Crazy OBD II Issue (Kind of long)

[Ross]

I live in Texas, where in order to renew our annual registration and get a yearly inspection sticker, we have to have the car hooked up to a computer that reads certain required tests which are automatically sent to the state. An inspection station couldn't cheat even if they wanted to, because the state computer link either approves the inspection or not. My inspection/registration is due at the end of November, so I was going to get it inspected this week.
For several months I have had a Check Engine light on. Been to several auto parts stores that have free Check Engine diagnosis, all of them said that there is no code on the computer, they can't figure out why the light is on. Since I had no codes, and the light being on is an automatic disqualification, I asked the auto parts guy if he could turn off the light and he did.
Next morning (yesterday) I went in for inspection. The inspection computer showed that a light had recently been turned off, and the car's computer had not yet reset itself. The diagnostic printout showed Catalytic Converter and Evap "not ready." It did not say that the two systems were malfunctioning, just that they had not been reset on the car's computer and were not ready to be checked.
Inspection guy says no problem, drive it about 50 miles to give it a chance to reset and bring it back. I drove it about 65 miles, brought it back and it still said not ready. He said it sometimes takes longer, so drive it some more and bring it back.
He said that all I need is to get one of those two "not readies" to go away and the state system will approve the inspection with one not ready signal. Told me to keep driving and bring it back later.
Drove to the dealer where I know everyone. Service guy checks it out on his computer and says that everything is working, but agrees that it just needs to be driven more to reset the computer. Said to drive it on the freeway, hit passing gear a few times, drive it start and stop on the streets, AC on, AC off, and it will eventually reset.
Did what the dealer said, and took it back to inspection guy with about 60 additional miles on it (about 125 so far). Still shows two not ready signals. Inspection guy says to fill it with gas, drive it to about 3/4 tank, and bring it back so the evap might reset. Did that and took it back this morning, now with 185 miles since first inspection yesterday morning. Still two not readies.
Talked to my brother in law who has been a mechanic and shop manager for many years. He said that it's not so much an issue of how many miles you drive, but how many cold start cycles the car has had since the check engine light was turned off. He said not to just turn the engine on and off repeatedly, but start it cold, run it until it's warm, and turn it off. A couple of hours later when it is cold again, repeat the process. Obviously something that takes some time. He said that usually about 3 cycles like that will do it, but it can vary.
I counted about 4 cycles like that since yesterday morning. Went back to the inspector this afternoon and still two not readies.
WTF?
Anyone ever heard of anything like this? If you are not in Texas you may not have to deal with this kind of system.
I need to get this thing inspected before the end of the month.
Thanks in advance.

[RubberCtyRauder]

google search "Ford driving cycle ". its pretty extensive, generally shows a p1000 code

[RF Overlord]

MA is exactly like Texas for emissions inspections. The only difference is that the one I/M monitor that is allowed to be not ready cannot be the Catalyst.

The Evap monitor will not run unless the engine has been off for a minimum of 6 hours, the fuel level is between 15% and 85%, and the vehicle speed is between 40 and 80 MPH. The catalyst monitor has somewhat more complex readiness parameters; your best bet is to perform the full Ford drive cycle.

[Lowndex]

OMG. I cannot wait to see what is in store for me here in EPAfornia.

[justbob]

In this day and age why doesn't everybody own a cheap POS scanner?

They tell you the code, clear codes, & IM READINESS CHECKS...

Amongst soooo much more.

Look at all these wasted trips you've made. For $17 you could drive and monitor ALL the monitors.

First one that popped up >


http://m.tmart.com/MS309-OBD2-Scanner-Car-Diagnostic-Code-Reader_p133253.html?cc=USD&fixed_price=us_us&gclid=CK7Esvqqn9ACFYESgQod4OcP kQ




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[Ross]

What good does it do me to buy a monitor and monitor the codes? I need to get everything cleared and ready for test, and a monitor won't do that.
I Googled the drive cycle, and it is totally impossible to perform in a city.
Drive a certain distance at a given speed
Stop a certain way
Drive on the highway at a given speed
Exit a long off ramp in a certain way.
Etc
Etc
Try doing all of that in a crowded city with other traffic dictating the driving conditions.
So without being able to do all of the detailed drive cycle, I just need to drive the thing over a cliff because I will never be able to get it inspected?
Can you tell I'm just a little frustrated?
Anybody want to buy a MM that you will never be able to legally drive?

[RubberCtyRauder]

ive heard it taking 2 weeks and 300 miles of varying driving for monitors to be ready. are you trying to pass on rheinharts tune? it wont let you pass, monitors are prolly turned off

[Black&Gifted]

What good does it do me to buy a monitor and monitor the codes? I need to get everything cleared and ready for test, and a monitor won't do that.

I Googled the drive cycle, and it is totally impossible to perform in a city.

Drive a certain distance at a given speed

Stop a certain way

Drive on the highway at a given speed

Exit a long off ramp in a certain way.

Etc

Etc

Try doing all of that in a crowded city with other traffic dictating the driving conditions.

So without being able to do all of the detailed drive cycle, I just need to drive the thing over a cliff because I will never be able to get it inspected?

Can you tell I'm just a little frustrated?

Anybody want to buy a MM that you will never be able to legally drive?


Patience. I'm in Houston as well and have never had a problem clearing the p1000 code. The beltway and hardy are your friends...

Grand parkway, I hear, is operator friendly as well.


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[Black&Gifted]

as RCR mentioned, do you have a tune? Any exhaust mods or otherwise?


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[justbob]

What good does it do me to buy a monitor and monitor the codes?


According to your original post it would have saved you from several trips to the auto part store, five trips to the inspection place, one trip to the dealer, and talking to a relative. Time is money.

With a scanner you know in seconds if it's ready to pass or if there is an issue. In your case there is in fact an issue if the lights been on for months.

Clearing a light does absolutely nothing but reset all monitors. You more than likely have a pending code stored that has not become a hard fault code yet. In that case you look at the effected monitor to give you an idea of where to start.

Let's pretend it was the Cat efficiency monitor. You would simply start looking for vacuum leaks, use your scanner to count the lean/rich bounces on the o2 sensors (google is your friend, it's stupid easy and anyone can do it), or read the Cat temps and compare left to right, once again, with a scanner..

Or pay the dealer. You probably have a small vacuum leak and your computer has compensated for it so you won't notice. Or the o2 sensors are way out of there life cycle. They are pretty much your "tune up" parts for modern day cars.

So that's what good a scanner can do for you.




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[junior]

Will disconnecting the battery for a 1/2 hour fix a hardware/software glitch?

[EMAS]

The reason you want a scan tool or blue tooth dongle and program/app is so that you stop wasting so much time. It will help you to get the monitors to run. For example for the EVAP to run the vehicle has to be started with a min cold soak of 8 hrs, and the computer must believe the fuel level is between 15% and 85%. That has nothing to do with what is showing on the fuel gauge which does not correspond with the FLI value. The gauge is buffered by the computer and is designed to tell you what they want you to believe, like most of the other gauges in the car. You'll also want to see that the car believes the ambient temp is based on the intake or ambient temp sensors. It won't run the test if it sees a temp outside of 40-100 degrees when you turn the key. Again it is not what the thermometer or weather man says the temp is it is what the computer thinks the temp is. Which is why you need the scan tool to verify that data so you don't waste a lot of time and gas.

This version specifies exactly what conditions are necessary for the various tests. http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html Just focus on the conditions for the monitor(s) that have not run. Depending on the tool you are using monitor the test status and you can call it quits once that particular monitor has run. Many times it will run much quicker than the length of time they recommend in the drive cycle.

Note it gives directions for how to make the car bypass the EVAP if the temp is outside of those ranges in two consecutive trips with the minimum cold soak time between key off and key back on.

Personally I just picked up OBDLink MX because it supports MS CAN giving access to more Ford specific modules when used with the Forscan program. The App that they include works great for monitoring the things you need to run the tests. The windows version of Forscan on the other hand will let you do most if not everything that can be done with the factory Ford scan tool, including things like read codes from the LCM or make it run its self test.

[Lowndex]

In this day and age why doesn't everybody own a cheap POS scanner?

They tell you the code, clear codes, & IM READINESS CHECKS...

Amongst soooo much more.

Look at all these wasted trips you've made. For $17 you could drive and monitor ALL the monitors.

First one that popped up >


http://m.tmart.com/MS309-OBD2-Scanner-Car-Diagnostic-Code-Reader_p133253.html?cc=USD&fixed_price=us_us&gclid=CK7Esvqqn9ACFYESgQod4OcP kQ




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A great suggestion. I bought the Innova 3160e.

