Engine Oil Cooler with a Chasis Mounted 1Qt Oil Filter

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Sorry if this was talked about before but has anyone looked into installing an Engine Oil Cooler as well as an external chasis mounted 1QT oil filter ? you mount a fitting onto the block connect the hoses to the cooler and return the oil through the oil filter and return back into the block . that way you clean and cool your engine oil . doe's this sound possible or am I shooting way off the cuff here???

[Logan]

I've been looking for a cooler myself, haven't found one I like yet...

[joflewbyu2]

If you are using a good quality full synthetic oil like Redline, Amsoil or Mobil 1, you should not have a problem with heat. I noticed that in the Ford racing catalog it states that oil filter relocation units should NOT be used on performance engines. Probably has to do with oil pressure and trying to reduce the number of restrictions.

[merc406]

One of the better coolers out are the stacked plate ones put out by B&M. They have one for oil, some say you don't need em' but you guys in the dessert climates from Hell, need em. Get the proper steel braided hoses and fittings, and you'll have no problems.

[03SILVERSTREAK]

If you are using a good quality full synthetic oil like Redline, Amsoil or Mobil 1, you should not have a problem with heat. I noticed that in the Ford racing catalog it states that oil filter relocation units should NOT be used on performance engines. Probably has to do with oil pressure and trying to reduce the number of restrictions.Folks its not about heat , its about cooling your oil to help keep your engine much cooler or does this idea not work ?

[merc406]

It is about heat, and no you don't need one in NY.

[03SILVERSTREAK]

It is about heat, and no you don't need one in NY.
OK-then the relocated oil filter is an option ?

[merc406]

Someone here has done that, think he's the guy using Amsoil oil. He has picture's in the gallery somewhere.

[TAF]

Someone here has done that, think he's the guy using Amsoil oil. He has picture's in the gallery somewhere.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6311&highlight=remote+oil+filter

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Someone here has done that, think he's the guy using Amsoil oil. He has picture's in the gallery somewhere.Yes I believe I saw that thread although I don't know if its wise to change your oil every 10-thousand miles . :cool:

[Sactown]

Yes I believe I saw that thread although I don't know if its wise to change your oil every 10-thousand miles . :cool:
I'm looking to add an Amsoil bypass filter. For me the purpose is simply to make changing the oil filter easier. This MM filter is one of the hardest I've dealt with, though I am sure there are worse ones. Anyway, The 10k oil change is not required, it is just acheivable with the dual filtration setup. I'll still go with a regular interval, just less swearing when I change the filter.


If you are using a good quality full synthetic oil like Redline, Amsoil or Mobil 1, you should not have a problem with heat. I noticed that in the Ford racing catalog it states that oil filter relocation units should NOT be used on performance engines. Probably has to do with oil pressure and trying to reduce the number of restrictions.
I read the cautionary remark on Ford Racing web site also. Are they being overly cautious (legal maneuvering)? Will this void my warranty? Any thoughts appreciated!

[Amsoil_Dealer]

Sactown,

No, it will not void your warranty, particularly if you stay with a 5000 mile drain interval. Ford would have to prove that the remote filter caused a failure (if there ever was one). Even if they would bother with that, Amsoil warrants the remote kit (if installed properly) and the oil. The risk is minimal. This technology has been around for years on trucks.

You should talk to One bad MM. He'll tell you his experience.

For the record, while I have proven Amsoil can endure 15,000 mile drain intervals in my Crown Vic (used oil analysis reports to substantiate), I do not recommend that people with cars under warranty extend their drain intervals. This is simply for warranty validation purposes.

Don

[David Morton]

I'm sorry guys but I have to put in my two cents here.

I went to school to learn about oil from the guys that designed the cars we drive. Oil is designed to do two things for us not just one. The other thing it does, that is essential, is clean the engine.

Our gas is filthy, full of crap that makes varnish that gums up the rings, lifters and anything else it touches, and gasoline touches everything inside an engine. All engine oils contain detergents to break-up and suspend this crap so we can remove it when we change the oil. If you want to see how powerful this stuff is, do a brake job and wash your hands with fresh engine oil before you use soap. It'll power that fine dust and grease out from under your fingernails.

How many loads of dishes do you wash on one shot of soap? Well you can see your dishwater and how good a job it's doing. You can't see the inside of your engine.

