Regarding a new coolant system design

[Mackdombles]

I am in the end process of installing an 04 Mach 1 engine into my 09 vic. I figured you guys know this engine in this body even though its not a marauder.

I am redesigning the coolant system and was hoping for some advice on my design. All 4 top head coolant ports run to a collector/thermostat housing near the radiator. The rear head cooling mods tee together and into the heater core then back to the waterpump.

My concern is weather the temp of the coolant at the thermostat will reach opening temp without a delay compared to the coolant in the engine. The delay being caused by the fact the radiation will have to travel through basically static fluid to reach the stat. I may be over thinking it.

the heater core feed will just draw from the lower head ports and go through the core then back to the block/waterpump. Ive installed the oem temp sensor in this line pre heater core obviously, to give me an instant temp since it flows full time. here is a very detailed insanly professional computer aided chart showing my system. I didnt label anything so ask if you need to.

thanks in advance for any advice given

[Zack]

The marauder setup uses a bypass system to get coolant to the stat. In your case, just get the ON3 delete kit and go

[Mackdombles]

The marauder setup uses a bypass system to get coolant to the stat. In your case, just get the ON3 delete kit and go

Advice I may should have taken.

[massacre]

Is this a street car?
That is an awfully exotic setup, something that I would use if I raced the car at Watkins Glen professionally and for money.

[Mackdombles]

Is this a street car?
That is an awfully exotic setup, something that I would use if I raced the car at Watkins Glen professionally and for money.

Leaving well enough alone isn't my strong suit. I started to amass parts and found myself wanting to try something new. It's not a race car, but it does have the cop chip. And now a 5 speed as well.

[massacre]

So it's more of a spectacle than a necessity?

[Mackdombles]

More of an "I don't conform to society" Frankenstein of a car. But I still want it to be reliable.

The good news is I've had 2 hours of idle time and while it does take a bit longer to warm up, it stays rock solid @ 202 degrees. I actually took my maiden just now and the 4v and manual swap is a success. Temp didn't move.
I still need to get a tune from Marty but it runs fairly well otherwise. Idle hangs like it has a vacuum leak but I smoked it and found no leak. I am running an 09 pcm so it is drive by wire.

[massacre]

Any pics?
Where is your thermostat located? If you use a bypass it will heat up in a normal amount of time. Also 202 seems high to me

[Mackdombles]

The thermostat is inside the manifold/collector. It really is similar to the on3 minus the temp sensor and heater core outlets
I don't have a pic, but will try to snap some. Built it out of aluminum. And regarding the temp, the oem stat is 195.
I'm not saying this is perfect or even finished, but it's in the ballpark for being a somewhat original idea.

[Mackdombles]

I guess a bit of an inexpensive version of the on3. I didn't use AN fittings and whatnot. Just good Ole hose clamps.
I actually bought the inline thermostat housing from jegs
and welded the 4 5/8 nipples onto it. Imagine a raw aluminum on3 with 4 nipples where the 2 are.

[massacre]

The thermostat is inside the manifold/collector. It really is similar to the on3 minus the temp sensor and heater core outlets
I don't have a pic, but will try to snap some. Built it out of aluminum. And regarding the temp, the oem stat is 195.
I'm not saying this is perfect or even finished, but it's in the ballpark for being a somewhat original idea.

Many ppl have used the 4 ports at the top of the heads, not so original.
The whole point is for the engine to run cooler, so why run it at 200 degrees?
Seems like you decided to make 4 hoses do the job of 2 hoses with zero temp reduction, essentially making a less efficient cooling system.
This is going solely by your description, since you haven't posted any pics.
Is this with stock water pump and radiator?
What are your goals with this system?

[Mackdombles]

Many ppl have used the 4 ports at the top of the heads, not so original.
The whole point is for the engine to run cooler, so why run it at 200 degrees?
Seems like you decided to make 4 hoses do the job of 2 hoses with zero temp reduction, essentially making a less efficient cooling system.
This is going solely by your description, since you haven't posted any pics.
Is this with stock water pump and radiator?
What are your goals with this system?

Nah the whole point is that I have installed an 04 mach 1 motor and trans into an 09 vic for fun. I have no crossover tube that exits on the correct side and you people want my first born for a marauder COT used with rust and spiders. Also had no marauder thermostat housing.

I wasnt trying to lower temps. I was trying to come up with a less expensive alternative for a part I saw on the internet. I enjoy building things and the R and D process of a project.

Stock waterpump and radiator.

My goal is to drive my car. I was simply finally at official startup and drive day , and was bored at work, so I thought I would get some advice on weather you folks thought my design would work without a bypass.

The good news is, it works. Again this is exactly the first day it has ran and tested. It is not an end result, but the starting point for my project.

And thank you for all your advice. It has been very helpful. :)

[Mackdombles]

Many ppl have used the 4 ports at the top of the heads, not so original.


I said somewhat. I was referring more to the 4 port collector and housing.
But thanks for keeping me in line.

[massacre]

I said somewhat. I was referring more to the 4 port collector and housing.
But thanks for keeping me in line.

You are taking it the wrong way, nobody is keeping anyone in line, many have made 4-into-1 manifolds for their modulars. You obviously were unaware of this fact, just making you aware of it.
Name of the thread is "new coolant system design" but it's not really new at all. Again just letting you know.

[Mackdombles]

Thank you for your advice.

[massacre]

Thank you for posting pics to help us understand exactly what you are doing.

[massacre]

double post sorry

[Mackdombles]

This really isn't relevant to the question I was asking but you might be able to make out what the piece looks like.

[massacre]

Thanks for the pic!
Looks like you did a great job with that, very nice.
You can weld another fitting or bung to the other side of the housing to bypass the thermostat so that coolant will always be circulating. Some guys drill holes in the thermostat, I have never done it but some swear by it.

The on3 kit has such a provision if you look at this pic where it says "fitting for head cooling mod return line"
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/2667/UyJRXx.jpg

After seeing your work, I have no doubt you will be able to make it work.

[Mackdombles]

As you can clearly see in the picture, I hung the car from the ceiling of my garage.

[massacre]

Well obviously

[justbob]

As you can clearly see in the picture, I hung the car from the ceiling of my garage.



Interesting way of working on it! [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mackdombles]

Got the tune for the swaps installed.
Temp driving around after tune actually doesn't get warm enough. Goes to around 185 then proceeds back down to the 155 area. If I sit for awhile it creeps back up to 185-190. It's a cool night so I will recheck when warmer.
It has a 160 that was drilled. I wanted to start out conservative with such a different than stock coolant system design. I'm going to switch to a 180 not drilled in a few days to see what's up.

[GoldPanther]

Awesome job, congrats.
I have question, what type of throttle body did you use so it worked with the electric throttle?

[Mackdombles]

2005 Mustang. I have an 11 gt500 tb but it's a bit large. So far works great.

[Mackdombles]

Ok installed the 180 and it heats up like stock as far as time. It gets to 185-190 and stays at idle. It creeps to 200-201 then the fans come on and back down it goes.
Driving still gets it down in the 160 range and doesn't matter how hard I drive it. Waiting for an 80 day tomorrow to test it better.