Radiator

[Lowndex]

For those running SC at 500 + rwhp, what brand aluminum radiator do you use / recommend. I found the 2003 thread recommending Griffin, but neither Ford or Mercury were among the vehicle make choices.

I like what I read about Mishimoto radiators, but I do not know if the unit will fit my 2004 Marauder.

http://www.mishimoto.com/ford-mustang-97-04-radiator-stabilizer-automatic.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-radiator-stabilizer-9704auto.html

[Marauderjack]

What's wrong with the stock one??:confused:

[lji372]

Over 600 and stock radiator........

[MOTOWN]

The radiators you posted don't have the inlet, and outlet on the correct sides , you can have a custom radiator built , or use the oem radiator, whats wrong with the radiator you bought from chief 455?

[lji372]

The radiators you posted don't have the inlet, and outlet on the correct sides , you can have a custom radiator built , or use the oem radiator, whats wrong with the radiator you bought from chief 455?

it was used :P

he's just looking for more options, researching everything.
looking for the best........

[MOTOWN]

it was used :P

he's just looking for more options, researching everything.
looking for the best........

Errrrr yeah dats da ticket! :rolleyes:

[Lowndex]

What's wrong with the stock one??:confused:

It was not designed for 500 rwhp.

[Lowndex]

it was used :P

he's just looking for more options, researching everything.
looking for the best........

Yes and appreciate the support.

[RubberCtyRauder]

It was not designed for 500 rwhp.

neither was the car, whats the point? how many here have told you that the radiator holds up fine for over 600 rwhp? you bought one from chief, as asked, what is wrng with that one not shiny enough?


then go get a custom one..there are no off the shelf marauder radiators to your liking..what's another $1000:beatnik:

[Lowndex]

The radiators you posted don't have the inlet, and outlet on the correct sides , you can have a custom radiator built , or use the oem radiator, whats wrong with the radiator you bought from chief 455?

Understood on the inlet and outlet locations. I could not find anything made for the Marauder to share.

Mishimoto will make me a custom unit, but first I want to hear input from members.

I may be showing my ignorance here. Is the radiator from Chief455 a OEM unit with the fans mounted? Or is the unit something else?

[MOTOWN]

That's my old oem Motorcraft radiator with the be cool fans , i had a Aluminum Dubz radiator custom built for my car.

[RubberCtyRauder]

And you wont be at 500 rwhp until you are in the 5000-5500 rpm range anyway and that's not the rpm range one drives anyway.

[chief455]

That's my old oem Motorcraft radiator with the be cool fans , i had a Aluminum Dubz radiator custom built for my car.

And has almost no miles, and did not run hot with 700+rwhp
I get wanting 'the best', build in insurance, etc - I do it too.
But the majority of members here have OEM cooling with roots/centri and no issues.
a quality t-stat set at a lower temp and proper fan regulation proves to be trouble free, many times over.
Good luck what ever you decide.

[Marauderjack]

It was not designed for 500 rwhp.

500 HP for 10 seconds (or less) and the OEM radiator cannot function well enough for you??:confused: NUTS!!:rolleyes:

I think you just want to be sure you put at least $100,000 in an OLD CAR.....so go for it....NO MORE INPUT FROM ME!!:shake:

[justbob]

Here is the real question. How is the radiator going to tell the difference in a 250 RWHP car compared to a 500 RWHP car? Get a lower T stat and be done.

Or don't.





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[Lowndex]

neither was the car, whats the point? how many here have told you that the radiator holds up fine for over 600 rwhp? you bought one from chief, as asked, what is wrng with that one not shiny enough?


then go get a custom one..there are no off the shelf marauder radiators to your liking..what's another $1000:beatnik:

Dude, you not getting laid, paid or made is not my fault. Piss-n-moan at someone else!

[Lowndex]

And has almost no miles, and did not run hot with 700+rwhp
I get wanting 'the best', build in insurance, etc - I do it too.
But the majority of members here have OEM cooling with roots/centri and no issues.
a quality t-stat set at a lower temp and proper fan regulation proves to be trouble free, many times over.
Good luck what ever you decide.

Thank you for the reply. I believe I will use the fine unit you sold me.

Have a great weekend.

[Lowndex]

500 HP for 10 seconds (or less) and the OEM radiator cannot function well enough for you??:confused: NUTS!!:rolleyes:

I think you just want to be sure you put at least $100,000 in an OLD CAR.....so go for it....NO MORE INPUT FROM ME!!:shake:

Swear? :flamer:

[Lowndex]

Here is the real question. How is the radiator going to tell the difference in a 250 RWHP car compared to a 500 RWHP car? Get a lower T stat and be done.

Or don't.





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I ordered the t-stat you recommended. After considering 'most everyone's' input, I feel am being overly cautious. Just trying to protect the investment. Rookie disease.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Go *** you are an a s shat and your high on the hog CA attitude. you and need a book called Marauders for dummies because all you have is money and not any common sense. Don't forget to snoop over on modded to see what I wrote about you.

[RubberCtyRauder]

You'll be so happy now as you are on ignore list so I don't have to read anymore of your asinine posts. AMF

[Lowndex]

Go *** you are an a s shat and your high on the hog CA attitude. you and need a book called Marauders for dummies because all you have is money and not any common sense. Don't forget to snoop over on modded to see what I wrote about you.

I feel bad yelling at a 12 year-old. My bad.

[MOTOWN]

Can't we all just get along? :argue::rolleyes:

[Lowndex]

We should have a rule: be rude to someone and you must buy them a beer (PayPal). Wait, I need to check my credit balance first. :)

[RubberCtyRauder]

We should have a rule: be rude to someone and you must buy them a beer (PayPal). Wait, I need to check my credit balance first. :)

You started it. Yeah, I lied too

[Spectragod]

I feel bad yelling at a 12 year-old. My bad.

What's your hangup with 12 year old's??????

[CWright]

http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o776/CDUBMERC/Mobile%20Uploads/6ED6F944-B0E7-4BEB-9836-1D4B28FAED25_zpsfcoxxodb.jpg (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/CDUBMERC/media/Mobile%20Uploads/6ED6F944-B0E7-4BEB-9836-1D4B28FAED25_zpsfcoxxodb.jpg.h tml)

[Lowndex]

What's your hangup with 12 year old's??????

They are more mature and smarter than me.

[lji372]

go too thick on the radiator and you'll run out of room for the inlet tube.

Not a lot of real estate between there, but again, that just means more mods. Lol

[sailsmen]

Radiator expels the most heat based on air flow. I think the OEM Radiator with the OEM designed air flow can handle 600+RWHP.

An old post;

As respects the fan, which is critical ~20mph-40mph, the key is the shroud.

Study the OEM shroud and you will see why. The OEM shroud enables the air that is drawn by the fan to flow over the entire rad cooling area.

Over 40mph the front air dam becomes effective.

I have a non-oem fan and shroud. I have Flex-a-lite 480 twin fans.
Numerous tests have revealed the following as respects my Marauder.

The Reische Thermostat increases flow which reduces the duration of peak temps.

Redline Water Wetter also reduces max temps by several degrees.

The water to coolant ratio affects max temps.

Removing your front grill reduces max temps 5*-8* and reduces the duration of peak temps.

Turning off your a/c reduces max temps 15* to 20*.

From Reische web site;
"Most people think a larger radiator will improve the capacity of the cooling system but a big factor that is often overlooked is airflow. Increasing airflow will have a dramatic effect on the cooling ability of any radiator which is why most choose to do so when prepping a vehicle for race use. Some common ways to get more air through the radiator are:

•Increase the size of the lower air dam
•Box in the radiator to force air to flow through it and not around it
•Additional hood and fascia vents
•Additional or more powerful cooling fans
This is also why you never want to remove the lower air dam on a modern vehicle. Not to mention it will reduce the life of the radiator fan(s) and could even cause overheating."

[Logizyme]

Go *** you are an a s shat and your high on the hog CA attitude. you and need a book called Marauders for dummies because all you have is money and not any common sense. Don't forget to snoop over on modded to see what I wrote about you.

Your not the only one who feels this way.

[tbone]

Radiator expels the most heat based on air flow. I think the OEM Radiator with the OEM designed air flow can handle 600+RWHP.

An old post;

As respects the fan, which is critical ~20mph-40mph, the key is the shroud.

Study the OEM shroud and you will see why. The OEM shroud enables the air that is drawn by the fan to flow over the entire rad cooling area.

Over 40mph the front air dam becomes effective.

I have a non-oem fan and shroud. I have Flex-a-lite 480 twin fans.
Numerous tests have revealed the following as respects my Marauder.

The Reische Thermostat increases flow which reduces the duration of peak temps.

Redline Water Wetter also reduces max temps by several degrees.

The water to coolant ratio affects max temps.

Removing your front grill reduces max temps 5*-8* and reduces the duration of peak temps.

Turning off your a/c reduces max temps 15* to 20*.

From Reische web site;
"Most people think a larger radiator will improve the capacity of the cooling system but a big factor that is often overlooked is airflow. Increasing airflow will have a dramatic effect on the cooling ability of any radiator which is why most choose to do so when prepping a vehicle for race use. Some common ways to get more air through the radiator are:

•Increase the size of the lower air dam
•Box in the radiator to force air to flow through it and not around it
•Additional hood and fascia vents
•Additional or more powerful cooling fans
This is also why you never want to remove the lower air dam on a modern vehicle. Not to mention it will reduce the life of the radiator fan(s) and could even cause overheating."

Good info.

I removed the lower air dam when I first bought the car 8 1/2 years ago. I did not like the way the thing looked. 58,000 miles later, no radiator failures or overheats, even on a a road trip from Chicago to Mt. Rushmore. I did replace the radiator when I did my supercharger, not because it was bad, but because I felt like it.

And if there was a killer radiator upgrade available, I probably would have bought it. Why? Because my car is like a member of the family and deserves the best. And I'm not a ****ing cheapskate.

[justbob]

I removed every single air damn there was on mine. Sides, bottom, all of them. But I also relocated my newer radiator lower and the bottom kicked back to save every last inch for ground clearance. I had to do all this to stuff in the F-1 with the cog kit/HOB bracket, otherwise I would have stayed with the stock unit and never looked back.

She will start to run up into the 215's at idle w/AC blasting @ 85* after twenty minutes. Other than that, no matter the weather or the speed I average 176* and that's with a 4 1/2" thick intercooler blocking it and a condenser.

I believe my cowl hood is the key benefactor for extracting my under hood heat as I have data logged LOWER than ambient temp IAT's at highway speeds!

43542
43543
43544
43545


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[1Marauder]

Here is the real question. How is the radiator going to tell the difference in a 250 RWHP car compared to a 500 RWHP car? Get a lower T stat and be done.

Or don't.


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Yes AND since the amount of heat will only increase/change x %, the the cooler T state and cooler plugs will diminish the spread... And since amount of h20/coolant is NOT being dismissed in the build... The stock unit with above mentioned slight mods will be more than adequate and perhaps better suited and balanced than anything but a custome one.

[1Marauder]

Should have read entire 3 pages first... WOW!

Yes and increased airflow and under-hood venting will help more than most anything else... And why big city cabbies open the latch of their crown Vic hoods while driving in town.

[Marauderjack]

Should have read entire 3 pages first... WOW!

Yes and increased airflow and under-hood venting will help more than most anything else... And why big city cabbies open the latch of their crown Vic hoods while driving in town.

How are you doing Grant??:confused: