engine

[MunsterBro95]

So, I know I have asked a lot of questions in the short time I have been here, but have another. My MM is being stored until around tax time, maybe a little later. The wife said get a beater now and I could do whatever I want to the marauder next year. Was reading some post about upgrades and motor swaps, but not seeing anything super recent and I know technology and strategies are changing all the time. Just wondering what would be the best way to go for the marauder. Just want something that stays reliable but modern. maybe around 400-500 horsepower. Any idea what setup, ie motor and supercharger, procharger, turbo, and gears. As stated in another forum, currently live in Germany so the speed limit is 80 on the autobahn, when there is on. wouldn't go over 100 hardly ever. Not sure what motor and all to go with. Previous guy put a hole in the original block so cant reuse it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Oh and any idea what my budget should look like for this, ie purchasing motor and parts, etc. Not sure where to look and what parts to look for.

[RubberCtyRauder]

starting from scratch if you need to have the work done for you $15k-20k for motor and blower, and easily can exceed that especially with being in Germany. and better add 30% for overages, unforeseen. There are no supercharger or turbo kits for these cars any longer, it's all piece it together EXCEPT for the vortech kit from ADTR.net.

The more power you go, the more you need to consider upgrading to 31 spline axles/carrier, transmission upgrade, brake upgrade, control arm, sway bar upgrade. this can add $5-6k or more especially if replacing trans

These are just my estimates based on being here and seeing what others have done, spent and what I have done and plan to do yet. It's good to plan in advance and better to decide a budget range and then build it accordingly rather than have high expectations and run out of funds and have it not completed. Most do it in steps over time, unless you are able to do it all at once. Build the foundation strong..internal engine and supporting parts and build up.

[MunsterBro95]

So you are saying start with a foundation, i.e. Buying and building the motor and get everything ready like the trans and brakes. And then go to the supercharger. Cuz 20 is high but at least i have a ball park. Not sure where to start. Any idea what motor I should go with? Stay 4.6 or swap for something else? Don't know much about 4.6. I have looked up some of there potential. Just trying to get opinions of what people have done and what's best

[MunsterBro95]

Thanks for the help btw

[RubberCtyRauder]

Buy a long block..it comes with pistons, crank, rods..then you put the Marauder intake on it, front cover etc. what is needed from the marauder. If you need to have a shop install it and get it running it adds cost..alot..my numbers are estimates based on having it installed, do the work yourself and it saves money. Plus I am basing on new parts..

You need to stay with a 4.6 based block, but there are stroker ones for 5.0 and 5.3 liters but same external dimensions. you need to use your trans. A coyote swap is not practical and your trans can not be used with it and the marauder pcm wont control the trans for the coyote, a separate controller is due to be out soon. some day soon, they will be a more mainstream swap.

I'm not an expert, I try to pass on info I have seen here over the years, I may not always be 100% right. but usually in the right ballpark.

The super charger from ADTR is over $6k not installed and not tuned. a trans rebuild $1800+. a new one already built for higher hp $3k.. That Trilogy blower that was on the car before you got it was $6500, but they are discontinued now.

It adds up fast..I bought mine with most of it on it already way cheaper, but I plan to upgrade it to be over 500 rwhp.

[Gryphonzus]

I have a stock block and am running 480hp to the wheels. The transmission is a stage 2 and the rear end was stock until recently. If you are not going to be beating it a lot then stock works. I have been pushing mine hard from stops lately and finally my transmission and rear end need work so I am upgrading to 31 spline rear end and transmission repair. It has probably been run over 30,000 miles this way so it has been pretty dependable. As stated earlier a supercharger setup is going to be over $6000.00 new. Since you are not in a hurry keep looking on this site and you might find a deal on a slightly used setup like I did a little cheaper. Good luck on your upgrades.

[RF Overlord]

Welcome to the joys of owning a car that didn't quite live up to its billing, was cancelled after only 2 years, and was never sold in your country.

Seriously, I love mine but you're in for an adventure, especially in the home land of AMGs and the 7 Series.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Sometimes it's just cheaper and easier to buy it already built. Since your across the pond, your going to struggle trying to build a car that far away

There's a 60k original owner forged short block, vortec blown black marauder for sale here for 15k

Sometimes you can buy a blower kit with a marauder attached for a really good price.

[MunsterBro95]

Welcome to the joys of owning a car that didn't quite live up to its billing, was cancelled after only 2 years, and was never sold in your country.

Seriously, I love mine but you're in for an adventure, especially in the home land of AMGs and the 7 Series.

I am actually from louisiana but currently active duty army stationed in germany

[RF Overlord]

Sorry for the confusion, and thank you for your service. :up:

[MunsterBro95]

Sorry for the confusion, and thank you for your service. :up:

It's ok. In your defense, I accidentally said live in Germany rather than stationed here. And thx. I love serving my country. Has it's ups and downs but let me see Germany for 3 years. 1 year down and 2 to go

[RF Overlord]

Heh...I think I keep confusing you with Marvin...MGDriver...who is a German citizen.

[Spectragod]

starting from scratch if you need to have the work done for you $15k-20k for motor and blower, and easily can exceed that especially with being in Germany. and better add 30% for overages, unforeseen. There are no supercharger or turbo kits for these cars any longer, it's all piece it together EXCEPT for the vortech kit from ADTR.net.

The more power you go, the more you need to consider upgrading to 31 spline axles/carrier, transmission upgrade, brake upgrade, control arm, sway bar upgrade. this can add $5-6k or more especially if replacing trans

These are just my estimates based on being here and seeing what others have done, spent and what I have done and plan to do yet. It's good to plan in advance and better to decide a budget range and then build it accordingly rather than have high expectations and run out of funds and have it not completed. Most do it in steps over time, unless you are able to do it all at once. Build the foundation strong..internal engine and supporting parts and build up.

^^^THIS^^^, I have 30k+ in my motor, plus trans, rear end, brakes.....it gets expensive....fast.


Cuz 20 is high

20k would be a deal if you need everything.


Sometimes it's just cheaper and easier to buy it already built. Since your across the pond, your going to struggle trying to build a car that far away

There's a 60k original owner forged short block, vortec blown black marauder for sale here for 15k

Sometimes you can buy a blower kit with a marauder attached for a really good price.

^^^THIS^^^ best bet right here, and... you have a parts car.:D

[Black&Gifted]

^^^THIS^^^, I have 30k+ in my motor, plus trans, rear end, brakes.....it gets expensive....fast.


Does that $30k include the blower or just long block plus the other items you mentioned?

Nonetheless, I agree it is usually cheaper to buy a car that is already built, assuming it was built right.

[Spectragod]

Does that $30k include the blower or just long block plus the other items you mentioned?

Nonetheless, I agree it is usually cheaper to buy a car that is already built, assuming it was built right.

Open the hood, what you see, 30k'ish, motor, blower, headers, custom catch cans, killer chiller, accusump and all the custom one off brackets and parts that were made specific for my application.

Can it be done for less, yep, I got it the way I wanted it to be, the next guy may be happy with a Eaton and 400rwhp. I'm not that guy.:rolleyes:

[Black&Gifted]

Horsepower costs $$$. Making it look good = more $$$.


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[Spectragod]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/e6a90ac16bc6e0b90faf119922f9f0 70.jpg


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[MunsterBro95]

So somebody mentioned doing a 4.6 3V today? Anyone know the pros of using this motor. Or if it's worth it?

[Turbov6Bryan]

So somebody mentioned doing a 4.6 3V today? Anyone know the pros of using this motor. Or if it's worth it?

Just as many other 4.6 shortblocks, you can slap your heads and other marauder specific parts right on it

The 3v 4.6 will give you less compression ratio, but it's a decent shortblock...

I would suggest YOU find a aviator long block or a running MM engine

[justbob]

So somebody mentioned doing a 4.6 3V today? Anyone know the pros of using this motor. Or if it's worth it?



I don't think the compression is too much lower than the Marauder. From what I remember at least, maybe someone knows the numbers better.

Regardless, lower is lower and power will be down. I know all too well with my cobra block and no blower for the time being. You don't notice a change at all till you punch it. Mine sounds good, but feels like I'm going back in time..


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[Turbov6Bryan]

Also. You mentioned going much higher hp in the future... the 3v shortblock will blow up just as easily as the 2v and 4v shortblocks

They all were not built with boost in mind. They will hold up to 440 or a little more rwhp, but all have pencil diameter sized rods,.. that is the downfall of these plentiful motors

Did your heads survive the explosion?

You could buy a built shortblock with brand new block, crank, rods ect that will hold 800 hp for around 4K

Buying a stock motor now is twice the work if you want more hp later...

[RubberCtyRauder]

marauder block good for alot more than 440 hp. its the powder metal internals that are the issue

[lji372]

I read the 3v from an 09 mustang is 9.8.
That's what I used anyway with a trilogy.

[Spectragod]

I read the 3v from an 09 mustang is 9.8.
That's what I used anyway with a trilogy.



I have seen this car, with boost, all will be well.


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[Turbov6Bryan]

marauder block good for alot more than 440 hp. its the powder metal internals that are the issue

I was saying any factory built 2v 3v 4v is reliability sound for 440 rwhp.... I'm sure many have done more,... but too easy to snap a rod, they be tiny!!

Just my personal opinion:

Adding forged rods and Pistons onto the WAP aluminum block and cast crank is good for around 600-650rwhp. Why try and build the WAP when either the block will split, or the crank will snap at power level?

Build a new steel block with Kellogg crank, h or I beam rods, forged Pistons and have a foundation for 750+. Heck there's a few 03 cobras at 1000 rwhp on the stock long block. Got to love it!!

Many people start adding up how expensive it can get to build a mod motor and just go pushrod :flamer:

[RubberCtyRauder]

nobody here has written of a marauder wap block failure. even Lidio says it should be good for 1000 hp. I'm talking block only, not internals. mine is stock block with forged internals and im turning the wick up next year another 100 hp.

[massacre]

If your budget is 30 grand or anywhere near it, I would swap a coyote in and never look back. Just IMHO since you said fast but modern. 2003-4 technology isn't so "modern" anymore.

[Turbov6Bryan]

If your budget is 30 grand or anywhere near it, I would swap a coyote in and never look back. Just IMHO since you said fast but modern. 2003-4 technology isn't so "modern" anymore.

I found a wrecked manual 2012 GT 5.0 in NY for 3800.00. Runs and drives

If I found a auto 5.0 local that cheap, I would have a tough time not buying it

If I could get a late 14 or 15 and up with the better heads I would be McLovin it

[lji372]

I was saying any factory built 2v 3v 4v is reliability sound for 440 rwhp.... I'm sure many have done more,... but too easy to snap a rod, they be tiny!!

Just my personal opinion:

Adding forged rods and Pistons onto the WAP aluminum block and cast crank is good for around 600-650rwhp. Why try and build the WAP when either the block will split, or the crank will snap at power level?

Build a new steel block with Kellogg crank, h or I beam rods, forged Pistons and have a foundation for 750+. Heck there's a few 03 cobras at 1000 rwhp on the stock long block. Got to love it!!

Many people start adding up how expensive it can get to build a mod motor and just go pushrod :flamer:

Taxi car is 850whp with a stock block :beatnik:

[Turbov6Bryan]

Taxi car is 850whp with a stock block :beatnik:

I stand corrected. I thought teksid was the go to aluminum after 650

What rotating assy?

[MOTOWN]

The stock block is good to 1K hp , the only reason I went Teksid is because the WAP block I have needs to bored 10 over , and Jerry had a very nice low milage Teksid with excellent standard bores you can still see the honing stone crosshatch!

[BeanSS]

Also. You mentioned going much higher hp in the future... the 3v shortblock will blow up just as easily as the 2v and 4v shortblocks

They all were not built with boost in mind. They will hold up to 440 or a little more rwhp, but all have pencil diameter sized rods,.. that is the downfall of these plentiful motors

Did your heads survive the explosion?

You could buy a built shortblock with brand new block, crank, rods ect that will hold 800 hp for around 4K

Buying a stock motor now is twice the work if you want more hp later...

Mine didn't...:bigcry::bigcry: