Carfixers alignment specs

[rayjay]

Greetings all, been a while. I can not find the sticky for Carfixers Alignment specs. My paper copy is old to the point it can not be read. My front end is in bad shape and its gonna cost $$$ to fix. It will need realignment, but the post's I have found may be confusing to the tech doing the work. Can someone point me to sticky or the specs that a monkey could read?

Thanks!

This has been a very $$$ week for cars. Since Saturday afternoon I have purchased a new SUV, yesterday purchased a 2009 GM Premium for the daughter near perfect, which she is totally unaware of so it will be a huge surprise and now the mega repairs on my 04 DTR. My wallet is on the floor begging for mercy. :bigcry: All I'll say is I should have listened 6 yrs ago when several on here told me not to buy the Lincoln LS8 I eventually bought. That car is on its way to the scrap yard, its not even close to cost effective to do what has to be done for it to be safe on the highway. I'm literally sick about it. :puke: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2:

[03Merc]

You don't need specs, just a good alignment guy and machine...alignment is something You'll always have to check/fix. It won't stay perfect forever.


#1618 of 3214

[BAD MERC]

Claude's specs are markedly different than Marquis/Victoria alignment measurements. There's a difference and I don't have the specs but someone here will post them.

[O's Fan Rich]

You don't need specs, just a good alignment guy and machine...alignment is something You'll always have to check/fix. It won't stay perfect forever.


#1618 of 3214

As long as they set it up it to the original MM specs.

[ctrlraven]

Greetings all, been a while. I can not find the sticky for Carfixers Alignment specs. My paper copy is old to the point it can not be read. My front end is in bad shape and its gonna cost $$$ to fix. It will need realignment, but the post's I have found may be confusing to the tech doing the work. Can someone point me to sticky or the specs that a monkey could read?

Thanks!

This has been a very $$$ week for cars. Since Saturday afternoon I have purchased a new SUV, yesterday purchased a 2009 GM Premium for the daughter near perfect, which she is totally unaware of so it will be a huge surprise and now the mega repairs on my 04 DTR. My wallet is on the floor begging for mercy. :bigcry: All I'll say is I should have listened 6 yrs ago when several on here told me not to buy the Lincoln LS8 I eventually bought. That car is on its way to the scrap yard, its not even close to cost effective to do what has to be done for it to be safe on the highway. I'm literally sick about it. :puke: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2:

It's under the Reviews > Suspension > Wheels & Alignment
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/reviews/showproduct.php/product/34/sort/2/cat/19/page/1

Don't forget to the camber alignment bolts http://adtr.net/product/ford-crown-victoria/spc-performance-alignment-bolts/

[MOTOWN]

As long as they set it up it to the original MM specs.

Sure if you like wearing out the inside edges of your tires down to the steel belts the original /factory specs are terrible.

[Zack]

I've had 6 Marauders, aligned to factory specs and not one has ever had inner tire wear.

[MOTOWN]

I've had 6 Marauders, aligned to factory specs and not one has ever had inner tire wear.

Lucky you! Mines wore my first set of fronts down to the steel belts on the inner tires when the car was brand new.

[daddyusmaximus]

I have read about this "carfixer" specs from time to time here and never could find out what it was. Is it mostly for those who are modifying their cars for better performance, or are the factory specs that bad for tires. Having only had my car for 2 months, I haven't noticed a difference, nor do I even know to what spec it is aligned. Tires look fine and it handles fine, but I will be putting a pricey new set of wheels and tires on it come spring and I want it as good as I can get it.

[MOTOWN]

It was a hit or miss issue with Marauders alignment specs , some went thru front tires with excessive inner tire wear, others didn't experience the issue.

[1Marauder]

It's under the Reviews > Suspension > Wheels & Alignment
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/reviews/showproduct.php/product/34/sort/2/cat/19/page/1

Don't forget to the camber alignment bolts http://adtr.net/product/ford-crown-victoria/spc-performance-alignment-bolts/

And having just done it, BUY the SBC grinder tool for your mechanic as well. He will need it.

Print out all of the directions, and send them the above link in advance. My guy watched the video twice, read the directions, and it was a breeze.

The Carfixer alignment specs are very different than stock, and while the car May not actually "handle better" it will drive better, and not wear the inner front tires. The alignment guy asked me three times if this is what I wanted as it is not the "stock recommended alignment".

I said yes every time, and love it set up this way.

[ctrlraven]

If you have factory specs and drive your car more than 10k miles a year, you will notice the excessive inner tire wear.