So here's what I and every other factory automotive engineer I've ever spoken to does. We buy the highest API rated "detergent" oil, on sale, and change every 2500 miles, religiously. It's called cheap insurance, and in the case of oil, it's very cheap. $12 for Quaker State and high Quality filter. X4 for $48 every ten thousand. Now how much are you paying to gunk your engine up with varnish using synthetics because they can "stand the heat and go ten thousand miles"?

Sorry if I sounded sarcastic. It just bothers me sometimes to hear guys spouting about synthetics the race boys use (and change every 500 miles) when they don't need it and hurt their engines to try and save a dime.

By all means use synthetics if you want, they have the same good detergents. Just change them every 2500 miles.

[merc406]

I'm sorry guys but I have to put in my two cents here.

I went to school to learn about oil from the guys that designed the cars we drive. Oil is designed to do two things for us not just one. The other thing it does, that is essential, is clean the engine.

Our gas is filthy, full of crap that makes varnish that gums up the rings, lifters and anything else it touches, and gasoline touches everything inside an engine. All engine oils contain detergents to break-up and suspend this crap so we can remove it when we change the oil. If you want to see how powerful this stuff is, do a brake job and wash your hands with fresh engine oil before you use soap. It'll power that fine dust and grease out from under your fingernails.

How many loads of dishes do you wash on one shot of soap? Well you can see your dishwater and how good a job it's doing. You can't see the inside of your engine.

So here's what I and every other factory automotive engineer I've ever spoken to does. We buy the highest API rated "detergent" oil, on sale, and change every 2500 miles, religiously. It's called cheap insurance, and in the case of oil, it's very cheap. $12 for Quaker State and high Quality filter. X4 for $48 every ten thousand. Now how much are you paying to gunk your engine up with varnish using synthetics because they can "stand the heat and go ten thousand miles"?

Sorry if I sounded sarcastic. It just bothers me sometimes to hear guys spouting about synthetics the race boys use (and change every 500 miles) when they don't need it and hurt their engines to try and save a dime.

By all means use synthetics if you want, they have the same good detergents. Just change them every 2500 miles.


Go ahead and do what you want to, everyone has an opinion and alot depends on the way you drive the car,( highway or city ) highway miles you can strech the changes. Syn's are different than Dino, change the syn's more offten than 7,500 miles than just use the Dino crap, your just wasting your money.

[Sactown]

I'm sorry guys but I have to put in my two cents here.

I went to school to learn about oil from the guys that designed the cars we drive. Oil is designed to do two things for us not just one. The other thing it does, that is essential, is clean the engine.

Our gas is filthy, full of crap that makes varnish that gums up the rings, lifters and anything else it touches, and gasoline touches everything inside an engine. All engine oils contain detergents to break-up and suspend this crap so we can remove it when we change the oil. If you want to see how powerful this stuff is, do a brake job and wash your hands with fresh engine oil before you use soap. It'll power that fine dust and grease out from under your fingernails.

How many loads of dishes do you wash on one shot of soap? Well you can see your dishwater and how good a job it's doing. You can't see the inside of your engine.

So here's what I and every other factory automotive engineer I've ever spoken to does. We buy the highest API rated "detergent" oil, on sale, and change every 2500 miles, religiously. It's called cheap insurance, and in the case of oil, it's very cheap. $12 for Quaker State and high Quality filter. X4 for $48 every ten thousand. Now how much are you paying to gunk your engine up with varnish using synthetics because they can "stand the heat and go ten thousand miles"?

Sorry if I sounded sarcastic. It just bothers me sometimes to hear guys spouting about synthetics the race boys use (and change every 500 miles) when they don't need it and hurt their engines to try and save a dime.

By all means use synthetics if you want, they have the same good detergents. Just change them every 2500 miles.

I agree that a more frequent change interval is better. But better filtration keeps the oil at its best while in the engine. I'm choosing to go with the dual filtration of an amsoil bypass system, possibly an added oil cooler, Mobil 1, and changing every 4-5K miles (mostly highway). Merc406 is right...everyone has an opinion on oil, and only time will tell which ones are fine for your car.

To get back on the topic....


One of the better coolers out are the stacked plate ones put out by B&M. They have one for oil, some say you don't need em' but you guys in the dessert climates from Hell, need em. Get the proper steel braided hoses and fittings, and you'll have no problems.
Any problems using this in addition to a bypass filter? Would I be adding too much plumbing and restriction for the oil pump or is this a non issue?

[1 BAD 03 MM]

David,

I beg to differ my friend. Why are more new cars coming with synthetics, and longer drain intervals? It's a trend that will continue until eventually all cars run synthetics from the factory. It just makes sense.

I change my oil based on oil analysis. Could be 7,500, could be 25,000, depends on what the metals content is, and what the TBN (Total Base Number - Detergents, Friction Modifiers, VI's) is. That's potentially ten times the interval you recommend using Dino. 10*6.5Qts=65Qts or 16.25 GALLONS of waste oil. 16.25 Gallons * 100,000 cars = 1.625 MILLION GALLONS. Where does it go, what do they do with it. (I already use enough gasoline in my MM)

The more we change our oil, the more we stay dependent on foreign oil. :down:

CLEAN Oil and lots of FLOW, not Pressure.

I realise that synthetics come from some of the same base chemicals, but for the most part the basestocks are manufactured in the USA. :up:

My 0.03.5 cents

[David Morton]

I'll be changing my oil every 2500 miles. like the engineers do. My experience as an ASE Master Technician at GM dealerships and as a municipal bus fleet maintenance tech tells me the members of the "Frequent Fluid Changers Club" get the most out of their vehicles. And the same thing goes for coolant (drain & fill every year) and ATF (every 25,000 mi). It really is cheap insurance. If you want to save the environment, buy a hybrid or electric. If you want to stop dependence on foreign oil, be prepared to change everything about your lifestyle because this society uses petroleum products in almost everything, even some of the foods we eat!

Back to the topic, I'd like the remote dual filters very much. Braided steel hoses and a nice protected area, maybe even with a steel cover to protect the filters would be great! Want more cooling? Make hose/pipe assemblies and put the filters in the back of the car! Put in an air bleed valve to break suction and let the lines drain out.

Sorry about the "Batcar" talk. I get carried away. :D

[Amsoil_Dealer]

So here's what I and every other factory automotive engineer I've ever spoken to does. We buy the highest API rated "detergent" oil, on sale, and change every 2500 miles, religiously. It's called cheap insurance, and in the case of oil, it's very cheap. $12 for Quaker State and high Quality filter. X4 for $48 every ten thousand. Now how much are you paying to gunk your engine up with varnish using synthetics because they can "stand the heat and go ten thousand miles"?



I stole the following quote from another thread as I think it applies here.

"A wise friend of mine once said of computer operating systems: use what you like and ridicule everything else. I think that goes for cars, too."

I don't mean to ridicule as I will never argue that your 2500 change plan will keep the engine clean and the wear low. Also, for those of you who don’t drive very much in a year that is a decent strategy. However, as a counter to David’s $48 for 10000 miles, consider my application. I put 50,000 miles a year on my car so if I changed my oil every 2500 miles I'd be changing it every three weeks. I don't have time for that. I actually change my Amsoil every 15000 miles or so (with filter changes at 7500 miles) at a retail cost of about $62.00 per change. As a dealer I get a discount (which I make available to all MM.net readers via the “preferred customer program”) which makes my cost $47.50. per change. So over 45000 miles I spend $142.50, use a total of 6 filters, and have a lot more of my own time for other things. Comparitvely, over the same 45,000 miles under David’s strategy you would have spent $216.00, gone through 18 filters, and spent a bunch of time (18 times) on your back under the car. That is a lot of oil changes in one year.

So for my application I spend a lot less time, quite a bit less money, put far less waste oil and filters back into the environment, and I am no longer lining the pocket of some middle eastern oil baron. It is a no brainer for me. What about wear and sludge? I have confirmed through my used oil analysis results that with a 15,000 mile change interval my engine exhibits no more (in a case or two less) wear than with Motorcraft 5W20 over a 4500 mile interval. Sludge? I honestly have never had the engine apart on this car but I did used to take the valve cover off my old BMW to adjust the valves and even after 225,000 miles it was clean as a whistle in there.

The point is, synthetic oil is designed to handle harsh conditions and is different technology than David and his automotive engineer buddies studied. I am an engineer too and I studied the heck out of this stuff, even with a skeptical eye that it was “snake oil”. But the more I learned and the more I tested (26,000 mile drain interval in my old BMW) the results proved this is different technology that works in my application. I don’t deny that there is a lot of dirt in the gas we use and that a lot of blow by gets in the oil. But, today’s synthetics are designed to take it. Having said that I stress, each application is different and may require a different strategy. Secondly, I’ll reiterate that I do not recommend long drain intervals for cars under warranty.

One more consideration for those of you who have stuck with this post. Do I believe synthetic oil protects better than dino oil over 2500 mile change intervals? I don’t think so. Over 5000 mile intervals? Maybe a little, particularly if there is some racing thrown in the driving characteristics. To David’s point, the everyday inexpensive over the counter oils that the auto companies use and design our cars around, are designed to minimum specifications to meet an SL rating. Keep in mind that the Motorcraft 5W20 that is recommended in Marauders is a synthetic blend that exceeds minimums SL standards. Perhaps because the Ford engineers know that Cobra and Marauder drivers are going to be stressing the oil harder than most geezer Grand Marquis drivers do. But even the dino 5W30s can handle 3000-5000 mile drains with no problem and to date I have not seen any evidence that suggests that synthetics protect appreciably better over such intervals. It is once those intervals are exceeded (or at extreme cold or hot temperatures) where synthetics prove their value.

Finally to stay on topic of the original post. A remote oil filter would work regardless of what type of oil and/or drain strategy is used. Sactown, to your specific question, personally I do not think you need either a cooler or a the dual bypass system. If you want to use the remote bypass system (Amsoil makes a simple remote filter kit as well without the bypass) to make oil changes simpler, the extra plumbing etc. will not affect your performance. In fact it could be argued that the extra quart or two oil required for this system is a plus. Have you talked to One bad MM yet?

Don

[03SILVERSTREAK]

I stole the following quote from another thread as I think it applies here.

"A wise friend of mine once said of computer operating systems: use what you like and ridicule everything else. I think that goes for cars, too."

I don't mean to ridicule as I will never argue that your 2500 change plan will keep the engine clean and the wear low. Also, for those of you who don’t drive very much in a year that is a decent strategy. However, as a counter to David’s $48 for 10000 miles, consider my application. I put 50,000 miles a year on my car so if I changed my oil every 2500 miles I'd be changing it every three weeks. I don't have time for that. I actually change my Amsoil every 15000 miles or so (with filter changes at 7500 miles) at a retail cost of about $62.00 per change. As a dealer I get a discount (which I make available to all MM.net readers via the “preferred customer program”) which makes my cost $47.50. per change. So over 45000 miles I spend $142.50, use a total of 6 filters, and have a lot more of my own time for other things. Comparitvely, over the same 45,000 miles under David’s strategy you would have spent $216.00, gone through 18 filters, and spent a bunch of time (18 times) on your back under the car. That is a lot of oil changes in one year.

So for my application I spend a lot less time, quite a bit less money, put far less waste oil and filters back into the environment, and I am no longer lining the pocket of some middle eastern oil baron. It is a no brainer for me. What about wear and sludge? I have confirmed through my used oil analysis results that with a 15,000 mile change interval my engine exhibits no more (in a case or two less) wear than with Motorcraft 5W20 over a 4500 mile interval. Sludge? I honestly have never had the engine apart on this car but I did used to take the valve cover off my old BMW to adjust the valves and even after 225,000 miles it was clean as a whistle in there.

The point is, synthetic oil is designed to handle harsh conditions and is different technology than David and his automotive engineer buddies studied. I am an engineer too and I studied the heck out of this stuff, even with a skeptical eye that it was “snake oil”. But the more I learned and the more I tested (26,000 mile drain interval in my old BMW) the results proved this is different technology that works in my application. I don’t deny that there is a lot of dirt in the gas we use and that a lot of blow by gets in the oil. But, today’s synthetics are designed to take it. Having said that I stress, each application is different and may require a different strategy. Secondly, I’ll reiterate that I do not recommend long drain intervals for cars under warranty.

One more consideration for those of you who have stuck with this post. Do I believe synthetic oil protects better than dino oil over 2500 mile change intervals? I don’t think so. Over 5000 mile intervals? Maybe a little, particularly if there is some racing thrown in the driving characteristics. To David’s point, the everyday inexpensive over the counter oils that the auto companies use and design our cars around, are designed to minimum specifications to meet an SL rating. Keep in mind that the Motorcraft 5W20 that is recommended in Marauders is a synthetic blend that exceeds minimums SL standards. Perhaps because the Ford engineers know that Cobra and Marauder drivers are going to be stressing the oil harder than most geezer Grand Marquis drivers do. But even the dino 5W30s can handle 3000-5000 mile drains with no problem and to date I have not seen any evidence that suggests that synthetics protect appreciably better over such intervals. It is once those intervals are exceeded (or at extreme cold or hot temperatures) where synthetics prove their value.

Finally to stay on topic of the original post. A remote oil filter would work regardless of what type of oil and/or drain strategy is used. Sactown, to your specific question, personally I do not think you need either a cooler or a the dual bypass system. If you want to use the remote bypass system (Amsoil makes a simple remote filter kit as well without the bypass) to make oil changes simpler, the extra plumbing etc. will not affect your performance. In fact it could be argued that the extra quart or two oil required for this system is a plus. Have you talked to One bad MM yet?

DonDon-I'd like to know a little more about the remote filter kit w/o the bypass or does the By-pass system proven itself better than our present system ???

[David Morton]

Don-I'd like to know a little more about the remote filter kit w/o the bypass or does the By-pass system proven itself better than our present system ???I'm OK, Dealer's OK, we're all OK. We love Marauders, Right!

Silver, I think maybe he's saying "bypass" in the sense of taking the oil away from the engine to filter, but you made me think about something else he is maybe referring to.

I don't know about this 32v engine cause I don't have a factory service manual yet but I remember most engines have an oil filter bypass valve located under the filter, that let's oil bypass it in case it gets clogged up and is causing the oil pressure to drop, or worse burst the filter. Racers have plugged this valve for years to insure no unfiltered oil ever gets to the bearings.

Is that what you're talking about Dealer?

[03SILVERSTREAK]

I'm OK, Dealer's OK, we're all OK. We love Marauders, Right!

Silver, I think maybe he's saying "bypass" in the sense of taking the oil away from the engine to filter, but you made me think about something else he is maybe referring to.

I don't know about this 32v engine cause I don't have a factory service manual yet but I remember most engines have an oil filter bypass valve located under the filter, that let's oil bypass it in case it gets clogged up and is causing the oil pressure to drop, or worse burst the filter. Racers have plugged this valve for years to insure no unfiltered oil ever gets to the bearings.

Is that what you're talking about Dealer?I thought he was refering to the dual filter setup using a standard filter and the amsoil extented filter[QUOTE=Finally to stay on topic of the original post. A remote oil filter would work regardless of what type of oil and/or drain strategy is used. Sactown, to your specific question, personally I do not think you need either a cooler or a the dual bypass system. If you want to use the remote bypass system (Amsoil makes a simple remote filter kit as well without the bypass) to make oil changes simpler, the extra plumbing etc. will not affect your performance. In fact it could be argued that the extra quart or two oil required for this system is a plus. Have you talked to One bad MM yet? Don[/QUOTE]

[Amsoil_Dealer]

I thought he was refering to the dual filter setup using a standard filter and the amsoil extented filter

Yes Silverstreak this is what I was referring to.......David, A bypass filter set up is a two filter deal. One normal full flow filter that handles 95% of the oil and all the high pressure oil and a bypass filter that is very dense and samples a small portion of the oil for ultra-fine filtaration (say 0-5 micron range vs 10-20 micron for normal filters). The bypass filter gets all of the oil in one hour of cruise mode driving. The theory is that eventually every drop of oil is filtered to this 1-5 micron level and that all water and fuel contamination gets filtered out thus creating near virgin clean oil for more than 20,000 miles. As I have said before, truckers have been using this technology for years. See the following link; http://www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html.
Also look at One Bad MM's installation by doing a search on bypass filters on this site. It is a very tidy installation and is pretty cool.

Quite frankly, I don't know if the bypass filter adds that much for our applications which is one of the reasons I have been curious about One Bad MM's oil analysis results vs. mine. I know how I beat my oil for 15,000 miles and if his results are better than mine we'll have some idea how it works in a daily driven Ford (mine is a 99 crown Vic HPP). If his results are that much better, I am going to install a dual bypass filter myself.

Silverstreak. does this answer your question? (I love your car by the way. That is what I want). One Bad, do you have any UOA results yet?

