Check your belt tensioner!

[alec2538]

I know I've seen it reported a bunch before, but it bears repeating: if you have belt noise of ANY KIND, inspect your tensioner immediately.

Mine started with an innocent enough squeak, only on humid/rainy days. Then within the last week I've noticed a clatter/rattle only at idle, in gear, with the A/C on. I assumed it was the tensioner, but it was very inconsistent so I neglected to look at it right away.

Yesterday at work I finally popped the hood to verify it was the tensioner (it was) and ordered a replacement that came in today. Last night, pulling away from a stop sign, I heard a faint but noticable screech once I got past 2.5k RPM or so. I turned off the A/C right away as I had a sneaking suspicion that the extra load was causing the tensioner to fail sooner.

Long story short, with almost no notice, my tensioner had failed and started grinding into the timing cover. Luckily, it's nothing more than a surface scratch, but damage none the less. I replaced the tensioner and the idler directly above it that I discovered was noisy as well, and she's much happier. No clacking at idle, no belt squeak. I can barely hear the old girl idling!

So just another friendly reminder, for $37 it may be worth doing it just for peace of mind. At the very least, carry a spare. 1 bolt and it's out!

[fastblackmerc]

I'd replace the belt, tensioner AND the idler pulley. They all get the same amount of use.

[Catfish]

That's good to know, thanks for the info!

[RF Overlord]

To add to alec's story, a number of years ago The Blackbird was making a noise I attributed to the relocated alternator spinning backwards. Some time later, the 6-rib belt disassembled and while checking things out I discovered the Trilogy-specific alternator idler pulley had also disassembled, in a big way. New belt, new pulley, and all was quiet again.

Moral of the story: check out any new/different sounds sooner rather than later.

[Ken]

My idler pulley started squealing, (didn't know what it was), after a while it stopped. Good! Until We stopped for dinner, got back in car, turned the key, smoke from under hood, opened hood, ground strap turned bright orange, towed to FORD dealer, found idler pulley welded itself upon cooling, engine wouldn't turn over. Happened on a Sunday, had to stay over night in Florence KY

[Davco]

I also had a tensioner pulley begin to run the timing cover. I heard a noise and when I checked it, the damage was already beginning.

[alec2538]

I did forget to mention this, just in case anyone makes this mistake: don't think that just replacing the pulley on the tensioner will fix the problem. It IS replacable, but the issue lies within the tensioner body itself. My tensioner had plenty of spring tension and with the engine off, looked 100% fine. Even when I removed it, I couldn't see anything wrong with it.

$15 for the pulley, $35 for the tensioner. Don't be cheap :banana:

[justbob]

Manual tensioner FTW. [emoji4]


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[JimP]

Manual tensioner FTW. [emoji4]


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Do you know the part number or where one can be had, I'd rather a manual over the spring loaded one using a procharger.

[justbob]

Do you know the part number or where one can be had, I'd rather a manual over the spring loaded one using a procharger.


The only one I know of is included in the bracket I have.

http://www.houseofboost.com/store/4v-ford-mustang-dedicated-bracket-system.html

Then add a new ATI balancer, two cog pullies, and a belt. Oh and polished. [emoji1303]



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[myrodr]

Well thank you very much!!! I had sound in the front thought it was power steering pump. Did not want to get into that project, but thought belt tensioner could be in need of an update. You saved me from an even bigger project! True story, any noise start here. THANKS AGAIN!!!