Ins Co Playing GAMES INFURIATING!!!!!!!!!

[prg333]

Thank you for the info advise on my post yesterday (Accident Ins Co Need Help pls)

I did find out a few things from the car repair shop.. Mostly BAD!

The ins co has raised up the price on several parts by a OUTRAGEOUS amount.

Saying No certified parts available. Meaning NO After Market parts.

Total parts 2nd EST
Total parts $2090 (the rest labor cost) I pay $400.00 deductible
Ins pay $5337.17

To parts cost 3RD EST$3293.47 (1203.47 MORE) total $7007.60 u ($400.00 ded I pay)

Ins pay $6607.60 VS Ins pay $5337.17 INS pays more but they raised
price on several parts.

Bumper cover A/M $845.00 NOW $1523.43 reason NO CERTIFIED BUMPERS AVA

Impact bar A/M $60.00 Now $188.68 NO Cert Impact Bar available

Grille A/M $141.11 NOW $295.33 NO cert grille available

Lt Siginal Lamp assy $52.00 NOW $240.67 (5X MORE)

So the insurance co appears to have raised the price, on parts so they can total out the car!!!!!!!!

They will only according to the shop give me 75% of what the cars value is!!

Shop says IF they total it out(which ins co told me the are leaning to) I can still drive car like before accident with a Reconstructed/Salvage title. Since I WONT sell the car in the future, I do not have to worry that salvage title with drastically lower price of car.



So questions (I NEVER had an accident in 30 years of driving)

1. Should I REFUSE the first offer from Insurance co, to try and get higher amount for car. I was thinking of asking 10 grand, Will they threaten NOT to pay ANY $$ if I turn down their first offer, or ask for MORE $$

2. What does "Buyback" the car mean? EX if ins total out car at $6500.00 I "buy it back" for $1200.00. I do not understand the concept. I think I would get the the car(Which I own and was paid for totally long ago) possible salvage title and $5300.00

3. The insurance company will allegedly cut ME a check for the repair. So couldn't I decide to take the car ANYWHERE I CHOOSE to get it repaired at a lower cost?

4. I can store they car at my parents house, until I can find a good place to fix it for possible MUCH less then the estimate I detailed above.

5. If they "total it out" and I do not get it fixed at the shop it is at now. Would I have to surrender the plates, un-insure the car and de-register it until a repair was done ? Meaning it could Not be driven to my parents house to just be parked, until repair was done, as well as NOT be legally driven to a new repair shop?

6. If I ask them to NOT "total it out" : and give me the best price not totaled,
the advantage would be that I would NOT get a Salvage title/reconstructed title, but a CLEAN title

7. I WILL shop for a better price at a few different shops.

8. Does ANY member of this site DO body work, who are located in the Rockland County NY.Orange County NY, Westchester County area. Or Northern New Jersey. Or know of a good shop, who WOULD do the work for MUCH less with parts that are acceptable and will be good.,

9 If i decided to "sell car wrecked" How much could I get for it? I assume before repairs (maybe to a member of this group) who would be handy to do the work on their own.

Please let me know, I know I was long winded and wrote a lot. But I am going NUTS! As I am not very handy doing body work.
You guys have been extremely helpful over the last 9 years when I have posted a question on a repair needed or problem I was having.

So all that good advise has been and will always be greatly appreciated!!

[RubberCtyRauder]

factory bumper cover, grille,lights are all obsolete. ford/mercury have none. so used and aftermarket are the only choices.

[Ourobos]

2. Insurance settles with you for X amount.. They determine what the totaled car is worth, normally about 10% of X amount.. You take X amount minus the value, and you get the car, the cash, and the rebuilt title.

[prg333]

factory bumper cover, grille,lights are all obsolete. ford/mercury have none. so used and aftermarket are the only choices.

Funny BC Shop said They have to use OEM Ford Mercury parts for the above items bc "NO CERTIFIED GRILLES BUMPERS AVAILABLE"

[justbob]

In my experience on smaller amounts (1,500-2,000), the first offer reflected approximately 33% of what they are actually willing to pay..

Never ever accept the first offer.


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[RubberCtyRauder]

Funny BC Shop said They have to use OEM Ford Mercury parts for the above items bc "NO CERTIFIED GRILLES BUMPERS AVAILABLE"

ask them how they are going to use oem when oem is obsolete,

[Turbov6Bryan]

Can you post pics of your car?

