~1/4" Slop/Play in Driver's Axle

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Hi -


Just took the SB into the shop for what I thought was a front end issue:

Heard/felt a knock when tuning hard to the left.

Front end is tight - Turns out that there is ~1/8" play in the driver's side axle

Any ideas of the cause/repair?

I'm thinking that this may be my opportunity/excuse to get 4:10's.

Thanks,

Mark

[Mr. Man]

Could this be the early soft axle issue? If the axles are bad get the 31 splines to go with your 4.10's. I forget the years of the axles that fit, 2006 CV comes to mind. Others will know.

[ByronRACE]

The rear axles use the axle itself as the bearing surface, and are failure prone. Ford improved the axle designs in later year crown vics with bigger diameter axles to reduce this problem. With 1/4" of slop back there, I'd say you are at risk of having the axle snap. Be careful.

Once the bearings/axles fail once, it's very difficult to get all the metal out of the axle tubes/differential and failure to clean the housing properly can lead to the next failure in a short period of time.

I've replaced the rear axles in my marauder three times in 200K miles. The first time they failed at about 130K miles, and I noticed this when I heard a growl coming from the rear when I had rear seat full of passengers (unusual). At that time, I had a shop do the work and they used "bearing saver" bearings and reused the damaged axles. They did not properly clean the housing either. Of course, this failed in under 20K miles. Waste of time and money.

The second time, I replaced the bearings and axles myself. I bought Dorman assemblies online. I did not notice/realize that there was significant metal in the axle tubes. The shop had cleaned the ends of the axles before inserting the bearing savers, so unless you looked deep into the housing, you would never notice. This lasted about 20K miles. Annoying, but my fault.

The third time, I took my time and discovered the metal in the axle tubes and remedied that. I cleaned the housing thoroughly with diesel fuel and many many rags, pulling them through the axle tubes from the inside to the outside using a big metal hook/rod and a power drill to scrub the axle tubes. I also spun the differential with the car in gear on jack stands and sprayed it with a garden sprayer filled with diesel to try to wash any remaining metal out of the bearings. Then, lastly, I stuck a curved motor magnet in both axle tubes at the bottom where the lube flows (salvaged from a 3" case electric motor) to catch any more metal that might wash down there, and I put another powerful neo magnet in the differential housing near the bottom to catch metal. That solved it.

I'm now at 220K miles without issue. The differential makes a little more noise now than it did new...I'm sure the metal flake caused that...but the axles appear to be stable now.

If you are contemplating a ring&pinion and locker rebuild, do it. Clean the housing thouroughly. Consider upgrading to the larger bearings/axles while you're at it. I know the later crown vics came with this fix. I'm not sure if this requires the housing to change or not.

If you change the R&P to 4:10, are you going to recalibrate the PCM to fix the speedometer and shift points? I think you'll find that this change is enough to give you some annoying drivability "features" if you don't.

Good luck!

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Could this be the early soft axle issue? If the axles are bad get the 31 splines to go with your 4.10's. I forget the years of the axles that fit, 2006 CV comes to mind. Others will know.

I don't think so. While my SB is early (#81 - April 2, 2003), it's a 300B. Unsure if the axle problems impacted cars built this late.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

The rear axles use the axle itself as the bearing surface, and are failure prone. Ford improved the axle designs in later year crown vics with bigger diameter axles to reduce this problem. With 1/4" of slop back there, I'd say you are at risk of having the axle snap. Be careful.

Once the bearings/axles fail once, it's very difficult to get all the metal out of the axle tubes/differential and failure to clean the housing properly can lead to the next failure in a short period of time.

I've replaced the rear axles in my marauder three times in 200K miles. The first time they failed at about 130K miles, and I noticed this when I heard a growl coming from the rear when I had rear seat full of passengers (unusual). At that time, I had a shop do the work and they used "bearing saver" bearings and reused the damaged axles. They did not properly clean the housing either. Of course, this failed in under 20K miles. Waste of time and money.

The second time, I replaced the bearings and axles myself. I bought Dorman assemblies online. I did not notice/realize that there was significant metal in the axle tubes. The shop had cleaned the ends of the axles before inserting the bearing savers, so unless you looked deep into the housing, you would never notice. This lasted about 20K miles. Annoying, but my fault.

The third time, I took my time and discovered the metal in the axle tubes and remedied that. I cleaned the housing thoroughly with diesel fuel and many many rags, pulling them through the axle tubes from the inside to the outside using a big metal hook/rod and a power drill to scrub the axle tubes. I also spun the differential with the car in gear on jack stands and sprayed it with a garden sprayer filled with diesel to try to wash any remaining metal out of the bearings. Then, lastly, I stuck a curved motor magnet in both axle tubes at the bottom where the lube flows (salvaged from a 3" case electric motor) to catch any more metal that might wash down there, and I put another powerful neo magnet in the differential housing near the bottom to catch metal. That solved it.

I'm now at 220K miles without issue. The differential makes a little more noise now than it did new...I'm sure the metal flake caused that...but the axles appear to be stable now.

If you are contemplating a ring&pinion and locker rebuild, do it. Clean the housing thouroughly. Consider upgrading to the larger bearings/axles while you're at it. I know the later crown vics came with this fix. I'm not sure if this requires the housing to change or not.

If you change the R&P to 4:10, are you going to recalibrate the PCM to fix the speedometer and shift points? I think you'll find that this change is enough to give you some annoying drivability "features" if you don't.

Good luck!


Thanks for the great write up!

In thinking about it (and looking at a ruler), the play is more like 1/8" (a little more). Not as much as 1/4".

I have a 4:10 tune from Lidio so I'm good there.

I think that I'm looking at/shopping around for a gear install (as it will be opened up) and hope that nothing more is found.

Thanks again.

If anyone has any experience with what causes this, can you let me know? There is no fluid leaking, no sounds other than when turning tight to the right, no wandering when driving.

Thanks,

Mark

[Mr. Man]

How are your E-brakes?

[RubberCtyRauder]

it's a c clip set up, it has to have some free play. 1/8 th inch pretty normal, but maybe not 1/8th inch e each way

[Zack]

Normal. 67890

[Comin' in Hot]

The rear axles use the axle itself as the bearing surface, and are failure prone. Ford improved the axle designs in later year crown vics with bigger diameter axles to reduce this problem. With 1/4" of slop back there, I'd say you are at risk of having the axle snap. Be careful.

Good luck!

It doesn't matter if you have 28 or 31 spline axles, the axle diameter is the same size at the bearing and both 28 and 31 spline axles use the same bearing. The difference is the 28 spline axles taper down at the spline end and are weaker.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

How are your E-brakes?
Fine. How is this related?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Spectragod]

Fine. How is this related?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If your bearing are bad, your seals will be too, i.e. You will be leaking gear oil from the offending seal, which, will coat your e brake assemblies.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

If your bearing are bad, your seals will be too, i.e. You will be leaking gear oil from the offending seal, which, will coat your e brake assemblies.

Thanks. I don't see any leaks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Spectragod]

Thanks. I don't see any leaks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It is generally pretty obvious when it happens.

[Mr. Man]

Fine. How is this related?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
You mentioned a sound when turning, and based on the others saying a wee bit of play is normal in axle movement I'm spitballin' on what the noise could be.:)

[WhatsUpDOHC]

You mentioned a sound when turning, and based on the others saying a wee bit of play is normal in axle movement I'm spitballin' on what the noise could be.:)

OK - Thanks for your help!

[WhatsUpDOHC]

So, I called around and got a couple of prices for the installation of my 4:10's and the repair of the axle play.

I'll probably go with Radical Racing in Atco, NJ. Craig Radovich (owner) is very well known in Mustang racing circles. He helped me a great deal when I was trying to get the Trilogy inspected (I've since given up on inspections - Going with a Collectors Inspection that only requires me to keep the car under 6000 miles every 2 years).

I'll report back on my experience with Craig. He quoted me $400 for the job.

He thinks that the play is being introduced by worn clutches. He has a set of Ford Racing clutches that he'll sell me.

Thank you everyone! More to come.

Mark

[lifespeed]

deleted 6789

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Picked up the car last night. Slop gone (was the clutches - Cleaning the housing was a bear!).

As many have noted, with the 410s, the car feels much lighter.

Only drove it for about 30 minutes.

No noises of any kind.

Will report more soon.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk