Metco or Sparta control arms

[Red Rum]

I am really undecided on which ones to get. Metco upper and lower control arms. And there Watts link. Or the Sparta upper and lower control arms. And there watts link. I like the Sparta because they have powder coat colors option. So I am leaning towards them. Plus there here in Long Island NY. What do you all think ?

[Mebot]

Buy em both and put Sparta control arm on one side and the Metco on the other

Can't stop the signal...

[Red Rum]

That doesn't sound like a bad idea Mebot. How about I buy them both. And give you a set cup cake.

[MOTOWN]

Go with the Metcos , they are aluminum , lightweight, and will not rust.

[Red Rum]

Thank you MOTOWN. I really appreciate it. That is what I think we are here for. To give advice. From time to time. Not to be Internet trolls.

[hotford]

I recently just went through this....and ended up with the metco's.....go through jegs or summit for the better pricing......if you go with metco's...

[Red Rum]

That is cool HotFord.

[Mebot]

That doesn't sound like a bad idea Mebot. How about I buy them both. And give you a set cup cake.
I already have Sparta control arms.

Can't stop the signal...

[Mr. Man]

Both are top shelf. Can't go wrong with either.

[parker]

I am really undecided on which ones to get. Metco upper and lower control arms. And there Watts link. Or the Sparta upper and lower control arms. And there watts link. I like the Sparta because they have powder coat colors option. So I am leaning towards them. Plus there here in Long Island NY. What do you all think ?


You can also look at Heinous, I believe they are made by Metco, but with a different look.

[fastblackmerc]

I have Sparta control arms and Watts link. You really can't see either of them but to ride & handling quality is so so so much better..... you'd think you have a new car.

[Red Rum]

Thank alot Mr Man.

[Red Rum]

Parker I saw those. Chris at ADTR. Com showed me them. There like Swiss cheese. Meaning they have holes in them. Look great but not my style bud.

[parker]

Parker I saw those. Chris at ADTR. Com showed me them. There like Swiss cheese. Meaning they have holes in them. Look great but not my style bud.


Yea I think they look good, but the Metco look stronger to me. I was just throwing out another option.

[Red Rum]

Fastblackmerc so you have Sparta's. And they work great. I am thinking about getting them in powder coated Red Blue or there silver. They say looks like chrome. For my 04 DTR.

[Red Rum]

Yea they door look stronger Parker. The Metco one's.

[BAD MERC]

I just installed the Heinous arms. The difference in driving feel is beyond comparison. It's not a little difference. It's HUGE. I think any aftermarket kit will be better than the stuff they come with. You can plant the power with NO driveline flex and snappy upshifts will tear your head off if the tires don't break loose on upshifts.

[larryo340]

I bought the Sparta arms a few months ago but I haven't had the chance to put them in yet. I'm planning on putting them on after I take the snow tires off.

[SpartaPerformance]

Just to note, our are the only ones that can handle 700RWHP on a full weight Panther. Don't know what your power plans are but you're covered with us.

[MOTOWN]

Just to note, our are the only ones that can handle 700RWHP on a full weight Panther. Don't know what your power plans are but you're covered with us.

Yeah your right the Metcos only handle 761 @ da wheels! :rolleyes:

[1Marauder]

They are so close in finished ride quality, I'd buy the least expensive set you can find on sale.

I bought the Sparta because they are a supporter here (and this was important to me), and because I found them almost $100 less.

I too like the powder coated color (black for me) etc.

My installer said he never seen "after market" customer brought parts that had such high quality finish, and fit so much better than the stock.

You can NOT go wrong either way -- so go with what you LIKE, and if that is the color choice, then you are making a great choice for you. AND if you can find them on sale-- even better! Sparta did have a 5% code or something previously.

FastBlackMerc and Mr Man said it best above------"You can't see them, they are both SOOO much better than stock, and both are top shelf, you can't go wrong".... Distilled down; pick the ones you like the best, be it look, feel, color, or price.

I can promise that you will be amazed by the change. My son and I felt the difference before the car was started, when we entered the car and closed the doors. Car felt like a bank vault and did not shimmy nor sway nor move at all with 400lbs seated and my son (slamming) and I closing both doors. It was amazing.

[1Marauder]

PS <Mebot got called a troll... HAHAHAHAHA

[fairlane347]

I just finishing putting Metco in mine today. Great qaulity, fit good. Have not driven yet. Jegs racing was the cheapset price with free shipping.

[MOTOWN]

I just finishing putting Metco in mine today. Great qaulity, fit good. Have not driven yet. Jegs racing was the cheapset price with free shipping.