I went through two sets of front tires, had an alignment done to car fixer's specs and no more inner tire wear.

[Gryphonzus]

I have Four Marauders and all four have had inner tire wear down to the cord. The rest of the tire was still good. All four have carfixers specs now and they all wear good and drive better too. One has had the front lowered so I had to do the SBC camber mod. Two are fine and have enough adjustment to get it aligned. The fourth I just got only has 36,000 miles and it needs the SBC mod done to it because it does not have enough play in it. So it is a roll of the dice to know if you need The SBC mod or not. I went ahead and purchased four kits just in case and will have two left. Good luck!

[1Marauder]

I have Four Marauders and all four have had inner tire wear down to the cord. The rest of the tire was still good. All four have carfixers specs now and they all wear good and drive better too. One has had the front lowered so I had to do the SBC camber mod. Two are fine and have enough adjustment to get it aligned. The fourth I just got only has 36,000 miles and it needs the SBC mod done to it because it does not have enough play in it. So it is a roll of the dice to know if you need The SBC mod or not. I went ahead and purchased four kits just in case and will have two left. Good luck!

His 4 + 2. Some cars have enough play to use fixer specs with the camber bolts and some do not. For future alignment needs though, I do reccomend having them, and the grinder bit tool, ready to go.

[daddyusmaximus]

What is this "SBC mod" and SBC grinder tool. I got no results searching it here, and a tool for doing valve jobs when I searched google.

[fastblackmerc]

What is this "SBC mod" and SBC grinder tool. I got no results searching it here, and a tool for doing valve jobs when I searched google.

There is no SPC mod............
You get SPC camber bolts http://www.spcalignment.com/spc-performance
and the SPC tool to elongate the slots.
It's all on the website.

[fastblackmerc]

BTW. Some don't need the extra adjustment provided by the SPC kit, usually the guys that have lowered the MM front end by cutting coils have the problem.

I'm just going to replace mine with a Moog kit because the head of the bolt is getting rounded off.

[rayjay]

OK, thanks guys. I have had the car set to Claude's original specs for years. The OEM spec from the factory tore the crap out of the original tires in 12,000 miles, IIRC, it was 12 years ago. I know they never had to do any grinding on the car. Unfortunately the guy that had done any alignments I had done to the car is in CNY and I'm here in Myrtle Beach. Sounds like about the only thing that has not failed on the front suspension are the shocks, aftermarket bar and the rack. PITA because I barely drive it 4k a year now. I'm still under a 100k, but not for long. Its at Myrtle beach Ford who were highly recommended by another member here from NC. With axle seals I'm looking at a $2,300 bill. Normally that means goodbye, but Beep says the car stays and I just bought two cars since last Saturday... :violin:

[lifespeed]

Sounds like about the only thing that has not failed on the front suspension are the shocks, aftermarket bar and the rack. PITA because I barely drive it 4k a year now. I'm still under a 100k, but not for long. Its at Myrtle beach Ford who were highly recommended by another member here from NC.

Oh, the front shocks have failed alright. No such thing as a shock that lasts 100K miles.

[Sactown]

I've had 6 Marauders, aligned to factory specs and not one has ever had inner tire wear.

My one MM has been fine with regular alignment as well

[O's Fan Rich]

Sure if you like wearing out the inside edges of your tires down to the steel belts the original /factory specs are terrible.

yeah forgot to add the don't....
if you'd look at my posts from 2003 I'm certain you'd find a thread I started on replacing tires at just under 13k...

[rayjay]

yeah forgot to add the don't....
if you'd look at my posts from 2003 I'm certain you'd find a thread I started on replacing tires at just under 13k...

I believe it, because I went out and looked at my tires when this 1st came up back then and it was happening to mine too. The insides of both tires were wearing out and I put new ones on at like 15K miles. I remember being really PO'd that they didn't last very long.

With the Carfixer spec'd alignment my tires have worn like iron. I should probably replace my fronts because of age, not mileage. I think they have maybe 35K on them? I don't really know. They would easily pass NYS inspection. They are the OEM BFGs too.

[lifespeed]

"regular" or "factory" alignment has no meaning. An alignment is toe, camber and caster. These are quantitive measured values, one cannot draw any conclusions without numbers.

I like -0.7 camber, 0 toe and -6 to 6.5 caster (matched side to side). "factory" is a window as wide as a barn door.

[RubberCtyRauder]

It's SPC not SBC. Most only need it if lowering front springs . The calmed bolts are sold at summit racing, tirerack , SPC but are more expensive

[rayjay]

Thank you Birdman! Good to see you are still around with some of the "old" gang too.

