Parts List to do your Timing Chain Guides/Tensioners

[Zack]

So many people order the wrong or low quality stuff, so here is the best of the best to get the job done:

Ford Parts:
1R3Z-6L253-BA Right Arm
1R3Z-6L253-AA Left Arm
1R3Z-6M256-AA Left Guide
2C5Z-6K297-AA Right Guide

Remaining parts you can get from Rock Auto in one purchase:
Cloyes 95338 Left Steel Tensioner
Cloyes 95339 Right Steel Tensioner
FelPro VS50477R Cam Cover gasket set
FelPro TCS45980 Timing cover Gasket set w/crank seal

If your car has high mileage, you should inspect the upper manifold gasket before re-installing.

[RF Overlord]

Excellent info! Making this a sticky...

[fastblackmerc]

So many people order the wrong or low quality stuff, so here is the best of the best to get the job done:

Ford Parts:
1R3Z-6L253-BA Right Arm
1R3Z-6L253-AA Left Arm
1R3Z-6M256-AA Left Guide
2C5Z-6K297-AA Right Guide

Remaining parts you can get from Rock Auto in one purchase:
Cloyes 95338 Left Steel Tensioner
Cloyes 95339 Right Steel Tensioner
FelPro VS50477R Cam Cover gasket set
FelPro TCS45980 Timing cover Gasket set w/crank seal

If your car has high mileage, you should inspect the upper manifold gasket before re-installing.

Zack, are the tensioners the "better" ones?

[blkZooM]

Zack, are the tensioners the "better" ones?
Its the steel one so yes, though it is what are cars come with. So i guess its really just not down grading

[Zack]

Many Marauders came with plastic tensioners, mainly in 04

[Mr. Man]

What about the Ford racing kit I see? Part #M-6004-A464. It has what you posted plus pretty much everything else.

[GetMeMyStogie]

Misplaced reply

[GetMeMyStogie]

Is there a reason this list excludes the chains and gears (but includes the necessary gaskets)?

I mean, is it because you simply get them from Ford, or is it because they don't actually need replacing if you change the guides and tensioners?

[Zack]

Is there a reason this list excludes the chains and gears (but includes the necessary gaskets)?

I mean, is it because you simply get them from Ford, or is it because they don't actually need replacing if you change the guides and tensioners?

Unless your engine has been neglected, those items don't wear out.
Not any of the ones I've seen at least

[ledzilla]

I might be pulling the timing cover to repair an oil leak onto the belt (verifying leak location first). Sounds like while I have it apart it wouldn't hurt to grab these parts and swap them out.

[a_d_a_m]

I might be pulling the timing cover to repair an oil leak onto the belt (verifying leak location first). Did you check your oil filter adaptor? The gasket is a known failure item.

[71cyclone]

Many Marauders came with plastic tensioners, mainly in 04
Yes they did ,and that what was broke on mine. Rock auto dropped the ball on the driver side guide ,it was for a 2 valve motor.:violin:

[ledzilla]

Did you check your oil filter adaptor? The gasket is a known failure item.
Oil filter adapter? Don't have one installed. Oil filter port is still stock, no adapters or anything for oil cooling. Plus, the leak looks to be coming from the other side of the motor, anyway. But like I said, going to have it inspected. I've been too busy working on my other cars to have time to properly check it myself.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Oil filter adapter? Don't have one installed. Oil filter port is still stock, no adapters or anything for oil cooling. Plus, the leak looks to be coming from the other side of the motor, anyway. But like I said, going to have it inspected. I've been too busy working on my other cars to have time to properly check it myself.

He meant the factory oil filter housing gasket. Makes for a nice leak on the drivers side

[a_d_a_m]

Yep, I knew I had the name wrong! :D

[Turbov6Bryan]

Yep, I knew I had the name wrong! :D

My black MM had that leak, never could actually see it leak

Heard from everyone here that replacing the gasket would fix it, and it did....