Oh your in for a treat! :banana2:

[Blown3.8]

The Sparta's are lighter than the Metco's. I like the delrin bushings in the spartas better than the poly in the metcos.

[RKHiPerformance]

As a fellow manufacturer, we respect any company that designs and manufactures their own products, and I am not here to boast that Metco control arms are better than any other brand. I simply thought it would be appropriate to post some details about our products for the sake of the comparisons being made.

We do not publish an officially-rated HP threshold for our control arms, but I can say that in all of our years of production we have never, ever had a control arm failure. And many of our suspension parts are used on very high HP, full-weight vehicles. Some of these vehicles are owned by members of this board.
The bushings we use in our control arms are the latest graphite-infused polyurethane. They are made in the USA to our specifications, and we guarantee them forever. The body of each control arm is CNC-machined using state-of-the-art equipment, which means that critical dimensions like the width of the arms at the mounting points and the center-to-center lengths are exactly to specification. We use only certified 6061 aluminum, and the solid design of our arms offers strength-vs-weight benefits that few other designs can match. As most of you know, our design, manufacturing, and assembly all takes place at our facility in Anderson, SC.

For more extreme competition-oriented applications, like those using slicks with a transbrake, we can fit (or retrofit) the control arms with a low-friction, near-zero deflection composite bushing combination that has proven indestructible and yet still offers a very long service life.


To be considerate to the owners of the board (our vendor status is pending), this will be my only post in this thread. I can be reached via phone or email if anyone has any questions.

Thanks very much,
Rick
Metco Motorsports
864.332.5929
rick@metcomotorsports.com (rick@metcomotorsports.com)

[martyo]

As a fellow manufacturer, we respect any company that designs and manufactures their own products, and I am not here to boast that Metco control arms are better than any other brand. I simply thought it would be appropriate to post some details about our products for the sake of the comparisons being made.

We do not publish an officially-rated HP threshold for our control arms, but I can say that in all of our years of production we have never, ever had a control arm failure. And many of our suspension parts are used on very high HP, full-weight vehicles. Some of these vehicles are owned by members of this board.
The bushings we use in our control arms are the latest graphite-infused polyurethane. They are made in the USA to our specifications, and we guarantee them forever. The body of each control arm is CNC-machined using state-of-the-art equipment, which means that critical dimensions like the width of the arms at the mounting points and the center-to-center lengths are exactly to specification. We use only certified 6061 aluminum, and the solid design of our arms offers strength-vs-weight benefits that few other designs can match. As most of you know, our design, manufacturing, and assembly all takes place at our facility in Anderson, SC.

For more extreme competition-oriented applications, like those using slicks with a transbrake, we can fit (or retrofit) the control arms with a low-friction, near-zero deflection composite bushing combination that has proven indestructible and yet still offers a very long service life.


To be considerate to the owners of the board (our vendor status is pending), this will be my only post in this thread. I can be reached via phone or email if anyone has any questions.

Thanks very much,
Rick
Metco Motorsports
864.332.5929
rick@metcomotorsports.com (rick@metcomotorsports.com)


Rick, you forgot to mention that your arms were designed years ago using my race car as a template. We have repeatedly tossed 1,000 rwhp blasts at them with zero issues.

Hope you guys are well!!

[Baconbit]

As a fellow manufacturer, we respect any company that designs and manufactures their own products, and I am not here to boast that Metco control arms are better than any other brand. I simply thought it would be appropriate to post some details about our products for the sake of the comparisons being made.

We do not publish an officially-rated HP threshold for our control arms, but I can say that in all of our years of production we have never, ever had a control arm failure. And many of our suspension parts are used on very high HP, full-weight vehicles. Some of these vehicles are owned by members of this board.
The bushings we use in our control arms are the latest graphite-infused polyurethane. They are made in the USA to our specifications, and we guarantee them forever. The body of each control arm is CNC-machined using state-of-the-art equipment, which means that critical dimensions like the width of the arms at the mounting points and the center-to-center lengths are exactly to specification. We use only certified 6061 aluminum, and the solid design of our arms offers strength-vs-weight benefits that few other designs can match. As most of you know, our design, manufacturing, and assembly all takes place at our facility in Anderson, SC.

For more extreme competition-oriented applications, like those using slicks with a transbrake, we can fit (or retrofit) the control arms with a low-friction, near-zero deflection composite bushing combination that has proven indestructible and yet still offers a very long service life.


To be considerate to the owners of the board (our vendor status is pending), this will be my only post in this thread. I can be reached via phone or email if anyone has any questions.

Thanks very much,
Rick
Metco Motorsports
864.332.5929
rick@metcomotorsports.com (rick@metcomotorsports.com)



I'm looking to buy any brand of control arms...any sales or discounts in our future Rick?

[Red Rum]

Thank you all for your input. Knowledge and experience on the Subject on hand.
I am humble and really appreciate it. I pull the trigger today on a set of Sparta Preformance upper and lowers. And there WATTS LINK ARMS. In there Silver powder coating. They say looks like Chrome. So now waiting on them to get here. Ans install them. Along with a 8.8 rear end cover I bought today too. Throw in some Royal Purple gear oil with A additive.

[Blackened300a]

My car is running the prototype set of Sparta control arms for the last 8 years and over 30K miles. No wear, still tight and no noise after plenty of track runs as well NA and blown. Quality product.

[Red Rum]

Blackend300a that is nice too know. I just bought a set off Sparta Preformance upper and lower control arms. And there watts link arms. In the Silver powder coat they say looks chrome. Since I am getting a ADTR Vortech Supercharger kit Stage 2. Going to beef up all the suspension in the rear. Also bought a 8.8 rearend cover. And a set of Mickey Thompson Drag radials.

[Blackened300a]

They are more of a silver then a chrome, I have the silver on my car. See attachment.

[Mebot]

Blackend300a that is nice too know. I just bought a set off Sparta Preformance upper and lower control arms. And there watts link arms. In the Silver powder coat they say looks chrome. Since I am getting a ADTR Vortech Supercharger kit Stage 2. Going to beef up all the suspension in the rear. Also bought a 8.8 rearend cover. And a set of Mickey Thompson Drag radials.
Make sure to line up the new Watts link with the old ones off your car. There is a correct way to install the links (left to right) and if they are installed incorrectly, you're ride height adjustor will be out of wack.

Can't stop the signal...

[MMcactusflower]

I would like to get a set of control arms..either sparta or metco...and the watts link setup as well...wondering how difficult the control arms are to install...driveway weekend job or my mechanic?
And the watts link...same deal?

[MOTOWN]

I would like to get a set of control arms..either sparta or metco...and the watts link setup as well...wondering how difficult the control arms are to install...driveway weekend job or my mechanic?
And the watts link...same deal?

Easy peasy! Remove, and replace.....done

[lji372]

Just put heinous on whipple.

Look good, waiting for weather to break to try out.

http://adtr.net/product/ford-crown-victoria/heinous-billet-upper-and-lower-control-arms-98-whales/

[Mr. Man]

I would like to get a set of control arms..either sparta or metco...and the watts link setup as well...wondering how difficult the control arms are to install...driveway weekend job or my mechanic?
And the watts link...same deal?
CA's are pretty easy. Watt's Link while not a mind bender can be a PITA if you don't have access to a lift. The differential stud bolt is cranked to like 200ftlbs and can be a toughy to break loose. You also need to be gentle with the ride height sensor nuts as they can break if they are seized. Start by shooting all the nuts and bolts with some rust penetrate a few days in advance if you can. Might make the job a wee bit easier. Good Luck :)

[fastblackmerc]

Control arms are easy, Watts link is a PITA as Mr. Man noted. To get the nut off, biggest breaker bar you can find, length of pipe over the handle and an impact socket. Use your feet on the breaker bar / pipe while holding on to the chassis. It can be done in a driveway, on your back with car on jackstands.

[03Merc]

Control arms are easy, Watts link is a PITA as Mr. Man noted. To get the nut off, biggest breaker bar you can find, length of pipe over the handle and an impact socket. Use your feet on the breaker bar / pipe while holding on to the chassis. It can be done in a driveway, on your back with car on jackstands.



I couldn't get that damn nut off that bolt. I ended up getting them both outta the rear end housing together and just went n got a new nut and bolt from Ford. PITA for sure.

[03Merc]

Do they sell replacement bushings for the Metco's does anyone know?


#1618 of 3214

[RocketCouch]

Yes Metco sells replacements for everything. Hit them up, they can help you

[MMcactusflower]

Thanks to all for some really helpful information here...

[fastblackmerc]

Do they sell replacement bushings for the Metco's does anyone know?


#1618 of 3214

Have you checked with Metco?

[03Merc]

Have you checked with Metco?



They have been closed for the past few days for race event. I'm waiting to hear back from them...

[RKHiPerformance]

They have been closed for the past few days for race event. I'm waiting to hear back from them...

Because we manufacture all of our products, anything you may need can be offered as a service part. We are back in the shop now and can be reached via phone or email:

E: rick@metcomotorsports.com
P: 864.332.5929

Thanks very much,
Rick
Metco Motorsports

[ajcook]

I've been suffering with a noticeable clunk (axle wrap) during quick braking and acceleration. I'm pretty sure it's the control arm bushings. I just ordered a set of Metco control arms through Hans at Dean Performance. I am anxious to put them on after reading through this thread.

[Rick@Metco]

I've been suffering with a noticeable clunk (axle wrap) during quick braking and acceleration. I'm pretty sure it's the control arm bushings. I just ordered a set of Metco control arms through Hans at Dean Performance. I am anxious to put them on after reading through this thread.

:beer:

We'll get 'em shipped!

[ByronRACE]

I think it's weird that you guys care so much about the color and aesthetics of control arms. Did you paint your springs too? How about the driveshaft? I always wanted a barber pole driveshaft paint job. I have enough fun just keeping my fleet running; I can't imagine taking time for such things.

[1Marauder]

Everyone's taste is different. I like all my add on mods to look like it came that way. Black women r silver control arms and watts link, black big brake kits. When I Vortech it will be the ceramic black out edition... Except for Lowndex's absolutely SICK carbon fiber everything under the hood-- I like mine plain Jane

Gotta say, I really like the barber shop spring paint job though

[Svashtar]

I put Metco CA's on my car in July 2004, barely 3 weeks after I bought it. Couldn't believe how much it firmed up cornering and handling.

I would grease them infrequently, mostly if I heard any squeaking, and the bushings have held up pretty well. The other day I saw one was slightly cracked and called Metco to buy replacements.

Rick told me that if I could provide the original receipt he'd send the newer graphite poly bushings out free of charge!

Couldn't believe I still had it, but had the receipt filed away, and the new bushings are on the way.

Outstanding customer service from Metco! [emoji1531]

I'm considering a Watts link, but I don't see how I could get it installed on the driveway without putting the car up really high on stands, so need to think about that some more. The car is fairly rigid now, but I agree the OEM link is pretty cheesy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fastblackmerc]

I'm considering a Watts link, but I don't see how I could get it installed on the driveway without putting the car up really high on stands, so need to think about that some more. The car is fairly rigid now, but I agree the OEM link is pretty cheesy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I installed the Watts link on my back on the driveway. You just need a long bar for leverage when removing or tightening the nut.

[Svashtar]

I installed the Watts link on my back on the driveway. You just need a long bar for leverage when removing or tightening the nut.


OK thanks, got one of those. I'll give it a try. Does the nut have to be torqued when going back on, or just tight?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rick@Metco]

...Rick told me that if I could provide the original receipt he'd send the newer graphite poly bushings out free of charge!





Just to add to this statement...The bushings we've used since the very beginning in all of our suspension components are high-content graphite/poly, made to our specifications by Energy Suspension. We have such confidence in these bushings that we will guarantee them forever to the original purchaser, upon receipt of a copy of the original invoice.


In my conversation with Norm, I mentioned that polyurethane bushing technology has come a long way since the brittle, red, squeaky poly we remember from years ago. As a suspension parts manufacturer, we make every effort to take advantage of the latest poly formulas, and when improvements are made in the available bushing technology we immediately incorporate them into our suspension components. The bushings we are currently using have the benefit of 13 years of design and manufacturing improvements over the bushings originally installed in Norm's control arms 13 years ago. While I don't expect Norm to notice a difference between the original style of bushings and the newest ones, the newest bushings are the very best we can offer.


One last point...We have seen more bushing failures result from over-lubrication as compared to a lack of lubrication. Over-lubrication can hydraulic and deform a bushing, so caution must be used, and we always suggest the use of a manual grease gun over a pneumatic one. In most instances, especially with our graphite/poly bushings, a few pumps each year at each mounting point is more than sufficient.


And that's it...We are very grateful for the continued support of the Marauder community, and we'll continue to do our best to make the highest quality control arms and Watts Links right here at our little shop in South Carolina.

[RF Overlord]

Does the nut have to be torqued when going back on, or just tight? Factory calls for 184 ft/lbs. With a spec that high, I would do it right rather than guessing whether it's "tight enough".

[Svashtar]

Factory calls for 184 ft/lbs. With a spec that high, I would do it right rather than guessing whether it's "tight enough".


Me too! Why I asked, thanks for the info! Don't want to have something like that work loose.

But I was under there yesterday and I don't see any clearance. Assuming I could clear the driveshaft, the exhaust is in the way. The sides no problem.

Once I get the new part I'll be able to figure out what I'm missing.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk