Low rpm tick/knock sound

[376shovel]

At idle to about 950 rpm I have a steady tick/knock sound coming from the engine bay that increases with rpm, but goes away around 1000 rpm. What are some of the most common causes of this with this car? Just got this car, and this sound doesnt seem to affect the drivability of the car.

[fastblackmerc]

At idle to about 950 rpm I have a steady tick/knock sound coming from the engine bay that increases with rpm, but goes away around 1000 rpm. What are some of the most common causes of this with this car? Just got this car, and this sound doesnt seem to affect the drivability of the car.

Are you hearing the injectors "ticking"?

Head tick.... probably the left side. Caused by worn valve guides. If you have installed a rear cooling mod this is less likely to happen.

Google "ford dohc ticking"

"This message was broadcast to Ford dealers on/about June, 2004:

"Some 2003-2004 Mustangs with a 4.6l 4-valve engine may exhibit a ticking noise from the cylinder head that can be heard coming from the wheel well area, or when standing next to the vehicle. A light ticking noise is considered normal on this engine. If the noise is determined to be excessive, follow normal diagnostic procedures to determine root cause. Engineering is currently investigating this condition. Monitor oasis for updates."
That was the last anyone has heard from Ford. Another new cylinder head design was just released in January with the following part numbers:

Left side head 2C5Z-6049-BAB
Right side head 2C5Z-6049-CAB"

I know this is for Mustang engines. Ours is a Mustang engine.

Found this also:

"Ah yes, the infamous "tick", the greatest fear of every new '03-04 Cobra owner. Has to do with flawed head casting and coolant flow design on the first revision of the head that causes coolant to dead end in the back of the driver side head and causes the 7 & 8 cylinders to run hotter than the others. The ticking sound occurs when the valve guides and/or seats warp due to running too hot and the ticking itself is the sound of the valves not seating correctly and tapping because of it.

It's only on the DOHC 4v heads for 03-04 and is more prominent on the Cobra and Mach 1 due to their high performance nature and tendency to be driven hard. Either the head can be replaced with a revised casting (usually referred too as "Jan '05" heads) under warranty (or discounted cost if out of warranty) or you can install an after market bypass kit for about $200 that replaces the freeze plug on the driver side head with an elbow and hose and allows the coolant to flow out the back and merge with the exit path that IS on the passenger side head."

[RF Overlord]

I have a steady tick/knock sound Which is it? They're 2 very different sounds...

[MOTOWN]

Are you hearing the injectors "ticking"?

Head tick.... probably the left side. Caused by worn valve guides. If you have installed a rear cooling mod this is less likely to happen.

Google "ford dohc ticking"

"This message was broadcast to Ford dealers on/about June, 2004:

"Some 2003-2004 Mustangs with a 4.6l 4-valve engine may exhibit a ticking noise from the cylinder head that can be heard coming from the wheel well area, or when standing next to the vehicle. A light ticking noise is considered normal on this engine. If the noise is determined to be excessive, follow normal diagnostic procedures to determine root cause. Engineering is currently investigating this condition. Monitor oasis for updates."
That was the last anyone has heard from Ford. Another new cylinder head design was just released in January with the following part numbers:

Left side head 2C5Z-6049-BAB
Right side head 2C5Z-6049-CAB"

I know this is for Mustang engines. Ours is a Mustang engine.

Found this also:

"Ah yes, the infamous "tick", the greatest fear of every new '03-04 Cobra owner. Has to do with flawed head casting and coolant flow design on the first revision of the head that causes coolant to dead end in the back of the driver side head and causes the 7 & 8 cylinders to run hotter than the others. The ticking sound occurs when the valve guides and/or seats warp due to running too hot and the ticking itself is the sound of the valves not seating correctly and tapping because of it.

It's only on the DOHC 4v heads for 03-04 and is more prominent on the Cobra and Mach 1 due to their high performance nature and tendency to be driven hard. Either the head can be replaced with a revised casting (usually referred too as "Jan '05" heads) under warranty (or discounted cost if out of warranty) or you can install an after market bypass kit for about $200 that replaces the freeze plug on the driver side head with an elbow and hose and allows the coolant to flow out the back and merge with the exit path that IS on the passenger side head."

If only owners would take the time to do preventative maintenance and add the cooling mod before the head is damaged this could be avoided.

[fastblackmerc]

Copied from the Modded Mustang forum.

DOHC Head/Intake / Tech

DOHC Cylinder Head 96-04:

B/Swirl Port: (93-98 Lincoln Mark VIII, pre 99 Lincoln Continental, 96-98 Cobra).
The first and only production Ford head with two (square primary, round secondary) intake ports per cylinder, these swirl port castings arrived first in the ’93 Lincoln Mark VIII. Aptly named, due to the way they promoted the incoming air to swirl into the combustion chambers, much like water running down the drain of a once full sink.
Through the years these heads have proven themselves to be excellent high rpm (8000rpm+) performers—mainly in power adder applications--since their tremendous combined intake port cross sectional area and volume (when combined, a full 55cc more than any other 4.6L head design) provide for exceptional power production in the upper regions of the tach. Ironically, it’s those same big, beautiful, twin ports that also prove to be the B head’s largest inherent design flaw. The extra intake port size has a tendency to kill low/mid rpm intake port velocity and power production—hence the use of Ford’s first IMRC (intake manifold runner control) intake on the 96-98 Cobra. By allowing air to reach only one of a B head’s twin intake valves, velocity, and therefore low/mid range torque production was restored in situations under 3250rpm. Later head designs are clearly superior in this regard, which happens to be the one of the most important considerations for those wanting a stout street motor.
There is also some controversy over the single fuel injector/dual intake port setup. Some claim insufficient air/fuel mixing because of the compromised design, however, others contest that the ability to make 1000+rwhp with only minor porting and some form of power adder is testament to the contrary. Whoever you believe, there is little doubt that even after as little as 8,000 miles, carbon and other deposits tend to form on the secondary ports, causing a major airflow impedance, as there is no fuel present to clean them. B heads feature a somewhat small stock exhaust port that really hinders flow in power adder applications. Major gains from porting come with a quality valve job, some pocket and lots of exhaust work. There really isn’t a lot of material to remove from the intake ports themselves.
The Bottom Line: B heads aren’t the best choice for a naturally aspirated street motor. In order to really shine, they need to be paired with a power adder and a short block that can sustain high horsepower and rpm levels. These, the oldest heads, may still be a great choice for full race applications.

C/Tumble Port: (99/01 Cobra, 99 Lincoln Continental).
These second-generation Ford DOHC heads feature a single intake port per cylinder with a smaller cross sectional area that boosts incoming airflow velocity compared to previous years. To understand how C heads earn their “tumble port” designation, try to imagine an Olympic high diver doing repetitive front somersaults before cleanly entering a pool at the bottom. This controlled tumble allows for better air/fuel mixing than in the earlier swirl port heads. The new port design allowed for both substantial increases in midrange torque, and superior horsepower production under 8000rpm when compared with earlier heads. Combustion chamber size is also up 2cc.
The design downfall of C heads, and their larger (5.4L Navigator) cousins, is the relatively flat floor and utter lack of a short turn radius in the throat of the intake port. As such, the incoming air tends to overshoot the valves, making the port think the valves are smaller than they actually are. Some ‘99/’01 Cobra owners reported a “ticking/pinging” noise coming from the drivers side head of their cars. This is due to insufficient cooling around the #6, 7, and 8 cylinders that allowed the valves to overheat and therefore seat improperly. Ford remedied the situation by issuing a TSB to remove and replace the affected heads with a version that featured altered coolant flow.
C heads feature a small exhaust port much like Ford’s earlier swirl port heads, but unlike in B heads, both the intake (throat region) and exhaust ports can see extensive porting work. However, removing too much material from the intake port (mouth region) of a tumble port head will kill velocity very quickly, so make sure your head porter knows what they are doing!
The Bottom Line: C heads remain a viable performance upgrade for those looking for more punch in their street driven 4.6L four valve, without having to pay new part prices for the ’03 DOHC or FR500 versions. The increased midrange torque production and greater overall area under the power curve (when compared to swirl port heads) will enhance the performance of a street/strip driven (8,000rpm and under) modular regardless of application.

Navigator: (98+ Lincoln Navigator)
These 5.4L DOHC heads feature essentially the same intake port design as C heads, however they have a much larger intake port volume than 4.6L castings. Despite the fact these heads feature a relatively small exhaust port, the extra intake port volume could be very beneficial in helping fill a motor of greater displacement—think 5.4L. Expect slightly better midrange torque, and sub 8000rpm horsepower production than even C heads, however the larger intake port size leaves a slim selection of intakes to choose from when utilized on a 4.6L block. Forced induction fans take note, Navigator exhaust ports feature a thicker exhaust divider (while keeping the same overall exhaust port size as B,C, and FR500 heads) that allows coolant to circulate through this vital area. Conversely however, the larger divider can also hurt flow by utilizing additional space in the port.
The real downside to Navigator heads, when used on a 4.6L based motor, is the severe limitation they impose on intake selection. The physically larger 5.4L heads don’t leave a lot of room (when installed on a 4.6L block) between them for an intake plenum to sit—though they do bolt right up. Remember that since Navigator intake ports are essentially clones of those of C heads (just on a larger scale), they too suffer from the same intake port flaws that plague the earlier tumble port design--no short turn or floor in the throat of the intake port.
The Bottom Line: The extra port volume the Navi’s possess could be very beneficial in filling a motor with greater than 281 cubic inches of displacement, or in high rpm N/A street/strip or boosted combinations. Fans of boost should remember the cooled exhaust port divider. Lack of intake availability is the real downfall of this otherwise wonderful casting.

’00 Cobra R: (’00 Cobra R)
Cobra R heads are bar none the best Modular heads available today. However, their extremely scare supply makes them both ridiculously hard to find, and unbelievably expensive.
Initial performance results are understandably hard to obtain, however Al Papitto reports that with only 25hrs of port work into the his new ‘00R heads, they have already eclipsed the performance of his old Navigator heads with months of labor in them. These heads feature larger intake and exhaust ports, +1mm larger exhaust valves, and a dry exhaust port divider. Cobra R heads also require the use of a specific valvetrain not shared with any other modular application due mainly to their overall physically larger size. Al also claims R heads have too much port volume for a street/strip 4.6L application; only consider them with a larger 5.4L motor or a serious 4.6L race application paired with some form of power adder.
The Bottom Line: The best heads you can or can’t find for a Modular four valve motor.
You are as likely to come across a set of these Modular “Godfather” heads as you are to be Brittany Spears’ next uterus masseuse. Though based on their performance abilities, you may want to start saving, just in case…

[fastblackmerc]

FR500: (FRPP)
The sole “aftermarket” offering of the bunch, these high flow heads feature a modified C head intake port combined with the smallest port volume of the group—it seems Ford meant to design these heads for high performance naturally aspirated applications. With the same small standard exhaust port as most other DOHC heads you will still have to remove a decent amount of material from the exhaust ports. Port entrance shape/size remains identical to C heads so finding an intake isn’t hard. These heads are capable of producing power beyond 8000rpm, where earlier versions of the tumble port castings begin to lose their luster. FR500 heads are prone to the #6,7, and 8 cylinder cooling problems as well. Major intake port differences between these and earlier tumble port heads include a raised intake port roof, and a real short turn radius that better directs the incoming air into the combustion chamber; not over the valves like in earlier versions of tumble port heads. These heads also feature a dry divider in the exhaust port, which allows for greater flow, but also higher temperatures. Though improved, the heads can still use some TLC from a quality porter to smooth the roughly finished and newly implemented short turn radius, and the standard exhaust treatment.
The Bottom Line: Outstanding performance heads, with exceptional low and mid lift flow capability. The FR500s only real fault is that the newer ’03 DOHC heads provide near identical performance capability (much better on the exhaust side) paired with a cost differential that is approximately two-thirds less than the FRPP castings. Still a great choice for any application, the heads readily pair to a wide variety of stock and aftermarket intakes.
Stock Intake Choices: ‘99/’01 Cobra, ‘03/’04 Mach 1 & Aviator, ’03 Marauder, FR500.

‘03 DOHC head: (‘03+ Aviator, Marauder, Cobra, Mach 1, Australian Boss 260/290)
Featuring a nearly identical (though 17cc larger in volume due to the fact that they are also used on the much larger Australian Boss 260/290 5.4L DOHCs) intake port to the FR500 head, but combining it with a newly designed, larger and more rectangular exhaust port, these may be the best all around DOHC Ford heads ever manufactured. The improvements made to the intake port shape over previous years include a raised port roof and the introduction of a short radius turn in the throat of the intake port that helps assure the incoming air charge finds the combustion chamber. For those with a forced induction street/strip motor, these are without question the best heads available, and as with the FR500s, they should produce great power up to and beyond 8000rpm regardless of application. ’03 DOHC heads also feature higher quality head castings from the supplier, which is at least partially responsible for the modest increase in flow vs. earlier castings--chalk that up to Ford’s revised quality control standards.
Early runs of the ’03 DOHC head fell victim to the same #6,7,8 cylinder coolant flow problems as earlier tumble port castings. In mid ’03 Ford made a running revision to the ’03 DOHC heads that allowed for more coolant to circulate through the affected areas. A blue mark on the driver’s side head indicates an updated casting, and there are no additional revisions to the ’04 version of this design.
The Bottom Line: On all accounts these are the best modular four valve heads currently available. They combine the exceptional flow of a slightly larger FR500 intake port with a gigantic new rectangular exhaust port.

[fastblackmerc]

In Conclusion
Our panel of experts surmised that aside from the nearly unobtainable ‘00R heads, the ’03 DOHC heads are without question the right choice for your Modular four-valve performance application . The combination of a slightly larger FR500 intake port and modified throat region, coupled with a new larger rectangular exhaust port, and a relatively low price (due to it’s widespread use in the Ford organization) makes the ’03 DOHC casting the current head stud of Ford’s Modular stable.
After porting, the relatively small stock valves/seats become the most serious flow limitation; as such aftermarket replacements should be a serious consideration for those looking to squeeze every last drop of performance from their DOHC heads.

[376shovel]

Which is it? They're 2 very different sounds...


It sounds almost like piston slap. It's not a sharp tick its more dull clunky, but its not aggressively loud like a rod knock or anything. For example I have to turn my radio off or 1 volume mark up in order to hear it from the drivers seat.

I will try to get a video later.

[376shovel]

Btw it has 105k miles and I just bought it. I just bought everything I need to do the rear head cooling setup.

[fastblackmerc]

Btw it has 105k miles and I just bought it. I just bought everything I need to do the rear head cooling setup.

Just so you know....... installing the rear cooling mod will not fix the problem.

[376shovel]

Just so you know....... installing the rear cooling mod will not fix the problem.

I got that. It's more of a cheap insurance deal. Right now I'm not even positive the noise is "problem" category

[fastblackmerc]

:up: :up:

[376shovel]

:up: :up:


What does that mean exactly? As in where would you go from here? Like i said ill get a video of it in an hour or two. Btw off topic u should be receiving my compass tomorrow I believe.

[fastblackmerc]

What does that mean exactly? As in where would you go from here? Like i said ill get a video of it in an hour or two. Btw off topic u should be receiving my compass tomorrow I believe.

:up: :up: means that you know what you are doing................

[junior]

Maybe the cam chain tensioners?

[RF Overlord]

Right now I'm not even positive the noise is "problem" categoryFWIW, when Mary bought "Phoebe" at 87xxx, it had an intermittent kind of "nuk-nuk-nuk" sound at low RPM/idle. Now has almost 200,000 and still has the same sound. Car has been on New Hampshire Motor Speedway and Atlanta Motor Speedway, so I guess the sound is not ominous.

[ctrlraven]

Maybe the cam chain tensioners?
That's what I was thinking especially since it goes away above 1000 rpm.

376, Does it do it when the engine is cold or once the engine is warmed up or doesn't matter?

[camelgrundle]

My first engine had the same noise only at low rpm and once it warmed up. But luckily for me I had a warranty cuz it was a rod knocking. Hope it's the timing chains for your sake.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Does it go away when engine warm?

[376shovel]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DA_x07eWt6AI&ved=0ahUKEwj4q-bVl-nKAhXFkh4KHbGqAfsQtwIIJjAA&usg=AFQjCNHauv89ST7wJg3D0NwC37 I2lN2O6w&sig2=AQHwWYg8OKTM9pUx0ykWrQ

There's the link to the video. The sound is hard to make out especially since in the beginning its high idle. It didn't make the noise as much in this video.

Let me know what you guys think?

[376shovel]

That's what I was thinking especially since it goes away above 1000 rpm.

376, Does it do it when the engine is cold or once the engine is warmed up or doesn't matter?


Doesn't really matter. It does it intermittently but at all temps. I want to say it's a little worse when warm though. It's tough to tell.

