Best replacement Spark Plug Wires ?

[Dan19063]

Car just hit 103,000 figured time to change the stock plugs. Searched the site to see what was recommended and ordered the NGK 4177 TR6 plugs from Amazon (2 packs of 4) for $20.00 free shipping. Thought I would change the plug wires also but, I couldn't find anyone's input on replacement plug wire sets. Car has Lidio's 3.55 93Oct tune and a K&N cold air intake otherwise stock.

Any thoughts on wire sets?

[MOTOWN]

Have you looked under the hood lately?

[RubberCtyRauder]

no distributor, no plug wires. search coil on plug and get motorcraft ones

[Dan19063]

Have you looked under the hood lately?

Yeah I know they aren't wires per say. Coil-On-Plug Connectors or whatever is that better.

Were you born an :censor: or did you get a degree in it ?

[MOTOWN]

Yeah I know they aren't wires per say. Coil-On-Plug Connectors or whatever is that better.

Where you born an :censor: or did you get a degree in it ?

Actually i wasn't trying to be sarcastic , but sense you want to be an azz :censor:you!

[Dan19063]

Actually i wasn't trying to be sarcastic , but sense you want to be an azz :censor:you!


I apologize if I took it wrong but, It really looked like you were trying to be. Not like you added a recommendation after your "non sarcastic" :rolleyes: reply

[justbob]

It's related to a car on a car site, so either know what your talking about or grab a tissue. It's called sarcasm, and some questions generate the best.

Lighten up! [emoji1303]


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[Dan19063]

It's related to a car on a car site, so either know what your talking about or grab a tissue. It's called sarcasm, and some questions generate the best.

Lighten up! [emoji1303]


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This site is for information for people. Maybe all people who come to look for info might not be as technically savvy as others. My fault was I worded it wrong. Im not crying about it, I just think its a Lame response to a question.

[tbone]

This site is for information for people. Maybe all people who come to look for info might not be as technically savvy as others. My fault was I worded it wrong. Im not crying about it, I just think its a Lame response to a question.

And you are correct.

[Lowndex]

AMEN. Why a few feel they must feel superior by insulting others is beyond me.

But, you are a dipstick for the wording. Gotcha! :)

Signed,
Another dipstick

Seriously, lighten up or you will get your ass handed to you here. Just saying from experience.

[RubberCtyRauder]

coil on plug for ford is like 20 years in the past already. so its not like new technology.

[daddyusmaximus]

Lets save the personal attacks for the presidential candidates' election commercials. I'm a smart ass too, but it doesn't really translate well to print. Maybe if we adopt some sort of code... One gun site I'm on has an unwritten rule, all sarcasm is to be done in purple. Other than that, I think if we could agree that some people here are not that car savy, and just looking to learn.


Just saying...

[martyo]

It's related to a car on a car site, so either know what your talking about or grab a tissue.

I use tissues for certain websites but this isn't one of them.

[martyo]

no distributor, no plug wires. search coil on plug and get motorcraft ones

Problem solved.

[Ourobos]

Damn all these replies and no gurus have even answered the question.. To concerned with flexing their ego muscles I guess?

I like the NGK-TR6, or Motorcraft replacement. Make SURE to torque them to spec. regardless.

[martyo]

Damn all these replies and no gurus have even answered the question.. To concerned with flexing their ego muscles I guess?

I like the NGK-TR6, or Motorcraft replacement. Make SURE to torque them to spec. regardless.

As I read it, he had the plug issue squared away and even referred to buying them. That is why I did not comment on the plugs.

Rubbercity gave good advice on the coil packs in post #3 and I echoed his sentiments.

[Ourobos]

Good, must have read it too quickly. :)

[RubberCtyRauder]

I use tissues for certain websites but this isn't one of them.

That's MOre info than I needed :D

[daddyusmaximus]

That's MOre info than I needed :D

Lol, I'm getting old. I didn't take it that way until I read this.

[Spectragod]

Make sure you blow the plug wells out with an air nozzle before removing the plugs.

[J-MAN]

Damn all these replies and no gurus have even answered the question.. To concerned with flexing their ego muscles I guess?

I like the NGK-TR6, or Motorcraft replacement. Make SURE to torque them to spec. regardless.

Many are more concerned about which oil to use. :confused:

[Gryphonzus]

Thank You Spectragod for the hint on blowing out the plug slots before removing them.:bows:

[fastblackmerc]

TR6 plugs.

[fastblackmerc]

This should be a sticky in the DIY forum.


