Unidentified leak - front block

[Svashtar]

So 6-8 weeks ago I beat the crap out of a stuck WP. Stupidly, more than I had to, to get it out of the block. I installed the new one, and checked for leaks, the new one slid in very tight, and I didn’t see any drips.

For the last week the car has been sitting front end at a slight down angle on my driveway. I see what looks like coolant on the ground, but looking behind the WP pulley I can’t see anything coming from around the WP. I do see a streak of what looks like oil coming down slightly to the side of the WP, like from a nearby timing cover bolt? And flowing down to the crank pulley, then heading to the lip below it then to the ground. I estimate the total amount of fluid to only be a tablespoon or less, but a little goes a long way.

Sticking my hand into it and it’s black and very oily.

I’ll have to get into it in the morning. I just hope my being an idiot getting the WP out didn’t **** something up, but given my luck lately I’m not betting on it.

At the time I checked the mating surface of the block where the WP slides in and it seemed smooth and undamaged, but obviously something’s leaking, although slowly.

I’ll see if I can find the source of the leak tomorrow and if not will post a pic...

BTW, just occurred to me, I’m thinking it could also be something from the top of the engine creeping down? Maybe I spilled something up there when I was degreasing the block, and the down angle for a week has allowed it to slowly seep down. I usually park facing up the driveway, and haven’t seen any drips until now.

It would be nice if it was that simple. We’ll see.


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[justbob]

Get a mirror and check the weep hole on the bottom of the pump.


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[Svashtar]

Thanks, didn’t know there was a weep hole....

I can’t see anything. Actually would be easier to see in the dark with a light than in bright sun.

But the underside is dripping coolant, not oil. The oily black is from the dirt.

So, it’s a very slow leak, and seems to do it only when the car is facing downhill. New pump, new gasket. Only thing I can think of is to pull it, then use sealant around it? I didn’t use anything last time. I also have an extra new gasket if needed, but that’s not the problem.

Don’t know what is actually.

Thanks.


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[Svashtar]

FYI, from the coolant level, I’d estimate it’s lost maybe 1 cup of coolant in the last couple of months. Not running hot at all, so there’s no air in the system.


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[Svashtar]

Anyone recall the torgue specs for the WP, thought there was a sticky but I can’t find it. Just did them, but of course knew I’d never have to do them again. Getting senile. Thought I would just tighten everything again before pulling the pump.


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[Mr. Man]

Read somewhere it is 18 ftlbs. Pump to block. Can anyone confirm?

[Svashtar]

Thanks, I know there’s a list somewhere. 22 ft lbs sticks in my head, but that might be the timing chain cover bolts.

I swear every other thing I touch on this car I **** up.

LOL! Now my out of warranty air ratchet just died. [emoji849]. One of those days...!


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[justbob]

Like any O ring, you should use a dab of silicone grease to help it ease into its resting spot and not tear it.

Specs are alternating CST.


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[mm svt]

When looking for a leak start up top, the o-ring needs some lube and scotch brite the opening,

[Svashtar]

Like any O ring, you should use a dab of silicone grease to help it ease into its resting spot and not tear it.

Specs are alternating CST.


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Thanks; So, from what you’re saying, a leak basically points to a damaged o-ring?

When I installed it I didn’t have any silicone grease, but lubed it with some silicone spray lube, and it eased right in. It was very tight, and I had to tighten the bolts to suck it into place, but it seemed fine.

I was more concerned that I had actually damaged the receiving area of the block getting the old pump out, as I was hitting down on the old pulley trying to get some movement, but again it all seemed smooth to the touch.

As soon as the car went down the drive 5 feet and the front end lifted slightly, the leaking stopped.

I’ll tighten the bolts a bit. I did the alternating, but don’t know what CST is; I had specs, but just will make sure they’re tight today plus a bit.




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[Svashtar]

When looking for a leak start up top, the o-ring needs some lube and scotch brite the opening,


Really, the top? Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I’d it leaks on an incline, that leads me to think I have either block damage or o-ring damage towards the bottom or lower sides, but what do I know.

I have the pulley off and will tighten everything up. If it still leaks on an incline (unacceptable to me), I’ll pull the pump, clean the housing like you suggest, and replace the o-ring, with silicone grease this time.

Thanks to you both for your input.


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[Svashtar]

Everything off, and been watching it for a few hours; the base of the pump is dry as a bone. Go figure.


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[justbob]

As long as you used something, anything and didn't dry dock it like a teenager then I'm sure it's fine. They never come out or go in easily and I don't care how much you hammered on it (which technically is a step of removal) you certainly did NOT hurt the block.

CST - Common Sense Tight

Reason I mentioned to check the weep hole is because I've seen more than a few leak brand new. Worst case pressure test the system.


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[Svashtar]

Ah, ok, makes sense thanks. I see a tiny bit of dried residue there, but nothing wet.

When full of coolant cold I was right in the middle of the cold fill range, and now after a couple of months I’m at the first line of that range.

If it’s the pump as you say is a possibility then I’ll just eat it and get another OEM pump, rather than dumping all the coolant just to try a new o-ring.

Thanks for the input.


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[Svashtar]

Took it out of the freeway and jumped on it this morning, drove it hard for 5 miles (way too fast [emoji847]!), then took a mirror and checked at the bottom of the pump, no drips. BTSOM.

Only thing I can think of, yesterday the bottom WP bolt took another 1/4 turn easily, the others were tight. You wouldn’t think that amount would make a difference, but maybe? I’m going to check it every day for a couple of weeks and see if any drips come back.

Thanks for the help yesterday.

BTW, also got my old Quickor 1” rolled steel RSB off and cleaned up yesterday. It had some rust spots, so I buffed it out then hit it with primer and black paint, then radiused the insides of the sharp drilled holes on the ends with a die grinder to bevel them and give more bearing surface to the new poly end link bushings.

I lubed the old Addco 7/8” bushings which amazingly still look new after 12 years, and installed new white poly end links from Energy Suspension, plus their lateral locks (got the idea from Bob who posted pics of his with those, or something similar.)

I never realized with the lubed main bushings on the old setup how close the left side of the RSB came to the thicker TA Performance differential cover when under load and shifting laterally. These center the bar on the car and make sure nothing gets hit.

Nice difference in handling now. Once I get an upgraded watts link back there, it should be perfect. Another couple of months...!


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