Don

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Yes Silverstreak this is what I was referring to.......David, A bypass filter set up is a two filter deal. One normal full flow filter that handles 95% of the oil and all the high pressure oil and a bypass filter that is very dense and samples a small portion of the oil for ultra-fine filtaration (say 0-5 micron range vs 10-20 micron for normal filters). The bypass filter gets all of the oil in one hour of cruise mode driving. The theory is that eventually every drop of oil is filtered to this 1-5 micron level and that all water and fuel contamination gets filtered out thus creating near virgin clean oil for more than 20,000 miles. As I have said before, truckers have been using this technology for years. See the following link; http://www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html.
Also look at One Bad MM's installation by doing a search on bypass filters on this site. It is a very tidy installation and is pretty cool.

Quite frankly, I don't know if the bypass filter adds that much for our applications which is one of the reasons I have been curious about One Bad MM's oil analysis results vs. mine. I know how I beat my oil for 15,000 miles and if his results are better than mine we'll have some idea how it works in a daily driven Ford (mine is a 99 crown Vic HPP). If his results are that much better, I am going to install a dual bypass filter myself.

Silverstreak. does this answer your question? (I love your car by the way. That is what I want). One Bad, do you have any UOA results yet?

DonThanks Don-Im going to look at this process and then Order the kit since it seems to make sense... :up:

[1 BAD 03 MM]

Amsoil_Dealer, Haven't had the oil analysed yet. I had the driver side cylinder head changed, and they changed the oil with (Motorcraft 5W20) then at 15,500 mi. I drained that after 500 mi and put ASL 5W30 in at 16,000. I'm sitting at 18,500 right now, so I'm going to give it until 20,000, and then do the analysis. With the kit I have 8.5 Qts of oil in the system.

Side note: When the dealer replaced the head, he told me they were skeptical about the dual remote system causing low oil pressure. Well they tested the oil pressure at both cylinder heads and all checked out good. This was the prerequisite for them fixing the head. Once they verified all was good they called the Ford hotline, and the rest is history.

David, Regardless of the regimine, we are all on the same page of taking care of our machinery. There was no flame intended. I agree with the coolant change once a year, and I actually change trans. fluid every 15,000.

I'm not an EnviroNazi or anything, and I know what you mean, it's amazing that just about everything we wear, drive, bag groceries in, wash with, etc, is made from petroleum products.

[David Morton]

David, Regardless of the regimine, we are all on the same page of taking care of our machinery. There was no flame intended. I agree with the coolant change once a year, and I actually change trans. fluid every 15,000.

I'm not an EnviroNazi or anything, and I know what you mean, it's amazing that just about everything we wear, drive, bag groceries in, wash with, etc, is made from petroleum products. You da man. I didn't take anything hard. Matter of fact, I think I'm still learning (I know I better be, because when I think I know it all, I'm in trouble) and I do believe this bypass filter Amsoil is selling is a great idea for those applications that will be going a long time between changes. I'm just wondering what is done about the detergent situation. Perhaps the newest synthetics are naturally detergent and it's not a matter of detergents wearing out, the oils themselves are detergent. The diesel boys have not had this problem because diesel fuel is a solvent, the problem they've had to contend with is loss of viscosity. They have the "lube-refiner" for that. Ours is gasoline. Varnish-like deposits are the real enemy.

Anybody know? Are synthetic oils themselves detergent? Or are they using detergent additives?

I used to say every 15,000 on ATF back when we dropped the pan and could only change 50-60% of the oil. Then some wise guy thought of diverting the oil as it came out of the convertor and returning fresh lube to the pan, filters nowadays never need changing, so we can effectively change 90+% of the ATF now and never crack open the pan. So I say every 25,000 if you take that route. BTW, if your dropping the pan, don't bother with the filter. Assembly line filter is all you'll ever need unless you do some repairs. Whatever you do don't scratch the seal surface where the filter enters the pump assy. as you could get a jittery pump from air bubbles sucking past it. You might weld a drain bolt onto the bottom of the pan while you have it off and then you're set for the life of the tranny.

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Amsoil_Dealer, Haven't had the oil analysed yet. I had the driver side cylinder head changed, and they changed the oil with (Motorcraft 5W20) then at 15,500 mi. I drained that after 500 mi and put ASL 5W30 in at 16,000. I'm sitting at 18,500 right now, so I'm going to give it until 20,000, and then do the analysis. With the kit I have 8.5 Qts of oil in the system.. Just wondering how,s the oil system working out ?