcraft/OEM are rarely heard complaining.



The rear bushing is easily replaced, the front bushing can also be pressed in and pressed out, but its a tough one. A typical ball joint press kit will have adapters to fit the front LBJ and it can be done in car without removal of the control arm.

All good points, especially using sealed Ford parts. Back in the day Moog was top notch. Not so sure today, everything is made in China now. Ford is a known quantity and I haven't heard any complaints either. I have 45K miles on rebuilt suspension using Ford parts and it feels great.

lifespeed
12-18-2015, 11:20 AM
I'm torn between using the current oem coil springs (about 250k miles on them) vs getting new ones. I know Zack has said every time this is brought up to just keep the stock ones.

250K miles springs are sagged. They also tend to break when they get old. I would replace them. But they don't make the Marauder spring anymore so you will have to have them made. Which is not a big deal, but you'll need to provide the specs to the coil spring mfg.

Some on here have gone this route, perhaps they can help with the specs.

Zack
12-18-2015, 11:23 AM
I have stamped uppers, no difference at all.

Definitely replace the springs if you are doing everything else

Lowndex
12-18-2015, 11:25 AM
I would go with the forged upper control arms , and also replace the inner tie rods.

I did and love the results.