Won't start after short drive (14 mi.)

[Jolly Roger]

So here the story,
I go for a short drive them come home and park.
When I go to restart the car it won't start (not even a click from the starter) just nothing.
Fast flashing from the PATS light on the dash when key is turned to the on position but only sometimes.
Been to the stealership 3 times (pockets now on empty) to have the keys, PATS transmitter, and PCM replaced with no satisfaction.
Problem still exists.
Problem has been ongoing for the past 5 or 6 weeks.
Anyone else had this problem and if so what was your fix?:(
Thanks in advance.;)

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Have you tried starting it in Neutral for the heck of it?

[Turbov6Bryan]

I'd ask dealer for money back since they threw a bunch of parts at it and didn't fix it

Might verify if PCM is getting voltage

Make sure all wires are good inside the fuse box under the hood, then check to see if you have a broken wire from fuse panel up to harness going into car below master cylinder

Common for the harness to break around bumper area

[fastblackmerc]

Check all the cables from the battery for clean, tight connections. Have you had the battery and starter tested? Most FLAPS will do it for you for free.

Remove all the relays, circuit breakers and fuses from the battery junction box (under the hood and behind the battery). Clean the contacts of the relays and make sure your getting good contact in the junction box.

[1Marauder]

Do all above...

Do you have headlights? Brake lights?? Just no start?


Turn key and listen for a soft muffled "click." Have to listen hard.

Had your issues, and it ended up being an $18.00 relay/fuse in same box mentioned above.

I was "HOT" for three weeks about it until I calmed down and read and reread, and then did all of the suggestions in the response threads from guys above. When I get home I will look up the fuse/plug/switch for you.

On plane now--searching is slow--but you can search my threads--I think FastBlackMerc above helped save me last time.

[fastblackmerc]

Do all above...

Do you have headlights? Brake lights?? Just no start?


Turn key and listen for a soft muffled "click." Have to listen hard.

Had your issues, and it ended up being an $18.00 relay/fuse in same box mentioned above.

I was "HOT" for three weeks about it until I calmed down and read and reread, and then did all of the suggestions in the response threads from guys above. When I get home I will look up the fuse/plug/switch for you.

On plane now--searching is slow--but you can search my threads--I think FastBlackMerc above helped save me last time.

# 302 Starter relay - swap it with #304.

I replaced ALL the relays in the junction box. There is a finite amount of times that they will work (cycle on & off). With the amount of miles on these cars I bet most of them are reaching the end of their life.

If any one needs relays I can get them them for you for much less than $18.00 each.

[1Marauder]

Found it...

From FastBlackMerc--who was my hero.... Here was my solution:

First off, thank you all of you for assistance. I did do everything I could get to, and almost everything you suggested first thing this AM. I was on the road all week and flew home last night, so this was as fast as I could get to it.

Great team giving great advice. Following-up, or as the great Paul Harvey used to say, "The RRRRest of the story!"

I must be honest--this morning with sleep in my eyes and only on my second cup of coffee -- I cussed the car out, and told it (truthfully) that if it didnt want to start--it didn't really want me as its owner.

I then switched out/exchanged the starter relay from 302 to 304 (thank you FastBleckMerc), and Bam(!) it started with ease on the first turn!

I backed it out, let it warm up for 10 minutes, put Stabil in tank, drove and filled it with gas (never turned it off), drove it like a wildman for an hour, stopped at local Ford Dealer and bought a new relay (letting it idle the whole time), made an appointment to have the starter checked, and drove it back to storage driveway (again, letting it idle). I then tapped (maybe a little more forceful than a tap) on the Starter six or seven times, and pulled it back into the tight fit storage.

Turned it off. Replaced /switched out relays again, pulled 304, put 302 back into 304, and the new relay in 302... And it started right up. The sound and tone of starter engaging was much "higher toned" and "lighter sounding" and "easier" than I ever recalled it being, so I started the cold dormant Silver sitting right next to it to compare--and they sounded the exactly the same."


Try switching out relay between 302 and 304... First. Make sure they are clean as above.

I also replaced the safety brake start relay behind the brake peddle, and my back still hurts (HAHAHA).

[Jolly Roger]

Have you tried starting it in Neutral for the heck of it?

Yeah,
first thing was to go to neutral to eliminate the neutral switch as a possible culprit.

[Jolly Roger]

I'd ask dealer for money back since they threw a bunch of parts at it and didn't fix it

Might verify if PCM is getting voltage

Make sure all wires are good inside the fuse box under the hood, then check to see if you have a broken wire from fuse panel up to harness going into car below master cylinder

Common for the harness to break around bumper area

Thanks,
I'll bring that to there attention.

[Jolly Roger]

Check all the cables from the battery for clean, tight connections. Have you had the battery and starter tested? Most FLAPS will do it for you for free.

Remove all the relays, circuit breakers and fuses from the battery junction box (under the hood and behind the battery). Clean the contacts of the relays and make sure your getting good contact in the junction box.

I'm supposed to take it back to the stealership Monday.
I'll make sure to check those things over the weekend and test drive and see if it cures the problem.
Thanks FBM.

[justbob]

If you have a tune, have your tuner disable PATS. Yes, it's that easy.


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[Jolly Roger]

Do all above...

Do you have headlights? Brake lights?? Just no start?


Turn key and listen for a soft muffled "click." Have to listen hard.

Had your issues, and it ended up being an $18.00 relay/fuse in same box mentioned above.

I was "HOT" for three weeks about it until I calmed down and read and reread, and then did all of the suggestions in the response threads from guys above. When I get home I will look up the fuse/plug/switch for you.

On plane now--searching is slow--but you can search my threads--I think FastBlackMerc above helped save me last time.

I gonna tackle that fuse box.
Thanks 1M.:)

[Jolly Roger]

# 302 Starter relay - swap it with #304.

I replaced ALL the relays in the junction box. There is a finite amount of times that they will work (cycle on & off). With the amount of miles on these cars I bet most of them are reaching the end of their life.

If any one needs relays I can get them them for you for much less than $18.00 each.

Car has 31,000 mi. on the but your fuse box theory fascinates me. and sounds simply enough to check.
Gonna get right on it.
Thanks again FBM.;)

[Jolly Roger]

Found it...

From FastBlackMerc--who was my hero.... Here was my solution:

First off, thank you all of you for assistance. I did do everything I could get to, and almost everything you suggested first thing this AM. I was on the road all week and flew home last night, so this was as fast as I could get to it.

Great team giving great advice. Following-up, or as the great Paul Harvey used to say, "The RRRRest of the story!"

I must be honest--this morning with sleep in my eyes and only on my second cup of coffee -- I cussed the car out, and told it (truthfully) that if it didnt want to start--it didn't really want me as its owner.

I then switched out/exchanged the starter relay from 302 to 304 (thank you FastBleckMerc), and Bam(!) it started with ease on the first turn!

I backed it out, let it warm up for 10 minutes, put Stabil in tank, drove and filled it with gas (never turned it off), drove it like a wildman for an hour, stopped at local Ford Dealer and bought a new relay (letting it idle the whole time), made an appointment to have the starter checked, and drove it back to storage driveway (again, letting it idle). I then tapped (maybe a little more forceful than a tap) on the Starter six or seven times, and pulled it back into the tight fit storage.

Turned it off. Replaced /switched out relays again, pulled 304, put 302 back into 304, and the new relay in 302... And it started right up. The sound and tone of starter engaging was much "higher toned" and "lighter sounding" and "easier" than I ever recalled it being, so I started the cold dormant Silver sitting right next to it to compare--and they sounded the exactly the same."


Try switching out relay between 302 and 304... First. Make sure they are clean as above.

I also replaced the safety brake start relay behind the brake peddle, and my back still hurts (HAHAHA).

I'm on it.
Thanks again 1M.

[Jolly Roger]

I think I forgot to mention that it will start after sitting for anywhere from 10 to 45 mins.
In the mean time gonna tackle the fuse box and circuit breaker then wiring check.
Thanks to all.:)
I'll be sure to post the results.

[Turbov6Bryan]

I totally read into it as the car never started after 14 miles

Did not realize it was healing itself!

My sisters Honda did the same thing if the windows were rolled up and it was summer,.. Relay on steering column was bad

Sounds like a heat issue from usage , relay somewhere

Go back to dealer for refund

[1Marauder]

I'm on it.
Thanks again 1M.

Just fyi... My car was showroom new w 17000 miles when it happened to.me.

[Jolly Roger]

Just fyi... My car was showroom new w 17000 miles when it happened to.me.
Ok,
Swaped the relays and the problem is still there.
Going for the wiring next.

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[justbob]

For the record, the only thing I did to mine was go return style. Same pump, same relay, same FRPS. Once the FPDM was deleted from the equation, it never shut down again in the last year and a half.

Mine would take about 45 minutes to cool down for a re start as well.

It wouldn't hurt to see if someone local to you has one for testing.


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[Jolly Roger]

If you have a tune, have your tuner disable PATS. Yes, it's that easy.


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Thanks JB,
I'll have a look at my excal 2 to see what it'll take to disable the PATS.

[justbob]

Thanks JB,
I'll have a look at my excal 2 to see what it'll take to disable the PATS.


It has to be done thru your tuner.


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[cvsport2003]

i remember when i had my marauder last years and i miss it everyday really really do

i was having this no spart issue and tryed many few thing like swapped the started and alt and battery since has my buddy have a mm and helped me swap jusst to see the issue

it was a tune up time anyways i been has plug a set of all new motorscraft plugs and changed the fuel filter with the 3' filter and even swapped... we pulled the fuel pump to check chaffed wire and replaced the fuel pump that my buddy had

so did alot of swapping parts but there were all at no cost since had a mm to swap em all out and 2 freinds helping

i also swapped the cam and crack shaft sensor

after all that part swapped took the day of doing so but we all didnt have nothing to do and of course had many many beer

after all of that my buddy had 3 extra full iso relays and of course swapped the 301 and 303 i think it was and what do you know it was a bad realy smh but ws a day of good fun and didnt cost me a penny

of yea we even swapped out the neautral safety dwitch and check all fuses except the full iso ones and of course one relay that my buddy have fror free fixted the problem

luckely i had 3 freinds helping and all has shop car exspeicne who after working 5 hours narrowingit down and finally could have all been avoided and took 1 in to swap the relays ...:argue: but acually was a good time hanging out with freind a family, had a biggg cookout for my boys for the lending the helping hand