Trilogy intercooled supercharger . . . here I come!

[studio460]

Well . . . I've finally decided, NOW is the time . . .

I talked with Jerry Barnes of Trilogy today on the phone and got a few final questions answered. Trilogy's CARB certification process is continuing, and that's good news--it's just taking a little longer than they had expected. I'm still gonna install my Precision Industries torque converter and headers as well (just haven't decided which ones). Anyway, the good news is that I talked to an installer in Southern California also today, referred to me by Jerry, and they sound like the right place to do the work.

[BillyGman]

Alright Shooter!! Now you're talkin........it says in your signature that you're no 42? You mean that Trilogy is already up to serial #42???:eek: I can't believe that. I just bought serial #24 about 8 weeks ago. That was quick. I guess Jerry sure wasn't kidding when he said that these Trilogy S/Cer kits are flying off the shelf.

Shooter, did you order your Stallion Torque converter yet? if not, then you should have precision Industries set the stall speed at 2400 RPM's (which BTW, is the lowest they can set it to) since you really don't need a higher stall speed than that w/a roots type S/Cer. But if you already have the converter installed then I'd just leave it, cuz it's really no biggie. 3,000 RPM stall is okay, it's just not optimal for taking advantage of all the extra low-end torque that the Trilogy kit will give your engine.

But either way, you're gonna luv what that Eaton S/Cer included w/the Trilogy kit does for increasing acceleration right off idle, and all the way up through the RPM scale. You're gonna have a blast. Make sure that you go out to the Ford dealer's parts department, or an auto parts store who sells Motorcraft parts and get the new set of Motorcraft sparkplugs that Trilogy recommends in the beginning pages of the intruction manual where it lists supplies needed. That's important that the # plugs that it recommends are installed. Supply the place that will be installing the Trilogy kit on your car w/the new plugs, and specify to them that you want your old sparkplugs returned to you in the box, so you'll be certain that they will have the right ones in there. Now would aslo be a good time to replace your air filter element w/a new one, so you should also pick atleast one of those up too at the place where you'll get the new plugs at.

Let us know as soon as you get your transformed MM going!!! I can't wait to hear your reaction to your car's new power. You're gonna flip!!!

[studio460]

Alright Shooter!! Now you're talkin . . . it says in your signature that you're no. 42? You mean that Trilogy is already up to serial #42?
BillyG:

HA! I dunno . . . I asked Jerry how many Trilogy kits he's sold and he said something like "40." I know there's at least one guy ahead of me in the ordering queue, so I just guessed, maybe I'm "42?" I could be WAY off! Really, I just wanted to give it a number so it'd feel more REAL, because I won't actually order the kit for a couple weeks!

Anyway, THANK YOU for the kudos, and the VALUABLE advice! I already have installed Denso Iridium IT-22s on Dennis Reinhart's recommendation--these are "two steps colder" plugs that he recommended for supercharging applications. Also, I've had detonation issues ever since my SCT dynotune and I just thought that might be better anyway. And Dennis INSISTED that they would be "okay" even while I continued to run N/A. How many "steps colder" are the Trilogy-recommended plugs?

No, I haven't yet installed the P.I. torque converter yet. Can the shop that's doing the Trilogy install adjust the stall to 2,400 or is that something only Precision can do? And about the air filter . . . I JUST changed my oil and also threw in a K&N-style Fram "AirHog" oiled filter, just for fun. That should be cool, right?

Thanks again, BillyG, for all the advice and encouragement . . . I JUST CAN'T WAIT FOR THAT FIRST WOT RUN!!!!!

[BillyGman]

Okay, the filter you have should be fine. I just wanted to point out that now is a good time to be starting out w/a new one. So it sounds like you're all set w/that.

As for the Stalllion Torque converer, it can be sent back to Precision Industries up to 2 times within the next two years for a stall speed change for free, and it needs to be taken apart for the stall speed change anyway, so they should be the ones to do that. So I suggest you call them, and make arrangements to send it back to them now since they will have it for about 4 working days, and when you include the shipping time to them, and back to you, then you're looking at a total down time of 7-10 days.

And as for the plugs, forget about those plugs you already have in there. I had the same ones, and took them right out. dennis would be the one to listen to if it was his chip that you'll be using, but it isn't. The Trilogy kit comes w/a chip that Jerry has burned by Lidio specifically for that application of their S/cer, and for it to be used w/the sparkplugs that THEY tell you to run, so if i were you, i wouldn't mess around w/any other plug but what they tell you to run. Jerry is the designer, w/engineers behind him, and Lidio is the engine tuner, all of whom have set this package up for us, so you would do well to listen to what the instruction manual says to do even w/regard to what sparkplugs to use. And another thing is that the plugs will have to be gapped much tighter than w/a stock Marauder engine, or any one that is N/A. The Ford gap spec is .052" to .056" but your new gap spec w/the recommended plugs is a mere .032". Remember, blower engines are different in what they need in the way of spark, and ignition timing, so if I were you, I wouldn't overlook what I'm telling you here IF you're gonna S/C your Marauder. The plugs that Trilogy calls out for will only cost you $18 at the very most for the whole set of eight.

[studio460]

Thanks again, Billy! I WILL follow your recommendations! By the way, I'm not gonna go for the 4.10s or 4.30s anymore since my lower-profile tires now give me an effective 3.76 rear-end ratio. Adding 4.10s would shorten my ratio even further to the equivalent of 4.30s, and I kind of like where my RPMs are at now (I want that 2nd-gear downshift to be just right on the freeway). Are you planning on swapping your 4.56s back to something taller again?

[BillyGman]

I agree w/you that you don't need to change the gears w/the Trilogy kit in your car. Infact even if people stay w/the 3.55's who also have a roots type S/Cer, then they will be fine. But I don't think I'm going to be changing the gears again. I did it twice, and it's really a lot of work. If something goes in the rear end some day, and I need to take it apart anyway, then I'll likely put either the 3.55's back in, or the 4.10's. I might also go w/a Locker rear end, but that's all a big "IF".

I'm hoping that the Nitto tires that you've chosen will grab the asphalt good enough for your taste once you get the Trilogy kit installed. Maybe not, since those type that you have are NOT drag radials. So they might not give you the traction you'll want w/all the extra power your car wil have. But only time will tell, and it's nothing for you to worry about now anyway. I mean, if you do end up having that problem w/the tires not hooking up, it's a good problem to have in the sense that it's all due to serious TORQUE!!!

[Logan]

Billy, 2400 is too low dude on a stallion. At that point, you might as well leave the stock convertor in there. 2700 is the ticket for getting the advantages of the stallion unit, without going over the top.

As for the tires. The 555's have a 300 tread rating. Quite a bit softer than the stock BFG, which is a 400. They'll hook up better but.......... With gears and a stall, there's no way you'll be able to go WOT off the line with 255's, they'll just go up in smoke... You'll have to throttle into it. To go WOT off the line, you'll need the 295 555's or the 555R drag radial. Be warned though, the 555R is useless in the rain.

[MikesMerc]

Congrats on the Trilogy choice NBC :banana: You won't be disappointed!

Great advice by Billy :up:

Definitely run the recommended plugs hands down!

Make sure to flash your PCM back to stock program before you install the kit if your gonna use the chip in the Trilogy kit. If you want to, I'm sure Lidio can get the proper Trilogy tune file for your SCT Tuner. The chip comes with the kit, but if you want to keep a few other files on your SCT Tuner instead and go that route, it'll work great too. Just make sure there is no way to accidentally get the high performance NA tune loaded to the PCM!! If you think you have detonation problems now :eek: I shudder to think.