Just remember you can put OEM used parts that fit better than most aftercrap from China

I spent July finding OEM MARAUDER parts for my DTR

NOSE 140.00
Lights 110.00
eBay grille 82.00
Corner lamp 58.00
Paint 200.00

Parts are expensive for these cars, not too bad on this board if your here a bunch and have a list of needed parts
Lots of us have extra parts

[sailsmen]

What you are saying about changes in parts price does not make sense. Something is amiss.

You need an actual estimate from someone that is not using an obsolete computer program and who, actually gets real time price on parts due to many not being available from Ford.

ps I was once told by an insurance company we will come pick it up and you don't even need to be there. I said how? They said the wrecker will hook up to it and bring it to our salvage yard. How did you determine that? Any car with over 100k miles, over 7 yrs old and front end damage is a total loss.

I said NO! I will have it towed to my shop by my wrecker because it is my car and you will have 3 days to have your adjuster reach an agreement with the body shop.

The car was no where near a total. The wrecker driver told me they drag it up with a winch and then a fork lift picks it off, usually dropping it on the ground. Then it will be a total loss!

[Henry]

1. You don't have to accept their offer until you are happy. A friend kept a claim open for a totaled truck for 7 months over a $70 billet grille the insurance company didn't want to pay for. It costs them money to leave a claim open and pay somebody to work it. They aren't there to help you. They are there to make money.

2. The buy back is the cost for you to keep the car. If the car is valued at $6500 and the buy back is $1000, they cut you a check for $5500 after you have proof of sending the title to the state and getting made into a salvage cerificate.

3. By law the insurance company cannot make you get the car fixed anywhere. It is of your choice and you can do it whenever you want. They can give you a check and you could never fix it if you choose.

5. If the car is totaled/salvaged titled it becomes unregisterable/insurable until the repairs are completed and the reconstructed title paperwork is filed. It would not be legal to drive the car by a private individual on a public roadway.

9. The car as is with a salvage title is probably worth $2500-3500 depending on condition.


After looking at marauders that were totaled and the insurance payout the standard number seems to be $10k. Color/mileage doesn't really seem to matter. I just saw a blue 64k mile car valued at $10k. And a 92k mile 300a valued at $10k. Based on the market that's probably the number you can get them to for value.

[justbob]

1,2,3,5,9? Lol


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[Henry]

1,2,3,5,9? Lol


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His list of questions/statements that I had answers to.

[prg333]

I have pics I can post. Will do so asap. I should post what parts I need
OEM parts no longer available. Funny repair show says can ONLY get OEM parts for bumper cover Impact bar. Grille

[prg333]

I will not accept the First offer.

5. If the car is totaled/salvaged titled it becomes unregisterable/insurable until the repairs are completed and the reconstructed title paperwork is filed. It would not be legal to drive the car by a private individual on a public roadway.

Ouch that is WHY I do NOT want them to "total" the car or get a salvage title. I would have to rush to do the repairs at a higher cost possibly. The reconstructed paperwork could take a while to go through. The repair shop where I went said "I would NOT have a choice to NOT have it "totaled" I think that is fishy.

[prg333]

ask them how they are going to use oem when oem is obsolete,

Yes that would be a good question. I wonder what kind of answer they would give

[prg333]

After looking at marauders that were totaled and the insurance payout the standard number seems to be $10k. Color/mileage doesn't really seem to matter. I just saw a blue 64k mile car valued at $10k. And a 92k mile 300a valued at $10k. Based on the market that's probably the number you can get them to for value.

I found about $13,000 average price thru Cars For Sale site. so 10 grand seems just right

[bugsyc]

I bought a 85 El Camino a couple of years ago from a lot that sells mostly salvage titled cars.I was able to register it here in South Carolina.New title in my name marked as a salvage vehicle.No problems.Of course down here they don't even have inspections,emmisions or anything else...I sold the car to a couple who drove the car back to Virginia.He had a little trouble registering it there but,after getting signed statement from me that the car was repaired,he was able to get a rebuilt title. I drove the car legally with a salvage title for over a year with no problems.DMV issued me regular,ordinary plates.