[martyo]

In this day and age why doesn't everybody own a cheap POS scanner?

They tell you the code, clear codes, & IM READINESS CHECKS...

Amongst soooo much more.

Look at all these wasted trips you've made. For $17 you could drive and monitor ALL the monitors.

First one that popped up >


http://m.tmart.com/MS309-OBD2-Scanner-Car-Diagnostic-Code-Reader_p133253.html?cc=USD&fixed_price=us_us&gclid=CK7Esvqqn9ACFYESgQod4OcP kQ




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I say this ll the time!

Hell, i will not buy a post '96 car without bringing my scanner with me!!!

[justbob]

I say this ll the time!



Hell, i will not buy a post '96 car without bringing my scanner with me!!!



I just bought my boy an '04 Sable. I was plugged in before I even bothered opening the hood. I don't even ask. To me it's just common sense a buyer would want to know if their about to be hosed.


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[martyo]

I just bought my boy an '04 Sable. I was plugged in before I even bothered opening the hood. I don't even ask. To me it's just common sense a buyer would want to know if their about to be hosed.


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This is why we get along.

[tbone]

According to your original post it would have saved you from several trips to the auto part store, five trips to the inspection place, one trip to the dealer, and talking to a relative. Time is money.

With a scanner you know in seconds if it's ready to pass or if there is an issue. In your case there is in fact an issue if the lights been on for months.

Clearing a light does absolutely nothing but reset all monitors. You more than likely have a pending code stored that has not become a hard fault code yet. In that case you look at the effected monitor to give you an idea of where to start.

Let's pretend it was the Cat efficiency monitor. You would simply start looking for vacuum leaks, use your scanner to count the lean/rich bounces on the o2 sensors (google is your friend, it's stupid easy and anyone can do it), or read the Cat temps and compare left to right, once again, with a scanner..

Or pay the dealer. You probably have a small vacuum leak and your computer has compensated for it so you won't notice. Or the o2 sensors are way out of there life cycle. They are pretty much your "tune up" parts for modern day cars.

So that's what good a scanner can do for you.

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Bob, you have the patience of a saint.

[stevengerard]

Bob, you have the patience of a saint.

Actually, just a great guy that if he speaks up in a post he actually gives some thoughtful and helpful advice.

[tbone]

Actually, just a great guy that if he speaks up in a post he actually gives some thoughtful and helpful advice.

lol Where's yours? :confused:

[Ross]

OK, guys, I appreciate all of the help, but I have taken the car to the dealer, and I assume he has a scanner. At least he hooked it up to something that said there is nothing wrong with the car and no trouble codes. I don't think I could do anything more with a scanner than the dealer did.
I have always known that a lot of guys here are much more electronically and mechanically minded than I am, and what seems crazy simple for some of you who are used to using certain instruments confuses the hell out of me.
I am trying to pass with a Reinhart tune, but the car has been passing with that same tune for about a dozen years, so I don't think that should be a problem. I will pay for anyone who can put his hands on the car and actually fix this issue. I certainly can't do it.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Take the tune off, put stock tune in ..drive it for a week, test it.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Does the dealer know you have a non-stock performance tune? if not they may come back saying you need a pcm, a re-flash and all sorts of stuff, because your parameters wont match the factory ranges

[martyo]

Ross call me in my cell if you want to discuss.

914-582-6262

[Black&Gifted]

Take the tune off, put stock tune in ..drive it for a week, test it.

while this would generally be a good option, he has 4.10s. speedo and shifts will be off.

otherwise, there doesn't seem to be any other mods in his signature that would really prevent him from putting the stock tune back in, assuming he doesn't have any other mods.

[stevengerard]

lol Where's yours? :confused:

Smart enough to take it, not smart enough to give it:D

[RF Overlord]

I don't think I could do anything more with a scanner than the dealer did.Actually, you can. Many code scanners have what is called an OBD Readiness Check. This displays the state of all the I/M monitors so you don't have to guess and potentially waste time going back multiple times to a dealer or inspection station only to find out you aren't ready. It will also save time in letting you know exactly when you do become ready so you can get the inspection as soon as possible instead of driving around for days after the car becomes ready because you didn't know it.