If you haven't bought the Stallion yet...don't. If you already bought the PI, have it set to the lowest stall speed possible. Actually, the current trend now is for 2003 MMs to upgrade to the 2004 stall unit (a distinct ford part number). Its much looser and all you will need....if you feel you need anything at all. It's also pretty inexpensive. There are a quite a few folks going this route with great success. Higher stalls than that begin to degrade the smoothness of the OEM launch under light loads and you just don't need "the help" on the launch with the Trilogy installed.

Same goes for the gear. They just aren't needed for a Trilogy car. Just about everyone who took our Trilogy blown cars for a ride at the last MCM event preferred the 3.55 gears for a sreet car.

Don't get me wrong, a high stall and shorter gear will net you faster numbers as long as you have superior traction. However, both mods contribute to a loss of OEM "smoothness" as the trade off. So its all just personal choice. In the end, I might even go for a gear change as I like to get to the track a lot. But I'd never consider it for street duty. And a bigger stall over my 2004 unit will never make the install list.

Of course, all of this is my opinion (as are all of our comments here). But, I have also mixed in the opinions of others who have been behind the wheel of a Trilogy car. This is why my actions sometimes deviate from my advice:)

[JamesHecker]

Great news Shooter!

I'm curious as to who will be doing the install. Please PM me if you don't want to post it here. I'll be looking forward to seeing the install as I am certain you will be the first "local" with a SC!

[studio460]

James:

Hey man, how ya doing? I've been thinking of calling you (but I think I lost your number) and asking you about your salesman at the Valencia LM dealer since I was thinking about MAYBE trading my '03 in for an '04 before I do the supercharger. I've 20K miles on mine now, and they seem to be selling Marauders so cheap these days that it might actually be worth it. Give me a call sometime soon: 818.535.4743.

Jerry was referred by Galpin Ford (and several others) that the place to go for superchargers was this place in Canoga Park, Extreme Automotive. Jerry was impressed with the fact that nearly everyone he asked mentioned Extreme as the place to go. This was the final stumbling block--where to get my Trilogy kit installed and done RIGHT. I spoke to Sean at Extreme and he seemed great on the phone and was HIGHLY complimentary about Trilogy's documentation. Extreme is supposed to do their first Marauder install of a Trilogy kit next week, but I think the customer delayed his install another week for some reason. Anyhow, sounds like this might be THE place for us Los Angeles-area Marauder owners:

Extreme Automotive
7901 Canoga Avenue Unit E
Canoga Park, CA 91304
Sean Roberts 818.883.8184

[studio460]

. . . you'll need the 295 555's or the 555R drag radial. Be warned though, the 555R is useless in the rain.
Yup, Logan, that's EXACTLY what I plan on changing the rears to . . . I'll eventually change the rears from the 255s to the Nitto NT-555 295/45 18s. I still absolutely need the safety for wet road traction even though it hardly rains here. IMHO, it's not safe to put the drag radials on a daily driver. But then I'll have to deal with the hassle of not having wheels until I can get the rims widened and turned around.

[BillyGman]

Billy, 2400 is too low dude on a stallion. At that point, you might as well leave the stock convertor in there. 2700 is the ticket for getting the advantages of the stallion unit, without going over the top.This is what I think:

I agree w/Logan about what he said about the tires, and you needing more rubber to hook-up all that power you're going to have, but as far as the Stallion Torque converter, I have to point out that a higher stall speed is NOT the only reason for switching to the Stallion converter. The Stallion converter gives you better Torque multiplication than almost any other converter on the market. Here's their website.... www.converter.com (http://www.converter.com/) and I suggest that anyone who is interested in this particular topic go to that site, and click on the Stallion Logo at the top of the page to read about what Precision Industries says about their product. I've been many websites of companies who manufacture Torque converters, and Precision Industries is the only one that I've ever seen who even makes mention of a "TORQUE MULTIPLICATION RATIO" with the ratio of the Stallion being 2.52:1 as opposed to most other converters merely having a ratio of 1.9:1 No other company that I've seen even mentions what the ratio of their product is. Some of them talk about having better "Torque Multiplication" but none of them make mention of "Multiplication RATIO" let alone listing what that ratio is, like precision Industries does.

Now this is the claim of Precision Industries, but I can tell you that the reason that I believe their claims, is because of the fact that they also claim on their site that you'll get a minumum ET reduction of .50 sec w/their Stallion converter, and I obtained a .70 sec ET reduction from it. So for me their product not only lived up to their claims, but has exceeded them.

Furthermore, I've talked to several serious racers who all immediately recognized the Precision Industries name when I made mention of it, and who also had nothing but good to say about their converters. They said that they're the best, and these guys don't have Marauders either.

Let me conclude that there are two things to keep in mind here. With the Trilogy kit installed in your car, you won't need anything else other than the set of sparkplugs they recommend which BTW are NOT any real expensive plugs either. You won't need the Stallion Torque converter. But if you're bent on getting the best ET's possible, then sure, having the Stallion converter is justified. Lidio has said that the ideal stall speed for a Trilogy equipped car is 2400 RPM. So you can decide for yourself what is best. I'm not trying to pull Logan into a big debate here, as I'm sure that he wasn't trying to pull me into one either. However, I've talked to precision Industries about this, and they confirmed what I've already thought about stall speed.........and that is that the more Torque you put into any given Torque converter (including theirs) then the higher it's going to bring the stall speed.

So as far as stall speed goes, it's an estimated thing on the part of the converter manufacture, since there are a lot of factors. So when they tell you that the converter is et for 2400 RPM's and that's the lowest that the Stallion converter can be set at, then when you put an additional 100+ HP and TQ into it by adding the Trilogy S/Cer kit to your car, it will raise the stall speed approxamately 300 RPM's and that is according to what precision Industries told me over the telephone. So atleast in theory, that would bring your actual stall speed up to about 2700 RPM's. Remember that the Stallion converter for the Marauder has been originaly designed (and perhaps even tested with) the factory stock Marauder configuration. That isn't to say that it won't handle extra power. Sure it will. But you have to keep this in mind when it comes to their stall speed rating. Because setting the stall speed is a matter of estimation. There are many things that factor into that, and a number of things can alter the stall speed up or down in the RPM scale. Most of the Marauders on the street and therefore most of Precision Industries' Marauder customer's cars are NOT Supercharged. they're N/A Marauders, and that's what they're stall speed estimation is based on (N/A Marauders). When you S/C your Marauder, that stall speed will be higher w/out even touching the Torque converter simply because ofn the extra Torque your engine will be transfering into the converter.

I had my Stallion converter set at 3000 RPM's, and now that I've installed the Trilogy S/Cer in my car, I'm sure that it has brought the stall speed up atleast about 300 RPM's higher based on what Precision Industries has told me. The car is fine w/this so far. It isn't really an isuue so far. However, I haven't brought the car to the track yet since the S/Cer installation either. So we will see.

[Logan]

Holy crap, type a book why don't you. ;)

Doesn't change anything, having bracket raced extensively and had a plethora of experience with convertors, I'm aware of everything you go out of your way to bring up and I'm telling you 2400 is too low. I've had both a Naturally aspirated car with and without the convertor and a Trilogy car with and without the stallion and I'm telling you the ideal stall should be around 2700.

Take it for whatever my opinion is worth to you, I'm not debating you, I'm just telling you the world according to Logan.

[BillyGman]

It's all cool Logan. I understand. I just didn't want to be misunderstood guy. And I just wanted to share w/you and w/everyone what I learned from the manufacturing company of Torque converters. Let everyone decide for themselves. We have both equipped them with just about all sides of this story. You've given me advice before I went with the Trilogy kit, and I appreciated that, and I still do.

I simply go out of my way to help people out w/their decisions about modding their Marauders because that's what you and others have done for me in the past. So that way they wil be armed w/all sides of the coin. Peace Dude. Thankyou for your unput. We don't alwwys have to agree to be cool w/eachother anyway. There's still mutual respect, and that's what counts the most here.

[MARAUDER S/C #5]

Well . . . I've finally decided, NOW is the time . . .

I talked with Jerry Barnes of Trilogy today on the phone and got a few final questions answered. Trilogy's CARB certification process is continuing, and that's good news--it's just taking a little longer than they had expected. I'm still gonna install my Precision Industries torque converter and headers as well (just haven't decided which ones). Anyway, the good news is that I talked to an installer in Southern California also today, referred to me by Jerry, and they sound like the right place to do the work.
Welcome to the world of torque NBC!

[BillyGman]

Yeah shooter. U won't be dissapointed. That's for certain. The one down side: having to put money aside for new tires sooner than originally antcipated. Not a bad problem to have at all IMO.

[Lidio]

Hey guys


What has to be remembered with torque converters is that theirs stall speed can expedientialy get higher as you produce more and more low end torque, whether you add cubic inch, NOS or a roots type blower. As some of you have mentioned and repeated. I do feel that the stock converter is extremely matched with the entire power and torque range of a MM once its equipped with a Trilogy, especially the ’04 MM torque converter. This is not to say that the stock stall speed is optimal, certainly there’s room for improvement. But its not eminent that the converter be replaced with a looser one when equipped with a Trilogy blower.

Centrifugals and N/A applications defiantly require them if you really want the car to leap from a dead stop. The trilogy blower adds so much low end torque right off idle on a MM that even with the stock torque converter and 3.55 gears… you have to lift off the pedal if you want it to stop spinning the stock tires in first gear!! Even from a low role if its still in 1st gear, it will blaze them again. This is especially true with the ’04 MM’s and their looser stock converter.

On my own MM and now several I’ve tuned with Trilogy’s that are staring to push over 13 psi of boost…. We’re seeing that the ’04 torque converter is just about right with a Trilogy when its pulley’d to produce about 14psi of boost. Remember when a Trilogy MM is set up to make 14psi of total boost, right off idle and when the torque converter really grabs at about 2500 rpms (I know that’s not the stock stall speed) they’re already at a stunning 9 to 11psi and then at about 3000rpm, they work their way up to the peak boost of 14psi and carry that usually to red line. I’m a huge fan of the “Stallions” from Precision Industries. I sell lots of their converters in many other applications. But have found that on the MM’s with Trilogy’s its not in any way a requirement to change the converter. In fact 4.10’s or a looser converter alone or together should not in any way be considered on a Trilogy MM unless a substantial traction issue is addressed.

On my own MM now that its solidly a mid to high 11 second ¼ mile car… When I Nitrous it from a dead dig on the street and even occasionally at the track, it will spin the big Nitto 305 drag radial pretty bad. This is with stock stall speed still.

In about a week I’m going to replace the trans in my MM because its starting to not hit hard enough during the 1st to 2nd shift now that its starting to make over 470RWHP. It’s the original trans with only a Baumann shift kit that I’ve computer tuned extensively to feel only slightly firmer shifts then stock around town but yet hit pretty hard at WOT.
But its not hard enough now for the 1-2 shift. So I’m replacing the trans with another 4R70W we’ve built up with upgraded second gear clutches. I really didn’t want to change the trans in the car yet because its still in great shape and shifts great still all the time except for the 1-2 shift at WOT with the 13.5 psi and the NOS. While I’m installing the upgraded trans I’ve ordered and already acquired the ’04 MM converter. It only cost about $275.00. I feel that on my MM with the 13.5psi pretty much instant boost and the Nitrous coming in instantly off idle too, that the slightly looser 04 converter is going to be just right for my application. I’m sure that an even looser converter but not to loose would be better too, but in a 4400lbs car that starts to take away from its drivability when they get to loose.