[F1erceK]

If the other driver was speeding, you can counter sue the other driver. It will default to his insurance and they will have to show up in court where you share details. IMHO this may not have even happened if the other driver wasn't speeding, as you would have seen him and not made the move.

Done this before, worked in my favor - was a LONG process (3-4 months) but was worth it.

[sailsmen]

After looking at marauders that were totaled and the insurance payout the standard number seems to be $10k. Color/mileage doesn't really seem to matter. I just saw a blue 64k mile car valued at $10k. And a 92k mile 300a valued at $10k. Based on the market that's probably the number you can get them to for value.

I found about $13,000 average price thru Cars For Sale site. so 10 grand seems just right

There is no "standard number".

Assuming you are collecting against your insurance company under ACV the value is legally defined, absent any State specific Law, to include all factors in determining the ACV. Generally what you could buy a similar car for in similar condition including the sales tax.

[1 Bad Merc]

You are better off taking a lower amount and not getting a salvage title. Then find a shop to fix it with the parts you collected.

If you dont drive your car everyday I would urge you to look into classic car insurance like Hagerty. There you do an agreed upon value policy and that is the price they pay if your car is totaled. The catch is the car cannot be your everyday driver. Just my .02 -good luck on the repairs.

[justbob]

ask them how they are going to use oem when oem is obsolete,

Yes that would be a good question. I wonder what kind of answer they would give



Is used OEM parts not allowed?


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[prg333]

You are better off taking a lower amount and not getting a salvage title. Then find a shop to fix it with the parts you collected.

If you dont drive your car everyday I would urge you to look into classic car insurance like Hagerty. There you do an agreed upon value policy and that is the price they pay if your car is totaled. The catch is the car cannot be your everyday driver. Just my .02 -good luck on the repairs.

The car WAS declared a "TOTAL LOSS" The offered $7500.00 then take away $400.00 deductible PLUS %1516 salvage value for final amour $5575.00

I DID get $1700.00 of work done in 2015. $550.00 2016. They say that may raise the $5575.00 offer a bit but NOT dollar for Dollar.

I COULD just take the $7500.00 and NOT take the car back. Maybe find another Marauder for close to that with less miles. Risky as any other Marauder is 12+ yrs old 2004. Do not know its history. Or keep $$ towards New Challenger 5.7 V8 or used one

[Turbov6Bryan]

When are you going to post pictures?

[sailsmen]

"They will only according to the shop give me 75% of what the cars value is!!''

Is the $7,500 based on 75% of the "standard number" of $10,000?

This 75% does not make any sense. I have never heard of an auto insurance policy that only pays 75%.

[Ourobos]

Yeah I wouldn't go for that.. I had a similar situation when someone totaled one of my foxbodies.. It was completely restored 88 t-top. I had just paid taxes on $9500, per my registration slip.. I had over $6000 in parts in it.. They offered me $3500.. I literally laughed at them over the phone and said "I'll just have my attorney contact you"... WAIT WAIT they said.. And I told them I just paid taxes on $9500 and wouldn't take a dime less.. Lo and behold they put me on hold, and 5 minutes later offered me $9500 with a buy back of $600.. Don't let them push you around. If it is more valuable than 7500 (I value my Marauder at 16k), push the issue.. Otherwise.. I'd let it ride..

[prg333]

"They will only according to the shop give me 75% of what the cars value is!!''

Is the $7,500 based on 75% of the "standard number" of $10,000?

This 75% does not make any sense. I have never heard of an auto insurance policy that only pays 75%.

In NYS there is a 75% rule or policy. Looks like it is based on 10 grand value. offered me $7500.00 if I want to take the $$ and run Not take car. $5575.00 to keep car and the $5575.00

[prg333]

Yeah I wouldn't go for that.. I had a similar situation when someone totaled one of my foxbodies.. It was completely restored 88 t-top. I had just paid taxes on $9500, per my registration slip.. I had over $6000 in parts in it.. They offered me $3500.. I literally laughed at them over the phone and said "I'll just have my attorney contact you"... WAIT WAIT they said.. And I told them I just paid taxes on $9500 and wouldn't take a dime less.. Lo and behold they put me on hold, and 5 minutes later offered me $9500 with a buy back of $600.. Don't let them push you around. If it is more valuable than 7500 (I value my Marauder at 16k), push the issue.. Otherwise.. I'd let it ride..

Looks like $7500.00 best I can do, based on the 10 G -25% for 75% rule in NYS.

I WILL send over my repairs on car. 2015 $1700.00 2016 $535.00 May factor not dollar for dollar. But may raise amount $400.00 or so.

I would like to keep my Marauder. Hard to find a nice one now for about the $7500.00 they are offering. With less then the 176,200 miles I have on mine

[prg333]

When are you going to post pictures?

when I figure out how to get pic from my I phone to site. Been busy working reg job. working about car what they would give

[RubberCtyRauder]

75% is the threshold that NY calls the limit to total a car. If the cost to repair is more than 75% of the value of car, then they consider it a total loss. It has nothing to do with payout. It is not 75% of $10k mentioned. I would not accept 7500

[RubberCtyRauder]

You have it wrong..75% is nothe the percentage of value they pay..if that is the case then why have you paid insurance based on 100% of the value..You don't pay insurance at 75%

You better re-read the 75% deal..if the car is worth $10k then the insurance co, will total it if repairs exceed $7500, if the car is worth $7500, then repairs can not exceed $5625

[RubberCtyRauder]

In states without a specific threshold percentage, TLF refers to the "total loss formula": cost of repairs plus scrap value must equal the pre-accident value of the car.

StateThreshold

Alabama (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Alabama-car-insurance.aspx)75%Louisiana (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Louisiana-car-insurance.aspx)75%Ohio (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Ohio-car-insurance.aspx)TLFAlaska (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Alaska-car-insurance.aspx)TLFMaine (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Maine-car-insurance.aspx)TLFOklahoma (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Oklahoma-car-insurance.aspx)60%Arizona (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Arizona-car-insurance.aspx)TLFMaryland (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Maryland-car-insurance.aspx)75%Oregon (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Oregon-car-insurance.aspx)80%Arkansas (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Arkansas-car-insurance.aspx)70%Massachusett s (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Massachusetts-car-insurance.aspx)TLFPennsylvania (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Pennsylvania-car-insurance.aspx)TLFCalifornia (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/California-car-insurance.aspx)TLFMichigan (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Michigan-car-insurance.aspx)75%Rhode Island (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Rhode-Island-car-insurance.aspx)TLFColorado (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Colorado-car-insurance.aspx)100%Minnesota (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Minnesota-car-insurance.aspx)70%South Carolina (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/South-Carolina-car-insurance.aspx)75%Connecticut (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Connecticut-car-insurance.aspx)TLFMississippi (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Mississippi-car-insurance.aspx)70%South Dakota (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/South-Dakota-car-insurance.aspx)TLFDelaware (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Delaware-car-insurance.aspx)TLFMissouri (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Missouri-car-insurance.aspx)80%Tennessee (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Tennessee-car-insurance.aspx)75%Florida (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Florida-car-insurance.aspx)80%Montana (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Montana-car-insurance.aspx)TLFTexas (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Texas-car-insurance.aspx)100%Georgia (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Georgia-car-insurance.aspx)TLFNebraska (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Nebraska-car-insurance.aspx)75%Utah (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Utah-car-insurance.aspx)TLFHawaii (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Hawaii-car-insurance.aspx)TLFNevada (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Nevada-car-insurance.aspx)65%Vermont (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Vermont-car-insurance.aspx)TLFIdaho (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Idaho-car-insurance.aspx)TLFNew Hampshire (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/New-Hampshire-car-insurance.aspx)75%Virginia (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Virginia-car-insurance.aspx)75%Illinois (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Illinois-car-insurance.aspx)TLFNew Jersey (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/New-Jersey-car-insurance.aspx)TLFWashington (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Washington-car-insurance.aspx)TLFIndiana (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Indiana-car-insurance.aspx)70%New Mexico (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/New-Mexico-car-insurance.aspx)TLFWest Virginia (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/West-Virginia-car-insurance.aspx)75%Iowa (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Iowa-car-insurance.aspx)50%New York (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/New-York-car-insurance.aspx)75%Wisconsin (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Wisconsin-car-insurance.aspx)70%Kansas (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Kansas-car-insurance.aspx)75%North Carolina (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/North-Carolina-car-insurance.aspx)75%Wyoming (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Wyoming-car-insurance.aspx)75%Kentucky (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/Kentucky-car-insurance.aspx)75%North Dakota (http://www.carinsurance.com/state/North-Dakota-car-insurance.aspx)75%



These are the thresholds that states use to determine a "total", NOT anything related to payout

[sailsmen]

What Rubber is saying is accurate.

You do not have a 75% clause in your policy.

They must pay you the ACV, which means any and all factors relating to the value must be taken into account. Generally what it would cost to by another car in similar condition, which includes the sales tax and registration fees.

There is a lot of confusing information in your posts.

I suggest you sit down with your insurance agent or a friend who works in insurance with all your documentation to explain it all to you.

You have a contract with the insurance company. There are industry norms and practices on how the obligations of the contract are met, but they are not necessarily binding.

For instance it maybe customary to say thank you to a server, but you are not bound to do so.

Good Luck.

[prg333]

What Rubber is saying is accurate.

You do not have a 75% clause in your policy.

They must pay you the ACV, which means any and all factors relating to the value must be taken into account. Generally what it would cost to by another car in similar condition, which includes the sales tax and registration fees.

There is a lot of confusing information in your posts.

I suggest you sit down with your insurance agent or a friend who works in insurance with all your documentation to explain it all to you.

You have a contract with the insurance company. There are industry norms and practices on how the obligations of the contract are met, but they are not necessarily binding.

For instance it maybe customary to say thank you to a server, but you are not bound to do so.

Good Luck.

Thank you guys for all the help. Ins says they "totaled out the car" as I understand it based on the fact it costs more to fix the car, using certified parts, then what it is worth. Repair with certified parts $7500.00 So they are offering 7491.00 minus $400.00 decductible for $7041.00 MINUS $1500.00 buyback. $5591.00 money and keep car. Sending repairs I got done may up the final price somewhat I had 1700.00 of work done 2015. $550.00 this year.

I may push for high amount Did not officially accept offer yet

[prg333]

What Rubber is saying is accurate.

You do not have a 75% clause in your policy.

They must pay you the ACV, which means any and all factors relating to the value must be taken into account. Generally what it would cost to by another car in similar condition, which includes the sales tax and registration fees.

There is a lot of confusing information in your posts.

I suggest you sit down with your insurance agent or a friend who works in insurance with all your documentation to explain it all to you.

You have a contract with the insurance company. There are industry norms and practices on how the obligations of the contract are met, but they are not necessarily binding.

For instance it maybe customary to say thank you to a server, but you are not bound to do so.

Good Luck.
Yes they came to the value of MY car based on a car they saw nearby for $7500.00 offering me $7491.00 minus $400.00 dec and 1500.00 buyback salavge for $5541.00 not including $$ for repairs done(2015/2016). Maybe an extra few hundred

[sailsmen]

Good, the most important thing is the "value", i.e. the top line figure.

If you think the pre-accident value of your MM of $7,500 is fair, which generally is what you could buy a similar one including sales tax and registration, then the rest goes from there.

[prg333]

Good, the most important thing is the "value", i.e. the top line figure.

If you think the pre-accident value of your MM of $7,500 is fair, which generally is what you could buy a similar one including sales tax and registration, then the rest goes from there.

I think it is a pretty fair amount. If they bump up the offer $500.00 to a price of $6000.00 for me to Keep my car and the 6 grand I think I will for for it.

[a_d_a_m]

I experienced a total loss on my 2004 Grand Marquis back in July of 2012, and went back and forth with the insurance company on the payout. Having been there, I will advise you that you'll be best served to be persistent and informed.

If you haven't done so, do a very thorough inspection of the total loss report. I found the following issues on mine along with the deduction from the car's value:
1. -$251 for "evidence of poor repainting"...when I questioned this, I was told it was due to minor touch up of chipped paint on the header panel and two small chips on the side.
2. -$305 for "1 large dent on left quarter"...this was a result of the collision, as the whole ass end of the car buckled. Any damage that occurred due to the collision may not be factored in. They were not receptive to this, and required me actually raising my voice to the adjuster, but they ultimately relented.
^^^^On these two issues alone, I was able to get $556 back into my pocket.

