Going to buy a stall converter

[lifespeed]

Probably Circle D multi-disk 10-1/4". Will probably do 2,600 RPM to go with a 15 psi ADTR/Vortech V2 and 5.0L Livernois engine with small cams and ported heads. Stock exhaust (manifolds and cats to Stainless works cat back) at first, shorty JBA headers after I get it through the first emissions test.

Would be quicker at the drags with a 3,000 stall, but I think it would annoy me on the street.

[Chayton]

Nice. Yes I think with a supercharger 3000 on the streets would be annoying/dangerous lol

[lifespeed]

The guy at Circle D talked me into the 2C pump/stator 3,000 RPM (including the added supercharger torque), although I insisted on the tighter, larger 10-1/4" unit.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Go with the higher stall. 3000 isn't that high even for a daily driver

How many cars have you owned with 2800-4000 rpm stall? Serious question


It's not like your at 3000 just to get the car moving LOL:)

Take the selling vendors advice, go 3000. It's a mod motor for gods sake

[Turbov6Bryan]

Nice. Yes I think with a supercharger 3000 on the streets would be annoying/dangerous lol

It's not at all. Higher rpm and light throttle, instant boost if you want it

Silver car has 4:11 gears, 3500 stall vortec v2 and 440 rwhp. It drives great,.. even in rain!! Not joking. It can get stupid real quick,.. same with cars with bald tires in the rain

Just drive it normal :)

[lifespeed]

Go with the higher stall. 3000 isn't that high even for a daily driver

How many cars have you owned with 2800-4000 rpm stall? Serious question


It's not like your at 3000 just to get the car moving LOL:)

Take the selling vendors advice, go 3000. It's a mod motor for gods sake

I have had two stall converters on older cars, they were in the 3,500 - 4,000 RPM range.

I'm getting the 3,000 Circle D.

[Lowndex]

I went with Circle-D, 10.25, 3200 stall, Model: Ford 258 mm Pro III.

[Chayton]

It's not at all. Higher rpm and light throttle, instant boost if you want it

Silver car has 4:11 gears, 3500 stall vortec v2 and 440 rwhp. It drives great,.. even in rain!! Not joking. It can get stupid real quick,.. same with cars with bald tires in the rain

Just drive it normal :)

I guess im just getting used to my 3500. Its just SO easy to get sideways, especially in the rain.

[MOTOWN]

The guy at Circle D talked me into the 2C pump/stator 3,000 RPM (including the added supercharger torque), although I insisted on the tighter, larger 10-1/4" unit.

This will be perfect for the size Vortech you are going with , a 3000 stall Tripple disc Circle D is your best option.

[stevengerard]

I think you will be happy with the 3000. I for one have a DD with 476 RWHP, 3500 stall and 4:10s - I likey!

[Turbov6Bryan]

This will be perfect for the size Vortech you are going with , a 3000 stall Tripple disc Circle D is your best option.

Because those old school 5 disc chatter so much at idle. Ask me how I know :)

Circle D makes very nice converters

[Chayton]

Because those old school 5 disc chatter so much at idle. Ask me how I know :)

Circle D makes very nice converters

Sometimes when Im driving at certain low rpms under load, I hear this very faint chattering sound... I have no idea what it is. I was wondering if its the torque converter?

[JBeezy]

I just recently installed a 3500 stall and I love it. I drove it in the rain by accident the other day with no issues. I just drove it normally with the music pumping, and didn't really notice a big difference. I slow down in the rain anyways

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[Turbov6Bryan]

Sometimes when Im driving at certain low rpms under load, I hear this very faint chattering sound... I have no idea what it is. I was wondering if its the torque converter?

Retorque your converter bolts, I use RED loctite on converters, lots of heat and some get loose and make noise right off idle. I've had a few cars do it

The 5 disc PI converter was a downfall cause all of the lock up clutches would make noise only at idle. Worked fine.. just noisy. Kinda like marbles or your front pump going out :)

[sailsmen]

3,500 Stall. Had one for 150K miles w/ an S/C.

As far a streetability it's all in the Tune.

[FordNut]

I had a 3k stall and hated it.

[Lowndex]

I had a 3k stall and hated it.

Please share more:
* what did you hate?
* what stall speed did you change to?
* or the tune changes?

[FordNut]

The engine would always rev up on takeoff. There was no way to gradually and gently take off, as it would start getting into powerband and boost before got moving good.

I went down to a 2200 stall and was much happier. That was when I had the D1SC.

Now I have the twin screw and an 1800 stall.

[justbob]

If I had to settle for an automatic/centri combo I wouldn't have anything less than a 3,000! More likely 3,500..

I couldn't imagine my F1 with an auto. I'm way too used to instant and non stop building of boost right off idle or at any speed. It would take a really high stall or I'd be right back into a roots/twin screw..


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[sailsmen]

The drivability is all in the TUNE!

I have had a 3,000/3,500 Stall on an S/C for 150k+ miles.

My MM has been driven all over the Gulf South including areas ravaged by Ivan/Katrina and by my Wife and my teenage daughters with no issues.

There is no issue with the 3,000/3,500 Stall as respects drivability.

[tbone]

3000 ftw. But IF I was to change it because it broke or something, I would probaby go lower stall, not higher. Streetability better, slower at the track.

[johnnyrauder]

i have a vortech v3 with a 3000 stall no problems. other than leaving hemis in the dust

[martyo]

My MM has been driven all over the Gulf South including areas ravaged by Ivan/Katrina and by my Wife and my teenage daughters with no issues.



Read that again.

Commas are your friend.

Lol.

:D

[lifespeed]

Decisions. I think I'll change the Circle D order to the 2,600 - 2,800 range. It is less likely to irritate me in daily driving, especially as I tow with this car sometimes. Higher stall just doesn't seem like something I'll like. It only matters for the first 20 feet of a drag race launch anyway, once rolling gear selection keeps the RPM where needed.

The Vortech will be pullied up pretty good with 10% overdrive on the balancer and a smallish pulley on the V2 to get to 15 psi. It will probably be in boost at 2,800 RPM, although I haven't done this before so who knows, I could be wrong. Worst case I have to pull the trans and sent it back to take advantage of the do over offered by Circle D. But that is a nightmare given my experiences with the crossmember.

[justbob]

3000 ftw. But IF I was to change it because it broke or something, I would probaby go lower stall, not higher. Streetability better, slower at the track.



Yours is a roots, therefor not really needed. I've driven a Centri equipped 480 RWHP Marauder with a stock converter and the yawn factor waiting for it to impress took FOREVER.

I've driven another with a 3500 stall and around 450 RWHP IIRC and it kicked you in gut as it instantly pulled so hard.

No contest, the lesser hp, less boosted, many many more miles car would eat the other in a heartbeat. Getting to mid/upper 2,000's seems like a lifetime from light to light when your trying to shine.

Personal preference, but completely tunable either way. Think heavy ass car.


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[Mr. Man]

On a side note, can the handheld tuner be adjusted for the converter in the driveway by the owner or does a pro like Marty need to write one for you?

[lifespeed]

Yours is a roots, therefor not really needed. I've driven a Centri equipped 480 RWHP Marauder with a stock converter and the yawn factor waiting for it to impress took FOREVER.

I've driven another with a 3500 stall and around 450 RWHP IIRC and it kicked you in gut as it instantly pulled so hard.

No contest, the lesser hp, less boosted, many many more miles car would eat the other in a heartbeat. Getting to mid/upper 2,000's seems like a lifetime from light to light when your trying to shine.

Interesting experiences. Although sure to give up something off the line, I am counting on the higher (and earlier) boost and torque to make up for a couple hundred RPM lower stall speed. This won't be a 450RWHP engine, should easily do more than 550HP.

[sailsmen]

Read that again.

Commas are your friend.

Lol.

:D

Commas don't clean out a dirty mind.;)

[sailsmen]

Interesting experiences. Although sure to give up something off the line, I am counting on the higher (and earlier) boost and torque to make up for a couple hundred RPM lower stall speed. This won't be a 450RWHP engine, should easily do more than 550HP.

Why not just keep it stock? It will tow better and it will be easier to have good drivability.

With more HP comes more HP.

But seriously, as you stated you can always have the stall changed to your liking and that's all that matters.

[JBeezy]

Decisions. I think I'll change the Circle D order to the 2,600 - 2,800 range. It is less likely to irritate me in daily driving, especially as I tow with this car sometimes. Higher stall just doesn't seem like something I'll like. It only matters for the first 20 feet of a drag race launch anyway, once rolling gear selection keeps the RPM where needed.

The Vortech will be pullied up pretty good with 10% overdrive on the balancer and a smallish pulley on the V2 to get to 15 psi. It will probably be in boost at 2,800 RPM, although I haven't done this before so who knows, I could be wrong. Worst case I have to pull the trans and sent it back to take advantage of the do over offered by Circle D. But that is a nightmare given my experiences with the crossmember.
I know what you mean about the cross member. We had to fight with it to get it out and hammer it back in place

On a side note, can the handheld tuner be adjusted for the converter in the driveway by the owner or does a pro like Marty need to write one for you?
Get a tune from Marty.

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[lifespeed]

Why not just keep it stock? It will tow better and it will be easier to have good drivability.

With more HP comes more HP.

But seriously, as you stated you can always have the stall changed to your liking and that's all that matters.

I recycled the stock converter at a local transmission shop, Silverfox rebuilt the 4R70W. Probably not the greatest idea to leave it stock behind high HP.

Apparently they stuck a 4R70W in it it, not a 4R75W. And it was built with one clutch missing in the reverse drum. It would have self-destructed soon, the only clue was a slight clank from forward to reverse, which I thought was just the ring and pinion playing up again.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_trans/trans_reverse_drum_small.jpg
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_trans/trans_reverse_drum_small.jpg

[lifespeed]

With more HP comes more HP.

Just noticed you have a pretty similar setup to what I'll be installing; 8-rib and 10% overdrive on the balancer, air to air with a V2 supercharger. Are you running stock exhaust manifolds?

A couple differences may be 5.0L, ported heads and aftermarket cams. But I won't be running 19 psi or methanol injection either.

[justbob]

Have s new cross member fabricated while it's off. No more misery.

I'm apparently the only one that had no difficulty removing it, even with 92,000 Chicago miles.

Even if it would have worked for my trans I wouldn't have reused that hideous heavy paper weight..

If I can make my own from scratch in my garage in one evening then the cost to have it made has to be minimal.


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[Lowndex]

Get a tune from BRG Motosports