View Full Version : power tap inside car to gas pedal
darebren
05-21-2004, 05:06 PM
it looks like there is a heavy guage red wire going to a connector on a cylinder that looks to be connected to the gas pedal.
anyone know if this would support a 15 amp tap in?
or am i better off running right from the battery for a 15 amper?
jspradii
05-21-2004, 05:44 PM
it looks like there is a heavy guage red wire going to a connector on a cylinder that looks to be connected to the gas pedal.
anyone know if this would support a 15 amp tap in?
or am i better off running right from the battery for a 15 amper?David,
My suggestion for a 15 amp tap is to run a separate line and fuse in the block. To me, anything 15 amp or over should be direct wired. Any electricians out there? By the way, have you tried the shot? Details, my man!~:banana2:
darebren
05-21-2004, 06:34 PM
this is my last connection... see my gallery, just need a power source for bottle warmer and control unit, have in line fuses in each, and will run to the battery directly now. this will be the weekend...!
jspradii
05-21-2004, 06:54 PM
this is my last connection... see my gallery, just need a power source for bottle warmer and control unit, have in line fuses in each, and will run to the battery directly now. this will be the weekend...!
Let us know how it goes. Good luck and HAVE FUN!
drgnrdr33
06-03-2004, 12:14 AM
this is my last connection... see my gallery, just need a power source for bottle warmer and control unit, have in line fuses in each, and will run to the battery directly now. this will be the weekend...!
This may be too late for you, but run a separate wire, with in line fuse, if you need 15 amps. Car companies save $$ by using as little copper as possible = wire gauges large enough for the designed current + a bit more in case of a short or other problem. 15 extra amps is certainly more than whatever the original load was expected to be on a particular wire.
How big of a wire? I just took a look at some of the charts I have. Mil-Spec, National Electric Code, insurance agencies, etc. Mil-Spec says you could get away with 14 gauge. More conservative code (500 cmils/amp) says 10 gauge (the smaller the gauge the bigger the wire). For the amount of wire you likely need, you probably will not spend more than a few extra $ to go from 14 to 10 gauge. I'd go with 10. Also, be sure the wire insulation has a high temperature rating. You would not want it melting off if you have to run it through a hot engine compartment. Also, make sure you use the same size wire to provide the ground to the heater and control unit.
Note that automotive stereo install shops have lots of thick stranded wire they use to power amplifiers. 8 gauge is very popular for this. You could pick some up at a stereo install shop or even at Radio Shack if needed.
rookie1
06-03-2004, 05:16 AM
David,
My suggestion for a 15 amp tap is to run a separate line and fuse in the block. To me, anything 15 amp or over should be direct wired. Any electricians out there? :
Running a line directly from the battery with an inline fuse holder is the best way. 10 guage wirw would be more than sufficient. We use alot of 4 and 8 guage in amplifier installs due to a constant draw and heavy marketing by by the cable companies.
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