The report also omitted the following standard or optional equipment on my car: floor mats, keyless entry, interior trunk release, alloy wheels, AM/FM/CD/cassette. I can't find the figures or e-mail that indicate how that affected my claim, but I know it pushed the car's value up slightly.

The single biggest boost in the car's value came after I started sending the insurance company links to comparable vehicles. Although my insurance company provided three examples on their report, I understood that these examples were designed to demonstrate a low value for my car and save the insurance company money. So look online frequently for new listings, and send them vehicles with similar condition and mileage if it is financially to your advantage.

I'm not sure what the law is where you live, but I was also able to get a sales tax reimbursement when I purchased a replacement vehicle. That was another $486 I wasn't expecting on top of the claim itself.

[RubberCtyRauder]

What Adam says ^^^^ Sales tax and registration of another vehiclhe comparable added in as well.

Plus they "saw" one nearby? so they assumed all are priced the same? WTF.. I would not settle based on their one view..they are trying toi quickly close the case..they are not looking out for your best interest..they want you to settle and they keep the car and sell it for wholesale to yard who will sell parts off it. The insurance company gets another $1500 out of it.

[1 Bad Merc]

The first thing you have to know is the insurance company is trying to get out of this as cheap as they can. If they can offer you something reasonable they are hoping you jump on it. I would go online and search comparable cars with the same or less mileage and show them the prices -hopefully they are more. Then I would ask for more money and see what happens. Good Luck and hang in there.

[justbob]

Don't forget rental car reimbursement!


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[prg333]

The first thing you have to know is the insurance company is trying to get out of this as cheap as they can. If they can offer you something reasonable they are hoping you jump on it. I would go online and search comparable cars with the same or less mileage and show them the prices -hopefully they are more. Then I would ask for more money and see what happens. Good Luck and hang in there.

I did do a search. But only came up with a few cars. Both with about the same miles 176,222 to 188.232. Both $7500 and $7900.00. Others had lower mileage.. 95,000 or 102,000 @ 10 grand $11,250

[prg333]

I experienced a total loss on my 2004 Grand Marquis back in July of 2012, and went back and forth with the insurance company on the payout. Having been there, I will advise you that you'll be best served to be persistent and informed.

If you haven't done so, do a very thorough inspection of the total loss report. I found the following issues on mine along with the deduction from the car's value:
1. -$251 for "evidence of poor repainting"...when I questioned this, I was told it was due to minor touch up of chipped paint on the header panel and two small chips on the side.
2. -$305 for "1 large dent on left quarter"...this was a result of the collision, as the whole ass end of the car buckled. Any damage that occurred due to the collision may not be factored in. They were not receptive to this, and required me actually raising my voice to the adjuster, but they ultimately relented.
^^^^On these two issues alone, I was able to get $556 back into my pocket.

The report also omitted the following standard or optional equipment on my car: floor mats, keyless entry, interior trunk release, alloy wheels, AM/FM/CD/cassette. I can't find the figures or e-mail that indicate how that affected my claim, but I know it pushed the car's value up slightly.

The single biggest boost in the car's value came after I started sending the insurance company links to comparable vehicles. Although my insurance company provided three examples on their report, I understood that these examples were designed to demonstrate a low value for my car and save the insurance company money. So look online frequently for new listings, and send them vehicles with similar condition and mileage if it is financially to your advantage.

I'm not sure what the law is where you live, but I was also able to get a sales tax reimbursement when I purchased a replacement vehicle. That was another $486 I wasn't expecting on top of the claim itself.


I DID ask them on your advise for the report to be e-mailed to me. Hope to get it soon.

[a_d_a_m]

Good. Go over that with a fine toothed comb.

[prg333]

Don't forget rental car reimbursement!


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I have a rental car covered under my Insurance until the 23rd of this month. I can push for more time as I have up to a month under my policy

[Crazieboutamerc]

When my wife was hit in her 89 Town car. Their insurance payed about $2600. - 300 value. we kept the car. The insurance co told us to go get the title changed to a rebuilder title. We never did. I fixed the car with $60 in parts. ( rear bumper shocks) She drove it until another accident pushed the pass quarter into the tire. Wound up selling it for 300+ for scrap.

Tim

[TJCOX]

Is small claims court and option?