Cracked Block!

[03M]

First off I am pleased to be apart of the MM forum, thanks all for having me.

My car is an 03 #6064.

After developing an engine misfire & discovering coolant in cylinder 2, I found my issue. The block is cracked:mad2:

My question is considering I found a decent teskid block F6LZ-6010-AB that didn't require cylinders to be bored out, using my stock heads and internals what mods would I have to consider or is it drop in and go?

[MOTOWN]

Your going to need new pistons , I would go with forged pistons, and rods while you have it apart , those are the weak links in the rotating assembly.

[CWright]

Your going to need new pistons , I would go with forged pistons, and rods while you have it apart , those are the weak links in the rotating assembly.

I agree. Build it back stronger.

[03M]

Thanks for your responses Motown & CWright. Since I have been given access to the forum I noticed I have the option to "search" and immediately began searching away after my initial post.

I've seen about 5 different performance crate engine & parts suppliers on different threads so far, engine weak links, and a huge debate about wether or not a cast crank is good above 500hp & beer. "hint hint" lol

I've seen decently priced short blocks in the 600hp range on on mmr & other sites however they have the iron block which I had hoped to avoid so it looks like I will be in search of a teskid block w/aftermarket forged rotating assembly.

Marauder/aviator/mach1 engines are around 1700-2300 used with over 100kmikes near me and I refuse to be the victim of a bad deal.

[sailsmen]

Have you found out what the cause is?

[03sport007]

I have engine avialable. Let me know

[03M]

Have you found out what the cause is?

No I haven't. Thing is, the engine had the long block replaced in 2014 by a local shop before I purchased the car. Car didn't knock or rattle not 1 bit and was very clean when I removed the heads.

I would have to look at the receipt for the details but I know it was around 2500 bucks or so.

I have yet to pull the short bock from the car and disassemble.

[justbob]

Why do you want avoid an iron block?


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[Joe Walsh]

Why do you want avoid an iron block?


They make good boat anchors.....:D

Personally, I'd take an aluminum TEKSID block over a cast iron block anytime.

BTW: I can, and have, found aluminum TEKSID blocks at local junkyards for $100.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Here is my take on it

If you want to stay non turbo/blower/nitrous just find a iron short block from a 05 ish mustang. You can buy a used short block 2 valve for 300.00 and bolt your 4v junk on it

Or find a wap long block, Mach 1 , aviator, marauder, and swap it under your hood, or used wap Mach 1 short block sell for 400 and they are 6 bolt crank like ours (AUTO) and manual are 8 bolt like the cobra. You can find 8 bolt flex plate on summit or jegs

If you buy a 500 or 600 capable hp shortblock and never boost it, your throwing money away

I would toss that block, find a wap block, rering it, new bearings, oil pump, new timing set ect if you never can boost it

If you want to boost it, buy a built shortblock from a vendor,.... It'll be a brand new iron block with forged junk and it'll be 3800.00 plus finishing up your heads, new timing set and about 8 G's for boost if you want plug and play

What are your GOALS???????????

[03M]

Why do you want avoid an iron block?


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The 80lbs. That's just where my head is now. I tend to go back and forth with my cars till i find maximum comfort in my decision :D:D

[03M]

Here is my take on it

If you want to stay non turbo/blower/nitrous just find a iron short block from a 05 ish mustang. You can buy a used short block 2 valve for 300.00 and bolt your 4v junk on it

Or find a wap long block, Mach 1 , aviator, marauder, and swap it under your hood, or used wap Mach 1 short block sell for 400 and they are 6 bolt crank like ours (AUTO) and manual are 8 bolt like the cobra. You can find 8 bolt flex plate on summit or jegs

If you buy a 500 or 600 capable hp shortblock and never boost it, your throwing money away

I would toss that block, find a wap block, rering it, new bearings, oil pump, new timing set ect if you never can boost it

If you want to boost it, buy a built shortblock from a vendor,.... It'll be a brand new iron block with forged junk and it'll be 3800.00 plus finishing up your heads, new timing set and about 8 G's for boost if you want plug and play

What are your GOALS???????????

I agree w/all of your statements except the 4th because of my lack of knowledge on these fords. So far I know the WAP weighs a tad less than the teskid block but are similar in hp limits. My question is what cars can I find them in and do they come in dohc configurations so I can use my timing cover? Do they accept the marauder heads or require any modding?

Heck my goal was just to get it back running as my driving experience with the car had been short lived. However as stated above used mach1/marauder/aviator engines Aren't as cheap as I thought so almost 2 grand for 1 is foolish in my opinion knowing my driving habits.

500 whp would be the initial goal.

[Ourobos]

You Marauder has a WAP block.. Most were in 4.6 Explorers and trucks.. Also Aviators, Marauders, Mach 1, and a few more.

[03M]

You Marauder has a WAP block.. Most were in 4.6 Explorers and trucks.. Also Aviators, Marauders, Mach 1, and a few more.

Duh right? My bad on the dud question, Bare w/me I will soak up all the info as fast as I can.

Ok so I will more than likely come across a WAP than a Teskid.

I did notice a few recent mark vIII's in inventory at my local pick n pulls so I will be checking those out as well.

Thanks again everyone for your input!
(Here's another pic of my ride will post more soon)

[FordNut]

Look for an Aviator engine. Swap the oil pan, pickup tube, valve covers, coolant tube(s), intake, exhaust from the Marauder. Inspect the cam chain tensioners to make sure they are the good ones. Sell your old heads and leftover Aviator parts after it's running again.

