BCM part #

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Can somebody please supply me with the BCM part number?
Mine is working intermittently again.
This will be my 4th. I will save the old one this time.
Heat just kills this part.

[Svashtar]

One thing I know about; recommend not getting the OEM one. Go to RockAuto and step through the parts based on your car, and get the replacement part with improved circuitry. Mine failed and I resoldered it and got another year out of it, then I went with this one I'm recommending. That was 6 years ago or so, and no issues.

I checked the solder points against the OEM and it looks beefier all around. I'll see if I can find the info on that part number, but hopefully RA still has that option.




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[fastblackmerc]

Can somebody please supply me with the BCM part number?
Mine is working intermittently again.
This will be my 4th. I will save the old one this time.
Heat just kills this part.

I can repair your BCM. Will guaranty it for the life of the vehicle.

[fastblackmerc]

Ford P/N: 8W7Z-19E624-A or YH-1826

[Svashtar]

Found it: Airtex / Wells Blower Motor Control Module / Resistor, Part # WS3 4P1587.

Based on the performance of this part I just ordered a replacement Airtex EGR valve from RA yesterday, only $2 more than the OEM part. ($91)


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[Svashtar]

BTW, just found in my pile, to answer your initial question:

"BCM OEM part no: 9W73-19E624-AA, OR, 8W7Z-19E624-A, Tascaparts.com"


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[BLACKMARAUDER04]

One of the items I want you to fix. I think I have 4 HVAC units that need O-rings + a BCM.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

What is a EGR valve?

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Ordered the part at Amazon using YH-1826. About the same price as
Rock Auto, But I'll have it Wednesday morning.

[RF Overlord]

What is a EGR valve?Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Does exactly what is sounds like. Just about every car since 1974 has one.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Had the BCM replaced last week.
Part looks fried (burnt). It is non-repairable.


I have now recovered the MAX on my air conditioning.
This tells me the BCM has been bad for several months.


Now every once in a while, the Blower Motor stops working.
If I open the hood and jiggle the power connection, it turns right back on.
Has anyone else had this problem? Maybe a chafing wire near there?

[Svashtar]

Well, I had this exact problem both times prior to the BCM failing. I would jiggle the unit and it would come on for a while, then stop again a couple days later. Had nothing to do with the power connection, it was the unit itself.
As you just had yours replaced, that wouldn't seem likely, but just saying...

Sorry, my bad for assuming: power connection to where? The blower motor or BCM?

[tbone]

The electric motor is shot.

[fastblackmerc]

Had the BCM replaced last week.
Part looks fried (burnt). It is non-repairable.


I have now recovered the MAX on my air conditioning.
This tells me the BCM has been bad for several months.


Now every once in a while, the Blower Motor stops working.
If I open the hood and jiggle the power connection, it turns right back on.
Has anyone else had this problem? Maybe a chafing wire near there?

Ford BCM or other?

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I would only use Motorcraft on that part.
It's the connection to the Blower itself that I jiggle.
Then the blower starts again.

[fastblackmerc]

I fix BCMs, PM me.

[Svashtar]

I would only use Motorcraft on that part.
It's the connection to the Blower itself that I jiggle.
Then the blower starts again.



The trouble is, like the LCM, the OEM part is junk and is going to fail. I'm not going to go into the firewall every couple of years with an 8mm wobbly on a 12" extension past the rear engine cooling mod fighting for millimeters because Ford couldn't put better circuitry in the thing.

In retrospect I should have sent it to FBM, or at least had the good sense to send him the busted OEM unit after I replaced it with the better Airtex so I'd have a spare.

[fastblackmerc]

The trouble is, like the LCM, the OEM part is junk and is going to fail. I'm not going to go into the firewall every couple of years with an 8mm wobbly on a 12" extension past the rear engine cooling mod fighting for millimeters because Ford couldn't put better circuitry in the thing.

In retrospect I should have sent it to FBM, or at least had the good sense to send him the busted OEM unit after I replaced it with the better Airtex so I'd have a spare.

IMHO... The OEM part is superior to any of the aftermarket parts.

The problem with the OEM BCM is the solder used has no lead in it for RoHS compliance. No lead means the solder joints are brittle and any flexing - thermal cycling causes cracks in the solder. Cracks = loss of a connection. Tapping the BCM closes the crack(s), making the connection for a period of time until the BCM experiences movement ie. car shaking, speed bumps, thermal cycling, etc.

To get a proper solder joint you need to get the terminal hot so the solder flows properly. If you look at the BCM circuit board, the connectors are thick so you'll need a lot of heat on those connectors.

When i repair them i use a very high heat soldering iron with a big tip...... TWSS....

I also use 50/50 lead / tin solder so the joint stays flexible.

I have a few BCM's instock that have been repaired and can ship them for about 1/3 the cost of a new one. All I ask is that you send back your old one so it can be repaired and sent to someone else.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=85889

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

So do you think I need to replace the Blower motor now?
It's happening usually once a day.
If it happens, I open the hood and jiggle the wire connection at the outside of the blower itself. Then the Air comes on at full strength.
Please don't confuse the BCM with the blower motor itself.
The new BCM is working perfectly.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Part isn't very expensive. About $40 on Amazon.
Question, do I need to replace the seal at the same time?
part # D9AZ18N260A


I would have to purchase it from someone other than Amazon.

[fastblackmerc]

So do you think I need to replace the Blower motor now?
It's happening usually once a day.
If it happens, I open the hood and jiggle the wire connection at the outside of the blower itself. Then the Air comes on at full strength.
Please don't confuse the BCM with the blower motor itself.
The new BCM is working perfectly.

Can you disconnect the blower motor connector? If so, I'd bend the male terminals a bit so they make better contact. I'd also put a small amount of silicone dielectric grease in the connector.

If you have to jiggle the wire that goes into the motor you have to end up replacing the motor.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Do I need to replace the motor seal if I replace the motor?

[fastblackmerc]

Do I need to replace the motor seal if I replace the motor?

Unless it's torn up, I'd say no.

[Svashtar]

IMHO... The OEM part is superior to any of the aftermarket parts.

The problem with the OEM BCM is the solder used has no lead in it for RoHS compliance. No lead means the solder joints are brittle and any flexing - thermal cycling causes cracks in the solder. Cracks = loss of a connection. Tapping the BCM closes the crack(s), making the connection for a period of time until the BCM experiences movement ie. car shaking, speed bumps, thermal cycling, etc.

To get a proper solder joint you need to get the terminal hot so the solder flows properly. If you look at the BCM circuit board, the connectors are thick so you'll need a lot of heat on those connectors.

When i repair them i use a very high heat soldering iron with a big tip...... TWSS....

I also use 50/50 lead / tin solder so the joint stays flexible.

I have a few BCM's instock that have been repaired and can ship them for about 1/3 the cost of a new one. All I ask is that you send back your old one so it can be repaired and sent to someone else.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=85889

Good to know; I went with the Airtex over the OEM because they specifically stated it had "thicker trace widths than OE," and "Ceramic coated steel printed circuit board design for durability and longevity." Of course the OEM unit could have the same there. If it's still going in 4-5 years I'll have to give the nod to the aftermarket part, but we'll see if it makes it that far.

When I soldered up the failed OEM unit, I don't think I got it hot enough from what you're saying. I got it to work for a while longer, but that was it.

The lesson I'm learning is never toss an OEM part, working or not.