View Full Version : Engine Rebuild
cer0413
04-01-2016, 09:42 AM
I want to lead off by reminding you that this post is not designed to attack anyone/member but simply gain advice for my issue. Any negative feedback towards them or myself will not be entertained. Three weeks ago I created my procharger build thread project for the sake of "fitting in" with the forum and pleasing certain s/c'd individuals. During this project, there were no known issues with my car other than my horn and my only past related repair were the timing guides and tensioners. So recently, I delivered my car to a member on here for the 96-98 cobra timing cover and cam over swaps. The swap took about 4 days to complete with no issues to report from my installer. My installer claimed to have went through all the proper checkup procedures before I picked the car up and even then nothing was reported. On my way home (60-70mph) from my installers home, (25 miles away) I experienced some hesitation as if I needed new plugs or cops. As I approached the upcoming traffic, the car suddenly developed a consistent hesitation and backfiring as I decreased speed. Once I've reached a point in traffic were it was stop and go, the car died on me. (embarrassing moment especially during traffic hours) so immediately I attempted to start my car but it struggled to crank over. Once it cranked over, I was lucky to pull to the shoulder of the road to search for any visible issues. There were no leaks, no smoke, and nothing looked loose under the hood. Since I was 5-10 minutes from my home at that time of need, I was blessed to limp home. Remind you, this was exactly 30minutes after I left my mechanic. Gave him a call to pinpoint an issue and unfortunately he was not able to help over the phone. I allowed the car to sit over night and scheduled a drop off time for next morning. Fast forward to his home the next morning, the car felt like it didn't want to go and it had a consistent knocking during acceleration. It felt as if the trans was slipping or I had an open exhaust. (Loss of power) Once I stopped in front of his home, the car had a faint knock, rattle noise and vibration under the hood. I left soon after that to let him diagnose the car. So days later, after the removal of the covers again, a compression test was done, oil pan was removed to inspect the crank and other procedures. His discoveries were the passenger side upper timing guide had broken off and within the oil pan, he discovered that broken timing guide and another timing guide. (replaced last may by another member) Fast toward to yesterday, I received a disturbing phone call from him saying the knocking is still there even though new guides and metal tensioners were installed. So I guess its safe to say I've recently joined the individuals who now needs an engine rebuild due to either age of my engine 127,XXX or mechanical negligence. I know its going to be hard to determine the cause of my loss but can anyone add other ways to diagnose my engine without a tear down. I have another well reputable member helping me with a marauder block but before I move forward with a replacement or rebuild, I want to use all possible options of diagnosing it.
Thank you
MOTOWN
04-01-2016, 09:51 AM
It would be impossible to diagnose what actually went wrong without having the car in front of you , guides, and chains could have been defective , installation could have been half azzed , install of the front cover shouldn't have effected the engine , but who knows what was done , or not done properly.
When I had your engine apart, it looked neglected.
The additional timing guide he found was the one that had broken off before you brought it to me.
I forget, had you brought me Ford brand guides and tensioners?
It would be impossible to diagnose what actually went wrong without having the car in front of you , guides, and chains could have been defective , installation could have been half azzed , install of the front cover shouldn't have effected the engine , but who knows what was done , or not done properly.
I got to see all of the pictures.
Install looked perfect, but I suspect it was plain bad luck that caused a failure
MOTOWN
04-01-2016, 10:00 AM
This truly sucks cer , but at this point the most important thing is getting the engine properly rebuilt, hit me up if you need anything.
cer0413
04-01-2016, 10:20 AM
When I had your engine apart, it looked neglected.
The additional timing guide he found was the one that had broken off before you brought it to me.
I forget, had you brought me Ford brand guides and tensioners?
When we spoke, you told me that it looked good for supercharging. But maybe that was then. [emoji20]
This truly sucks cer , but at this point the most important thing is getting the engine properly rebuilt, hit me up if you need anything.
I hope you have unlimited mobile to mobile because I'm going to bug the fack out of you. [emoji50]
MOTOWN
04-01-2016, 10:23 AM
When we spoke, you told me that it looked good for supercharging. You also said that on my engine ticking thread. But maybe that was then. [emoji20]
I hope you have unlimited mobile to mobile because I'm going to bug the fack out of you. [emoji50]
Huh? What's that? I was sleeping and missed your call , stay by the phone I'll call you right back! :rolleyes: lol
When we spoke, you told me that it looked good for supercharging. But maybe that was then. [emoji20]
It did and it still does. On a scale of how it was maintained, I'd give it a 6 out of 10
Ourobos
04-01-2016, 11:55 AM
Could it have jumped time and bent some valves? How was the last compression test? Leak down test done?
I have a max effort short block at the machine shop now that I have decided not to use, I'm gonna stay at 392hp vs upgrade every drive train component. I'll be selling it when it's done if you have to go that route
cer0413
04-01-2016, 01:09 PM
any experiences with these guys?
http://mhpengines.com/46_shortblock
This sounds very similar to when I lost my first Marauder engine. The cams seized and caused the drivers side chains to brake. Did you have an oil change before driving the car home? I will try to find the link that described the problem that I had.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91448
cer0413
04-01-2016, 01:46 PM
This sounds very similar to when I lost my first Marauder engine. The cams seized and caused the drivers side chains to brake. Did you have an oil change before driving the car home? I will try to find the link that described the problem that I had.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91448
The oil was drained but added back in after the cover swaps.
Ourobos
04-01-2016, 02:01 PM
any experiences with these guys?
http://mhpengines.com/46_shortblock
No but mine will be on par with that last piece they have, Teksid block, Kellogg Crank, 4340 H-beams with ARP 2000 bolts, Arp main studs, side bolts, and head studs, Wiseco pistons (10.5:1)...
Curless
04-01-2016, 03:03 PM
Honestly, without seeing it any decent mechanic could not give you the answers you are looking for. If you had Zack look at it / work on it I am sure he did the work correctly. Unfortunately sometimes poop happens even after every precaution has been taken. I would not skimp on your rebuild. Take your time, spend the money to do it right, do your research so that you know you are getting a quality job.
Lowndex
04-01-2016, 04:07 PM
No good deed goes unpunished.
camelgrundle
04-01-2016, 04:46 PM
And a deed too! ;)
lji372
04-01-2016, 04:57 PM
Borrow (steal) car
Swap motors.
Return car. Easy peasy :2thumbs:
RubberCtyRauder
04-01-2016, 05:08 PM
Borrow (steal) car
Swap motors.
Return car. Easy peasy :2thumbs:
I can tell you where Jerry lives. Lol :D
Lowndex
04-01-2016, 05:13 PM
And a deed too! ;)
hehehehehe
lji372
04-01-2016, 05:13 PM
I can tell you where Jerry lives. Lol :D
He knows.
You think you were the first. Palease.... :lol:
RubberCtyRauder
04-01-2016, 05:17 PM
Me and someone else you know might be related so we take the short bus
8UWITH6
04-01-2016, 06:55 PM
Sorry to hear this CJ. But unfortunately it is part of the game. Something could have happened unknown between Tech A and B, and Tech A and C, and Tech B and C, and what about Tech D that worked on the car way back when, and said Tech A, B, C were full of it, but his best friend Tech FU knows more than Tech, A, B, C, D, and everyone else. Hope you get it sorted out. We are all here to help.
The oil was drained but added back in after the cover swaps.
Check the lobes on the cams for hot spots. Oil pump failures have happened in the past. A upgraded pump is what most do on a rebuild.
JoeBoomz
04-01-2016, 07:29 PM
Bad luck this happened on April 1st.
martyo
04-01-2016, 08:01 PM
The oil was drained but added back in after the cover swaps.
You reused your oil?
vkirkend
04-01-2016, 08:43 PM
Sorry to hear about your engine but @ 127,000 miles and boosting you were on borrowed time. Just sounds like bad luck. Look at MMR Racing for your rebuild. I like what i have from them so far.
Turbov6Bryan
04-01-2016, 09:05 PM
Wait a second
Was the blower put on?
cer0413
04-02-2016, 01:27 AM
You reused your oil?
Correction, "He" reused the oil that was originally in the engine.
Wait a second
Was the blower put on?
All this happened while being naturally aspirated.
martyo
04-02-2016, 03:31 AM
Correction, "He" reused the oil that was originally in the engine.
That would have been my wait a minute moment.....
But I tend not to worry the last $23 when my cars are involved.
cer0413
04-02-2016, 05:56 AM
That would have been my wait a minute moment.....
But I tend not to worry the last $23 when my cars are involved.
Even though it was near my scheduled routine for an oil change, I didn't think it was necessary to replace it then. Remember the only thing I wanted was the cover swap. Regular maintenance would have soon followed.
justbob
04-02-2016, 06:46 AM
I'm just of old school thought on that subject. Remember when we had to deal with cork gaskets and enough RTV to build a giant rubber waffle? All that crap would clog a pick up tube screen in a heart beat.. Not so much an issue nowadays, but hard to change my ways.
Still think this was more bad timing, no pun intended. Sucks to hear knowing you were within days of finally getting your dreams come true.
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cer0413
04-02-2016, 07:12 AM
I'm just of old school thought on that subject. Remember when we had to deal with cork gaskets and enough RTV to build a giant rubber waffle? All that crap would clog a pick up tube screen in a heart beat.. Not so much an issue nowadays, but hard to change my ways.
Still think this was more bad timing, no pun intended. Sucks to hear knowing you were within days of finally getting your dreams come true.
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So so close man. I would rather rebuild it after I was done with the procharger. Now I have two projects to complete.
MOTOWN
04-02-2016, 07:17 AM
Just one of those things , now you can have a blown ride , and a forged motor! Sometimes things work out best after a few setbacks.
justbob
04-02-2016, 08:49 AM
Just one of those things , now you can have a blown ride , and a forged motor! Sometimes things work out best after a few setbacks.
Painfully true. I've been way too lucky with mine. But I deserve a break after the last couple of old Chevy's I built!
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cer0413
04-02-2016, 10:11 AM
Just one of those things , now you can have a blown ride , and a forged motor! Sometimes things work out best after a few setbacks.
That's my approach and I appreciate the help to man.
ChiTownMaraud3r
04-02-2016, 10:20 AM
Just buy a supercharged, built car.
loud2004marquis
04-02-2016, 10:39 AM
Just one of those things , now you can have a blown ride , and a forged motor! Sometimes things work out best after a few setbacks.
https://img0.etsystatic.com/000/0/6377327/il_570xN.258403218.jpg
Just buy a supercharged, built car.
It's not the same
ChiTownMaraud3r
04-02-2016, 11:14 AM
It's not the same
Right. It's cheaper, sooner, proven, and saves headaches.
eric jones
04-02-2016, 12:05 PM
I've had some major setbacks in my quest to get boosted. 2 times I have had my motor rebuilt in the last 2 years or so. First time installer didn't prime the motor correctly and ruined the rings, cylinder walls and pistons. Second time I got about 12,xxx might before it developed a "tick." Had it checked out and found that the passenger side bank of cylinders were "washed out." The blocked was already bored over and could not be bored over anymore so I had to get another block and start over. So now I've had it back for a month and so far so good. It has been very frustrating and expensive. But I'm not giving up! I have all the parts for the M122 swap and will happen....eventually! So don't give up
cer0413
04-02-2016, 02:58 PM
Painfully true. I've been way too lucky with mine. But I deserve a break after the last couple of old Chevy's I built!
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
Slept on it and Im choosing Dean's Performance for the rebuild. Hopefully he's up for the task even though he's a one man show. Last time we spoke, he said he's more than willing to assist me with a forged build. I'm going to go with a mildly forged build. I'm not looking to go crazy as far stroked or bigger displacement, no offense to those guys but a build that's more than capable of handling my hp goal. (400-500rwhp) Per my research, mildly forged builds are rated for 600hp max. So that's perfect for my goal and needs.
I've had some major setbacks in my quest to get boosted. 2 times I have had my motor rebuilt in the last 2 years or so. First time installer didn't prime the motor correctly and ruined the rings, cylinder walls and pistons. Second time I got about 12,xxx might before it developed a "tick." Had it checked out and found that the passenger side bank of cylinders were "washed out." The blocked was already bored over and could not be bored over anymore so I had to get another block and start over. So now I've had it back for a month and so far so good. It has been very frustrating and expensive. But I'm not giving up! I have all the parts for the M122 swap and will happen....eventually! So don't give up
Wow! Most definitely going in my bookmark of disaster builds. I'm glad you've recovered.
Vostok
04-02-2016, 03:10 PM
CJ, while I appreciate no names being named, I stand behind my work and will name myself in addition to bringing forth all the information and evidence I have about this ordeal, as I too am left with many questions with no definitive answers. The only way to know what is going on would be to completely disassemble the crankshaft assembly.
Let me start by saying that I am a professional "street" mechanic. I work completely from home and sometimes go mobile with my tools. I have done this full time for approximately 2 years now. I have done just about everything. Engine swaps, transmissions swaps, head gaskets, rear ends, every cover, every pump, every suspension component, body panels, doors, windows, bumpers...the list goes on. Since January 1st of this year I have processed 52 separate vehicles and completed well over 100 individual repairs. I work about 60-70 brutal hours a week but I wouldn't trade it for anything, I truly love what I do.
Being a one man operation does not leave any room for error or mistakes. I have to take 100% responsibility for everything I come in contact with. Precision and safety awareness is an everyday priority. Many of my customers are people with families and children. I couldn't live with myself if I ever did something that could potentially endanger their lives. With this being said...meticulous is an understatement to to the way I operate my business. I take hundreds of pictures every month as a safeguard and documentation.
Anyway, here we go. This is CJ's engine upon removal of the timing and valve covers. Note the gold discoloration. Anyone that has seen the inside of an engine or two in their day knows that this is a sign of under maintenance. (low on oil/excessive oil change intervals/excessive heat buildup). Note the condition of the timing guides as they are all intact at this point. (Top right is slightly darker? :confused:) The bottom photo was taken just moments before the new cover was to be installed.
http://s17.postimg.org/f89c12di3/20160315_231136.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/f89c12di3/)
http://s17.postimg.org/3p6v6sze3/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3p6v6sze3/)
I was particularly careful with the re installation. They were freshly painted and I did not want to scuff or scratch them. The sole purpose of this was an aesthetic modification and I treated it as such.
http://s28.postimg.org/5j0gwd1mx/20160317_120921.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5j0gwd1mx/)
http://s24.postimg.org/niubhgd5d/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/niubhgd5d/)
http://s15.postimg.org/c347nc3on/20160318_152804.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/c347nc3on/)
Started right up on the first crank. I didn't miss a thing. Looked great, sounded great. I immediately proceeded to remove the COT plug and begin the coolant burping procedure. I've done it numerous times on my own car and I know how tricky it can be to get all the air out. I even went to the extent of driving it for several miles in the higher RPM range and then burped it again to assure every air bubble was out.
Test drove it once more for approximately 7 miles. I have a set route that I do for all my test drives that involves speed bumps, sharp turns, and several minutes of highway speed driving in an attempt to replicate any and all different driving behaviors. No check engine light, still sounds great, I was done. At this point I called CJ to let him know that the job was complete. I advised that the oil and filter be changed immediately and offered to do it but as CJ stated he was going to get one the next day and I said cool.
I want to make note of the oil filter that was in the car and the fact that it sounded as if it was "dry starting" before and after the repair. I also remember this same filter being on the car approximately 2 years ago when CJ came to me to have his pinion seal replaced. It appeared significantly smaller than OEM Motorcraft FL-820S. I cross referenced the part number on this "Prime Guard" oil filter and it was correct for this car but many of us are well aware that there are filters on the market that do not feature the anti-drain back valve. I believe this to be somewhat well known in the modular community and known to cause dry start conditions.
http://s14.postimg.org/565clivfx/20160321_183908.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/565clivfx/)
As stated the car was returned to me the next day running like garbage and knocking. I was pretty frantic at the thought that I missed something. At first it kind of just sounded like a heavy misfire coupled with some detonation. I spent hours in diagnostic mode. Checked the coils, the plugs, fuel pressure, oil pressure, looked for vacuum leaks, a compression test (it passed), power/grounding issues, etc. I could not find a single thing on the surface that could cause these kind of symptoms. I had no choice but to start taking the covers off again and retrace my work. Driver side valve cover removed first. My first finding...metal shavings on the camshaft position sensor.
http://s9.postimg.org/f51nq6psr/20160319_210931.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/f51nq6psr/)
I continue my tear down with pulling the timing cover. Top left guide missing entirely.
http://s24.postimg.org/cowfsaev5/20160319_224336.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/cowfsaev5/)
Pieces everywhere.
http://s28.postimg.org/8ztpadwqx/20160319_230019.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/8ztpadwqx/)
CONTD...
Vostok
04-02-2016, 03:11 PM
http://s9.postimg.org/fehlz2w4b/20160319_230259.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/fehlz2w4b/)
So, this made perfect sense. The noises it was making and the misfiring could both easily have been attributed to slack in the timing chain due to this missing guide. It was stressed to me that he wanted to spend as little as possible to fix this. I understand having just paid for the cover swaps is a dent in the wallet. I advised that at the very least we replace the top 2 guides. The broken one, and the other one that looked to be discolored and unusually worn compared to the others (top right).
The parts come in days later and I proceed with changing out the guides. While removing the lower left tensioner guide i'm holding it in my hand and it's like, literally loose/flimsy feeling. I inspect it and see this.
http://s13.postimg.org/q3s4mtubn/20160323_190326.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/q3s4mtubn/)
And this unusual wear that did not become visible until removal of the tensioner and chain. The clip part underneath that was broken off allowed the plastic part to just be easily removed. This should not be possible.
http://s28.postimg.org/hyb1fb3t5/20160323_181430.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/hyb1fb3t5/)
At this point I advised CJ that we do this right and replace all of the guides and upgrade to the metal tensioners that were used in most 03 models and older versions of this engine. They are known to be considerably more reliable and have features that the plastic ones do not. I also decided to pull the oil pan. I did not like the idea of leaving timing components laying in the oil and I still had to prove to myself that nothing was laying in there that should not have been (tools/hardware) etc. Taking the oil pan out is 4.6 hours shop time. (Funny number right? :D) It is no fun, and I did it on my back. It's to my understanding that not many people here have done this before without removing the engine entirely. (If you want to learn the trick to doing this without complete removal of the engine or k-frame please message me)
http://s27.postimg.org/icd8u6efz/20160321_180551.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/icd8u6efz/)
So i'm fishing everything out of there and started laying everything out and it occurs to me...wait a second...there's 2 guides in here. :confused:. So I asked about this and was informed that some timing work was done less than a year ago. The picture started to become clear about what was happening here. This engine is a troublemaker and has been for a while.
http://s14.postimg.org/5o1f44iwd/20160321_182148.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5o1f44iwd/)
I found nothing in the pan but plastic guides and metallic oil. I presumed that the shavings were from the metal-metal contact of the chain-guide having no plastic barrier between them. With all engine covers removed I saw this as an opporunity to thoroughly inspect the entire engine to the best of my ability. Camshaft lobes show a bit of wear but nothing that was going to stop it from running right. Crankshaft looks alright from underneath, no broken rods or visible chunks/pieces missing from the assembly. The engine turned by hand without a fight. I used my best judgement and said OK, well, it's time to put this thing back together. I would not have proceeded with the reassembly of everything if I thought it was just going to be a big waste of time.
Just in case it decided to jump timing or something I re-did that as well. Set the crank to 30 degrees BTDC and lined up the secondary chains on the heads.
http://s13.postimg.org/ycw6vvo3n/20160329_180356.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ycw6vvo3n/)
http://s10.postimg.org/679zwkeet/20160329_180421.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/679zwkeet/)
Vostok
04-02-2016, 03:11 PM
http://s30.postimg.org/6qqredv71/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/6qqredv71/)
http://s16.postimg.org/xu0ihzpy9/20160330_141331.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/xu0ihzpy9/)
Everything is perfect, pull the pins on the tensioners, mini shop vac the whole engine to remove any debris, close it up.
- New Motorcraft Spark plugs
- Motorcraft FL-820S Oil Filter
Once again, it started right up, but to my dismay there was still a heavy knock present and it actually sounded worse than it did before. I presume this is because it was no longer misfiring and everything was tight once again in the timing system. My heart kind of sank. There's a certain feeling you get when you put 20+ hours of skilled backbreaking labor into something and have it all be in vain.
I have reason to believe that something in the crankshaft assembly is just not meshing correctly under any type of load. The difference between hand spinning an engine and 750+RPM will make an engine do all sorts of invisible voodoo. As I and many of you have said there's no way to know what happened without complete disassembly and more often than not, it's not worth it to find out. I believe this engine to be at the end of it's life.
Conclusion: There was zero evidence that anything I had done attributed to the demise of this engine. I understand and I am equally baffled at the coincidental timing for this to happen shortly after leaving my shop but I cannot take any responsibility for what happened here. I went to great lengths to try and make it right again but, stuff breaks...
Ourobos
04-02-2016, 03:36 PM
Looks like a job well done.. Just uncanny timing.. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt as well
Curless
04-02-2016, 03:51 PM
I gotta be honest, we have never met but your diligence in how you described your work, the fact that you took so many photos, the lengths that you went to to be sure you did nothing wrong speaks volumes about you and your integrity.... Job well done. It does ruin any good mechanics day when you don't "win"... none of us like these situations...
JoeBoomz
04-02-2016, 04:31 PM
I've seen the guides wearing and breaking apart too, I believe that some tensioners run the chain harder against the guides than others.
I've found some engines have next to no guide wear, while others have a ton, with fewer miles on them.
cer0413
04-02-2016, 04:39 PM
I've seen the guides wearing and breaking apart too, I believe that some tensioners run the chain harder against the guides than others.
I've found some engines have next to no guide wear, while others have a ton, with fewer miles on them.
Unfortunately, the guides were failing within less than a year. Hopefully RockAuto can compensate for the failed parts.
BUCKWHEAT
04-02-2016, 07:12 PM
but I struggle with the concept of doing something on the cheap with my MM. You get what you pay for.
Vostok
04-02-2016, 08:01 PM
but I struggle with the concept of doing something on the cheap with my MM. You get what you pay for.
After seeing numerous different engines and setups I will say that the 4.6 DOHC is not an engine that can take much abuse. It is kind of a maintenance hog. Frequent oil changes (with the correct filter), coolant flushes, premium fuel, and spark plugs done right are a mandatory minimum to keep these things purring without issues. SOHC can probably run on 3 quarts of oil and old gas all day everyday. Its a very forgiving engine. DOHC is high performance and considerably less forgiving. Too many moving parts and less tolerant to variables. Thats just the way it is. Take care of your babies.
sailsmen
04-02-2016, 10:13 PM
Most modern powertrains that I am aware of can easily go 300K-400K provided the maintenance schedule is adhered to.
I cannot recall any power trains in the 1970's that had an expectation of going past 100K.
Having said that you could take a base ball bat to 1/3 of that 1970's radiator and so long as it wasn't leaking you would never know the difference.
Get a couple of dragon flies stuck in your rad today and the car will run hotter.
8UWITH6
04-03-2016, 06:31 AM
Customer at work has a DTR with 280K miles on it. Engine has never been opened up just typical repairs water pumps, plugs, pcv valves, etc. Trans has never been repaired just fluid changes. Now the rear axle has been rebuilt 3 times. ;)
cer0413
04-03-2016, 06:50 AM
Customer at work has a DTR with 280K miles on it. Engine has never been opened up just typical repairs water pumps, plugs, pcv valves, etc. Trans has never been repaired just fluid changes. Now the rear axle has been rebuilt 3 times. ;)
Damn DTRs. Maybe I should get a different color. [emoji592]
8UWITH6
04-03-2016, 06:55 AM
Damn DTRs. Maybe I should get a different color. [emoji592]
Don't feel bad. My engine is making noise in the DBP. I am right behind you on a rebuild this winter.
justbob
04-03-2016, 10:02 AM
Damn DTRs. Maybe I should get a different color. [emoji592]
I would remind you about once you go black...
But...
BTW, the wife wanted your contact info? Something about comparing notes or something else? Can't remember, wasn't listening, just seemed odd.
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
cer0413
04-04-2016, 10:31 AM
Well I have good and bad news.
Good news: I plan on ordering a ford racing short block with forged internals that's "rated up to 1200hp" (mhpengines.com).
Bad news: Unfortunately, my selected installer wont be available to for it until this fall. (racing season) [emoji20]
I'm going wait until I find an installer (reputable and near me) before I spend the coin but its promising.
Well I have good and bad news.
Good news: I plan on ordering a ford racing short block with forged internals that's "rated up to 1200hp" (mhpengines.com).
Bad news: Unfortunately, my selected installer wont be available to for it until this fall. (racing season) [emoji20]
I'm going wait until I find an installer (reputable and near me) before I spend the coin but its promising.
I can swap engines for you
Also, that $4099 engine you want is way too overkill for your needs.
Spend 3k tops on building a shortblock, possibly less
Seneca
04-04-2016, 12:14 PM
Also, that $4099 engine you want is way too overkill for your needs.
Spend 3k tops on building a shortblock, possibly less
I definitely agree.. spend that extra money on other parts. It's a shame you don't have someone local to build you a short block, you could build a budget short block for about 2500 if you shop wisely, maybe even less, unfortunately labor is going to be your killer. Wish I was closer to help out, sounds like that man is going to hook you up tho!!👌
cer0413
04-04-2016, 12:46 PM
New cast iron Ford Racing blockNew Kellog
Forged 3.543 crankshaft (same crank used in 03-04 cobras)
New 4340 5.933 H-Beam rods w/ ARP bolts
New Forged Manley or Probe pistons 3.552 bore-size 9.3:1 comp. w/ a 43.9cc head
Speed pro file fit rings Speed Pro or Fedeal mogul bearrings
Digitally Balanced
Price: $3199.00
1 year warranty
225.00 shipping
but ill keep looking [emoji19]
Turbov6Bryan
04-04-2016, 01:05 PM
3424.00 isn't too bad once you add up what it takes to build one
Plus machine work
Plus labor paid out to build the short block if you can't build it yourself
Have you added up parts only vs buying that 3199.00 engine?
I hate waiting on machine shops, here it's usually 2-3 months No joke
cer0413
04-04-2016, 01:55 PM
3424.00 isn't too bad once you add up what it takes to build one
Plus machine work
Plus labor paid out to build the short block if you can't build it yourself
Have you added up parts only vs buying that 3199.00 engine?
I hate waiting on machine shops, here it's usually 2-3 months No joke
I've spoken to about 4 guys that attempted both rebuilding the marauder engine and buying a built short block. All of them have said buying a built block then refreshing the heads was cheaper. My estimate factoring total is near the 4k range and that's if I get crazy with customizing for big power. Most forged aftermarket short blocks are around 3500+ and that's without shipping. I thought about buying a low mileage cobra block but the compression doesn't excite me and the integrity of both the seller and engine is a huge factor. If I knew were to go for a rebuild for less than 3k, I would have the car towed immediately. That's why I started this thread. For guys to offer suggestions and advice.
justbob
04-04-2016, 04:03 PM
My head guy did my valve job in like two days. Great guys, probably not the cheapest, but I didn't shop around either. Price was reasonable and the service was top notch.
http://builtriteengine.com
See what they want to build a short block and freshen your heads. Just know what your looking for before you go in otherwise they might bust your chops a little. [emoji4]
Tell them Bob with the noisy ass Marauder sent you. [emoji1303]
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cer0413
04-04-2016, 04:59 PM
My head guy did my valve in like two days. Great guys, probably not the cheapest, but I didn't shop around either. Price was reasonable and the service was top notch.
http://builtriteengine.com
See what they want to build a short block and freshen your heads. Just know what your looking for before you go in otherwise they might bust your chops a little. [emoji4]
Tell them Bob with the noisy ass Marauder sent you. [emoji1303]
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Thanks for posting man.
3199 isn't bad
I thought you wanted the 4199 version
I'd use your stock crank to save money, based on your goals
RacerX
04-04-2016, 05:43 PM
I really need to empty out some messages in my message box so I can be continuously tormented by silly questions.
Tell them Bob with the noisy ass Marauder sent you. [emoji1303]
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I need to harass you... :D
justbob
04-04-2016, 07:47 PM
I need to harass you... :D
There is other sites.. Just sayin. [emoji6]
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ChiTownMaraud3r
04-04-2016, 07:56 PM
Dibs on PVD wheels..:D
cer0413
04-04-2016, 08:00 PM
Dibs on PVD wheels..:D
Never!!!!!! [emoji23]
champ1173
04-04-2016, 08:06 PM
I'm glad to hear that it's all coming together for you.
cer0413
04-05-2016, 09:02 AM
My head guy did my valve job in like two days. Great guys, probably not the cheapest, but I didn't shop around either. Price was reasonable and the service was top notch.
http://builtriteengine.com
See what they want to build a short block and freshen your heads. Just know what your looking for before you go in otherwise they might bust your chops a little. [emoji4]
Tell them Bob with the noisy ass Marauder sent you. [emoji1303]
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Are these the only guys you know of that repair and refresh heads here in Chicago?
F1erceK
04-05-2016, 09:05 AM
This is a slippery slope. My biggest piece of advice is setting your plan and STICKING to it! I made a plan, and then forged internals and ARP-everything later I could have gone to Bora-Bora for a week.
Spec it out, plan it, stick to the plan.
lifespeed
04-05-2016, 10:25 AM
Right. It's cheaper, sooner, proven, and saves headaches.
That is a rather optimistic view, and presumes the builder knew what he was doing. It often does not work out like that.
justbob
04-05-2016, 01:22 PM
Are these the only guys you know of that repair and refresh heads here in Chicago?
They are the only ones I've ever had to deal with. Every other car I've built got new parts.
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cer0413
04-26-2016, 09:16 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160721/ddf89f1f55187ad769f63ec5bc5f7c 3d.jpg
Polished throttle body
cer0413
07-20-2016, 09:40 PM
Purchased Motown's built Jewelry http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160721/c5e75a58432328e4a839d1ff6cce85 db.jpg
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MOTOWN
07-20-2016, 10:37 PM
Purchased Motown's built Jewelry http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160721/c5e75a58432328e4a839d1ff6cce85 db.jpg
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Well i guess the cat is out of the bag!:eek:
lifespeed
07-20-2016, 11:07 PM
Which model supercharger?
cer0413
07-20-2016, 11:14 PM
Which model supercharger?
P1
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justbob
07-21-2016, 04:29 PM
I figured you bought it!
You didn't get his YSI??
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MOTOWN
07-21-2016, 04:57 PM
I figured you bought it!
You didn't get his YSI??
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He slept on the YSI:snoopy:
lji372
07-21-2016, 05:02 PM
Hmm
What does the p stand for?
justbob
07-21-2016, 06:23 PM
Hmm
What does the p stand for?
Pretty?
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justbob
07-21-2016, 06:24 PM
He slept on the YSI:snoopy:
Shaking head so much my neck hurts..
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Didn't you ask me for a break on labor?
Haha I know what's up now.
8UWITH6
07-21-2016, 06:50 PM
Warranty on used engine? Cover those intake ports.
MOTOWN
07-21-2016, 06:58 PM
Didn't you ask me for a break on labor?
Haha I know what's up now.
Yeah i know what's up too! It was installed correctly the first time!
MOTOWN
07-21-2016, 06:59 PM
Warranty on used engine? Cover those intake ports.
Lmao! There covered by the intake!
cer0413
07-21-2016, 07:00 PM
Didn't you ask me for a break on labor?
Haha I know what's up now.
Yea but that was before your Louisville trip. I'm still holding my breath for your response quote. [emoji12]
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8UWITH6
07-21-2016, 07:04 PM
Lmao! There covered by the intake!
Well get it on there then. Would hate to see someone drop a nut in it before the owner gets to drop his nut hitting the throttle on that monster for the first time!
MOTOWN
07-21-2016, 07:07 PM
Well get it on there then. Would hate to see someone drop a nut in it before the owner gets to drop his nut hitting the throttle on that monster for the first time!
Not my project to flaunt! I'll leave that to the owner , not my place to post his car.
cer0413
07-21-2016, 07:10 PM
Could we remain positive here?
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MOTOWN
07-21-2016, 07:11 PM
Could we remain positive here?
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Some can , some cannot! :shake:
cer0413
07-21-2016, 08:36 PM
Well soon, this thread will be updated with more goods. So stay tuned peeps and thank you again Moteezy .
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8UWITH6
07-21-2016, 08:46 PM
What is the time frame on the project CJ? Looking forward to updates.
cer0413
07-21-2016, 08:49 PM
What is the time frame on the project CJ? Looking forward to updates.
Should be done by Monday and lidio will have it by Saturday.
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JBeezy
07-21-2016, 08:57 PM
Nice!!! Good luck with it.
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Turbov6Bryan
07-21-2016, 09:02 PM
Should be done by Monday and lidio will have it by Saturday.
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Hope he didn't get those sqeaky white shoes dirty!!!
Lol. :)
MOTOWN
07-21-2016, 09:23 PM
Hope he didn't get those sqeaky white shoes dirty!!!
Lol. :)
They are dirty , and still squeaky!:eek::eek:
justbob
07-22-2016, 04:21 AM
Should be done by Monday and lidio will have it by Saturday.
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Finally, a build time frame that's quick. Just like Neil's record time Eaton swap! Congrats man, at least you didn't lose the season.
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cer0413
07-22-2016, 05:00 AM
Finally, a build time frame that's quick. Just like Neil's record time Eaton swap! Congrats man, at least you didn't lose the season.
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Thanks man. My ass is burning thinking about dyno day or that might be something else.
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CWright
07-22-2016, 08:31 AM
Can't wait to hear the numbers. Post up more Picts!!:D
cer0413
07-25-2016, 06:46 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/597257fb891ffe79c89af41b714907 b8.jpg
Sneak peek.....
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champ1173
07-25-2016, 06:53 PM
Should be done by Monday and lidio will have it by Saturday.
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That's frickin awesome news! Can't wait to see it, n hear it.
Is the car at Curless's shop?
Big Mercur
07-26-2016, 11:27 AM
Congrats Man!!!!
MERCURY 2003LSE
07-26-2016, 12:08 PM
Any updates yet ?:beer:
cer0413
08-01-2016, 06:14 AM
Any updates yet ?[emoji481]
So far, engine is seated down. We're just waiting on my new oil pressure sending unit and mounting the gauges.
Is the car at Curless's shop?
No it isn't.
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ChiTownMaraud3r
08-01-2016, 08:12 AM
Can't wait. Chicago needs more MMs on boost.
champ1173
08-01-2016, 10:13 AM
Can't wait. Chicago needs more MMs on boost.
I don't like your tone!
8UWITH6
08-01-2016, 08:26 PM
Finally, a build time frame that's quick. Just like Neil's record time Eaton swap! Congrats man, at least you didn't lose the season.
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Tick tock. Get after it boys. :beer:
ChiTownMaraud3r
08-02-2016, 08:14 AM
I don't like your tone!
Somebody get this man's car some testosterone!.. er I mean booooost!
:burnout:
ChiTownMaraud3r
08-02-2016, 11:50 AM
Tick tock. Get after it boys. :beer:
Tick tock, as in Neil's motor? Hey-ohhh!
:flamer:
8UWITH6
08-02-2016, 07:56 PM
Still running, zero given.............. at all, WOT daily.
ChiTownMaraud3r
08-02-2016, 07:58 PM
Atta boy :beer:
8UWITH6
08-02-2016, 08:35 PM
CJ how is it going. Pics? I am excited. Did you buy a converter?
cer0413
08-03-2016, 03:14 AM
CJ how is it going. Pics? I am excited. Did you buy a converter?
Still ongoing as of now. I might have to change the balancer because it may over spin the blower. As for the converter, I stuck with the stock one because I didn't want to prolong the build.
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cer0413
08-03-2016, 03:15 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/dc854f7dea67589904d5e081906a85 f2.jpg
Lower Intake painted
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Still ongoing as of now. I might have to change the balancer because it may over spin the blower. As for the converter, I stuck with the stock one because I didn't want to prolong the build.
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Install a wastegate in the charge air plumbing, instead of changing the balancer.
Who's working on the car?
cer0413
08-03-2016, 06:12 AM
Install a wastegate in the charge air plumbing, instead of changing the balancer.
Who's working on the car?
I have Motown on it
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justbob
08-04-2016, 03:10 PM
Install a wastegate in the charge air plumbing, instead of changing the balancer.
Who's working on the car?
That's what I did. ^^
I didn't feel like playing with pullies. I can now make any boost I want from high teens to low 30's LOL.
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lifespeed
08-04-2016, 05:46 PM
That's what I did. ^^
I didn't feel like playing with pullies. I can now make any boost I want from high teens to low 30's LOL.
Wouldn't that make it vent a lot of air at boost levels lower than the pulley ratio would otherwise produce?
justbob
08-04-2016, 08:06 PM
Wouldn't that make it vent a lot of air at boost levels lower than the pulley ratio would otherwise produce?
Yes. That's the whole intention. If I want only 19#'s of boost on 93 octane, I let it bleed off and shift at 6,000 RPM. If I want to run 110 octane and 26#'s I replace the spring with a solid piece of pipe and shift at 5,800 or so.
My car has never gotten the chance to go beyond that because the OEM Ford clutch can not support it past that point. I'd love to see what my real boost and hp are at 7,300 or so..
I use a Tial 50MM as a waste gate. It's mounted under the drivers side.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160805/4430c44e13595afae4407e7a05e2f2 34_thumb.jpg
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justbob
08-06-2016, 01:17 PM
Hey CJ, do you still have that wrong color Tial valve? If so, just mount it between the outlet of the intercooler and the MAF right behind the driving light and don't hook up a vacuum line. The whole idea is for the compressed air to blow it open, and to stay shut under normal operation.
You may have to order some different weight springs for dyno day. I got lucky with the one it came with. It starts opening at around 5#s IIRC then fully open immediately after. With mine fully open I'm still pushing between 19-20 at 5,800-6,200 RPMS depending on weather, so I'd imagine you'd want a lighter weight spring. Maybe not though, it depends on your current pulleys, plus your blower step up is way less than mine so you really can't compare to mine.
I'm glad I went this route. It gives you adjustability over the standard pulley swap and works perfect.
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cer0413
08-06-2016, 01:37 PM
Hey CJ, do you still have that wrong color Tial valve? If so, just mount it between the outlet of the intercooler and the MAF right behind the driving light and don't hook up a vacuum line. The whole idea is for the compressed air to blow it open, and to stay shut under normal operation.
You may have to order some different weight springs for dyno day. I got lucky with the one it came with. It starts opening at around 5#s IIRC then fully open immediately after. With mine fully open I'm still pushing between 19-20 at 5,800-6,200 RPMS depending on weather, so I'd imagine you'd want a lighter weight spring. Maybe not though, it depends on your current pulleys, plus your blower step up is way less than mine so you really can't compare to mine.
I'm glad I went this route. It gives you adjustability over the standard pulley swap and works perfect.
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Yes I do have it. The car is now a 8rib accessory drive due to the 18% innovators west OD crank. I did speak with Roger regarding the wasegate but he informed me that it's usage is for a turbo setup and it could possibly damage the blower. I will talk to him about the extra bov valve route. Thanks JB. [emoji106]
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cer0413
08-15-2016, 04:45 PM
Stopped in the "D" to check on the build.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/eed40a178490da8108cebea93959fc ab.jpg
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cer0413
08-15-2016, 04:45 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/5c35d00c0778b3ecbfae176fde6daa bc.jpg
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cer0413
08-15-2016, 04:46 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/49eba9c9b0098fbd7ce9f718c887f2 85.jpg
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cer0413
08-15-2016, 04:47 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/2a6c5367ce0c1a0331721f00b74e21 5f.jpg
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cer0413
08-15-2016, 04:48 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/dbe7f2426444b82e7d06ccfce61a7e 1f.jpg
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RubberCtyRauder
08-15-2016, 05:11 PM
Lookin good !!!
MOTOWN
08-15-2016, 05:27 PM
Im going to confiscate your camera!
cer0413
08-15-2016, 07:04 PM
Lookin good !!!
His head or the engine?
Im going to confiscate your camera!
I didnt take those..[emoji18]
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lji372
08-15-2016, 07:29 PM
Im going to confiscate your camera!
I agree, evidence of actual work being done will not be tolerated :banned:
8UWITH6
08-15-2016, 08:14 PM
Why is your grill missing a bar?
lifespeed
08-15-2016, 08:14 PM
Yes. That's the whole intention. If I want only 19#'s of boost on 93 octane, I let it bleed off and shift at 6,000 RPM. If I want to run 110 octane and 26#'s I replace the spring with a solid piece of pipe and shift at 5,800 or so.
You used crankshaft horsepower to compress that air, unlike a turbo wastegate. Maybe not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things.
justbob
08-15-2016, 08:26 PM
You used crankshaft horsepower to compress that air, unlike a turbo wastegate. Maybe not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things.
That means nothing when the whole intention is to dump excess power and stay just south of the ragged edge.
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cer0413
08-15-2016, 08:31 PM
Why is your grill missing a bar?
Wish i knew. All I know is, once the car is back with me, im doing a complete overhaul of the exterior. It won't be no more sitting without a cover. Why we're on the subject, gotta grill?
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lji372
08-15-2016, 08:45 PM
gotta grill?
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Just one? :shake: :banana2: :banana2: :banana2: :banana2:
cer0413
08-15-2016, 09:03 PM
Just one? :shake: :banana2: :banana2: :banana2: :banana2:
Is it D....T.......R lol
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ChiTownMaraud3r
08-15-2016, 09:08 PM
Paint it Ford ruby red.
cer0413
09-03-2016, 07:31 PM
Dyno tune next Friday!!!!!!
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justbob
09-04-2016, 07:13 AM
Dyno tune next Friday!!!!!!
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Awesome man!
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champ1173
09-04-2016, 02:11 PM
Dyno tune next Friday!!!!!!
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I'm getting a chubby
justbob
09-04-2016, 02:25 PM
I'm getting a chubby
Prove it. [emoji4]
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cer0413
09-04-2016, 06:22 PM
Prove it. [emoji4]
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Nooooooooooo lol
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lji372
09-04-2016, 06:45 PM
Dyno tune next Friday!!!!!!
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Prove it! :D
cer0413
09-04-2016, 06:47 PM
Prove it! :D
It's a long shot but I have faith
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RacerX
09-04-2016, 07:16 PM
It's a long shot but I have faith
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A long shot? You'll put her eye out! Pics or it didn't happen! :D
cer0413
09-05-2016, 01:37 PM
A long shot? You'll put her eye out! Pics or it didn't happen! :D
😂😂😂
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justbob
09-05-2016, 06:17 PM
A long shot? You'll put her eye out! Pics or it didn't happen! :D
You would need at minimum an iPad..
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ChiTownMaraud3r
09-05-2016, 07:50 PM
I'm going to pee myself I'm so excited.
8UWITH6
09-06-2016, 07:19 PM
Bro, do you even Marauder?
cer0413
09-06-2016, 07:28 PM
Bro, do you even Marauder?
Does 40 miles driven this year count?
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lji372
09-06-2016, 09:42 PM
Does sitting in the driver seat while it's being hauled around michigan count? :confused:
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Fixed it for you birthday boy :party:
cer0413
09-16-2016, 11:42 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/aac62db39d77e067bf0d635519c164 7c.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/95203b864efd8db462b9d5b6749df0 cf.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/f55aad0626c9f62175f8eec023159a df.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/db3e98ba177c5874f8b825e26c682d 29.jpg
Down to a couple of things.
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Marauderjack
09-16-2016, 02:21 PM
Installing that small idler pulley is REAL FUN ain't it???:mad2::argue:
Looks GREAT.....GOOD LUCK!!:beer:
Installing that small idler pulley is REAL FUN ain't it???:mad2::argue:
Looks GREAT.....GOOD LUCK!!:beer:
He cant even spell idler pulley
cer0413
09-17-2016, 06:23 AM
He cant even spell idler pulley
Now I can lol
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hotford
09-17-2016, 06:56 AM
look at that Dirty blower....................gonn a make some power.......
champ1173
09-17-2016, 07:30 AM
Looking good CJ! Hopefully you'll be able to drive it before the snow falls.
stevengerard
09-17-2016, 08:01 AM
getting closer.... all that anticipation
why is the blower on backwards?:rolleyes::D:D
cer0413
09-17-2016, 08:11 AM
getting closer.... all that anticipation
why is the blower on backwards?:rolleyes::D:D
Better not be lol
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cer0413
09-17-2016, 08:12 AM
look at that Dirty blower....................gonn a make some power.......
Hope so. Hopefully that innovators west boost me near 500 or above.
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justbob
09-17-2016, 12:26 PM
Decided against the COT risers?
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cer0413
09-17-2016, 12:29 PM
Decided against the COT risers?
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No I didn't actually. The Coolant temperature sensor and the supplied cooling mod was a factor. I plan on replacing the over head cooling mod with a traditional behind the block cooling mod in the future so I can go back to the cot tube.
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cer0413
10-09-2016, 05:32 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/46110a1203581b0953188ef2748404 86.jpg
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8UWITH6
10-09-2016, 07:51 AM
Take off your wheels and tires and scuff and paint that frame bro.
Lowndex
10-09-2016, 08:54 AM
Following your engine rebuild project, I am envious and in awe. A dream is coming true.
cer0413
10-10-2016, 05:13 AM
Following your engine rebuild project, I am envious and in awe. A dream is coming true.
Thanks man and I hope yours get done as well.
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cer0413
11-06-2016, 12:50 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161106/5ff296b823693f5c25ce14cf3f09a9 3c.jpg
Done product. Needs a touch up
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