motor and trans removal tips

[lifespeed]

I have to remove the motor and trans. Last time I did this was 12 years ago in a 1997 Crown Vic.

Any specific tips on this job? Motor and trans separate? Motor first, support the trans with a jack? Leave the exhaust manifolds on, disconnect at the two-bolt flange? Lift strap attachment points on the engine (I have the tilting worm screw lift bar)? Is it reasonable to leave the A/C sealed, or should I go to the trouble (and expense) to pump it out first?

[justbob]

I yanked mine with the blower, headers, and full harness in only a couple of hours. I just used a strap and bolted it to an unused hole on the back of the head and the other end to one of the alternator bolts from what I remember.




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[lifespeed]

Is the crap "1000lb" engine stand at Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%2 52F%252F%252FUserSearch%253Den gine%252F%252F%252F%252FAutomo tive%2B%2526%2BMotorcycle%2F%2 F%2F%2FLifts+%26+Stands&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand&q=engine) adequate for short-term use? I have always used the 2000lb stands for big block Chevys.

[Filby'sMarauder]

I say yes. Mine was like this for a couple of weeks.

[Logizyme]

If you have a reason to remove the transmission, then remove it first. If there is no reason to remove the transmission, and your only goal is engine removal, I find it easier to leave the transmission in-car by loosening the trans mount nuts, sliding it back, and supporting the front with a floor jack.

[Zack]

The transmission does not need to slide back
Disconnect the AC and ps pump, set them aside
You will find it much easier to remove the 3 engine mount bolts from the block on each side, vs unbolting the mounts from the cradle
Easy peeeezy