Drivers door lock issue

[Super-Merc]

Good day all. My drivers door lock actuator has been acting up for quite some time and figured I would replace it. The lock would unlock with key fob, keypad, and door switch. The lock will not lock when put into gear, (all the others do) or when any of the other inputs are selected. It had been slow to actuate in the past but quit completly now. I have to hit the switches several times for the rears to pop sometimes but usually they work. I replaced the drivers actuator with a new Doorman style and after reinstalling the door panel found that it too would not lock. I tore it all back apart and unhooked the lock from the actuator and tried it with the switch. It will unlock but not lock but all of the other ones work as advertised. I did have the door open when attempting all of this but didn't it would be an issue. I searched the forums but can't find anyone with this issue. Thanks for reading this, Rob

[mike6681]

I have the same problem with mine, I just havent got around to fixing it yet. From what I found part is fairly cheap just little bit of labor involved.

[03Merc]

I have the same problem with mine, I just havent got around to fixing it yet. From what I found part is fairly cheap just little bit of labor involved.


It's an easy fix. The part is $47.50 shop price from Ford. I changed My passenger and now have to do the driver. Strangely they both stopped working within the same week. My '03 GM never had this issue with over 220k miles...


#1618 of 3214

[fastblackmerc]

Good day all. My drivers door lock actuator has been acting up for quite some time and figured I would replace it. The lock would unlock with key fob, keypad, and door switch. The lock will not lock when put into gear, (all the others do) or when any of the other inputs are selected. It had been slow to actuate in the past but quit completly now. I have to hit the switches several times for the rears to pop sometimes but usually they work. I replaced the drivers actuator with a new Doorman style and after reinstalling the door panel found that it too would not lock. I tore it all back apart and unhooked the lock from the actuator and tried it with the switch. It will unlock but not lock but all of the other ones work as advertised. I did have the door open when attempting all of this but didn't it would be an issue. I searched the forums but can't find anyone with this issue. Thanks for reading this, Rob

Is the connector on the actuator the right way?

Maybe the switch is not working one way.

Try one of the known good actuators or buy a Ford actuator.

Squirt so lubricant in the lock mechanism, I like to use 3in1 Dry Lock Lube or any other lube that doesn't stay wet or sticky.

[L.Mark]

Is the connector on the actuator the right way?

Maybe the switch is not working one way.

Try one of the known good actuators or buy a Ford actuator.

Squirt so lubricant in the lock mechanism, I like to use 3in1 Dry Lock Lube or any other lube that doesn't stay wet or sticky.


Hehehawwww...

[Super-Merc]

Both the new and old actuators worked the same way and I did squirt some lube in the lock, it moves freely. Thanks for the replies, Rob

[EMAS]

The problem most likely is the driver's door module. The switches are not connected to the actuators they are connected to the DDM. The DDM has two outputs, one that is connected to the driver's door and one that runs to the rest of the doors. That is how they unlock the driver's only on one button push or when the base code is entered on the key pad. It is the same for the crown vics and grand marquis but I don't know exactly which years work.

The system works by having two relays per channel. Both connect the wires to ground when they are at rest. Activate the relay and that wire is disconnected from ground and to 12v. So if one of the relays won't activate the actuator will only operate in one direction.

To test disconnect the wire to the actuator test for the presence of ground on both wires when the switches are at rest. Then actuate the switch and check for 12v at each wire when actuating the switch in both directions.

[Turbov6Bryan]

I know a guy with a drivers door module if you need to buy one!

Let me know :)

[Super-Merc]

Thanks for the input, I will try that this weekend. I suspect the module as well so I may need a different one.

[Super-Merc]

[QUOTE=EMAS;1480050]The problem most likely is the driver's door module. The switches are not connected to the actuators they are connected to the DDM. The DDM has two outputs, one that is connected to the driver's door and one that runs to the rest of the doors. That is how they unlock the driver's only on one button push or when the base code is entered on the key pad. It is the same for the crown vics and grand marquis but I don't know exactly which years work.

The system works by having two relays per channel. Both connect the wires to ground when they are at rest. Activate the relay and that wire is disconnected from ground and to 12v. So if one of the relays won't activate the actuator will only operate in one direction.

To test disconnect the wire to the actuator test for the presence of ground on both wires when the switches are at rest. Then actuate the switch and check for 12v at each wire when actuating the switch in both directions.

I did have a ground on both leads until actuated but my meter wasn't fast enough the catch the voltage. Both lock and unlock showed volts but couldn't tell how much. Any way to clean the relay points?

[fordnut02]

Good day all. My drivers door lock actuator has been acting up for quite some time and figured I would replace it. The lock would unlock with key fob, keypad, and door switch. The lock will not lock when put into gear, (all the others do) or when any of the other inputs are selected. It had been slow to actuate in the past but quit completly now. I have to hit the switches several times for the rears to pop sometimes but usually they work. I replaced the drivers actuator with a new Doorman style and after reinstalling the door panel found that it too would not lock. I tore it all back apart and unhooked the lock from the actuator and tried it with the switch. It will unlock but not lock but all of the other ones work as advertised. I did have the door open when attempting all of this but didn't it would be an issue. I searched the forums but can't find anyone with this issue. Thanks for reading this, Rob

Its the door look motor , easy to change , just did mine 2 weeks ago

[Super-Merc]

I already changed the door lock motor, it's new.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Will you get voltage if you press and hold the lock or unlock button?

My dads 97 Camry with 325k wore the wires out from opening and closing the door too many times.

If you try unlocking the door multiple times while slowly opening the door, then if it starts working you have a wiring issue

[Super-Merc]

Will you get voltage if you press and hold the lock or unlock button?

My dads 97 Camry with 325k wore the wires out from opening and closing the door too many times.

If you try unlocking the door multiple times while slowly opening the door, then if it starts working you have a wiring issue

I have voltage, as the meter tries to show something but the relays only hold the contact for a very short time and my meter doesn't have time to measure it. I suspect the contacts on the DDR module are burnt and only allowing a small amount to the actuator, unless my brand new actuator is faulty. Thanks for reading, Rob

[Super-Merc]

Thanks to all that replied, problem was worn out relays in the drivers door lock module. Thanks to turbov6bryan, hooked me up with a functional replacement. This site has always been a great help for me,

Rob

[Turbov6Bryan]

All the credit goes to EMAS for the diagnostic portion of it.

Really happy you got it all fixed up!

[fastblackmerc]

Thanks to all that replied, problem was worn out relays in the drivers door lock module. Thanks to turbov6bryan, hooked me up with a functional replacement. This site has always been a great help for me,

Rob

Do you still have the old module? If so, PM me.

[Super-Merc]

Sorry but I chucked it as I figured it was not serviceable.

[EMAS]

Glad to hear that you have it fixed.

[crownvic05]

Thanks to all that replied, problem was worn out relays in the drivers door lock module. Thanks to turbov6bryan, hooked me up with a functional replacement. This site has always been a great help for me,

Rob

When replacing the DDM, does it have to be programmed when it comes to the keypad option?

[fastblackmerc]

When replacing the DDM, does it have to be programmed when it comes to the keypad option?

The keys and the keypad need to be "married" to the DDM.

[crownvic05]

Does it have to be married just to test if the problem is the ddm or something esle? Because all my locks work fine expect the front driver side. No up nor down. I have a spare DDM at home and if I can just plug that one in and see if the lock goes up and down then I will try it before buying a lock actuator.

[fastblackmerc]

Does it have to be married just to test if the problem is the ddm or something esle? Because all my locks work fine expect the front driver side. No up nor down. I have a spare DDM at home and if I can just plug that one in and see if the lock goes up and down then I will try it before buying a lock actuator.

If only one lock doesn't work it's most likely the actuator.

[BAD MERC]

My 2004 just started doing this!! The alarm and lock switch locks all doors but the driver. Unlock works fine on all doors. I replaced my actuator as well but will dive into the DDM and see if I can replace the relay similar to the LCM fix. if so, I will document it here,

[EMAS]

The keys and the keypad need to be "married" to the DDM.

No. You do need to use the code on the DDM for it to work as each DDM has it's primary code permanently programmed into it.

You will however have to reprogram it to accept your remotes in the standard fashion that you use to add/remove remotes.

The transponder system has nothing to do with the DDM.

[EMAS]

Does it have to be married just to test if the problem is the ddm or something esle? Because all my locks work fine expect the front driver side. No up nor down. I have a spare DDM at home and if I can just plug that one in and see if the lock goes up and down then I will try it before buying a lock actuator.

Does it make a grinding or whirring sound when you activate it? If so then it is the actuator.

You can just plug in your spare DDM and see if it works just in case. It does not need to be "married" to your key pad or key just the remotes via the standard procedure. You will need to use the keyless code for the replacement DDM which is printed on the sticker.

As I detailed above the driver's actuator is a separate circuit from the other three so that one push of the button on the remote or the 5 digit code will unlock the driver's door only.


My 2004 just started doing this!! The alarm and lock switch locks all doors but the driver. Unlock works fine on all doors. I replaced my actuator as well but will dive into the DDM and see if I can replace the relay similar to the LCM fix. if so, I will document it here,

There are actually a couple of relays in the DDM and the two that actuate the door lock are an usual 6 pin relay. However they are Tyco and have the part number on them so if you can source the relay it is replaceable.

[BAD MERC]

Well I guess I am either REALLY good or just lucky. Probably both. Mine started working again after I fiddled with it and tapped on the relays. It seems quite simple inside and there's no chance of water intrusion because of the location.

[EMAS]

Well I guess I am either REALLY good or just lucky. Probably both. Mine started working again after I fiddled with it and tapped on the relays. It seems quite simple inside and there's no chance of water intrusion because of the location.

I wouldn't expect that fix to last. You probably jarred a bad connection back into working and sooner or later that connection will stop again.

[BAD MERC]

I wouldn't expect that fix to last. You probably jarred a bad connection back into working and sooner or later that connection will stop again.

I would anticipate inactivity might have caused the relay issue. This sat for 4 years with very little use. I will buy the module if I must or wait for Dorman to make them with improvements.

[fastblackmerc]

I would anticipate inactivity might have caused the relay issue. This sat for 4 years with very little use. I will buy the module if I must or wait for Dorman to make them with improvements.

If someone has a spare module I'd be willing to look into replacing the relays. The first person to get one to me will get the repair free.

[EMAS]

If someone has a spare module I'd be willing to look into replacing the relays. The first person to get one to me will get the repair free.

Why not open up your DDM and look at the part numbers on the relay? It is not a common relay though as it is a 6 pin.