EATC codes 024 and 025

[crownvic05]

Ran a self test on my eatc and got codes 024 and 025.

Problem im having is that no matter whats selected either floor, defrost or vents, heat comes out thru everywhere. another issue with this is that If I start playing with lowering the temp, a knocking noise behind the dash will start like if something is stock. It will eventually stop but it takes about 3-5 mins. when switching to A/C also does the same thing but I get my cold air. So heat and A/C are both working. Its just that its blowing thru everywhere and the knocking noise when switch the temp.

Any Advice?

[RubberCtyRauder]

those are blend door codes, prolly blend door actuator

[Turbov6Bryan]

Have you replaced the silicone 007 o rings in the eatc?
Those are the remedy for your air everywhere issue

If you get full cold and full heat, I don't see it being the blend door actuator

Usually the actuator teeth strip making a clicking noise

[RubberCtyRauder]

bad o rings are usually where air blows out of defrost or floor only is what I have seen here.

[fastblackmerc]

Sounds like you have two issues.....

1 - air everywhere is usually a vacuum issue, most likely the o-rings inside the EATC.

2 - DTC's 024 & 025 & knocking noise = Blend Door Actuator gone or going bad.

Try running the EATC self diags a few times. That might temporary cause the Blend Door to start working correctly.

Checkout this thread:

http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=99619

[crownvic05]

I will run the test a few times. Right now its all good. The fact that its blowing heat thru everywhere is fine with me. I close all the vent doors and keep the temp on 85 and on the lowest setting. As long as I can get thru this winter then I'll work on this in spring or warmer weather. Lets see how long before I get the knocking again.

[8UWITH6]

Could also be a broken door in the heater box, have seen that a few times at work. Hopefully not in your case cause that is expensive.

[Ambitious1]

I started having an issue about not getting enough heat. I have checked all fluids and the coolant is at the proper level. The EATC seems to be working perfectly. I have to crank up the heat up to 85 F or 90 F and it takes about fifteen minutes for heat to come into the cabin. It will then get plenty hot. There is no clicking or unusual noises in the dashboard. The temps have dropped into the single digits here, it was 9 degrees on Friday and 10 degrees this morning. Anyone else have an issue like this?

[Zack]

I started having an issue about not getting enough heat. I have checked all fluids and the coolant is at the proper level. The EATC seems to be working perfectly. I have to crank up the heat up to 85 F or 90 F and it takes about fifteen minutes for heat to come into the cabin. It will then get plenty hot. There is no clicking or unusual noises in the dashboard. The temps have dropped into the single digits here, it was 9 degrees on Friday and 10 degrees this morning. Anyone else have an issue like this?

I've been having the same issue the past few cold days. I'm pretty sure it's just an air pocket

[Ambitious1]

I've been having the same issue the past few cold days. I'm pretty sure it's just an air pocket

Sorry, I didn't mention: I did complete coolant flush and replaced the thermostat two weeks ago and it seemed to have been working fine until now. Should I flush the system again?

[fastblackmerc]

I started having an issue about not getting enough heat. I have checked all fluids and the coolant is at the proper level. The EATC seems to be working perfectly. I have to crank up the heat up to 85 F or 90 F and it takes about fifteen minutes for heat to come into the cabin. It will then get plenty hot. There is no clicking or unusual noises in the dashboard. The temps have dropped into the single digits here, it was 9 degrees on Friday and 10 degrees this morning. Anyone else have an issue like this?


I've been having the same issue the past few cold days. I'm pretty sure it's just an air pocket

Either air in the cooling system or the blend door may be sticking or slow......

[Zack]

I know mine is an air issue because I get heat as soon as i rev the engine up

[RubberCtyRauder]

Sorry, I didn't mention: I did complete coolant flush and replaced the thermostat two weeks ago and it seemed to have been working fine until now. Should I flush the system again?


I would burp the system again.. you may have air still in it.

[crownvic05]

Could also be a broken door in the heater box, have seen that a few times at work. Hopefully not in your case cause that is expensive.

