New Engine Install issue

[HorneDogg]

Hi All,

I just recently installed a new engine in my marauder. I have ran into an issue and wanted to see if anyone else has experienced a similar issue and what they did to correct it.

the issue is that the car seems to be running in some kind of limp mode. the Drivers side is running super lean and the passenger side is running super rich. The car is supercharged and was tuned by Reinhardt. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jamie:beer:

[Zack]

Is the O2 sensor plugged in?

[HorneDogg]

yeah the O2 sensor is plugged in and I actually bought a new one because one was bad.

[Curless]

Do you have a scan tool to be able to watch the 02's? SES light on?

[HorneDogg]

its actually at the performance shop to be dyno'd and they are having the issue. they are not familiar with Marauders and haven't had this issue before.

I would think that they have the scan tool onsite in their garage

[Mackdombles]

Not familiar with Marauders? Its essentially a mustang powertrain. A performance shop with a dyno that cant read codes or diag running issues sounds sketch to me.

Was it a new engine and has it run ok since the install at all?

[RubberCtyRauder]

where did you get the motor? is it new, reman, used

Reinshart...say no more

[Curless]

its actually at the performance shop to be dyno'd and they are having the issue. they are not familiar with Marauders and haven't had this issue before.

I would think that they have the scan tool onsite in their garage


Umm, if they are not familiar with Marauders aka Mustangs get it out of there. It's boosted, if they screw up your engine goes boom. Has nothing to do with what type of car it is, a lean condition can be diagnosed by any competent technician. They should already know exactly what to look for.

[Mackdombles]

Umm, if they are not familiar with Marauders aka Mustangs get it out of there. It's boosted, if they screw up your engine goes boom. Has nothing to do with what type of car it is, a lean condition can be diagnosed by any competent technician. They should already know exactly what to look for.

Im with him.

[HorneDogg]

its a MMR 1000SE short block, yes I understand that they should be able to find out what is going on.

the tune was originally a Reinshart tune as you say. I only have 30k on the body and the original engine went to crap. these guys know whats up with engines, I am just not sure of their troubleshooting skills, and I wasn't sure if it could be in the wiring somewhere.

[Joe Walsh]

its a MMR 1000SE short block, yes I understand that they should be able to find out what is going on.

The tune was originally a Reinshart tune as you say. I only have 30k .... and the original engine went to crap.

Nothing surprising there!

Sorry for the thread Hi-jack....hope that they figure out WTF is going on.

[RubberCtyRauder]

since the stuff is new, them being a mustang tuner, as mentioned, they need to look harder at "their" install work. better find out what they warranty.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Ask for a simple compression check on all 8 cylinders

My guess is they don't have that "unfamiliar" marauder motor timed correctly and a compression test will prove the valves are smashed because they didn't get the timing chains on correctly

[HorneDogg]

yeah the engine is under warranty and they are taking all the precautions, engine assembly is not the issue here, it is literally doing the exact same thing it was before the new engine. it has to be something electronic somewhere and I was just hoping that someone might have had some type of similar issue. I cant be the only person that has had this issue.

[RubberCtyRauder]

mmr wont warranty it if the mustang shop trashes it. better find out what mustang shop will warranty. did you swap heads? who's heads are on it.

[HorneDogg]

it not the timing, I timed the car the first time when I did the heads, and if I can do it once on a weekend someone that builds these engines for a living should be able to line up the shaded link to the mark. I think your comment was better left unsaid. valves are S.S. different comp ratio also. the issue started out with the original motor with the factory timing. I pulled heads and had heads redone due to the infamous rear cylinder valve seat issue. re-assembled, same issue was occurring, pulled engine and replaced with MMR short block and re-installed, same issue.

Guys, I am really just looking for some useful information if you have had a similar issue.

[RubberCtyRauder]

sounds like a head issue, you mention changing ratios, ratios of what ,? are the cams degreed? if it is the same before motor swap, prolly still an internal head issue.

[Curless]

yeah the engine is under warranty and they are taking all the precautions, engine assembly is not the issue here, it is literally doing the exact same thing it was before the new engine. it has to be something electronic somewhere and I was just hoping that someone might have had some type of similar issue. I cant be the only person that has had this issue.


Check compression, if its good, move to your theory of electronics... if it's not... well then you know your issue. You asked for help, you were told to check compression, then you stated it was not a mechanical issue... did you check compression or not? If the car was doing this and the engine went south, why wasn't it diagnosed? What exactly happened to it. What are the 02's doing while running? What is the injector ms at? Does it idle smoothly? Does it hunt for idle? What does it have for vacuum at idle? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Plug off all of the vacuum lines coming from the intake... have you checked them all for cracks or rot? We need more info sir...

[Mackdombles]

I think your comment was better left unsaid.

Guys, I am really just looking for some useful information if you have had a similar issue.


I hope its not my comment that you are referring to. Sorry if it offended you.



As far as useful info, a little more info is needed to diag an issue like this. If it is doing the "exact" same thing as the oem engine was doing, then i suspect a common denominator. Electrical, fuel, ect. Obviously if the old engine did it, and a new engine does it, its not the engine.

I understand you are looking for someone with the same issue to chime in with the simple answer but unfortunately i dont think its going to happen in this case. How did you determine one side lean and one side rich?

[justbob]

You mean SS like these? [emoji6]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/5504d3a2e29ec9c29647f9ae8434b8 01.jpg

Yeah they bend just as easy.


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[vkirkend]

I would find a Mustang tuner and get my car to them to see what is the problem.

[Curless]

You mean SS like these? [emoji6]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170126/5504d3a2e29ec9c29647f9ae8434b8 01.jpg

Yeah they bend just as easy.


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:eek::eek::eek: let me guess, missed a 2nd to third gear shift???

[Hadamustang1]

wow JUST GOOGLED THE MUSTANG SHOP IN KENT.. Not the best reviews there,, yikes!

Hope it all works out for you,, I know you have had issues with that car from way back in 2012,, :alone:

[RubberCtyRauder]

this is where it is at

http://www.tmsperformance.com/

[HorneDogg]

the shop is under new ownership. the previous owner is the cause of all the bad reviews. the guys there now are great. they are undoing all the wrong that has been done. I will see what I can do about getting more information on the issue. I will post more later

[Turbov6Bryan]

I would do the compression test first as I mentioned

If that checks out, pull your injectors and have them cleaned and flowed, if it was my car I'd lift the fuel rail up and out with the injectors attached and crank the car over and check SPRAY pattern comparison from bank to bank

If those all check out,.... go over your fuel injection harness real well depending on what you find


Funny is you mentioned one side is rich. Does that mean all 4 cylinders are being washed with fuel and they checked the plugs and they are super fouled out,..., or are they just going off O2 millivolts?

We don't have enough info :)

Compression then injectors is my opinion

[HorneDogg]

Thanks for the ideas, I will pass them along. yes they pulled plugs and one side is running rich and the other lean. I believe they see this on the scan tool also.

[Drewstang]

Where's Denis screwing people these days?

[justbob]

:eek::eek::eek: let me guess, missed a 2nd to third gear shift???



Never ever 2nd to 3rd! [emoji4]

Let's just say I forgot the cam gear spacers. Oops.. I got a whole day out of it before I bent the valves and forced for home two miles shooting raw fuel 10' out of the drivers tail pipe thanks to the intake cam gear shearing in three and taking the tensioner for a trip to the oil pan. [emoji6]


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[Chayton]

Never ever 2nd to 3rd! [emoji4]

Let's just say I forgot the cam gear spacers. Oops.. I got a whole day out of it before I bent the valves and forced for home two miles shooting raw fuel 10' out of the drivers tail pipe thanks to the intake cam gear shearing in three and taking the tensioner for a trip to the oil pan. [emoji6]


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holy foooooooooook

[HorneDogg]

Sorry I have been a little busy with work. but I wanted to let everyone know that the problem was solved. the issue was identified to be a clogged cat on the drivers side. Replaced with a custom offroad x-pipe. everything was checked out. I want to say that the mustang shop did a great job and that I started this forum on my own just so that I could get some insight and possibilities of what it could be. the car dyno'd out at 400rwhp @ 6.5psi of boost. I go and pick it up on Friday this week.

[RubberCtyRauder]

put a smaller pulley on it, turn that boost up. you put forged stuff in that mmr block right? good to hear its fixed.

[Curless]

Sorry I have been a little busy with work. but I wanted to let everyone know that the problem was solved. the issue was identified to be a clogged cat on the drivers side. Replaced with a custom offroad x-pipe. everything was checked out. I want to say that the mustang shop did a great job and that I started this forum on my own just so that I could get some insight and possibilities of what it could be. the car dyno'd out at 400rwhp @ 6.5psi of boost. I go and pick it up on Friday this week.


400 HP at 6.5 PSI??? Umm what else is done sir? 6.5 PSI @ 20 HP per # would be a 130 hp gain... these cars make 305 ish at the crank stock so that would put you at 435 at the crank.... something does not add up sir...

[Zack]

400 HP at 6.5 PSI??? Umm what else is done sir? 6.5 PSI @ 20 HP per # would be a 130 hp gain... these cars make 305 ish at the crank stock so that would put you at 435 at the crank.... something does not add up sir...

It's a vortech. They make more power than eatons. You can also add a bunch of timing on a dyno to inflate the actual numbers.

[HorneDogg]

400 HP at 6.5 PSI??? Umm what else is done sir? 6.5 PSI @ 20 HP per # would be a 130 hp gain... these cars make 305 ish at the crank stock so that would put you at 435 at the crank.... something does not add up sir...


makes 400hp at the rear wheels. crank horse would be well over 435hp.

[HorneDogg]

put a smaller pulley on it, turn that boost up. you put forged stuff in that mmr block right? good to hear its fixed.

I am for sure going to go up on boost. just gonna give my bank account time to recover from this stint. also gonna break the motor in a little and put some miles on it. next year I am gonna do 60lbs injectors and smaller pulley, probably go up to 15psi of boost.

[HorneDogg]

Below is the complete list of everything I have had done to the engine and car:


Vortec V2 S/C 6.5psi
Icevex intercooler
BA5000 MAP Sensor
Big Red Race Valve
MMR 1000SE 4.75L All Forged Stroker Short Block @ 9.5/1 comp ratio
ARP Main and Rod Bolts
MMR S.S Valves .060 over on Intake
MMR S.S Valves .020 over on Exhaust
Manley Full Race valve springs
MMR Bronze Valve Guides
MMR Ultra Heavy Duty Full Race Valve seals
MMR Billet Aluminum Cam Spacers
ARP Head Studs
Grantelli Lightning COPs
NGK Iridium Plugs
MMR Plenum Spacer
Trans-Dapt Throttle Body Spacer
39lbs injectors
180* thermostat
Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump
Rear head cooling X-over piping Mod
4.10 gears LSD
TMS Custom made Offroad X-pipe (Front/ Rear Cat Delete)
SCT XCal4 Tuner
TMS Performance & Dyno Custom Tune

[RubberCtyRauder]

400 wheel hp is about 460 crank hp.

[Zack]

I am for sure going to go up on boost. just gonna give my bank account time to recover from this stint. also gonna break the motor in a little and put some miles on it. next year I am gonna do 60lbs injectors and smaller pulley, probably go up to 15psi of boost.

Engine break-in is a MYTH

[Turbov6Bryan]

Turn it up. Seat the rings. Done :)

[Curless]

It's a vortech. They make more power than eatons. You can also add a bunch of timing on a dyno to inflate the actual numbers.

I know you can get more out of them but boost is boost and the gains don't match the numbers in my mind. I'm inclined to agree more with the numbers on the dyno being fudged... I mean we would be saying that centrifugal boost is more potent than roots boost by double...

[Curless]

Engine break-in is a MYTH

Ring seating is the only thing that needs to be done, after that... let r eat

[Spectragod]

Engine break-in is a MYTH

Lidio broke mine in on the Dyno......:burnout:

[HorneDogg]

I mostly what to just give my bank account time to recover, I plan on enjoying the car with the HP that I have at the boost I am running. I am planning on increases the boost in the near future. I am not opposed to increasing boost, I am actually right there with everybody about turning up the boost, but right now I am not financially able to give it more boost. I have to save up some more money. bottom line is money.

[justbob]

Push her into the 20's [emoji1303]


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[RubberCtyRauder]

i understand about $ recouping. I can't do everything i want at once either.

[justbob]

i understand about $ recouping. I can't do everything i want at once either.



I'm about done recouping and ready to give up all together..


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[RubberCtyRauder]

I'm about done recouping and ready to give up all together..


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You've had your longer than I have had mine so another round of uprades and then I'll just drive it as finished and save for the next car or whatever.

[Lowndex]

Engine break-in is a MYTH

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

[tobiasg1995]

I've had multiple sportbikes, and I beat the crap out of them as soon as they came off the floor. Never had an issue. They actually ran better. Two different trucks I had done in the past. I ran them hard from the start. Never had an issue. Everyone believes what they want. I side with Zack.

There is no off position on my genius switch.

[Curless]

I professionally raced motocross for several years, built my own engines... of all of the engines I built, the one that had to be done in one week and "broken in" at the track during practice is the one that ran the best... it got one warm up in the pits, one real easy lap of rolling all of the jumps and light acceleration down the straights... THEN LET R EAT...

[MOTOWN]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

This is the most senseless ignorant statement I've seen in a while , but coming from you its the norm!:shake:

[Marauderjack]

They built my new motor and started it......checked for leaks and wound it up on the dyno which seems to me to be running it hard??:confused:

All NASCAR motors are run WOT almost immediately!!:eek:

What needs "breaking in" if I may ask??:cool: