Help! No start

[dmjarosz]

Was going to put my Rauder away for the winter today. Started it up in the driveway and it let warm up for 10-15 minutes. I shut if off to put a few things in the trunk before I drove off. When I started it back up, it was stumbling, the battery light was on, idle RPM was very low. I blipped the gas to get it going and it died. Now it wont start. I've cranked and cranked. Grrrrr :mad:

So far I can tell the fuel pump isnt running (I cant hear it run and theres no pressure in the fuel rail). The other weird part is that the radio doesnt work and neither do the door locks. All other interior electronics seem to work fine. Also, none of the buttons on the key fob remote work either.

Ive checked all the fuses I think could cause it and they all are fine. any ideas???

Immediate help is much appreciated.

Thanks

[a_d_a_m]

any ideas???

Immediate help is much appreciated. Everything you've described as inop is electronically controlled. Depending on what still works, they may require such low voltage that the battery can still power them. So....did you check your battery? Swap with a known good battery and see if there is any improvement first. It's easy enough.

[RubberCtyRauder]

low battery makes odd things happen in these cars just as ADAM has suggested. check battery with car off with volt meter. then check it with car running. need 12 volts when off, and 14 - 14.6 at idle. if itvchecks out, Fuel pump fuse is the 20 amp fuse in position 5 in the fuse box underhood behind battery

[Turbov6Bryan]

Put a meter on the battery, what is your voltage?

Check ALL your fuses

If you get too frustrated with the car I'll buy it for $8.00 lol


My car with a bad cell in the battery would make it 200 feet and die after being jumped and charged for 5 mins. All sorts of lights on the dash were on, but MY fuel pump worked fine.

Post up, were here to help :)

[Ambitious1]

I agree with the other members here. Thinking the battery. Also check the alternator.

[dmjarosz]

Upadate: The car started after some time just sitting there... Didnt really change anything. The only thing I can think was that I jiggled the ECU diodes in the fuse box under the hood. It stared immediately after playing with those. (not sure how that could have made a difference) Battery checked out fine when off and running. 12.1 off and 13.9 at idle. Drove the car 30 miles to the storage place where she's hibernating for the next 4-5 months.

[mm svt]

Good thing it didn't jiggle on the way there.!

[dmjarosz]

That's why I want to know what happened. I don't need that happening on the highway at 70 mph a hundred miles from home

[dmjarosz]

So almost a year later and my no-start problem as resurfaced. I went to lock the car using the key fob and herd the door locks actuate but didnt hear the usual horn chirp. Thinking i pushed the wrong button, I locked the doors again and this time I heard nothing. So i get into the car using the key (I cant remember the last time I used a key to unlock a car door) and do some investigating. Here is a list of what doesnt work:
-All buttons on the key fob
-radio
-horn
-both driver and passenger door lock switches
-trunk button on door
-fuel pump (cant hear the usual whine/hum)
-sunroof switch
-12v outlet inside center console
-Also kinda odd, the drivers heated seat switch turns off after about a second of being switched on

All other electronics work fine, including interior and exterior lighting. Battery was new last year and has worked flawlessly as my daily driver this entire summer.

My plan of attack is to check for 12v at the PFDM to see if its a power issue or signal issue. Beyond that, Im going to study wiring diagrams and go from there.

Can anyone help?

[RubberCtyRauder]

known wiring harness issues of rubbing.chafing..behind drivers heads it rubs on a post..passenger fender well and in front under radiator cover..has the car ever been in a front accident?

[dmjarosz]

known wiring harness issues of rubbing.chafing..behind drivers heads it rubs on a post..passenger fender well and in front under radiator cover..has the car ever been in a front accident?

Yes i hit a deer about 4 years ago. Replaced, hood, LF fender, left headlight, grille, a.c condenser, and radiator/headlight support structure

[fastblackmerc]

Yes i hit a deer about 4 years ago. Replaced, hood, LF fender, left headlight, grille, a.c condenser, and radiator/headlight support structure

Check for chaffed cables behind the drivers side cam cover and the left front harness beneath the headlight.

[dmjarosz]

Thanks I'll start there. I put a thicker sleeve over the cam cover bundle when I did my Eaton swap so Im 98.4% sure thats not the issue.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows where there components get their power from? The last time this happened (symptoms were identical), all fuses checked OK leading me to believe its something to do with either a control module or something upstream of the fuses. Power distribution relay? Distribution box wiring?

[Fastbob]

Another place that can cause issues is the short cable that goes from the positive battery cable to the underhood fuse box. Make sure the connection to the underhood fuse box is not corroded or loose.

[dmjarosz]

Another place that can cause issues is the short cable that goes from the positive battery cable to the underhood fuse box. Make sure the connection to the underhood fuse box is not corroded or loose.

I'm Eaton swapped so my battery is relocated to the driver's side. That was the first thing I checked and its perfectly fine and clean. Plus if that cable came loose, Id lose power to everything.

[Fastbob]

:argue:
I'm Eaton swapped so my battery is relocated to the driver's side. That was the first thing I checked and its perfectly fine and clean. Plus if that cable came loose, Id lose power to everything.Eaton Swapped, there's your problem. LOL Best of luck with it.

[mm svt]

Rileys car was slow to start then the crank position sensor failed

[dmjarosz]

:argue:Eaton Swapped, there's your problem. LOL Best of luck with it.

Part of me wonders if its something I did during the swap, the other part realizes the car is almost 14 years old.

[1Marauder]

Replace swap out relays.

[dmjarosz]

Replace swap out relays.

That is high on the list. The ECU diodes as well. They are are cheap, easy place to start.

One circuit I can easily trace is the power outlet in the center console since its not connected to any module and is always-hot.

Does anyone have a diagram of that circuit they'd be willing to share?

[RF Overlord]

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

[MyBlackBeasts]

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

That is a AWESOME resource! Thanks!

[dmjarosz]

That link is epic!

[mm svt]

That link is epic!



It is absolutely

[paparauder]

I would look very closely at the battery. Might be half way to a bad cell. Have it tested internally. Sounds like computer is cutting power to keep running.