Oil pressure gauge swap

[510paesan]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/ccea08c812edd4a76bfdcdc3955079 3b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/3d3b84c119fb728bba82a8318917d8 14.jpg
Well that was tedious... Wish me luck!


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[fordnut02]

did mine a few weeks ago , love the result of a working guage

[blkZooM]

Well that was a great read.


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[fastblackmerc]

Install green LED bulbs so you don't make that burned spot any bigger.

[fastblackmerc]

Well that was a great read.


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The how-to is posted elsewhere.

[blkZooM]

I know that but I thought I was going to read more than that at least.


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[510paesan]

Install green LED bulbs so you don't make that burned spot any bigger.



Jim, can you please pm the p/n LED you would use?

[BAD MERC]

I just did mine, too! the swap was extremely simple but the difference visually is almost indistinguishable UNTIL you turn the lights on. I did the face swap, too and although it was tedious it only requires patience and common sense.

[Svashtar]

I don’t get it, sorry. Face swap for what? I followed Wes Chain’s how to 12 years ago or so and got a working real OP gauge without changing anything.

I would be interested in LED’s for my 3 gauges; I think the colored sleeve I had on the tranny temp gauge off gassed and slightly fogged the lens I wrote about. That bulb is on as long as the car is and gets very hot.

FYI, I moved the cigarette lighter to the side, and have OP, Voltage and tranny temp in a row, with green, white and red lighting. Looks good, and not too bright.


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[fastblackmerc]

I don’t get it, sorry. Face swap for what? I followed Wes Chain’s how to 12 years ago or so and got a working real OP gauge without changing anything.

I would be interested in LED’s for my 3 gauges; I think the colored sleeve I had on the tranny temp gauge off gassed and slightly fogged the lens I wrote about. That bulb is on as long as the car is and gets very hot.

FYI, I moved the cigarette lighter to the side, and have OP, Voltage and tranny temp in a row, with green, white and red lighting. Looks good, and not too bright.


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The face swap is swapping the face from the OEM gauge with the face of real gauge so the gauges look the same. You also need to change out the sending unit.

IMHO.... it is easier to change both gauges as most people will not know the difference.

PM me for info on the LEDs.

[Svashtar]

Thanks, I think I’m getting senile here. I did buy a new OP gauge and added the trans temp gauge, but left the Volts gauge stock.

That seemed to get everything matched up, so not quite sure why you would change both gauges?

As for the sending unit, IIRC I just followed the instructions Wes from Innovative Interceptors posted here back then, and rewired the connection under the car and everything worked fine.

Here’s an attached pic of the 3 gauges, with the middle one stock:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171124/b210fb7923648dad69e11c8ed68023 d6.jpg

I appreciate the info on the LEDs and will PM. I guess it doesn’t hurt to have the trans temp light always on, but it does get hot.


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[justbob]

Sounds like you hooked up a keyed 12v power wire to the lighting wire on the gauge.

As for the reasoning on swapping the volt gauge, isn’t there a difference in one being only backlit (stock) and the replacement having the numbers and lines lit as well? It’s been awhile since I seen a stock gauge.


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[RF Overlord]

The stock gauge is back-lit through the numbers and the primary indicator lines. The replacements are perimeter-lit with a solid (opaque) face.

Norm, except for the tiny bit of black rubber glommed onto your trans temp gauge, your gauge pod looks identical to mine.

[BAD MERC]

This is what the swapped gauge looked like at night BEFORE the face swap. Essentially the only thing swapped was the internals and the sending unit. What the eyes now see is OE equipment on the surface.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r176/kennycoffey/20171110_173736_zpsb9bxrgbm.jp g (http://s144.photobucket.com/user/kennycoffey/media/20171110_173736_zpsb9bxrgbm.jp g.html)

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r176/kennycoffey/20171110_182159_zpsqyc4ut1d.jp g (http://s144.photobucket.com/user/kennycoffey/media/20171110_182159_zpsqyc4ut1d.jp g.html)

[Svashtar]

This is what the swapped gauge looked like at night BEFORE the face swap. Essentially the only thing swapped was the internals and the sending unit. What the eyes now see is OE equipment on the surface.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r176/kennycoffey/20171110_173736_zpsb9bxrgbm.jp g (http://s144.photobucket.com/user/kennycoffey/media/20171110_173736_zpsb9bxrgbm.jp g.html)

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r176/kennycoffey/20171110_182159_zpsqyc4ut1d.jp g (http://s144.photobucket.com/user/kennycoffey/media/20171110_182159_zpsqyc4ut1d.jp g.html)



Ok, thanks. Like I said, I’m getting senile. Now I recall, I installed the real OP from DR, and as soon as I saw they didn’t match picked up a matching Volts from online.

Your setup looks good, thanks for confirming!


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[Svashtar]

The stock gauge is back-lit through the numbers and the primary indicator lines. The replacements are perimeter-lit with a solid (opaque) face.

Norm, except for the tiny bit of black rubber glommed onto your trans temp gauge, your gauge pod looks identical to mine.


Thanks Bob. I left that there for when I take the pod out, so I can lay the assembly down without dinging that side of the gauge. I somehow stupidly dented that side of the bezel (those aluminum bezels are really easy to deform), and that covers the ding and keeps a buffer in place.

Something else I have to fix? That plastic on the area just above the pod scratches like crazy. Just touch it and something flakes off. I know they sell some paint that’s a close match, and someday I need to get everything off and paint it.


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[Red Rum]

When I bought my car. The owner had Dennis you know who. Put a real oil pump gauge. But as soon as I put boost. It blew 2 sending units. So I went Mechanical and now. She is working like a clock. But I see one of you got a trans gauge. And I think that is my next one to get.

[Svashtar]

Sounds like you hooked up a keyed 12v power wire to the lighting wire on the gauge.



You’re right Bob, I need to see if I can splice power over from the LCM controlled Volts gauge instead. I really don’t want it lit all the time.

[Lowndex]

I fixed mine, too.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/922/1loDYn.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm1loDYnj)