View Full Version : Reische 170* Thermostat........
Marauderjack
06-22-2016, 08:44 AM
I have been running a 188* thermostat for years and have been running higher than desired engine temps when the Ambient is over 100* while I'm running the AC!!:cool:
I have seen as high as 235* several years ago (Ambient was 106*) and just a couple weeks ago saw 216* in traffic with Ambient of only 97*!!:eek:
I installed a Reische 170* stat today and refilled the system.......started the car and idled until 150* then turned it off and topped up the coolant!! The stat opened at 170 according to ScanGauge II so I took a drive!!:beer:
At 85* Ambient and the AC going I saw 200* at 65 MPH and when I turned the AC off it dropped back to 196*-198* so my initial thinking is it made little or no difference in engine temp and the "Cooling System" is designed to remove "X amount" of BTU's when it reaches equilibrium and that's that??:confused:
I'll report more findings as time goes on but for now I'm not too impressed!! :(
Now it will probably run too cold in Winter.....we'll see??:shake:
CWright
06-22-2016, 08:47 AM
That's odd it's running a little high with the Reisch. I have it in mine and the hottest I've seen is 193 with ambient at 101*. I'm sure others will chime in with what could be causing this. I usually stay in the 170's with 85-95* days.
fastblackmerc
06-22-2016, 08:49 AM
I run a 170 Reisch also. Did you change your tune (when fan comes on) per their specs?
From Reisch's website:
Additional Cooling System Improvements
It is important that the fan settings in your tune are set up properly to see the best possible heat dissipation from your cooling system. Otherwise a low temp thermostat will only be effective when the vehicle is moving because heat cannot be removed unless there is air passing through the radiator. Typically with our 170° thermostat installed your cooling fan(s) should be set to turn on between 184-190° and shut off between 176-182°, if not then re-flash your tune with the appropriate settings.
Water transfers heat more effectively than antifreeze so we recommend using the lowest concentration of antifreeze possible for your climate along with a product like Redline Water Wetter. Just make sure you have enough antifreeze in your coolant to keep it from freezing in the winter and always run no less than 20% in a street car. We do not recommend adding Water Wetter to coolant that is more than 40% antifreeze.
Reisch website link: http://www.reischeperformance.com/tstatinfo.html
MOTOWN
06-22-2016, 09:13 AM
I have a 170* thermostat as well, i talked with Reisch for 30 minutes about the cooling system, he stated the thermostat is just one small piece of the cooling system , the fans need to come about 5* after the thermostat opens, and the fan (s) have to be strong enough to pull the heat off the radiator, in my case i have two Spal 12" extreme duty fans , on a custom built aluminum radiator, my car runs around 175 to 181 degrees in 90* - 100* ambient temps.
The thermostats only job is to open at the speced temp , the rest is on the radiator /fan this summer weather lets you know exactly how effective your cooling system really is.
Marauderjack
06-22-2016, 09:23 AM
Well guys.....with the AC on the radiator fan runs constantly so that's how I tested it!! I do have a tune with modified fan parameters but I wanna first test it against the same conditions the 188* stat had to deal with!!;)
Also, my intercooler is in front of the AC condenser which of course is in front of the radiator along with the trans cooler and today the intercooler was showing IAT's in the 115* range!!;)
All of that combined must overwhelm the radiator and OEM fan??:confused:
The day I saw 235* I simply turned off the AC and it dropped back fairly quickly!!:beer:
babbage
06-22-2016, 10:29 AM
Hmm, my Reische 170 works very well. My coolant temps are 180-190F in ambient 85-90F. At 50-60F ambient the MM temp stays at 175F all day long.
Definitely a big change for me over stock t-stat. I do also have the EMP Water pump.
S/C engines tend to run hotter.
Marauderjack
06-22-2016, 10:33 AM
BTW....I also have the EMP Stewart water pump and it never showed me anything over the OEM one except the impeller was real purty!!:beer:
My OEM had 100K miles on it and was doing fine....the EMP Stewart now has 166K miles on it and it's still working well!!;)
justbob
06-22-2016, 01:44 PM
Odd indeed unless you still have a small air pocket. Like others stated, mine stays pretty much at 178* at most any temp, A/C or not. But my radiator isn't stock and has been lowered along with the bottom kicked back a few inches with all factory air dams removed. My fan runs constant as I've yet to find the cause.