[376shovel]

FWIW, when Mary bought "Phoebe" at 87xxx, it had an intermittent kind of "nuk-nuk-nuk" sound at low RPM/idle. Now has almost 200,000 and still has the same sound. Car has been on New Hampshire Motor Speedway and Atlanta Motor Speedway, so I guess the sound is not ominous.

That's exactly what it is lol. Nuk nuk nuk

[camelgrundle]

Does it get worse when it's warm? Nvm already answered. Go get a aftermarke warranty lol sorry man could be a rod. Mine sounded like that at first and got worse but lasted about 10k miles. Don't know how long it would have lasted but my warranty was ending so I took it in and got a new motor for 100 bucks. Good luck and I hope I am wrong.

[376shovel]

Does it get worse when it's warm? Nvm already answered. Go get a aftermarke warranty lol sorry man could be a rod. Mine sounded like that at first and got worse but lasted about 10k miles. Don't know how long it would have lasted but my warranty was ending so I took it in and got a new motor for 100 bucks. Good luck and I hope I am wrong.

I seriously doubt that just because spun bearings are pretty aggressive sounding. U can't even hear this sometimes, and it doesn't get worse with rpm.

[fordnut02]

FWIW, when Mary bought "Phoebe" at 87xxx, it had an intermittent kind of "nuk-nuk-nuk" sound at low RPM/idle. Now has almost 200,000 and still has the same sound. Car has been on New Hampshire Motor Speedway and Atlanta Motor Speedway, so I guess the sound is not ominous.

Mine has this noise after 10 minutes of warm up , but 800 RPM goes away
my stock mufflers have a slight rattle also at Idle ?

[fordnut02]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DA_x07eWt6AI&ved=0ahUKEwj4q-bVl-nKAhXFkh4KHbGqAfsQtwIIJjAA&usg=AFQjCNHauv89ST7wJg3D0NwC37 I2lN2O6w&sig2=AQHwWYg8OKTM9pUx0ykWrQ

There's the link to the video. The sound is hard to make out especially since in the beginning its high idle. It didn't make the noise as much in this video.

Let me know what you guys think?


yup same noise mine has , I have heard this a few times on my mach 1 and it only has 29K on it

[376shovel]

yup same noise mine has , I have heard this a few times on my mach 1 and it only has 29K on it

Ok so I'll just press with the rear head cooling setup and take care if my equipment so it takes care of me. My buddy said his mark viii did the same thing. I dunno, I'm a Chevy guy. I just didn't want to load my tune or do exhaust/intake changes until I got an idea what this was.

[camelgrundle]

I seriously doubt that just because spun bearings are pretty aggressive sounding. U can't even hear this sometimes, and it doesn't get worse with rpm.

Tell that to my first motors scored cylinder wall lol

[lji372]

Fwiw I bought a boosted car a short time ago that sounds similar to this.

800 miles later it's still whining and I'm still smiling daily :D

I get on it from a dead dig and have been up to 100-110.

I would just drive and monitor. Good luck sir....

[lifespeed]

Timing chain tensioner issues are a known problem on this motor, but it is hit or miss whether yours will fail. It can be fairly difficult to diagnose, but the most reliable method is to put chassis ears on the engine in various locations to try and narrow it down.

Of course there are other problems that can cause engine noise, your best bet is to really nail down the location it is coming from using the appropriate listening tool.

[tbone]

After 145k miles, this is the only worn out guide I found when I supercharged. Did not make any noise. One of the likely suspects though.

[lifespeed]

"Tensioner" is a different part than "guide", one applies hydraulic pressure to the other. Plastic tensioners with an O-ring seal eventually fail to seal against the block and stop pressing the guide against the chain. Bad things happen.

The failure rate isn't 100% so there are many comments from people who didn't have trouble. Still a problem, I wouldn't advise leaving the plastic tensioners in the engine during a timing cover removal.

[tbone]

"Tensioner" is a different part than "guide", one applies hydraulic pressure to the other. Plastic tensioners with an O-ring seal eventually fail to seal against the block and stop pressing the guide against the chain. Bad things happen.


Really? Thanks.

[376shovel]

Update:

It's definitely worse when warm. It definitely increases with rpm. I took a big screwdriver and listened in to try to pinpoint where its coming from. I can hear it the best coming from the rear of the engine, passenger side. I can hear it very clear when I put the screwdriver on the rear top freeze plug as well as the back of the valve cover/cam cover.

****.

[Ourobos]

Guides / exhaust valves IMHO

[376shovel]

Well I'm going to go unplug coil at a time to narrow it down. I think its cylinder 4

[Ourobos]

That would go with overheated exhaust valve on the rear due to cooling issues. It's mainly seen on driver side head, I've seen it on passenger side as well. Good luck

[376shovel]

That would go with overheated exhaust valve on the rear due to cooling issues. It's mainly seen on driver side head, I've seen it on passenger side as well. Good luck

Well I'd rather it be a head issue than a bottom end issue.

[Ourobos]

No doubt. Let us know what you find.

[376shovel]

Well I pulled a coil at a time and I really can't tell. The sound of the misfires really made it hard to hear. I would do better with a lift. This week I'm going to my buddy's garage to knock out the filter housing gasket leak, and changing my oil and trans fluid. I'll be able to listen to it better then

[376shovel]

Side note, I loaded in my Marty o tune and took it for a drive. The car is night and day different, and I didn't notice the sound getting worse if I beat on it.

[Ourobos]

Do a compression test while you're at it.

[JimP]

I don't remember where I saw it before however I had read about some improperly torqued cam shaft caps causing similar noises in these 4 cam motors. It was an issue from the factory.

If you do get to the point where you pull the cam covers check this out as well.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Don't know if it will be helpful or if you would fix it yourself,if it is avalve..but here is a write up on how to fix the number 8 valve that was written and done by member A_D_A_M and his marauder. He also got instructions from Zack here.

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2622712#Post2622712

[376shovel]

Don't know if it will be helpful or if you would fix it yourself,if it is avalve..but here is a write up on how to fix the number 8 valve that was written and done by member A_D_A_M and his marauder. He also got instructions from Zack here.

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2622712#Post2622712


Thanks that helps a lot. I'm going to report back with compression numbers in the next couple days. Single digit temps and working with 1 arm slows me down a bit.

[Joe Walsh]

FWIW, when Mary bought "Phoebe" at 87xxx, it had an intermittent kind of "nuk-nuk-nuk" sound at low RPM/idle. Now has almost 200,000 and still has the same sound. Car has been on New Hampshire Motor Speedway and Atlanta Motor Speedway, so I guess the sound is not ominous.



I believe that your Marauder has the Curly/3 Stooges mod!......:D



Sorry for the thread hijack...I couldn't resist.

[Marauderjack]

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

[376shovel]

Im really not gonna worry unless its 15%+ low/high difference. What are you dudes getting for baseline compression numbers? Just curious.

[376shovel]

And the cam torque numbers and sequence? 6-8ft lbs and and center clockwise from center? (Guessing)

[lifespeed]

Im really not gonna worry unless its 15%+ low/high difference. What are you dudes getting for baseline compression numbers? Just curious.

Do problems with the valve seat or guide show up in a compression test? Is a leakdown test any more specific? You want to be pretty sure before a top half rebuild on an old engine. If that is really the only problem these engines run past 200K and are worth the investment. But one hates to waste money and effort.

[376shovel]

Well typically a compression test is done first and if there are abnormalities I can do a leak down to find out what's causing the low compression. One step at a time.

[376shovel]

Update:

Changed the oil, installed new gauges and sending unit, and fixed the oil leak at the housing gasket.

I show 14 psi hot idle at 30 psi around 1500 rpm.

Haven't heard the tick on the drive back from the shop.

[376shovel]

https://youtu.be/KvH2_RZOdgg

Here is a pretty good video of the motor at a hot idle. Cold compression was 200-215 psi. I plan on doing a leakdown test but man does it seem like it's loudest at the bellhousing...

[The_Dude]

My wife bought a Terminator with 9k miles on it, but it had a tick (very similar to yours BTW). We assumed it was the lifter tick, so we bought a set of 2005 heads and had them installed. Unfortunately, the tick was still there. We had the engine completely torn down and found a bad wrist pin was causing it. Since it was apart anyway, the engine was completely freshened with new pistons, connecting rods, etc. Needless to say, we're way upside down in this car now, but it is a 9k mile Mystichrome Cobra.

[376shovel]

Yeah I used a stethoscope on it and damned if it isn't loudest on #8 exhaust header at the head. Also the egr tube on the header is loud too. Probably that crappy cylinder head design that got me. Damnit. I hear it's easier to put an engine in vs putting another head on. I can source an engine or cylinder head from an aviator locally. I'll do a leakdown before I go buying either.