No more leaks :)

[ledzilla]

Ah, I see. If that's what it is, great. But the leak looks to be coming from the passenger side. And whatever it is, it sprays directly onto the belt. Anywho, let's not hijack the thread.

[03Merc]

I purchased everything listed in the OP and installed it all this past weekend. Car runs great now and no more rattle at start up. Thanks Zack! [emoji1303][emoji1303]


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[ledzilla]

Tasca looks to have all of the OEM Ford parts (all for tensioner arms) in stock right now. And interestingly enough, cam covers, too.

[Zack]

I was told one of the ford parts is on national backorder. That was a few weeks ago

[03Merc]

I was told one of the ford parts is on national backorder. That was a few weeks ago



I got everything from the bay of e'z.


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[JBeezy]

What was the total cost of all the parts

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[03Merc]

What was the total cost of all the parts

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Probably about $300. If You look them up on eBay You can get an exact estimate.


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[JBeezy]

Not bad. My buddy just replaced his on his 05 Mustang. Think he spent close to $500

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[Black&Gifted]

A shop quoted me $2200 to do this on my aviator. I told them for that price, I'd just buy a remanufactured engine.

[Zack]

A shop quoted me $2200 to do this on my aviator. I told them for that price, I'd just buy a remanufactured engine.

I do it all day long for $500 WTF

[Black&Gifted]

I'll pay for your flight to Houston.

[ctrlraven]

Thread I started a couple years ago talking about the metal tensioners.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92299

Pictures from when I had mine replaced, new metal tensioners and guides.
NOTICE the Passenger side guide has ZERO nylon material on it. The chain actually grooved the metal of the guide.
Before:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/marauder/20140329_123053_zps8barexto.jp g
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/marauder/20140329_123142_zpscyawegh6.jp g
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/marauder/20140329_123147_zpsx1swxayr.jp g
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/marauder/20140329_123303_zpsmmy09ks3.jp g

After:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/marauder/20140329_154729_zpsitatkb3b.jp g

[ByronRACE]

How many miles are people seeing before these parts need replacing? I'm at 205K.

[03Merc]

How many miles are people seeing before these parts need replacing? I'm at 205K.



I changed mine at 117k, I started hearing start up noises around 105k. I believe they were all original parts inside.


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[Chard]

Did anyone have any experience with using the Ford Racing kit ? Currently the next item on my list to do on my MM. Just looking for options on what to use and the Ford Racing Kit is much cheaper than using the Standard ford kit.. Went to a local dealer and quoted me $600 for parts alone not including the necessary gaskets or seals..

[03Merc]

Did anyone have any experience with using the Ford Racing kit ? Currently the next item on my list to do on my MM. Just looking for options on what to use and the Ford Racing Kit is much cheaper than using the Standard ford kit.. Went to a local dealer and quoted me $600 for parts alone not including the necessary gaskets or seals..



Buy everything listed in the first post. No need to get "the kit" unless....Your engine was very neglected. Open it up, and diagnose!


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[Chard]

Buy everything listed in the first post. No need to get "the kit" unless....Your engine was very neglected. Open it up, and diagnose!

Im leaning towards the kit since my MM only has 73k on the Odometer and it already requires a Timing chain tensioner replacement compare to everyone else. i would rather just replace everything and prevent me from having to remove the cam covers again for something else.

[03Merc]

Im leaning towards the kit since my MM only has 73k on the Odometer and it already requires a Timing chain tensioner replacement compare to everyone else. i would rather just replace everything and prevent me from having to remove the cam covers again for something else.



Opened mine up at 115k and all that was required was the parts listed above....


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[Svashtar]

Two questions: 1) how difficult is this to do (subjective I know, but I've never gone this deep into the engine and need to know if any special tools are required), and 2) what symptoms does the car give to let you know this should be done?

I'm just turning 114k and haven't heard anything yet, but want to know what to listen / look for.

Thanks.