Have you pulled the radiator back and checked in between it, the trans cooler, and the condenser? A couple of years ago I literally had a 1/2" thick blanket in mine thanks to cottonwood trees!
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Marauderjack
06-22-2016, 02:37 PM
I drove it 40 miles at 60-65 with AC on half the time.......206* with 94*-96* Ambient....not too bad!! Before it would likely be 210* or so but neither temp is a problem!!:shake:
The only other thing is I have a ProCharger and the OEM fan is upside down and I've heard it's not quite as efficient upside down??:confused:
When I left home I turned the AC on and it took 8 miles to exceed 200* (much longer than before).....when I turned the AC off it cooled from 206* to 198* within 3 miles....lowest I saw was 196* without the AC.........still 94* Ambient!!:cool:
BTW......IAT was 114*-118* which probably means the intercooler exhausting onto the radiator is 120*+.......maybe??:confused:
I'll put the tune in with the fan coming on at 184* to see if that helps but it's on ALL THE TIME anyway with the AC on so I doubt it will make any difference??!!;)
I really think it's better but not a lot......we'll see what town driving at 100*+ shows....sooner than I wanna see it!!:(
babbage
06-22-2016, 02:43 PM
try cleaning radiator like justbob said, remove fan shroud and hose it from inside out. lint and bugs and crap clog its efficiency.
Marauderjack
06-22-2016, 03:01 PM
I did that 3 months (700 miles) ago when I installed the new FORD fan!!:beer:
Marauderjack
07-08-2016, 06:43 AM
I put a tune in with fan coming on at 180* but really saw no difference with the AC on.......198* with ambient of 84*......not bad but certainly not 180*!!:shake: I turned the AC off and coolant temps dropped to 184*-190* depending on engine speed!!:beer:
Keep in mind I have minimum IAT's of 100*-105* so the intercooler is at least that hot......trans cooler and AC condenser ALL in front of the radiator and my fan is upside down for the ProCharger to fit!! :cool:
Maybe it just ain't gonna do no better??:eek::shake:
BTW....ALL temp readings are from my ScanGauge II and I assume it's accurate??:confused:
lifespeed
07-08-2016, 10:15 AM
I think the fact that you can increase the coolant temp by turning on the AC points towards limited airflow through the radiator. A larger radiator might work well with the EMP pump to make better use of what air is available.
I'm not sure what you can do about airflow with that intercooler up front, but I suspect more airflow (not fan, just flowing through from the car's forward motion) would really help, and may be part of the issue. You do still have that plastic air dam flap under the radiator support, right?
Edit: Speaking of the air dam under the radiator support, check out this post from TurboV6Bryan (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1506381#post1 506381):
Marauderjack
07-08-2016, 10:25 AM
Air Dam has been gone since 2005.....could tell no difference with or without it!!:shake:
sailsmen
07-08-2016, 11:21 AM
The air dam does make a difference in the ~20mph to ~40mph. This is a transition between the air flow by the fans and thru the front grill.
I can assure you Ford did not put the part on to raise their cost in the Marauder.
babbage
07-08-2016, 02:22 PM
Air Dam has been gone since 2005.....could tell no difference with or without it!!:shake:
just found your overhearing problem!
Marauderjack
07-08-2016, 02:31 PM
just found your overhearing problem!
Sitting still is when it gets hot......moving it's OK so how the heck have you found a problem pray tell???:rolleyes:
BTW.....210* in 100*+ weather ain't what I consider overheating!!:shake:
sailsmen
07-08-2016, 02:33 PM
Removing your grill may drop temps ~7* while sitting still.
babbage
07-08-2016, 02:52 PM
Sitting still is when it gets hot......moving it's OK so how the heck have you found a problem pray tell???:rolleyes:
BTW.....210* in 100*+ weather ain't what I consider overheating!!:shake:
put the airdam back on...
justbob
07-08-2016, 03:17 PM
All my air dams are long gone. Cools perfectly well with the radiator lowered and raked with the added shroud/fan Combo.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/3308f507199f30de6942b619643ad8 29.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160708/9eec4b3e397a0cda203cd83fd40c2e e2.jpg
I think just a better universal shroud (make your own hole) and higher RPM fan and you'll be fine.