Also on my MM and many others as well… the 4.10s are not optimal either. My car goes through the traps in the ¼ mile at about 5700rpms with the 4.10's. But it shifts and it makes power till almost 7000rpms. This would justify a much bigger rear gear like a 4.56 to achieve trap rpms just over or equal to the shift points. But once again 4.56’s like a overly loose converter starts to mess with the cars day to day abilities.


Thanks

[BillyGman]

ditto.......and yes, I know from experience that despite how much others have argued and fought w/me tooth and nail, that the 4.56 gear ratio is optimal for the best ET's w/the Marauder. But like I've said in the past, just as you're saying here Lidio, unless you're gonna make a Marauder into an all out drag car, you don't need 4.56's, nor any other gearing than the stock 3.55's IF you're going to install the Trilogy S/Cer.

[David Morton]

Lidio, You Da Man! I like your views and at 46 having been an ASE Master Tech for GM (stands for, Going to Mexico) for ten years and built my first tranny (a Super Turbine 300) at 18 and engine (a 428 Super Cobra Jet) at 19 and worked with guy that had a wheel-standing Dodge Van he used to put on a show at the drags with that had a 440 dual quad tunnel ram and ran a stock torque convertor from a Plymouth station wagon, I can tell the voice of experience.


What do you think I should do first? I got a brand new 2004 w/<700 miles. Having worked on Caterpillars (Chev/GMC trucks had those for one year, I think 91) I know the value of an intercooler. We can get forgiveness for some lack of octane (93) with it. Does the stock 2004 Cobra blower set-up have it? I'd like to stick with Ford parts if I can as the quality is really very good nowadays and future supplies of replacement parts, upgrades, etc. is much more reliable than the aftermarket type stuff.

[BillyGman]

Hey Dave, take a look at my reply to your post in that new "Camaro SS" thread you've started. I think you'll be very interested.....;)

[studio460]

WOW! THANKS for all the input Logan, Lidio, BillyG!!!

I REALLY appreciate all the expert advice on the torque converter, etc. Especially from such respected members as yourselves! But . . . I ALREADY BOUGHT the P.I. torque converter, so trying the 2004 Ford part or not putting it in isn't really an option anymore!

Logan's recommending the 2,700-stall, and he's the one that's had both S/C and N/A Marauders tried with both stock stalls and the aftermarket "looser" stall TCs. Lidio and G-man are saying 2,400 . . . Not sure what to do now! I would tend to go with Logan's advice, since he's speaking from direct comparisons, but if Lidio is saying something different . . .

Anyway, remember guys, we have this crappy 91-octane "premium" fuel here in California, so I'm not expecting the same performance tune as you all can have, so maybe I need the extra torque multiplication from the Stallion anyway? And I gotta tell ya all, that weird "hesitation" at 3,400-3,500 RPM drives me CRAZY, and I'm sure it's the stock TC doing that, right?

Anyway, thanks for all the detailed posts (I like it when Billy writes a book!), and thanks for your recommendation, Logan!

[Lidio]

NBC


That weird hesitation your experiencing at about 3000 to 3500rpm is real easy to explain… “ Its called to little cubic inch, with to many intake valves in to heavy of a car. It can in no way be tuned out no matter what any one says. The only way to fix it is totally is a roots type blower if your willing to go that route (sounds like you are). Or big gears with looser then stock torque-converter.

This is why even though the Impala SS had a lower HP rating then the current MM it is slightly faster and zero to sixty’s better then a stock MM. The peak HP number means nothing. Its just to sell cars and trucks. It’s the over all torque curve that gets the job done. This is why at least in my eyes and those who now own MMs with Trilogy blowers see that even though a Trilogy equipped MM doesn’t have a huge peak RWHP number…. It has a stout torque curve and is much more productive right off idle and through out the mid range and still makes impressive but not killer high rpm HP. Unless its highly modded above and beyond a stock trilogy set up.

Take some good advice if you don’t mind me saying…. If your on the fence about a converter swap with a Trilogy, just don’t do it at all or wait till you do the Trilogy first. And go from there.

Remember Jerry Barns and my self were out there a couple of months ago and I got to fully experience and tune a MM with only a Trilogy kit using the available 91 octane. The car ran awesome still and would burn the tires impressively with only the Blower and nothing else done to the car. I would personally only consider a 3.73, 3.91 or 4.10 in the axle first before a converter and then maybe the 3.2” blower pulley (stock it 3.4”). We’ve now set up several MMs with Trilogy’s with the 3.2” pulley (makes about 10.5psi and I’m sure will work fine with 91 octane) and 4.10’s and this is proven to be a very impressive over all combo for a MM with a slightly stepped up Trilogy package.

When I campaigned and drag raced Trilogy number one last year with only the stock Trilogy blower kit and nothing else done to the car, and I mean nuuuuthing…. it ran a very impressive 12.95 with 93 octane in 50-60 degree temps and 13.2’s to 13.4’s when it got to be about 85-90 degree temps. Then just before our trip to TX we then stepped up the boost to about 12psi and added 4.10’s, this got it into the mid 12’s with a best of 12.43.


Thanks

[Logan]

I fully agree with Lidio, Supercharge your car first, and if that ain't enough, then think about the convertor... Something I should've said myself. It'd definately be my approach if I did it again...

Personally, having driven my supercharged car with and without the stallion, I "preferred" the stallion, but WHEN I put the stallion back in, it'll be with a lower stall...

[BillyGman]

yep, it sounds to me like both Lidio and Logan are giving you sound advice. I agree. I hope that in some way we've all helped you Shooter.

[sailsmen]

It is amazing how the hotter ambient temp slows down a car in the 1/4 an easy .3 to .4.

Would a bigger intercooler or a remote mounted intercooler coolant cooler be a bigger benefit then 4:10 and higher boost? I would think an intercooler coolant cooler could be mounted in front of the radiator for a very reasonable sum.

[BillyGman]

I've heard of people putting cooler chests in their trunk to put ice in it, and plumbing coolant lines through it and the entire length of the car underneath, and into the Supercharger intercooler. But I guess it's all a matter of how far you want to go, and how much of a project you want to make it inorder to shave 3 to 4 tenths of a second off of your ET's.

[studio460]

Again, THANK YOU ALL for your input on the TC! I guess I'll keep the Stallion TC--I got in on the "Spring Sale" price from Dennis, so I JUMPED on it! I mean, I know I don't have the widened rims yet, and I only have the 255/45s on the rears, but more torque at low RPMs CAN'T be a BAD thing, right??? With the lower profile rear tires, I now have an effective 3.76 rear-end ratio, so I won't be putting in 4.10s or 4.30s anymore. See, ever since I put the Eibachs, the lower-series tires, and the Addco sway bar, the car handles AMAZING! So my reasoning was that I really need all the low-end torque possible to get OUT of the corners now!

[BillyGman]

So my reasoning was that I really need all the low-end torque possible to get OUT of the corners now!
Note to self: must get a Supercharger, so I can get the car out of the corners. (okay, that works) :D

[studio460]

That weird hesitation your experiencing at about 3000 to 3500rpm is real easy to explain . . . The only way to fix it is totally is a roots type blower if your willing to go that route (sounds like you are). Or big gears with looser then stock torque-converter.
Lidio:

Thanks for posting your comments in this thread, Lidio. I am DEFINITELY on the path to a Trilogy solution in the next few weeks!


Take some good advice, if you don’t mind me saying . . . If you're on the fence about a converter swap with a Trilogy, just don’t do it at all, or wait till you do the Trilogy first. And go from there.
Certainly ALWAYS willing to listen to advice from "The Master" Trilogy tech . . . I guess that sounds reasonable . . . but, in your opinion, should I just try return (or sell) the TC? I mean, I did get it at a good price. Is there any downside to having the looser Stallion TC in a supercharged set-up? Just curious what your opinions are on Logan's 2,700-RPM recommended stall speed and Billy's "300 RPM increase" comments? What stall speed do you recommend on the Stallion and why? Logan's recommendation seems compelling since he's done an apples-to-apples comparison. Thanks for all your input, Lidio--sorry to beat this thread to death!

[studio460]

Note to self: must get a Supercharger, so I can get the car out of the corners.
Billy:

That's EXACTLY how I finally made my decision! All of a sudden after the tires and Eibachs, I was taking the corners so well--I couldn't do ANY justice to EXITING the corners with my torque-less stock set-up! I HAD TO GET BLOWN!!!

[BillyGman]

LOL, sounds like a great plan to me Shooter!

[Lidio]

For now I’d say that above stock stall speed wouldn’t be a bad idea. Keep the Stallion you have and just get it reworked to be an honest 2500-2700 stall with the Trilogy. Not a 2700 N/A stall that becomes a 3500 with a trilogy because of its added low end torque.

I know on my own and because of what I’ve seen already with the ’04 converter and its very low cost plus traction issues that will ensue…. It will be the one I recommend the most.

[BillyGman]

One other thing that I hadn't commented on, was the Nitto N555R Drag Radials in the rain. I've driven my car 4 times in the rain since I had the Nitto P305 Drag radials mounted, and they're just fine in the rain. And I was driving in some downpours!!

[ParkRanger]

Shooter:

Good luck on your next S/C project! :up:

Keep the West Coast guys in your loop, as often as possible, as many of us also want to make the Trilogy change and will be carefully watching your change in performance. Will be waiting for the details. :D

Park Ranger

[studio460]

Hey there, Park Ranger!

I'm working on a consulting job on the side to pay for my Trilogy supercharger and installation. It may take as long as three months. As soon as the consulting project is, say, 75% done, I'll order the Trilogy kit. I'm having it installed at a place in the Valley that Jerry Barnes has spoken with. They seemed like a very professional shop when I spoke to the owner on the phone. Sounded like they do a lot of supercharger installations. They quoted me $1,500 for the install. Although they haven't done a Trilogy install on a Marauder yet, they were supposed to do a Marauder sometime soon for another customer. Hopefully, my install will come AFTER they've gained the experience from their first install.

I'll certainly keep you guys informed on the progress since there are NO other Southern California members that I know of who have added any type of supercharger yet. And if they're out there, they're either not here, or not talking about it on this board. I think we West Coasters always feel kind of left out (and very envious) when we hear about all the exciting things all the other members in Detroit, Chicago, Florida etc. are doing with their cars since they're within driving distance of such knowledgable Marauder-specific tuners and vendors like Lidio, Trilogy, and Dennis.

[ParkRanger]

Shooter:

Couldn't agree more!! Everytime I read about the other members and their S/C's I would get envious.

What about passing the smog test - will this be a problem?

Please keep me posted as I would like to see it after installation to help me make my decision. All the best and good luck with your MM.

ParkRanger :up:

[studio460]

What about passing the smog test - will this be a problem?ParkRanger:

Well, according to Jerry Barnes at Trilogy Motorsports, and other information I gathered at SEMA while talking with Jerry at the Ford booth, the car shouldn't have any trouble passing California emissions with the supercharger installed. I'm still not sure if the car would pass emissions if I install headers with the Magnaflow high flow cats, though. We now have four years before we have to smog a new car in California so at least I won't have to worry about this until 2007 (actually, I think I read that the governer is trying to extend that to five years). The only problem I can see with the supercharger and headers is if they do a visual inspection. Don't know if they all do a visual or not, or how lenient/observant the various smog shops are.

At least Jerry Barnes is continuing to work on getting their CARB certification for their Trilogy kit. It's taken so long, I just thought they gave up on becoming California-legal.