TOOLS:
Spark plug socket – 3/8 drive x 5/8 with rubber grip insert
3/8 drive 10 inch extension
3/8 inch drive ratchet wrench
3/8 drive torque wrench 25-250 inch pound range
Spark plug gap tool, blade style with gap adjustment feature
3/8 inch drive 10 mm socket
Anti-seize compound (not grease)
Silicone dielectric grease
RTV sealer (black)
Spark Plugs

Engine must be cold. It’s an aluminum block so be careful not to strip out the threads in the plug wells. Use a vacuum or compressed air to clean out any debris from the spark plug wells, you don’t want anything falling into the cylinders. Excessive oil in the spark plug wells should be addressed as it may cause intermittent misfires.

Change one plug at a time, There are no big spark plugs wires just a coil on plug assembly (COP) on each plug with a two wire electrical connector, a small transformer and a spring assembly (this is one unit that connects directly to the top of the spark plug and looks like a big ball point pen spring).

Check the gap on the plugs and regap if needed. Stock gap is around .052-.056 range. If you are running any type of forced induction your gap will most likely be different.

Remove the COP cover on the bank of cylinders you’ll be working on. This is the flat metal over on top of the larger cam covers. Two 10MM bolts hold this on. The COP covers have a small gasket embedded in a groove. Make sure this is intact and in good condition.

You will now see the COPs. Remove the electrical connector by depressing the tang on the plastic body. Do not break this connector tang.

Remove the COP by pulling straight up, this may take a little effort since the spring is a friction fit over the top of the plug and the boot may have sealed itself to the spark plug insulator. Use two hands, one to hold the COP body and the other to pull up on the spring assembly. Try not to stretch the spring assembly. (now is a good time to upgrade the OEM “springs” to the more robust Granatelli COP connectors, P/N: 28-1814S or 28-1705S).

Fit your 3/8 ratchet, 10 inch extension and 5/8 inch socket together. Place this into the well and over the spark plug. Feel that the socket has engaged the plug and loosen the plug (this may take a few sharp blows with your palm to “break loose” the plug). Maintain a firm downward pressure on the tool string to keep from stripping the socket or plug and remove the plug. There may be some points where the plug is harder to turn (due to carbon on the spark plug threads) but keep the pressure on and continue turning until the plug is removed.

Inspect the plug to see if the tip is a tan color and there is no mechanical damage such as metal beads or burnt off electrode. All the plugs should be very similar in color and condition. It's usually a good idea to lay the plugs side-by-side in the order you remove them so you can see their condition relative to the other plugs. The plugs on #7 and #8 cylinders (closest to the firewall on the driver’s side) may be harder to break free because they get the hottest (you can prevent this from happening in the future by installing the rear head cooling mod available from Zack MercuryMarauder.net member or commercially).

Verifying the gap is good on the spark plug, fit the plug into the socket and extension assembly (don’t use the ratchet or torque wrench at this time as it may cause you to strip the threads), place a small dab of anti-seize on the threads (don’t get any on the plug tip), place the extension, socket and plug into the well and start threading the plug by hand. After the plug has been threaded in a few turn by hand, attach the ratchet and begin tightening the plug until the plug is snug.

Replace the ratchet with the torque wrench which should be set to 132-156 inch pounds, (that’s 11-13 foot lbs) and tighten until the wrench clicks. Do not over or under torque the plug.

After placing a dab of the silicone dielectric grease on the opening of the COP boot, replace the COP by positioning the spring assembly over the spark plug on push down until you feel that the spring is firmly gripping the spark plug.

Reconnect the electrical connector making sure the tang clicks on the COP side of the connection.

Repeat until all the plugs are changed. Reinstall the COP cover after installing a small amount of the RTV sealer at the rear of the cover to insure there is no water intrusion where the wiring harness enters. Tighten the 10mm cover bolts.

That's it!

[lji372]

motorcraft or ngk plugs (if n/a, if supercharged go with ngk) and fomoco coil packs are the most reliable from my experience and research.

[Dan19063]

Update on the plug install.

OK so, did these yesterday for first time at 104,000. As you can see by one of the pics the last plug on drivers side. The plug well was full of oil. I'm guessing after some research that I'm going to need new valve cover gaskets and plug seals to remedy this problem. Am I correct in that assumption?

Also while doing this I noticed that the coil boots were barely on the plugs (Just took 2 fingers to remove all the boots). I was having no misfires or rough idle. After replacing the plugs, the boots would not clip or stick on to the plugs. They were kinda just sitting on the plug until I put the coil cover back in place. I did notice that the top of each coil had a gouge from the rubber on the coil cover that sits over each coil. This is fine I assume? The car ran fine with no rough idle after the install

[tbone]

You need the O rings that go on the spark plug well where the valve cover meets the head. They come with the valve cover gasket kit. You need to remove the nut (19mm) on the passenger side motor mount and jack up the engine to get the PS valve cover off. You may just want to do the drivers side and leave the passenger side alone until there is an issue.
It's a PITA.

[justbob]

18 mm ^^

As for the loose fit, the stock coils have a spring that just buts up to the plug. They don't physically snap on, more like just rest on them. Make sure there is no cracking on the boots.


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