Transmission failed again today

[Muddflapp]

2004 DTR transmission code R 45000mi
Won't go into 3rd from 2nd, goes to neutral instead about 2500rpm.
This time the O/D light is blinking.

06/22/2013 32512mi Transmission flush
10/30/2015 40020mi Transmission rebuilt
05/02/2017 45621mi Transmission failing like 10/2015

I used to engine brake with the O/D switch because I like the exhaust sound. Mechanic says that didn't break it. Even though, I now never touch the O/D button and I don't do engine braking.
I let off the gas and use the brake pedal. I drive normal, but not often. I swap out with two other cars during the week. I drive the car at least once per week.

The past two weeks, I drove the Marauder almost exclusively M-F to and from work 23mi each way. I drove a different car twice during the last 2 weeks. I did not drive other times.

Just like before, about 2 miles from home, I could feel something catch or release while exiting the freeway and I noticed that I had no forward drive.
As the engine rpms went down while braking for a stop, I felt a catch again.
That was the transmission going into 2nd gear, then 1st at the light.
It would not get past 2nd gear for the rest of the way home.
I tried once to see if it would catch at a higher rpm (3500) and it did not. I slowed down and drove the car 35-45mph in 2nd gear keeping rpms at 2400 or lower.

The O/D light is flashing. Playing with the O/D button I swore off of didn't change anything.

I have a laptop with a USB to ODBII cable and software for an Audi and the ODBII software when connected to the Marauder says it can't talk CAN.
The software successfully pulls DTC codes from my Audi and Mini, but it can't "get connected" to the Marauder.

Here's some notes from the Transmission Specialist on 10/30/2015:
Road test vehicle, verify transmission slips in 3rd, neutrals at times.
Perform Electronic Transmission Diagnosis. Perform KOEO, KOER, no DTCs.
Perform line pressure test. Idle P50-60, R 75-90, D 55-60.
Remove transmission and disassemble. Found 2-3 accumulator piston torn and direct clutch welded together. Perform cost CAP for ESP prior approval.
Mount transmission in bench. Overhaul transmission per cost CAP. Flush transmission cooler. Inspect torque converter, overhaul valve body. Install transmission and road test.

It's been good until today.

[camelgrundle]

If you use O/D don't constantly hit the button just keep it off unless on the highway. And take it back to the transmission shop that fixed it. It sounds like the "fix" was not done correctly and they might work with you.

[Gerry24]

One of the members here is a transmission guru, & I'm trying to remember is name. He's done great threads that I've read here.

[RubberCtyRauder]

marauder is not can bus, so no communicate. that started in like 05 i think for panthers in general. dont do WOT with OD on. the od band will break

[88grandmarq]

either the Direct clutch (3rd gear) failed or the intermediate/stub shaft broke.

[Muddflapp]

It's been sitting in the backyard for about 3 hours. I drove it around the block a couple of times (not enough for full temp) and it seemed fine. However, I did lock out the overdrive (green light on) for all driving except highway driving or when I think I might punch it or punch it and hold it.

When it was rebuilt a year and a half ago for the same problem, I notice he inspected the torque converter but didn't replace it. I read today somewhere that a malfunctioning torque converter can cause other transmission problems. I'll say he was pretty good as I didn't have to take it back for rework until next month. I wonder if my ESP will foot the bill twice.

My Ross-tech USB-ODBII with CAN cable and software used to be able to pull and clear ODBII codes before I updated from Win 7 to Win 10 and an updated version of Ross-tech. It still works with my 03 Mini. I was amazed that it could run 39 Audi tests and I was able to program the MMI display to show battery percentage (disabled by default) and I also programmed two remotes through the ODBII cable to make one remote open and close all the windows and the other remote open and close only the front windows and the moonroof of my Audi. It's just a strait ODBII scanner with the Mini and the Marauder (but doesn't work on the Marauder any more). I'll check into that on AudiWorld and Ross-teck later..

[Gerry24]

either the Direct clutch (3rd gear) failed or the intermediate/stub shaft broke.

^^^this is him^^^

[Muddflapp]

Yes, Thanks.
I've seen a quite a few posts from 88grandmarq over the years..

[88grandmarq]

It's been sitting in the backyard for about 3 hours. I drove it around the block a couple of times (not enough for full temp) and it seemed fine. However, I did lock out the overdrive (green light on) for all driving except highway driving or when I think I might punch it or punch it and hold it.

When it was rebuilt a year and a half ago for the same problem, I notice he inspected the torque converter but didn't replace it. I read today somewhere that a malfunctioning torque converter can cause other transmission problems. I'll say he was pretty good as I didn't have to take it back for rework until next month. I wonder if my ESP will foot the bill twice.

My Ross-tech USB-ODBII with CAN cable and software used to be able to pull and clear ODBII codes before I updated from Win 7 to Win 10 and an updated version of Ross-tech. It still works with my 03 Mini. I was amazed that it could run 39 Audi tests and I was able to program the MMI display to show battery percentage (disabled by default) and I also programmed two remotes through the ODBII cable to make one remote open and close all the windows and the other remote open and close only the front windows and the moonroof of my Audi. It's just a strait ODBII scanner with the Mini and the Marauder (but doesn't work on the Marauder any more). I'll check into that on AudiWorld and Ross-teck later..

Mostly likely the there are shift ratio error codes being caused an internal, mechanical failure. clearing or resolving the codes will not make it shift in most cases.

[WPG_Merc]

I Snapped the input shaft losing 3rd & 4th gear resulting to a rebuild at the Louisville meet. :eek: :(

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=101544216866924 83&set=a.10154424837532483&type=3&theater

[88grandmarq]

I Snapped the input shaft losing 3rd & 4th gear resulting to a rebuild at the Louisville meet. :eek: :(

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=101544216866924 83&set=a.10154424837532483&type=3&theater

thats not the input shaft... so I am confused why you have pictures of the forward clutch drum in there too.

[tbone]

Stub shaft. That is the one with the machined collar at the top of the splines that loves to shear off clean. I thought it was discontinued before our cars were built. Like around 1998?

[Muddflapp]

Seems to be fine now..
Back in 10/2015 transmission went from 2 to neutral instead of 3.
Transmission overhauled with extended warranty from https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/
Happened again 05/2017. Covered under local 3 year warranty
Notes from the invoice:

A trans 2 gear shifts @2500 into 3rd only when hot c/s feels a jerk
Cause: casual Part 7G484 CC 42
10 auto transmission
729198 W 10.30 (n/c)
12 XT*5*QMC Fluid - Transmission (n/c)
1 6L3Z*7G484*A Solenoid asy (n/c)
1 F8AZ*7G276*AA Connector (n/c)
1 F8AZ*7G276*BA Connector (n/c)
1 F2TZ*7F196*A Band asy - overdrive (n/c)
1 F2VY*7a136*A Gasket (n/c)
1 2L3Z*7A248*AA Seal (n/c)
Verify customer concern during road test after warm, transmission delayed 2-3 shift
Perform electonic transmission diagnosis, retrieve dtc P0755 and P0758
Perform pinpoint test A in wsm
PPT A1 yes enter branch mode
PPT A2 no ssb solenoid does not change state during wiggle test
PPT A3 no ssb solenoid does not click when commanding on
PPT A6 remove pan and check voltage at solenoid it changes state
PPT A7 tool does slide through easily
PPT A8 SSB solenoid resistance at 42 ohms out of range
During removal of pan found clutch contamination in pan, remove transmission
and disassemble found overdrive band damaged, mount transmission
bench holding fixture overhaul transmission, flush transmission cooler,
clean and inspect torque converter overhaul valve body and replace bad solenoid
and loose lead frame.
Install transmission and road test after repair

[ByronRACE]

I lost my first transmission at 15K miles. Within 5K miles of the rebuild, I detected some weird shift behavior after manually downshifting to 2nd then bumping it back into D. It failed to shift, then shifted, then failed to shift to 4th, then shifted. After playing with it I realized there was something goofy about manually shifting, so I checked out the shift sensor with a scan tool and found that it was flakey. It would indicate 2 when in 3; and would jitter between 2 and 3 rapidly. According to my trans guy; that is likely what killed the first transmission; the PCM was commanding 2-3 and 3-2 shifts based on the sensor input while cruising down the road and the intermittent nature of it can cause slippage because the solenoids are basically being PWM modulated incorrectly. No idea if this has any bearing on your situation. My 2nd trans has over 200K on it. No issues.

[sailsmen]

I got 100K miles and over 100 1/4 runs on a trans with 541RWHP on it.