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Marauderjack
07-08-2016, 04:06 PM
Air dam was/is useless IMHO so forgedaboudit!!:rolleyes:
sailsmen
07-08-2016, 08:30 PM
reischeperformance.com/
Most people think a larger radiator will improve the capacity of the cooling system but a big factor that is often overlooked is airflow. Increasing airflow will have a dramatic effect on the cooling ability of any radiator which is why most choose to do so when prepping a vehicle for race use. Some common ways to get more air through the radiator are:
Increase the size of the lower air dam
Box in the radiator to force air to flow through it and not around it
Additional hood and fascia vents
Additional or more powerful cooling fans
This is also why you never want to remove or obstruct the lower air dam on a modern vehicle. Not to mention it will reduce the life of the radiator fan(s) and could even cause overheating.
Water transfers heat more effectively than antifreeze so we recommend using the lowest concentration of antifreeze possible for your climate along with a product like Redline Water Wetter. Just make sure you have enough antifreeze in your coolant to keep it from freezing in the winter and always run no less than 20% in a street car. We do not recommend adding Water Wetter to coolant that is more than 40% antifreeze.
babbage
07-09-2016, 07:11 AM
another option is the Evans waterless coolant. 375f boil point. $45 per gallon, and prep coolant - to get water all out - $32 per gallon.
anyone try this?
Marauderjack
07-09-2016, 08:46 AM
Most users of Evans Waterless Coolant end up saying this!!
"After giving Evans a chance and in observation of others. What is the best way to remove and/or flush out Evans from the system to convert back to a water based coolant? Engine temps way too hot, oil temp up as well and oil pressure drops. Maybe OK, but not taking any chances."
It is 100% Ethylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol or mixtures of the two......thermal transfer is much worse than water!!:shake:
RF Overlord
07-09-2016, 09:06 AM
100% water has the best thermal transfer. The reason we need to add "coolant" is to protect it from freezing and to provide corrosion protection and lubricate the water pump. Areas that never see below 32° can use down to a 70/30 mix.
Marauderjack
07-09-2016, 09:41 AM
Glycol coolant in water also raises the Boiling Point Bob!!:beer:
Marauderjack
08-01-2016, 02:46 PM
Ran to town today (12 miles) in stop and go traffic with the AC going in 96* ambient temp (IAT was 127*) and coolant temp slowly went to 220* so just for kicks I turned off the AC!!:cool:
Within 5 minutes the coolant temp fell to 193* and held there except during acceleration when it went to 197* so the heat from the AC condenser adds almost 30* to the coolant!!:eek:
Not sure what, if anything, to do from here since I don't want to move the intercooler or replace the radiator.......so.....guess I'll just live with it!!:rolleyes:
lifespeed
08-01-2016, 03:34 PM
It appears you know where to put your effort$ if/when it becomes too much of an issue.
RF Overlord
08-01-2016, 05:19 PM
Glycol coolant in water also raises the Boiling Point Bob!!:beer:As does the 16 lbs of pressure.
sailsmen
08-01-2016, 07:46 PM
Ran to town today (12 miles) in stop and go traffic with the AC going in 96* ambient temp (IAT was 127*) and coolant temp slowly went to 220* so just for kicks I turned off the AC!!:cool:
Within 5 minutes the coolant temp fell to 193* and held there except during acceleration when it went to 197* so the heat from the AC condenser adds almost 30* to the coolant!!:eek:
Not sure what, if anything, to do from here since I don't want to move the intercooler or replace the radiator.......so.....guess I'll just live with it!!:rolleyes:
I see this all the time during Summer.
Marauderjack
08-02-2016, 02:10 AM
As does the 16 lbs of pressure.
Yeppers!!:up::up:
Marauderjack
08-15-2016, 02:27 AM
Just for the record I found out on another site that the AC condenser can reach 250* on HOT days!!:eek:
That plus the Intercooler and Trans fluid cooler just apply so much heat the radiator is overwhelmed!!:cool:
Solution.....don't worry about it or turn the AC OFF!!:beer:
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