8.8 fluid change and replace OEM differential cover.

[stryker]

Greetings all marauderers new and veterans ones here, after my successful work on the transmission work done my self with the help of various members here now I have plans to service the 8.8 differential of my CVLX 2004 Panther I have the following parts to do the job but I have some doubts about the performance new differential cover first I will post the pictures and then my question.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160124/f1a271ecedbb73d59aa526f70f8722 c6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160124/46e863b5ad3a0d66eccba39d1dc328 9f.jpg ok my question and doubt is what are those bolts with adjusting nuts outside in middle of the cover ?? . As you can see in picture I have the new cover three qts of gear fluid, the gaskets help and advices needed. Thank you all for the time to read.


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[fastblackmerc]

Greetings all marauderers new and veterans ones here, after my successful work on the transmission work done my self with the help of various members here now I have plans to service the 8.8 differential of my CVLX 2004 Panther I have the following parts to do the job but I have some doubts about the performance new differential cover first I will post the pictures and then my question.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160124/f1a271ecedbb73d59aa526f70f8722 c6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160124/46e863b5ad3a0d66eccba39d1dc328 9f.jpg ok my question and doubt is what are those bolts with adjusting nuts outside in middle of the cover ?? . As you can see in picture I have the new cover three qts of gear fluid, the gaskets help and advices needed. Thank you all for the time to read.


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So you bought a part that you have no idea how it works?!?!?!?!?!?!?

The bolts are to prevent the bearing caps from distorting under stress.
They get tightened to about 5 ft/lbs once they contact the bearing caps. Any tighter and you'll cause damage.

I'd get the bearing stud kit.
No need to use a gasket, just silicone gasket maker - read the directions on the tube.
Put teflon tape on the studs to prevent leaks.
Is your 70/140w gear oil synthetic? If not you'll need friction modifier if your has a limited slip rear.

[Vortech347]

Unless you are running 500+ HP with slicks its a waste of $ to install one. Plus they usually leak/weep where the bearing cap studs are. A better upgrade would be the GT500 one. They are cheap around 75$ have fill and drain holes plus they are designed to be a heat sink.

You'll need friction modifier regardless of the fluid type. I've never seen a track-lok rear end not need it. (Unless the clutch packs were completely hammered/gone.)

[parker]

Don't you have to grind down a section of fins of the GT500 one so they don't hit the sway bar?


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[fastblackmerc]

Unless you are running 500+ HP with slicks its a waste of $ to install one. Plus they usually leak/weep where the bearing cap studs are. A better upgrade would be the GT500 one. They are cheap around 75$ have fill and drain holes plus they are designed to be a heat sink.

You'll need friction modifier regardless of the fluid type. I've never seen a track-lok rear end not need it. (Unless the clutch packs were completely hammered/gone.)

They won't weep around the bearing cap studs if you use teflon tape to seal them as I stated in post #2.

I have Redline 70/140w in mine with no friction modifier, quiet and trouble free for over 70K :eek:

The aftermarket cover I have has both drain and fill holes.

[Turbov6Bryan]

So what is your question?

How to put the fluid in?

I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it in your other thread, buy 2 cans of brake clean to wash away any grime inside the differential once you take it apart

I would also buy a medium sized super strong earth magnet and rtv it to the bottom side of the pumpkin.

Use a razor blade to clean the surface, throw on some RTV and throw away the gasket
Just run a bead around the mating surface and draw RTV circles around the bolt holes, dab a little rtv on the bolts so they don't seep

Once it's bolted in place, it's ready for fluid, no drying time needed.

I'd use black RTV

[Mr. Man]

Is there a break-in differential fluid you should use first, then say after 500 miles change it out with the good stuff?

[Ourobos]

I only use a friction modifier if installing new clutches, some folks use it regardless, even though the old clutches are fully saturated in the modifier..

[fastblackmerc]

Is there a break-in differential fluid you should use first, then say after 500 miles change it out with the good stuff?

No................

[fastblackmerc]

I only use a friction modifier if installing new clutches, some folks use it regardless, even though the old clutches are fully saturated in the modifier..

If he was rebuilding the diff.. yes. OP doesn't say if he's got and open or ls diff.....

[Vortech347]

They won't weep around the bearing cap studs if you use teflon tape to seal them as I stated in post #2.

I have Redline 70/140w in mine with no friction modifier, quiet and trouble free for over 70K :eek:

The aftermarket cover I have has both drain and fill holes.

At 70k you could put maple syrup in and your clutch packs wouldn't care.

[Ourobos]

If he was rebuilding the diff.. yes. OP doesn't say if he's got and open or ls diff.....
They made these cars with open carriers??

[fastblackmerc]

They made these cars with open carriers??

He doesn't have a Marauder.

[stryker]

Correct as fastblackmerc post I don't have a Marauder even I specified in my initial post it is a Ford CrownVictoria LX but is not the HPP ( High Performance Package ) this Panther only have 2.73 gears and as I understand it doesn't have posi-trac. or other performance internal diff. parts, about the gear fluid it is 75W-90 synthetic the differential has a leak and in one side of differential has some kind of hose I post here pictures please take a look and give me advices.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160126/54aeb7c965dea386f2941fee779e7e 11.jpg the aluminum tag with code and gear ratio
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160126/959bc1a504dd160d92c5c21f5defa8 56.jpg picture showing the leakage
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160126/e631367f8daf2cb177bdccf1168da0 b6.jpg The fluid that will be used
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160126/250454c911928a2dd3087782d25217 35.jpg the unknown hose on side of differential.

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[fastblackmerc]

The "leakage" is most likely the cover needs tightening.

The mysterious hose is the vent for the rear end. If there is any pressure that builds up, the vent will disperse it.

[stryker]

Ok Mang now that doubt is clear I taught that that hose was to fill the differential


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[Vortech347]

That hose is also a pain in the ass if your differential is ever slightly overfilled. It will weep out of it for quite a while.

[fastblackmerc]

You tube video on how the change the fluid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIXoRbIIK_o

[stryker]

Thanks for that video I will check it


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[crouse]

Wow. 2.73 gears. I bet it shifts out of first at 60 mph.

[stryker]

I have a doubt about the Motorcraft friction modifier that need to be mixed with the gear fluid when is a posi or traction lock differential But due that I'm going to only replace old fluid with new I thought use it in for prevention my salesperson in the Ford house told me that I can use it optional, the differential in my CVLX 2004 is conventional not Posi or traction locker. Advices please ????


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[RubberCtyRauder]

Waste of money. Your money with no trak loc. don't need it. Your sales person is an idiot to say it is preventive. Preventative of what?

[Ourobos]

With no trac-loc you have no clutch discs in there that need it.. Like mentioned above, skip it.

[stryker]

Ok Marauderers [emoji846][emoji106]


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