Zach, how's the voting going on your car at the auto show? :coolman: as all hell!

[8UWITH6]

Okay. This topic again. ZERO the toe angle. Make camber as positive as possible. This will eliminate inner edge wear on these cars.

Example. Just cut a coil on the wife's car 2 weeks ago because it was a 4x4. Put it up on the alignment rack at work. LF camber -1.6 degrees, RF camber -1.4 degrees, toe over a degree negative because the car was lowered. I knocked the "hats" off of the factory camber bolts. I brought the toe angle in closer to ZERO. I twisted the FACTORY camber bolts to adjust camber as positive as possible. LF camber -.4 degrees after, RF -.3 degrees after, ZERO toe. Backed it off the rack happy motoring............

Aaaaaaand the wife didn't notice it for over a week ;)

[fastblackmerc]

It's SPC not SBC. Most only need it if lowering front springs . The calmed bolts are sold at summit racing, tirerack , SPC but are more expensive

Good catch! :up:

[MOTOWN]

It's SPC not SBC. Most only need it if lowering front springs . The calmed bolts are sold at summit racing, tirerack , SPC but are more expensive

Yeah now all we have to do is continue to calm down those spc bolts!:flamer:

[Bluerauder]

Greetings all, been a while. I can not find the sticky for Carfixers Alignment specs. Can someone point me to sticky or the specs that a monkey could read?

Here is what I found from the past postings ....


I have only ever seen the Camber spec at 0 to - 0.3 degrees. That's the one that I have written down on a 3" x 5" card and put in my owner's manual.

Here is the NOTE for the asterisk in "carfixer's alignment" ....

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street.

Maybe MCM went more aggressive on the cornering. :dunno: Probably helps in avoiding those Detroit potholes. ;)

... or the full post here >>>>> http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=763634&postcount=7


I've had 6 Marauders, aligned to factory specs and not one has ever had inner tire wear.

I am on my 3rd set of front tires and average 36K miles on them. About 23K on the current set. The car has never had an alignment since I bought it more than 12 years ago. Never had a problem with inner tire wear and the BFG g-Force KDWS wear evenly across the width of the tire. Maybe I am just one of the lucky ones. Of course, I don't jump curbs and try to avoid potholes .... but I do corner pretty hard. No problem !! The car was a Daily Driver until 2012 with about 15K miles per year. Not so much since I picked up the Taurus SHO in February 2012.


If you have factory specs and drive your car more than 10k miles a year, you will notice the excessive inner tire wear.

I went through two sets of front tires, had an alignment done to car fixer's specs and no more inner tire wear.

Be really careful when asking for the Factory Specs since most will pull up the Alignment Specs on a Grand Marquis. These ARE NOT the same as those for the Marauder. Make sure that they use the Marauder Specific specs.

[LOWBUCKMM]

I have only had one alignment. And only because I put new tires on it. Put to factory specs 30k on the fronts and still wearing evenly. Just my .02

[lifespeed]

Okay. This topic again. ZERO the toe angle. Make camber as positive as possible. This will eliminate inner edge wear on these cars.

It isn't camber that wears the inner edge, it is toe out. Negative camber (within reason) does not wear the tires and improves cornering grip. I recommend -0.7 degrees. I have been through several sets of front tires aligned this way, all lasted 30K miles or more without uneven wear.

[8UWITH6]

It isn't camber that wears the inner edge, it is toe out. Negative camber (within reason) does not wear the tires and improves cornering grip. I recommend -0.7 degrees. I have been through several sets of front tires aligned this way, all lasted 30K miles or more without uneven wear.


I know brotato chip. Dont make this more difficult than it needs to be. My statement is correct.

[lifespeed]

I know brotato chip. Dont make this more difficult than it needs to be. My statement is correct.

Difficult? I guess there are those who try to get the most out of their rides, and those who just ride.

[8UWITH6]

OP was trying to make the carfixers alignment specs for the alignment tech less confusing/difficult/complicated, etc. He doesnt give 2 poops about what camber angle that is prefered for cornering feel and what caster angles do for high speed stability. He wanted the car aligned properly to carfixer specs. Zero the gosh dang toe and lets be honest most alignment techs wont touch the camber unless the customer has a concern. Set the toe and go just like you said earlier toe wears the tires. If you want to discuss getting the most out of your alignment we should start a new thread.