I thought about this. Hopefully its not my case.

[Ambitious1]

I would burp the system again.. you may have air still in it.

I actually thought it was the BDA, but I will burp the system again first.

[fastblackmerc]

I actually thought it was the BDA, but I will burp the system again first.

Proper Ford 4.6 DOHC burp procedure

http://www.reischeperformance.com/refill.html

[RF Overlord]

2 - DTC's 024 & 025 & knocking noise = Blend Door Actuator gone or going bad.Agreed. Knocking noises behind the dash are almost always a bad BDA. (or broken/dislodged door)

As for the air flow issue, are you sure it's coming from panel vents, defrost, AND the floor all at once?

[crownvic05]

I am sure that its coming from vents, defrost and floor.

[RF Overlord]

Interesting...

The floor and defrost are controlled by one actuator, and the panel vents by another. The default position for the defrost/floor actuator is to defrost, so if there was a total loss of vacuum, you should have defrost but no floor.

Try this: remove the EATC head unit and unplug the vacuum connector. See if you can somehow jump from one vacuum line to another and put the black line (vacuum source) to the red, yellow, and blue lines individually and see if the airflow diverts properly. Red is floor, yellow defrost, and blue is the panel vents. The white line is for the fresh/recirc door and we're not concerned with that now...

[Gerry24]

On my old 08 MGM LS had the same problem on the blend door, so I did the o-ring on the EATC & disconnected the battery for 10 mins. When connected back it appeared to reset the blendoor and didn't hear it after that. Down here in Florida You don't use the Heat or both floor and dash. Try it... It won't hurt.

[Ambitious1]

Proper Ford 4.6 DOHC burp procedure

http://www.reischeperformance.com/refill.html

So I still am having some trouble getting enough heat in the cabin for the first 30 minutes of driving. I have replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolant, burped the sytem about three times and now have taken apart the dashboard to look at the Air Blend Door Actuator. The BDA seems to be working fine and there doesn't seem to be any air pockets in the coolant system at this point.

I am now thinking the heater core may be plugged. Does anyone know where I can find a coolant diagram for the MM?

[fastblackmerc]

So I still am having some trouble getting enough heat in the cabin for the first 30 minutes of driving. I have replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolant, burped the sytem about three times and now have taken apart the dashboard to look at the Air Blend Door Actuator. The BDA seems to be working fine and there doesn't seem to be any air pockets in the coolant system at this point.

I am now thinking the heater core may be plugged. Does anyone know where I can find a coolant diagram for the MM?
After running the car up to operating temperature with the heat on, feel both of the heater hoses, are they both warm / hot?

Was the thermostat installed correctly?

When you remove the crossover tube plug can you see coolant?

[Ambitious1]

After running the car up to operating temperature with the heat on, feel both of the heater hoses, are they both warm / hot?

Was the thermostat installed correctly?

When you remove the crossover tube plug can you see coolant?

So I inspected the heater core and after looking at all of the hoses involving the coolant system, I discovered the previous owner had done a cooling mod for #4 and #8 through the back of the block. (I have only had this MM for a few months, so I haven't figured out all of the mods done by the previous owner yet). It seems that the cooling mod seems to be hindering how much coolant is going to the heater core, resulting in less heat. It looks like I may have to re-do the cooling mod to have the heat back up to factory levels.

Thank you for all of the advice, I thought I was never going to figure this out.

[fastblackmerc]

So I inspected the heater core and after looking at all of the hoses involving the coolant system, I discovered the previous owner had done a cooling mod for #4 and #8 through the back of the block. (I have only had this MM for a few months, so I haven't figured out all of the mods done by the previous owner yet). It seems that the cooling mod seems to be hindering how much coolant is going to the heater core, resulting in less heat. It looks like I may have to re-do the cooling mod to have the heat back up to factory levels.

Thank you for all of the advice, I thought I was never going to figure this out.

It maybe installed wrong. I've had the original DR cooling mod installed for 13 years and have had sufficient heat all the time.