Blowing 15A Fuses, Lights Staying On, Etc...

[MarauderMason]

>>>>>PLEASE HELP<<<<<
Ok, been having an electrical issue. A majority of my 15A fuses under the dash keep popping, knocking out my climate control, electronic power steering assist, my dash and interior lights. Also park and reverse lights stay on whether the car is on or off, but they eventually cut off as a result of another 15A fuse popping if I'm driving for a long period of time, otherwise, I have to disconnect the battery. I'm thinking there's a short to ground, so I'm going to try to locate it, but I wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue before, and if so... What caused your issue??

[RubberCtyRauder]

check the wiring harness that rubs up against the rear of the cam cover..been know to chafe there, not all sure what wires are in the bundle.

[MarauderMason]

Ok, I'll give it a lookie. Thanks

[Pat]

Also look at the wire bundles that route around the front and sides of the radiator. Lots to look at so be thorough. Fender wells too.

Also what was happening before this started? What was being worked on? Any drilling, new accessories being mounted, maintenace work, driving through flooded roads?

It's been our experience that things like this are a result of an previous action.

[fastblackmerc]

Has the car ever been in an accident?

Any work done recently?

It's very very unusual for multiple fuses to go out one after the other. I've never seen anything like that in the 50+ years of working on vehicles, and I've seen some weird stuff.......................

This is what I'd check, in order of importance:

1 - Check all the grounds in the engine compartment and the interior (both front kick panels). By "check" I mean take them off, clean the connector and reinstall.

2 - Check all the positive connections - battery, alternator, Power Distribution Box (behind the battery). See meaning of "check" above.

3 - Check the harness that is under the left front headlight assembly / ride height compressor.

4 - Check the main connector at the firewall that feeds the interior. Located under the power brake booster.

5 - Check the harness behind the drivers side cam cover. It may be rubbing on the long bolt from the cowl cover.

Wish you were closer.... I'd like to see this happen :D

[MarauderMason]

Also look at the wire bundles that route around the front and sides of the radiator. Lots to look at so be thorough. Fender wells too.

Also what was happening before this started? What was being worked on? Any drilling, new accessories being mounted, maintenace work, driving through flooded roads?

It's been our experience that things like this are a result of an previous action.


Has the car ever been in an accident?

Any work done recently?

It's very very unusual for multiple fuses to go out one after the other. I've never seen anything like that in the 50+ years of working on vehicles, and I've seen some weird stuff.......................

This is what I'd check, in order of importance:

1 - Check all the grounds in the engine compartment and the interior (both front kick panels). By "check" I mean take them off, clean the connector and reinstall.

2 - Check all the positive connections - battery, alternator, Power Distribution Box (behind the battery). See meaning of "check" above.

3 - Check the harness that is under the left front headlight assembly / ride height compressor.

4 - Check the main connector at the firewall that feeds the interior. Located under the power brake booster.

5 - Check the harness behind the drivers side cam cover. It may be rubbing on the long bolt from the cowl cover.

Wish you were closer.... I'd like to see this happen :D
She hasn't been in any collisions, I verified that before I bought her. No work has been done on her, no drilling, no installs of new equipment, nothing. She's completely stock with the exception of the JLT cai. The initial sign of an issue was the climate control stopped working because of the popped fuse, then the lights became an issue, along with the other accesories, and I've been trying to source it ever since. As long as I've been working on vehicles, I've never seen this either, which is why I'm so frustrated, because I'm stumped by something I thought to be so minuscule and should have found by now. I'm going to do a more thorough check. Thank you guys for the advice.

[Chayton]

I had a similar issue. My cluster lights, tail lights, and parking lights would cut out ONLY when I made a left turn. Drove me crazy. my floor ended up being covered in blown fuses LOL. For me it was the wiring harness that runs past the front of the radiator like someone mentioned. Its very tricky to get to but apparently very common. Here is what I suggest, as it worked for me: you need to put the car on jack stands and remove the passenger wheel. the wiring bundle runs against the end of the frame rail and rubs, eventually shorting out. Wiggle it around and see if there are exposed wires, or if you blow fuses while doing so

[Turbov6Bryan]

Dime stuck in cigarette lighter hole in center console?

Check each port where the fuses go, put one lead on ground, one on each section of each fuse. You'll be checking for continuity to ground (your short)

You can do it with the battery unplugged

If you get a portion of the fuse grounding out, start jiggling wires and see if it makes a difference

Tell us the fuse # (location on fuse panel) that you keep popping

What happens if you get violent with the turn signal stalk?

[Pat]

Just a thought, remove the blower fan control module in the engine bay, that is a high power/amp device that has given us problems before. Leave it out, replace all the blown fuses and see what happens.

There is a sticky on this in the DIY forum.

[fastblackmerc]

With fuses blowing one after another you need to look at the "whole" electrical system since the fuses protect an individual circuit. That is why I suggested looking at the + and - circuits first.

Another thought........ Get the alternator checked out. Might be a stuck regulator.

[Pat]

Is it only the 15 amp fuses that are blowing?

There are ten, which ones are blowing 1,6,12,15,16,18,19,21,23,25.

[MarauderMason]

Is it only the 15 amp fuses that are blowing?

There are ten, which ones are blowing 1,6,12,15,16,18,19,21,23,25.
The one that blows consistently is the fuse 16

[Pat]

OK, that supplies voltge to a number of circuits, go to the following site and scroll down to 2003/4 marauder and there you will find the names of the circuits involved.
WWW.crownvic.net/drock96marquis/fuses.htm

You may be able to disconnect power from the individual circuits until you find the one that's shorted.

[fastblackmerc]

The one that blows consistently is the fuse 16

Fuse #16 (15A) controller the following circuits:
Reversing lamps
Shift lock
DRL module
VAP (Variable Assist Power) steering
Electronic Day/Night mirror
Overhead console
Air suspension
Climate control
Heated seat module
Backup lights - probably the same as "Reversing lamps".......
DDM (Drivers Door Module)

To trouble shoot this I'd disconnect all those "systems". Pull the bulbs from the backup lights, disconnect the overhead console, disconnect the rearview mirror, disconnect the air suspension compressor, disconnect the EATC, etc.

I'd bet that either the air suspension compressor, backup light bulbs or the VAP is the culprit.

[Pat]

OK, look in the bucket/tray the air ride compressor sits in and check for water, corrosion and such. This has been reported to cause f-16 problems. Apparently the bucket or tray does not have sufficient drainage.

Did this car come from an area with snow and Ice during winter months?

There's a U-tube video on this.. Type in "2003 Mercury Marauder air ride compressor".
The underside of this compressor is completely encrusted in corrosion about a 1/2 " thick.

[justbob]

I recall someone finding a screw from the drivers side sun visor had shorted the harness to their overhead console a few years back.


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[fastblackmerc]

I recall someone finding a screw from the drivers side sun visor had shorted the harness to their overhead console a few years back.


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I thought that was for the vanity mirror in the sunvisor.

[MarauderMason]

OK, look in the bucket/tray the air ride compressor sits in and check for water, corrosion and such. This has been reported to cause f-16 problems. Apparently the bucket or tray does not have sufficient drainage.

Did this car come from an area with snow and Ice during winter months?

There's a U-tube video on this.. Type in "2003 Mercury Marauder air ride compressor".
The underside of this compressor is completely encrusted in corrosion about a 1/2 " thick.
Wouldn't unpluging the compressor reveal of that was the issue

[justbob]

I thought that was for the vanity mirror in the sunvisor.



I can't remember the actual wire, but I thought it caused gremlins all over the place.


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[MarauderMason]

Has the car ever been in an accident?

Any work done recently?

It's very very unusual for multiple fuses to go out one after the other. I've never seen anything like that in the 50+ years of working on vehicles, and I've seen some weird stuff.......................

This is what I'd check, in order of importance:

1 - Check all the grounds in the engine compartment and the interior (both front kick panels). By "check" I mean take them off, clean the connector and reinstall.

2 - Check all the positive connections - battery, alternator, Power Distribution Box (behind the battery). See meaning of "check" above.

3 - Check the harness that is under the left front headlight assembly / ride height compressor.

4 - Check the main connector at the firewall that feeds the interior. Located under the power brake booster.

5 - Check the harness behind the drivers side cam cover. It may be rubbing on the long bolt from the cowl cover.

Wish you were closer.... I'd like to see this happen :D
Your information has definitely helped me narrow the possibilities, I'm thinking it's a parking lamp ground issue, because now 21 is the only fuse blowing. I ran out of light to check it, as I'm working on it in a hotel parking lot that I'm staying at. I was hoping to get it done today when I got off of work so that I don't have any issues when I head home after my project here is done. Thanks so much.

[Pat]

Wouldn't unpluging the compressor reveal of that was the issue

I would think so.

[Mebot]

I can't remember the actual wire, but I thought it caused gremlins all over the place.


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L Mark had a bunch of wire issues that traced to a crimp in the door jamb.

[1Marauder]

You all ROCK!

[MarauderMason]

Well, I've cleaned my grounds, trying to trace wires, and no luck... Still popping fuses. Now it's gotten to a point where as soon as I turn the headlight switch to the park light position or if it's in auto, the fuse blows. Not only that, my passive alarm honks the horn immediately after I lock the doors, and does so until I turn the car on, and it also intermittently does a quick honk when I put it in gear or park. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the switch that activates the reverse lights. This is driving me crazy. I've always hated electrical troubleshooting.

[justbob]

Maybe try it again with the clock Spring un plugged. It's known for failures and has a lighting wire, HVAC, radio, cruise, and horn. The harness is right at the bottom of the column. Easy test to rule out.


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[MarauderMason]

Maybe try it again with the clock Spring un plugged. It's known for failures and has a lighting wire, HVAC, radio, cruise, and horn. The harness is right at the bottom of the column. Easy test to rule out.


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Didn't have any luck with that.

[MarauderMason]

I just don't get it. It should not be this damn difficult.

[fastblackmerc]

Did you remove both reverse light bulbs?

[MarauderMason]

I didn't remove both, I did one at a time. Smh... Such a rookie mistake. Let me try that. Lol

[MarauderMason]

Wait, I did unplug the reverse lights at their main connector on the decklid.

[EMAS]

If it blows the fuse when you turn on the parking lights that narrows it down considerably. Pull out the taillights the way they are set up there is a length of harness going from the body to the actual light assembly it can get pinched between the mounting stud and the body. Then after several years it will finally wear through the insulation and create the short. I had that happen to the wire to the brake light causing that its fuse to blow.

[MarauderMason]

Latest update... It's not blowing the fuse immediately after I turn the switch to the parking lamp position anymore, but the park lamps still stay on no if the battery is connected.