[rayjay]

Thanks all. I dropped the specs off to the guy working on my car. He was all pissed off because it was a PITA with everything rusted from living in the NYS snowbelt from 04-2012. Had to replace the left axle too, it was quite worn. Did not expect that. I cringe if the phone rings and the readout says Myrtle Beach Ford. Pick it up this afternoon. FWIW he was skeptical of the alignment specs. He just tossed them on his tool tray without looking at them. Jeesh sorry the car is here now to bother you. Must be one of the Off brothers, just not sure which one. I'll see how it handles with a run on the closest thing we have to a interstate here. :rolleyes: for what this is costing me it better be right. Wish i could have taken it backto Nillis Ford in Hamilton, NY to get done right with no trepidation's and a hell of a lot cheaper too.

[lifespeed]

FWIW he was skeptical of the alignment specs. He just tossed them on his tool tray without looking at them. Jeesh sorry the car is here now to bother you. Must be one of the Off brothers, just not sure which one.

If I get that kind of reaction I walk. My car, my money, there are still a few good automotive shops around. And if one axle is bad the other isn't far behind.

[rayjay]

If I get that kind of reaction I walk. My car, my money, there are still a few good automotive shops around. And if one axle is bad the other isn't far behind.

I believe the guy was just PO'd that everything was rusted up due to where it lived most of its life. All cars that are actually driven in CNY look like that. This dealer was recommended by a Member here who works for Corporate Ford. They pulled both axles and it is just the left that was bad, looked for myself.

[justbob]

I have never seen a case of two bad axles. It would make good sense, but it never happens. I have finally donated the last of all my spares from over the years. Every last one was perfect even though it's twin at birth died a deeply grooved death.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[lifespeed]

The axle rebuild at 95K miles I did had wear grooves in both sides. They weren't identical, but neither was acceptable for reuse.

[babbage]

Hey Ray! I hope its good when you go to get it. Make sure they put the thick gear oil back in!

Carfixers Specs - (yes repost)

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees +or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees +or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)

That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO. All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5.0-6.5 degrees positive with 0.3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street.

FLAGS (Metal Tabs) The flags are how the factory ensures the front end is aligned properly. To do an alignment you MUST remove the flags so you can access the bolt heads. A hammer/chisel or pry bar or cutoff wheel can easily remove the metal tag/flags

[rayjay]

Only the one axle needed to be replaced. The car seems nice and solid now on the highway. They did warn me that on the test drive they noticed that the torque converter maybe starting to go. I do not feel anything, so... He quoted me 5.5hrs to replace the TC. I told him I would go with an aftermarket unit if it needs replacement. Ya ya ya I know you won't warrant it. Just warrant your install is all I would ask. I really don't drive the car hard so I don't know why the TC would be starting to fail. ???

Any ideas on where to get a new TC, do I need to retune after its put in, what stall should I use and are they in the ballpark with the 5.5hrs to do the replacement? If it needs it. :rolleyes:

[fastblackmerc]

Only the one axle needed to be replaced. The car seems nice and solid now on the highway. They did warn me that on the test drive they noticed that the torque converter maybe starting to go. I do not feel anything, so... He quoted me 5.5hrs to replace the TC. I told him I would go with an aftermarket unit if it needs replacement. Ya ya ya I know you won't warrant it. Just warrant your install is all I would ask. I really don't drive the car hard so I don't know why the TC would be starting to fail. ???

Any ideas on where to get a new TC, do I need to retune after its put in, what stall should I use and are they in the ballpark with the 5.5hrs to do the replacement? If it needs it. :rolleyes:

Time sounds right. Contact Precision Industries and talk to them about what you want and they will recommend a TC.

http://www.converter.com/

[babbage]

Only the one axle needed to be replaced. The car seems nice and solid now on the highway. They did warn me that on the test drive they noticed that the torque converter maybe starting to go. I do not feel anything, so... He quoted me 5.5hrs to replace the TC. I told him I would go with an aftermarket unit if it needs replacement. Ya ya ya I know you won't warrant it. Just warrant your install is all I would ask. I really don't drive the car hard so I don't know why the TC would be starting to fail. ???

Any ideas on where to get a new TC, do I need to retune after its put in, what stall should I use and are they in the ballpark with the 5.5hrs to do the replacement? If it needs it. :rolleyes:

I like Circle D. A bit spendy. http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-61-ford-258mm-pro-ii-4r70w-torque-converter.aspx

Perhaps the Ford tech does not realize that you have 4.10 gears installed, and he thinks your converter is slipping.