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[03Merc]

Two questions: 1) how difficult is this to do (subjective I know, but I've never gone this deep into the engine and need to know if any special tools are required), and 2) what symptoms does the car give to let you know this should be done?

I'm just turning 114k and haven't heard anything yet, but want to know what to listen / look for.

Thanks.


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Look for a rattle noise on cold start up. It's hard to do, if You've never done this b4. Yes special tools are required. I tore it apart, but had guidance getting it back together. Do it tho regardless, Every 100k Miles.


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[Svashtar]

Well, I have the parts list obviously, but just need the basic steps and tools, which I may have already.

I'll search the forums as in 13 years I'm sure someone's posted some of that info.

(My normal approach is to just "hit it with a big hammer," until it stops making the noise I don't want, or starts making the noise I do want, but maybe I'll dig deeper this time...[emoji6][emoji846])

Thanks for the tip on what to listen for.


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[69marquis conv]

I have completed this procedure on two 4.6 SOHC engines- the procedure is similar aside from the cam covers and the use of the cam locking tool. The first engine had 243k miles and the second was a 2003 with only 63k. The 2003s were supposedly prone to faulty guides- this one was fine when I opened it up but I replaced everything anyway.
I believe the cam locking tool may be necessary for the DOHC but I did not need to fully remove the cam covers on the SOHC. I loosened the front 70% of the cam cover fasteners just enough to barely lift the front of the cam covers to break the seal from the cam covers to front cover. Before you remove anything inside, be sure to put a zip tie around each chain at the crank to prevent the chain from slipping. I got careless on the second engine and the left chain slipped on me, so I then had to also remove the cam covers to re-time the engine.
The most difficult part of the job is removing the PS pump. The pump was a piece of cake on my high mileage engine, but a bear on the nearly new one! The high mileage pump bolts turned freely with fingers in and out after they were loosened, but the other engine required a wrench all the way out and in on the b!tch bolt.
A member on the crownvic.net site documented this procedure and I have a pdf of it but it's too large to attach here. You might check the site to get a copy. It will be very similar for the DOHC but keep in mind the part list will likely be different. I've attached images of timing the engine that slipped on me.

[Svashtar]

Thank you, appreciate the information!

I'll check the site ref, but do I need the cam alignment tool, the locking tool, or both? In looking online they're saying that for a 4 valve engjne I would need two of them, one for each side.

Thanks.

[69marquis conv]

I have not done this on a DOHC, but I believe that would be correct if you had both tensioners off at the same time, but you should remove and replace one side at a time and lock the side you are working on, then put the tool on the other side to service that side. I believe the cam tool is referred to as the cam locking tool. You won't be adjusting the cam so I don't think you'll need a tool for that, nor do I know what that tool is. Also you will remove the four bolts that hold the PS pump, but you will most likely not be able to remove the b1tch bolt completely from the pump due to the proximity of the hydraulic line. Just leave it in the pump as use it for realigning the pump back to the engine.

[FordNut]

291k and never had a valve cover unbolted. One of these days I'll open it up, it will be interesting to see the condition of everything inside.

Anyway, if you're going this far into the engine I believe it would be foolish to skip degreeing the cams.

[Svashtar]

I have not done this on a DOHC, but I believe that would be correct if you had both tensioners off at the same time, but you should remove and replace one side at a time and lock the side you are working on, then put the tool on the other side to service that side. I believe the cam tool is referred to as the cam locking tool. You won't be adjusting the cam so I don't think you'll need a tool for that, nor do I know what that tool is. Also you will remove the four bolts that hold the PS pump, but you will most likely not be able to remove the b1tch bolt completely from the pump due to the proximity of the hydraulic line. Just leave it in the pump as use it for realigning the pump back to the engine.



Thanks for the info; not dissing anyone for doing a great job maintaining their MM early on, but doing it in the 60k range seems like a bit of overkill, unless you had a problem?

Mine's running quiet for now, so think I'll wait another 30-40k or so and see how it's looking (sounding). That will get me at about 150k.

Thanks again.


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[BAD MERC]

Found this video on a 2003 Aviator with major failure but ignored and driven nonetheless. This is one of the best videos I have seen and could possibly be a tutorial to those that want to DIY this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPFv0veBO8k

[Svashtar]

Super interesting, thank you. These are great engines, I wonder why Ford dropped the cast iron tensioners and went with the plastic guides in '03. Too bad they cheaped out.

I think I can do this, but need to learn how to lock the cams so I don't have to retime. I'll need to do more research on how to do that before I make the attempt. Luckily it's running quiet for now.

Great video, thanks for posting. [emoji1531]


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[Paul]

Local speed shop just estimated cost of doing this for me at $1,567 (parts and labor). Ouch.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Using the lowest price items on Amazon for OEM items $349.96

[Svashtar]

Using the lowest price items on Amazon for OEM items $349.96


You can buy a lot of tools for $1200. I’d rather spend a total of $700-$800 and do it myself if possible.


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[Zack]

Local speed shop just estimated cost of doing this for me at $1,567 (parts and labor). Ouch.

I charge $500 labor. Usually takes me about 2 night after work

[Cosgrandmarquis]

Ok so I went to the RockAuto website, they have the CLOYES 95432 & 95433.
Are those the good tensioners? Looks like they no longer have whats on the parts list.

[03Merc]

Ok so I went to the RockAuto website, they have the CLOYES 95432 & 95433.

Are those the good tensioners? Looks like they no longer have whats on the parts list.



Get everything off of eBay....

See post #1 for proper parts.


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[SteelQualityMan]

Get everything off of eBay....

See post #1 for proper parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProOr buy the Ford Racing kit and a set of Felpro gaskets foŕ $$$. Cam locking tool $$ more.

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[03Merc]

Or buy the Ford Racing kit and a set of Felpro gaskets foŕ $$$. Cam locking tool $$ more.

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Not necessary!


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[SteelQualityMan]

Not necessary!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProOf course not. I was attempting a bit of irony, which apparently failed. On the other hand If one is going that far into the engine, it could be reassuring to know that you have exactly the right parts from the big blue oval fòlks. I have been told they even include all of the nuts and bolts needed for the job.

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[justbob]

Of course not. I was attempting a bit of irony, which apparently failed. On the other hand If one is going that far into the engine, it could be reassuring to know that you have exactly the right parts from the big blue oval fòlks. I have been told they even include all of the nuts and bolts needed for the job.

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New timing cover bolts.


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[Zack]

Ok so I went to the RockAuto website, they have the CLOYES 95432 & 95433.
Are those the good tensioners? Looks like they no longer have whats on the parts list.

Rockauto still sells the parts I have listed. Please do not spread dis-info

[crownvic97]

Rockauto still sells the parts I have listed.

Good to know!

[Cosgrandmarquis]

Rockauto still sells the parts I have listed. Please do not spread dis-info

Can you please post the link for the tensioners if they still
have the it on rockauto? It's showing me the other part numbers. Don't worry I'm not spreading any wrong info.

[Cosgrandmarquis]

Get everything off of eBay....

See post #1 for proper parts.


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Got have of the stuff, they sent me two left timming guides though

[Zack]

Can you please post the link for the tensioners if they still
have the it on rockauto? It's showing me the other part numbers. Don't worry I'm not spreading any wrong info.

Just enter 95338 and 95339 in the search bar. Came right up for me

[ledzilla]

I see where the confusion was in the part numbers. They aren't listed under the Marauder, but RockAuto does indeed still have them in stock. You find them if using the general search bar at the top of the page instead of the car-specific search bar when drilling down. I was looking it all up since I'm going to try to get parts ordered soon.

Also, as a side note, figured out the leak. It's just the power steering high pressure line. Looks to be leaking where the hose is crimped to the steel line.