[Ross]

Does the dealer know you have a non-stock performance tune? if not they may come back saying you need a pcm, a re-flash and all sorts of stuff, because your parameters wont match the factory ranges

Yes, I have been going to this dealer for years with this same tune. I have also gone to this same inspection station which has passed the car every year with this tune.

[tbone]

Smart enough to take it, not smart enough to give it:D

Alrighty then....

[martyo]

Ross call me in my cell if you want to discuss.

914-582-6262

Good speaking to you today Ross!

[Ross]

Thanks for your help, old buddy! Wish I could make a road trip to come to your shop.

[Mr. Man]

The Reinhart tune is the issue. Not that there is anything wrong with it, but I'd bet Texas upgraded their inspection process and will only pass OEM tunes. We had the same issue with a Zack tune. Passed for years then all of a sudden fail city. Marty from Mo's is a good place to find out what can be done. I'd bet he can set you in the right direction.

[martyo]

Thanks for your help, old buddy! Wish I could make a road trip to come to your shop.

Damn, don't tease me!!

[EMAS]

The Reinhart tune is the issue. Not that there is anything wrong with it, but I'd bet Texas upgraded their inspection process and will only pass OEM tunes. We had the same issue with a Zack tune. Passed for years then all of a sudden fail city. Marty from Mo's is a good place to find out what can be done. I'd bet he can set you in the right direction.

No it isn't passing because the Cat and EVAP monitors haven't run since the computer is reset. If it said not supported for those items then it would be due to a tune that had those functions turned off though I've not heard of turning off the EVAP in the tune while it is pretty common to turn off the rear O2 sensor which is what checks the Cat's function.

[martyo]

No it isn't passing because the Cat and EVAP monitors haven't run since the computer is reset. If it said not supported for those items then it would be due to a tune that had those functions turned off though I've not heard of turning off the EVAP in the tune while it is pretty common to turn off the rear O2 sensor which is what checks the Cat's function.

I know you create this stuff for a living but we've seen more than one tuner's tunes do this. If the settings in the SCT, or other brand software, are not "right" this result can occur.

[Ross]

Well, this gets crazier and crazier. After driving over the weekend, and more cold start cycles, went back for a recheck this morning. A different guy was there and he looked at the printouts from my previous visits. He said:
"Look at this. The reports from last week say that there are two 'not readies', but the overall result says PASS. All we have to do is run this back through the state system and you should get OK'ed. I don't know why the last guy didn't do it."
So he proceeds to hook me up to the system and do everything just like the last guy did. Only instead of assuming that the state wouldn't pass me with two "not readies", he instead focused on the overall PASS signal. A couple of minutes later a report came back from the state with a PASS.
If the first guy had known what the heck he was doing, I could have had a valid inspection a week ago.
Thanks for all of the advice, guys.
I think my next move is to buy a new, updated X-Cal III ( I have the old X-Cal II) with a modern tune from Marty.

[martyo]

Well, this gets crazier and crazier. After driving over the weekend, and more cold start cycles, went back for a recheck this morning. A different guy was there and he looked at the printouts from my previous visits. He said:
"Look at this. The reports from last week say that there are two 'not readies', but the overall result says PASS. All we have to do is run this back through the state system and you should get OK'ed. I don't know why the last guy didn't do it."
So he proceeds to hook me up to the system and do everything just like the last guy did. Only instead of assuming that the state wouldn't pass me with two "not readies", he instead focused on the overall PASS signal. A couple of minutes later a report came back from the state with a PASS.
If the first guy had known what the heck he was doing, I could have had a valid inspection a week ago.
Thanks for all of the advice, guys.
I think my next move is to buy a new, updated X-Cal III ( I have the old X-Cal II) with a modern tune from Marty.

This is good news!!

[Chayton]

Actually, you can. Many code scanners have what is called an OBD Readiness Check. This displays the state of all the I/M monitors so you don't have to guess and potentially waste time going back multiple times to a dealer or inspection station only to find out you aren't ready. It will also save time in letting you know exactly when you do become ready so you can get the inspection as soon as possible instead of driving around for days after the car becomes ready because you didn't know it.

This is exactly what Im going to do to pass my smog.

[MADRODER]

Well I also just went in and received a fail due to the same code plus an additional EVAP code P0442. I do have a scanner but stupid me for not testing it before I went in.