Inner tire wear WHY!?!

[Starshooter10]

So, I bought my merc with 100k mi.
Right off the bat new tires all around, stock size, Cooper zeon RS3A.

10k later the inner 1" of my new tires were showing cords.
Alignment done (put spot on within spec, though it wasn't far from it to begin with.)
New front tires again.

Another 10k... Belts again!
Take it back to alignment shop. New upper and lower ball joints, both sides.
New tires, alignment done again. (Again, it was already in spec)

8k miles after that I turned the tires 180* to wear the outside (now insides)
It's been another 5k and it is again showing wear.

When the inner tread gets worn I get a shake through the steering wheel at freeway speed ( not all the time, maybe 10% of the time)
I've had the thing aligned at 2 different shops, looked at at 2 additional shops.
They all say everything look fine.

What can I look at? I recently broke my arm, wrenching is still possible but not easy.

[justbob]

The shake at highway speed is your tell tale "need new front tires" sign. With that said, you need to look up "Carfixers alignment specs" to cure this as it differs from the factory crown Vic (smaller wheel) specs the factory threw at it..

Also look into the removal of the alignment flags/tabs as your shop may or may not remove them for you to gain this newer alignment spec.

If your car has been lowered or your springs are sagging you may need the camber/caster bolt kit to achieve the specs.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sps-87365

My car is lowered and used to chew tires till I added them bolts. Tires sit nice and true now.


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[fastblackmerc]

The shake at highway speed is your tell tale "need new front tires" sign. With that said, you need to look up "Carfixers alignment specs" to cure this as it differs from the factory crown Vic (smaller wheel) specs the factory threw at it..

Also look into the removal of the alignment flags/tabs as your shop may or may not remove them for you to gain this newer alignment spec.

If your car has been lowered or your springs are sagging you may need the camber/caster bolt kit to achieve the specs.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sps-87365

My car is lowered and used to chew tires till I added them bolts. Tires sit nice and true now.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

What he ^^^ said

[RubberCtyRauder]

What justbob said ^^^

here are the carfixer specs (the third post lists them)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=73051

alignment flag to remove if not using cam bolts
http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu92/mdnos/flag_zpsa617e7b0.jpg

[fastblackmerc]

What justbob said ^^^

here are the carfixer specs (the third post lists them)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=73051

alignment flag to remove if not using cam bolts
http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu92/mdnos/flag_zpsa617e7b0.jpg

You need to remove the alignment flags or you won't be able to get to carfixers specs.

[Mr. Man]

Mercury set the MM up with excessive negative camber to give the car a more sporty driving experience. The result is a car that turns in better than the CV or GM but the compromise is excessive wear on the tires inside edges.

Do what JustBob said and you will get much better wear.

Here is an article that explains alignment if you are not familiar with it and what happens

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

[8UWITH6]

To put it simple tell your alignment tech to ZERO the toe and make camber as POSITIVE as possible.

[Lowndex]

The shake at highway speed is your tell tale "need new front tires" sign. With that said, you need to look up "Carfixers alignment specs" to cure this as it differs from the factory crown Vic (smaller wheel) specs the factory threw at it..

Also look into the removal of the alignment flags/tabs as your shop may or may not remove them for you to gain this newer alignment spec.

If your car has been lowered or your springs are sagging you may need the camber/caster bolt kit to achieve the specs.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sps-87365

My car is lowered and used to chew tires till I added them bolts. Tires sit nice and true now.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

I just ordered a set. Thank you for the advice.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Change to a better tire like Hankook.
Increase tire pressure to 38psi front and 40 rear.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Nothing wrong with the. Cooper RS3A the problem lies within the manufacturer of car using 16" rim specs and using lowr springs and 18" rim thus you have to go beyond their factory setting

[lifespeed]

Mercury set the MM up with excessive negative camber to give the car a more sporty driving experience. The result is a car that turns in better than the CV or GM but the compromise is excessive wear on the tires inside edges.

Do what JustBob said and you will get much better wear.

Here is an article that explains alignment if you are not familiar with it and what happens

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

Actually it is the toe-out that causes inner edge wear, not a reasonable amount of negative camber. I have always run -0.7 camber to improve cornering and got 30K miles out of every set of front BFG tires.

I don't agree with the camber in the oft-quoted carfixer specs. I say -0.5 to -0.7 degrees camber, matched within 0.1 side to side.

[lifespeed]

To put it simple tell your alignment tech to ZERO the toe and make camber as POSITIVE as possible.

What? Make the camber correct, and do repairs as needed to get there. Sagging springs, camber bolts, whatever it takes to get the camber to -0.5 to -0.7.

Works great.

[8UWITH6]

What? Make the camber correct, and do repairs as needed to get there. Sagging springs, camber bolts, whatever it takes to get the camber to -0.5 to -0.7.

Works great.

Alright then lets make it complicated. The OP said he already had the front end checked and new ball joints installed. What is the definition of "correct" on the camber angle if every car varies because of many different variables? If he is not replacing the lower control arm bolts there will be minimal adjustment on the camber with the factory cam bolts. Most of the time unless the car has been lowered the camber should be able to be adjusted to -0.5 to -0.7 like you said if not even more positive. Before someone argue's that the spec on these cars is more negative for handling or performance, remember the OP is complaining of tire wear. To remedy this he needs to ZERO the toe (which will take care of most of his issue to be honest) and make his camber as POSITIVE as possible on both sides and as EVEN as possible. Problem solved.

My DBP has been lowered front and back at least an inch since a month after I got it. It has Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval AS tires on the front and rear. The tires have 28K miles on them on zero toe, and LF -0.7 and RF -0.8 camber with not even a hint of edgewear. HTH OP.