[SteelQualityMan]

New timing cover bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDo the timing case bolts need to be replaced, or can the old ones be re-used?

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[fastblackmerc]

Do the timing case bolts need to be replaced, or can the old ones be re-used?

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You can reuse them.

[ledzilla]

So, where do you get the cam locking tool? I can only find it as part of a kit for $150+.

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[SteelQualityMan]

So, where do you get the cam locking tool? I can only find it as part of a kit for $150+.

Sent from my VS988 using TapatalkI bought mine from another member here. Someone else might have one for sale. BTW, I suggest based on my initial reading of the disassembly process you will want the Ford shop manual for the MM. Unless, of course, you have a member living near you who can help with the job. Living in fabulous Warsaw Indiana I am not so fortunate.

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[Zack]

YOU DO NOT NEED A CAM LOCKING TOOL.

It takes 10 minutes to time a mod motor, without any significant automotive background needed. You line up 2 dots, not difficult. Plenty of videos on youtube.

[03Merc]

YOU DO NOT NEED A CAM LOCKING TOOL.

It takes 10 minutes to time a mod motor, without any significant automotive background needed. You line up 2 dots, not difficult. Plenty of videos on youtube.



So true, I had no idea what I was doing but I learned with little to no guidance.


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[justbob]

I get all the info I need and more from alldatadiy.com.


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[ledzilla]

Ok, then I won't be concerning myself with that tool.

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[ledzilla]

I get all the info I need and more from alldatadiy.com.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI have a subscription to that site. But I haven't paid it much attention for a while. I guess it couldn't hurt to load it up and review some of it. Just don't remember if I set the initial car to the Marauder or my Buick. Only have one listed on it.

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[Turbov6Bryan]

Thank you for the list Zack. Very handy.

I would like to add the balancer bolt. This is the one i ordered.

F5RZ-6A340-B

[IndyMerc]

Is it just me or does the Moca timing set 89$ look exactly... and I mean exactly the same as the FRPP timing set. $549

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

The Moca unit does not include new bolts or screws. The $89 units use plastic guides. Melling makes 2 kits with steel guides. The better one is $508


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[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Is it just me or does the Moca timing set 89$ look exactly... and I mean exactly the same as the FRPP timing set. $549




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[DrZ]

It is time to add to this post with my experience 2004 Marauder with 148 K. I have start up rattle and metal sheen in the oil. I have all the Ford parts needed to complete this job including OEM oil pump. I have not yet pulled the timing cover but I am almost ready. All bolts are out except power steering. It seems cam covers should be removed and the oil pan. I want to change the oil pump and clean the pickup more likely than not. I would appreciate a simple opinion based on what is best practice. Remove the timing cover first and to see first hand damage will guide my decisions but I am inclined to just rebuild all worn items while it is open. I plan on keeping my black Marauder for at least 100 k more. I own a 2004 Silver Marauder. I have all the parts and the time to do it but taking out the oil pan may prove to be a painful overkill. Comments please but understand my Marauders are keepers. Original 2004 owner who will always keep them.

[justbob]

From my experience you can’t drop the pan unless you lower the K member down or remove the engine.


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[DrZ]

My 2004 Marauder is long over due for major updates. I have all the Ford parts needed for this rebuild. New ford kit with chains, guides, gaskets, bolts are ready and in my case needed. The timing chains, guides and tensioners need replacement at 148,000 miles but should have been replaced much earlier. My timing chain related problems are total wear and failure. The lower driver side guide is completely worn thru with large pieces of plastic and aluminium guide material in the oil pan. I think based on the chain and guides that putting off this wear item was/is foolish. I think oil pan removal for debris removal, oil pump replacement and pickup cleaning is a must. Thank you Justbob for the tuff truth about if removal of the oil pan is necessary you must take out the engine or drop the K member. Just received the oil pan gasket and ordered more parts. Big job ahead.