That should avoid a lot of work since it wouldn't require head removal.

[RubberCtyRauder]

500rwhp is going to cost $12-15k starting from scratch easily.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Nice silver birch! How many miles???

[Zack]

500rwhp is going to cost $12-15k starting from scratch easily.

No it wont. 6-7k tops

[RubberCtyRauder]

No it wont. 6-7k tops

with what set up and no engine?

[Zack]

with what set up and no engine?

I see your logic now. Carry on. ;)

[RubberCtyRauder]

I see your logic now. Carry on. ;)

Plus you can install it..I take for granted that most need a shop to do the labor $$

[RacerX]

See post #7: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=100925&highlight=block

[03M]

Look for an Aviator engine. Swap the oil pan, pickup tube, valve covers, coolant tube(s), intake, exhaust from the Marauder. Inspect the cam chain tensioners to make sure they are the good ones. Sell your old heads and leftover Aviator parts after it's running again.

That should avoid a lot of work since it wouldn't require head removal.

I responded to your statement last night but It looks like for some reason it didn't post.

Aviator/mach1 engines are 2k w/around 125k miles and I'd much rather purchase a new setup or build from the ground up.

If I find one less which I doubt it then I may pull the trigger

[03M]

Nice silver birch! How many miles???

Thanks Turbov6Bryan. 121k on the car. It's originally black and was painted SB by previous owner which I may undo at a later date.

[MOTOWN]

The way i see it you have two viable options , get a wap , or teksid block, and get busy , or buy a shortblock all ready to go.

[03M]

Plus you can install it..I take for granted that most need a shop to do the labor $$

12k-15k???? I will do my best to prove you wrong even though I am the newbie to marauders.

I do perform my own labor myself though so at least I will save a little.

[03M]

The way i see it you have two viable options , get a wap , or teksid block, and get busy , or buy a shortblock all ready to go.

That's the move Motown. BTW do you have and videos of your ride?

[RubberCtyRauder]

500 rwhp is not cheap to do on a mod motor. depends on which power adder you choose

[MOTOWN]

That's the move Motown. BTW do you have and videos of your ride?

A short dyno video on YouTube

[Turbov6Bryan]

See post #7: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=100925&highlight=block


Excellent advice, i thought it was standard 2v stuff(which works) but even a better heavier block is best (3v) Thank you for posting that.



I responded to your statement last night but It looks like for some reason it didn't post.

Aviator/mach1 engines are 2k w/around 125k miles and I'd much rather purchase a new setup or build from the ground up.

If I find one less which I doubt it then I may pull the trigger

You can find them for 1200.00 as a complete long block, do you need help finding one? What is your zip code? Aviator is the way to go, all you do is tear it down to a long block with chains and heads still on, swap over the oil pick up, pan, etc.... all the stuff around the long block.....

Why did that block crack there?
Just trying to help man. I passed on a mach 1 shortblock running condition for 275.00 im a dummy:shake:

[Turbov6Bryan]

A short dyno video on YouTube

C'mon peanut post it up

[MOTOWN]

C'mon peanut post it up

Here you go https://youtu.be/8zT0NOFrbec

[FordNut]

Heck my goal was just to get it back running as my driving experience with the car had been short lived. However as stated above used mach1/marauder/aviator engines Aren't as cheap as I thought so almost 2 grand for 1 is foolish in my opinion knowing my driving habits.


I read this ^^^
and replied with that vvvv


Look for an Aviator engine. Swap the oil pan, pickup tube, valve covers, coolant tube(s), intake, exhaust from the Marauder. Inspect the cam chain tensioners to make sure they are the good ones. Sell your old heads and leftover Aviator parts after it's running again.

That should avoid a lot of work since it wouldn't require head removal.



Aviator/mach1 engines are 2k w/around 125k miles and I'd much rather purchase a new setup or build from the ground up.


It'll be at least double that to build one. And it will take a lot of driving opportunities away. Maybe you'll get to drive it again this year if you do a full build... but probably not.

[Turbov6Bryan]

I read this ^^^
and replied with that vvvv






It'll be at least double that to build one. And it will take a lot of driving opportunities away. Maybe you'll get to drive it again this year if you do a full build... but probably not.


And this is why we say buy a built shortblock and your ready to go in 2 weeks.

Just giving you a heads up OP

You can rebuild it, why do it stock?
Upgrade the bottom end and your out 6 months

Buy a motor to drive it now, build another motor and your back in bidness sooner.

More than one way to skin a cat.....

[WPG_Merc]

Here you go https://youtu.be/8zT0NOFrbec

Nice Vid & HP #s MOTOWN. :beer:
I'll be back there for more mods soon.

I am also researching into forging my stock block after the car season.:burnout:

[Ourobos]

I'm picking up a built to the gill Teksid short block from the machine shop soon I hope. I've changed plans and won't be using it, I'm gonna stick with my current power level. I'll be asking $3900 if that helps you figure out what they go for. This is 800+ capable FYI

[03M]

See post #7: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=100925&highlight=block

Good stuff RacerX

[03M]

Here you go https://youtu.be/8zT0NOFrbec


Smh. One day......when xmas. Thanksgiving, New Years fall on the same day:D

One great lookin set up

[03M]

I'm picking up a built to the gill Teksid short block from the machine shop soon I hope. I've changed plans and won't be using it, I'm gonna stick with my current power level. I'll be asking $3900 if that helps you figure out what they go for. This is 800+ capable FYI

Thanks Ourobos I'll keep that in mind